DROPS Baby / 14 / 5

Little Miss Berry Cardigan by DROPS Design

Crochet jacket with round yoke and lace collar, summer hat and slippers in DROPS Alpaca. Sizes for baby and children, 1 month to 4 years.

Size: 1/3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 – 3/4 years)
Size in cm: 50/56 – 62/68 – 74/80 (86/92 – 98/104)

Materials: DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
Cardigan:
150-200-200 (250-250) g colour 3720, old rose + a remainder of 7300 lime and 3140 light rose (for the flower)
Hat:
50-50 (100) g colour no. 3720 old rose + a remainder of 7300 lime and 3140 light rose (for the flower)
Shoes:
50-50-50 (50-50) g colour no. 3720 old rose + a remainder of 7300 lime and 3140 light rose (for flowers and edge.

DROPS crochet hook no. 3 mm
DROPS light wooden button no. 503: 5 pcs. for the cardigan and 2 pcs for the shoes.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Alpaca
from 3.20 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.30 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Crochet tension: 24 sts x 13 rows in Alpaca on hook no. 3 = 10 x 10 cm

Binding off tips-1:
Bind off 1 tr as follows: Crochet 2 tr tog. This means crochet 1 tr but wait with the last yrh and pull through (= 2 sts on hook), crochet 1 tr in the next tr and pull the last yrh through all 3 sts on hook.

Binding off tips-2:
Bind off as follows at beginning of row: Replace 1 dc/tr with a sl st.
Bind off as follows at the end of row: Turn the piece when number of dc/tr left on row = number of st to bind off and crochet back.

Crochet info: At the beginning of each row with tr replace 1st tr with 3 ch and at the end of row crochet the last tr in the 3rd ch from beginning of previous row. Crochet in to each tr (not in between).

Crochet tips: When crocheting more dtr tog. do as follows: Crochet 1 dtr but wait with the last yrh and pull through (= 2 sts on hook), crochet the next dtr but wait with the last yrh and pull through (= 3 sts on hook) , continue this way until crochet the no. of dtr which need to be crochet tog. and pull the last yrh through all sts on hook.

CARDIGAN
Back piece: Read Crochet info! Crochet 110-120-129 (138-148) ch loosely (inclusive of 3 ch to turn with) on hook no. 3 and old rose Alpaca.
Crochet first row as follows: 1 tr in the 4th ch from hook, *skip 1 ch, 1 tr in the next 3 ch* , repeat from *-* until end of row but in size 1/3 month and 2 years finish with a tr in each of the last 5 ch (instead of the last 3 ch) in Size 12/18 month finish with a tr in each of the last 4 = 82-89-96 (103-110) tr, turn the piece.
Continue to crochet 1 tr in each tr at the same time bind off 1 tr each side a total of 12 times for Size 1/3 month + 6/9 month: Alternate between every and every other row, Size 12/18 month + 2 years: On every other row and Size 3 /4 years: Alternate between every 2nd and 3rd row – see bind off tips-1 = 58-65-72 (79-86) tr. When the piece measures approx. 17-18-21 (24-26) cm bind off for armhole each side – see bind off tips-2: 5-5-6 (6-7) tr = 48-55-60 (67-72) tr. Put the piece aside.

Left front piece: Crochet 61-66-70 (76-80) ch loosely (inclusive of 3 ch to turn with) on hook no. 3 and old rose Alpaca.
Crochet first row as follows: 1 tr in the 4th ch from hook, *skip 1 ch, 1 tr in the next 3 ch* , repeat from *-* until end of row but in size 1/3 month finish with a tr in each of the last 4 ch (instead of the last 3 ch) in Size 6/9 month + 12/18 month finish with a tr in each of the last 5 = 45-49-52 (56-59) tr, turn the piece.
Continue to crochet 1 tr in each tr at the same time bind off 1 tr at the side as done for the back = 33-37-40 (44-47) tr. When the piece measures approx. 17-18-21 (24-26) cm –adjust to the length of the back piece -bind off for armhole as done for the back piece = 28-32-34(38-40) tr. Put the piece aside.
Right front piece: Crochet as left front piece but opposite. In addition bind off for buttonhole on the right front edge. 1 buttonhole = crochet the 2 most outer tr as before, 1 ch, skip a tr, and continue to crochet as before with a tr in each tr. On the next row crochet 1 tr in the ch.
Bind off for button hole when the piece measures:
Size 1/3 months: 5, 11, 16, 22 and 27 cm
Size 6/9 months: 6, 12, 18, 24 and 29 cm
Size 12/18 months: 7, 13, 20, 26 and 33 cm
Size 2 years: 9, 16, 23, 30 and 37 cm
Size 3/4 years: 10, 17, 25, 32 and 40 cm

Sleeve: Crochet 46-49-50 (52-53) ch loosely (inclusive of 3 ch to turn with) on hook no. 3 and old rose Alpaca.
Crochet first row as follows: 1 tr in the 4th ch from hook, *skip 1 ch, 1 tr in the next 3 ch* , repeat from *-* until end of row but in size 1/3 month and 12/18 month finish with a tr in each of the last 5 ch (instead of the last 3 ch) in Size 6/9 month + 3 /4 year finish with a tr in each of the last 4 ch = 34-36-37 (38-39) tr, turn the piece. Continue to crochet 1 tr in each tr When the piece measures 4 cm insert a marking thread (= folding edge) - measure here from now on! When the piece measures 4 cm inc. at each side as follows: crochet 1 extra tr in the last but one tr each side on every 1.5 cm ( = approx every other row) a total of 6-7-9 (11-13) times = 46-50-55 (60-65) tr. When the piece measures approx. 15-16-18 (23-27) cm from the marking thread bind off 5-5-6 (6-7) tr each side – read bind off tips-2 = 36-40-43 (48-51) tr. Put the sleeve aside and crochet another one.

Crochet the pieces together: Crochet the pieces together from the right side as follows: Crochet 1 tr in each tr at the right front piece, crochet 1 tr in each tr at the right sleeve, 1 tr for each tr at the back piece, 1 tr in each tr at the left sleeve, and 1 tr in each tr at the left front piece = 176-199-214 (239-254) tr. Crochet 2 rows with a tr in each tr. Continue with tr at the same time bind off 10-10-10 (11-11) tr evenly distributed on the next 10-12-13 (14-15) rows (do not bind off in the outermost 4 tr each side) se bind off tips-1. After the last bind off, crochet 1 row of tr at the same time bind off 16-17-20 (19-21) tr evenly distributed (not on the outermost 4 tr each side) = 60-62-64 (66-68) tr
Assembly: Sew the sleeve seam edge against edge with small neat stitches. Sew the side seams the same way and the opening underneath the sleeves.

Collar: Crochet with hook no. 3 and old rose Alpaca as follows –start and finish in the 3 tr from mid front:
1st row: Crochet a dc in each tr from previous row = 56-58-60 (62-64) dc, turn the piece
2nd row: Crochet 7 ch ( = 1 dtr + 3 ch),* skip approx 2 – 2.5 cm, and crochet 3 dtr tog. in the next dc – read the crochet tips above, crochet 3 ch and 3 dtr tog. in the same dc*, repeat from *-* around the neck and finish with 3 ch and 1 dtr in the last dc, turn the piece.
3rd row: Crochet 7 ch,*crochet 4 dtr tog. in the dc loop in the dtr group, 4 ch 4 dtr tog. and 4 ch*, repeat from *-* around the neck and finish with 1 dtr in the 4th ch from beginning of previous row, turn the piece.

Finishing edge: Crochet 1 row of ch loops along the opening of the cardigan on hook no. 3 and old rose Alpaca as follows: 1 dc in the first st, *6 ch, skip 0.5 – 1 cm, 1 dc in the next ch* repeat from *-* and finish with 6 ch and 1 sl st in the first dc from beginning of round –NB: Around the collar crochet ch loops so there will be 1 dc at the top of each dtr group with 6 ch in between.
Crochet edge around the sleeves: crochet 1st and 2nd round as explained above under the collar and then a finishing edge as for the cardigan.

Crochet flower: Crochet 3 ch with hook no. 3 and light rose and make a loop with a sl st.
1st round: Crochet 5 dc around the loop and finish with a sl st in the dc from beginning of round.
2nd round: *4 ch, 1 tr in the 1st of the 4 ch, 1 dc in the next st*, repeat from *-* = 5 leaves, cut the thread.
Crochet 3 ch with hook size 3 and lime and make a loop with a sl st.
1st round: Crochet 5 dc around the loop and finish with a sl st in the dc from beginning of round.
2nd round: *4 ch, 3 tr in the 1st of the 4 ch, 1 dc in the next st*, repeat from *-* = 5 leaves, cut the thread.
Sew the light rose flower on to the lime flower. Make another flower and sew them on to the right front piece. Sew in the buttons.



HAT:
Size: 1/3 -6/18 month (2/4) years
To fit head circumference: approx 40/42 –44/46 (48/50) cm

Crochet info: On the beginning of each round with tr, replace the 1. tr with 3 ch and finish the round with a sl st in the 3rd ch from beginning of round. Crochet in each tr (not in between)

Hat: Crochet 4 ch with hook no. 3 and old rose and make a loop with a sl st.
1st round: Crochet 12 tr around the loop –read Crochet info!
2nd round: Crochet 2 tr in each tr = 24 tr
3rd round: Crochet 1 tr in each tr = 24 tr
4th round: *1 tr in each of the 2 first tr, 2 tr in the next tr*, repeat from *-* until end of round = 32 tr.
5th round: *1 tr in each of the 3 first tr, 2 tr in the next tr*, repeat from *-* until end of round = 40 tr.
6th round: *1 tr in each of the 4 first tr, 2 tr in the next tr*, repeat from *-* until end of round = 48 tr.
7th round: *1 tr in each of the 5 first tr, 2 tr in the next tr*, repeat from *-* until end of round = 56 tr.
8th round: *1 tr in each of the 6 first tr, 2 tr in the next tr*, repeat from *-* until end of round = 64 tr.
9th round: *1 tr in each of the 7 first tr, 2 tr in the next tr*, repeat from *-* until end of round = 72 tr.
10th round: *1 tr in each of the 8 first tr, 2 tr in the next tr*, repeat from *-* until end of round = 80 tr.
Finish the increases here for size 1/3 month
11th round: *1 tr in each of the 9 first tr, 2 tr in the next tr*, repeat from *-* until end of round = 88 tr.
Finish the increases here for size 6/18 months
12th round: *1 tr in each of the 10 first tr, 2 tr in the next tr*, repeat from *-* until end of round = 96 tr.
All sizes: Continue round with tr without any increases until the piece measures 13-14 (16) cm from the top. Crochet 1 round as follows: 2 tr in every 8th tr = 90-99 (108) tr on round. Crochet 1 round of tr without any increases and continue to crochet 1 round with 2 tr in every 6th tr ( for the middle size 3 tr left on round after the last increase instead of 6) = 105-115 (126) tr on round.

Lace border:
1st round: Crochet 4 ch (= 1 dtr), crochet 2 dtr tog. – see crochet tips under dress, 3 ch and 3 dtr tog in the first tr, *skip approx. 2 – 2.5 cm, crochet 3 dtr tog. in the next tr, 3 ch and 3 dtr tog.*, repeat from *-* until end of round and finish with a sl st in the 4th ch crochet at beginning of round.
2nd round: Crochet 1 dc in the top of the first dtr group, *6 ch, 1 dc in the next dtr group*, repeat from *-* until end of round and finish with 6 ch and 1 sl st in the 1st dc from beginning of round. Cut and sew the thread, the hat measures approx. 18-19 (21) cm from the top.

Crochet flower: Crochet 2 flowers as explained under the cardigan and sew the flowers to the hat.



SHOES:
Size: 1/3 -6/9 – 12/18 month (2 -3/4) years
To fit foot length: 10-11-12 (14-15) cm

Crochet info: At the beginning of each row with dc, replace the 1st dc with 1 ch and finish the row with a dc in the ch from beginning of previous row. At the beginning of each round with tr, replace the 1st tr with 3 ch and finish the row with a tr in the 3rd ch from beginning of previous row. Crochet in each dc/ tr (not in between)

Binding off tips:
Bind off as follows at beginning of row: Replace 1 dc/tr with a sl st.
Bind off as follows at the end of row: Turn the piece when number of dc/tr left on row = number of st to bind off and crochet back.

Left shoe: Read Crochet info and start with the sole. Crochet 15-18-20 (25-27) ch (inclusive of 1 ch to turn with) on hook no. 3 and old rose Alpaca.
Crochet first row as follows: 1 dc in the 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc in the following 13-16-18 (23-25) ch = 15-18-20 (25-27) dc, turn the piece. Continue to crochet 1 dc in each dc from previous row at the same time inc 2 dc at the beginning and end of the first row as follows: crochet 3 dc in the first and last dc on row = 19-22-24 (29-31) dc. Crochet forth and back until 1 row left before the piece measures 3-4-4 (5-5) cm. Bind off 2 dc each side – read bind off tips = 15-18-20 (25-27) dc on row. The piece measures approx. 3-4-4 (5-5) cm. Cut and sew the thread. Insert a marking thread in each corner = 4 marking threads. Continue to crochet tr around the sole as follows:
1st row: Begin mid back (= mid one of the short sides)- crochet 1 dc in the first st, 3 ch (= 1tr), 1 tr in each of the following 2-3-3 (4-4) tr, 2 tr in the corner, 15-18-20 (25-27) tr along the side, 2 tr in the corner, 5-7-7 (9-9) tr along the other short side (= the toes), 2 tr in the corner, 15-18-20 (25-27) tr along the side, 2 tr in the corner and 2-3-3 (4-4) tr, finish with a sl st in the 3rd ch from beginning of round = 48-58-62 (76-80) tr.
2nd row: As first row –but crochet 2 tr tog at each corner by the toes = 46-56-60 (74-78) tr
3rd row and 4th row: Crochet 2 rows with tr without any bind offs. The piece now measures approx. 2 cm in the height.

Ankle band: Crochet 2 rows of tr over the centre 5-5-5 (7-7) tr mid back for ankle band, continue to crochet 33-34-35 (36-37) ch at the end of the last row, turn the piece. Crochet 1 tr in the 4th ch from the hook, 1 tr in the next ch and 1 ch, skip a ch (= button hole), now crochet 1 tr in each of the remaining ch and 1 tr in each of the 5-5-5 (7-7) last tr. Cut and sew the thread.

The top part: Crochet 1 tr in each of the 7-9-9 (11-11) tr at mid front of the shoe. Crochet forth and back until the top part measures 4-4-5 (5-6) cm. Cut and sew the thread. Sew the top part to the shoe each side with small neat stitches. Change to light rose and crochet lobster sts along the whole of the opening of the shoe and along the ankle band (lobster st = crochet dcs from the left towards the right).

Centre strap: Crochet 5 dc over the middle sts at the front of the shoe with light rose Alpaca (crochet the 1st row from t he wrong side in lobster sts). Crochet forth and back until the strap measures 6 cm. Bend the strap in the middle and towards the wrong side and sew the strap at the inside of the shoe. Sew on a button at the centre back of the shoe approx. 0.5 cm from the edge.

Crochet flower: Crochet 1 flower as explained under the cardigan and sew the flower to the top of the shoe.

Right shoe: Crochet as left but opposite.


DRESS: see pattern no 14-04
Bag: see pattern no 14-04

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 22.10.2014
At the end under Sleeve (bind off 5-5-6 (6-7) tr, not only 5 tr):
.... When the piece measures approx. 15-16-18 (23-27) cm from the marking thread bind off 5-5-6 (6-7) tr each side – read bind off tips-2 = 36-40-43 (48-51) tr. Put the sleeve aside and crochet another one.

Diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 14-5) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
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Comments / Questions (164)

Ulrika Lundin 22.03.2020 - 16:20:

Beskrivning på höger framstycke är att man ska virka lika som vänster- fast tvärtom. Till ålder 1 år skall man virka vä framstycke till 21 cm uppnås. Men på hö framstycke ska man ju göra knapphål vid 26 och 33 cm också? Förstår inte? Tacksam för förklaring!

DROPS Design 23.03.2020 kl. 16:07:

Hei Ulrika. De 2 siste knapphullene hekles når forstykkene, bakstykket og ermene hekles sammen og har kommet til den lengden som er oppgitt (26 og 33 cm), og da hekles de som tidligere. God Fornøyelse!

Jannice King 05.11.2019 - 09:01:

Thank you. One more question. When you begin to work the Collar with a row of dc. Do you start on the right side or wrong side of the work.?Beautiful pattern!

DROPS Design 05.11.2019 kl. 09:17:

Dear Mrs King, you can either start on RS (then the last row will be worked from RS), or from WS (then the 2nd row will be worked from RS), as you prefer. Happy crocheting!

Jannice King 04.11.2019 - 18:51:

Finishing Edge hook no. 3 and old rose Alpaca as follows: 1 dc in the first st, *6 ch, skip 0.5 – 1 cm, 1 dc in the next ch* repeat from *-* and finish with 6 ch and 1 sl st in the first dc from beginning of round –NB: Around the collar crochet ch loops so there will be 1 dc at the top of each dtr group with 6 ch in between. However on the photo it shows a shell pattern along the front opening and edges. Am I missing something ?

DROPS Design 05.11.2019 kl. 08:46:

Dear Mrs King, this is the finished crocheted edge worked around whole opening of jacket, ie chain-spaces, adjust the width/height of ch-spaces skipping more or less cm (= 0,5 to 1 cm). Happy crocheting!

Allyson Thickett 10.08.2019 - 15:31:

Hello, thank you for the lovely pattern. Is it right that on the back you have to decrease at each end of every other row to 72 sts (12-18mths). This is causing the front to slant rather than be straight. Should I be decreasing where the side seams would be so that it slants at the sides rather than the front. Please advise

DROPS Design 12.08.2019 kl. 07:30:

Dear Mrs Thickett, on back piece you decrease 1 st on each side on every other row, you should decrease the same number of stitch on each side to get the correct slanting. Happy crocheting!

Birgit Rittsteiger 31.07.2019 - 09:44:

Hallo, ich häkle gerade die Jacke, bin jetzt beim Rückenteil mit den Abnahmen fertig, habe 65 Maschen...meine Frage jetzt zu den Armausschnitten>: muss ich beiderseits alle 5 Maschen aufeinmal abnehmen, so dass ich nur eine Reihe habe? oder muss ich die Abnahmen auf mehrere Reihen aufteilen? LG Birgit

DROPS Design 31.07.2019 kl. 16:59:

Liebe Frau Rittsteiger, ja, Sie müssen die je 5 Maschen auf einmal abnehmen, wie in den Abnahmetipps beschrieben. Sie haben also eine einzige Abnahmereihe, in der Sie beidseitig 5 Maschen abnehmen. Viel Spaß beim Weiterhäkeln!

Birgit Rittsteiger 30.07.2019 - 19:18:

Hallo, ich häkle gerade die Jacke, bin jetzt beim Rückenteil mit den Abnahmen fertig, habe 65 Maschen...meine Frage jetzt zu den Armausschnitten>: muss ich beiderseits alle 5 Maschen aufeinmal abnehmen, so dass ich nur eine Reihe habe? oder muss ich die Abnahmen auf mehrere Reihen aufteilen? LG Birgit

Vesoul Martine 26.06.2019 - 03:38:

Je cherche La Robe an vidéo Gratuits

DROPS Design 26.06.2019 kl. 06:45:

Bonjour Mme Vesoul, vous trouverez ici les explications diu modèle de la robe assortie. Bon crochet!

Ghislaine Bredy 29.04.2019 - 10:35:

Merci de votre réponse, c'est ce à quoi je pensais. dans ces conditions la phrase ' diminuer alternativement tout les rangs' n 'est pas nécessaires, juste la phrase 'diminuer tout les 2 rangs' cela aurait suffit. merci encore, je ais me remettre à l'ouvrage.

DROPS Design 29.04.2019 kl. 11:04:

Bonjour Mme Bredy, pas exactement, si on diminue tous les 2 rangs seulement, on n'aura pas le même résultat du tout (tous les 2 rangs = 1 rang de diminution, 1 rang sans diminuer) soit 1 diminution tous les 2 rangs alors que dans ce modèle, les diminutions se font sur 3 rangs (=1 rang de diminutions, 1 rang sans diminuer, 1 rang de diminutions) et on répète de (à), on aura donc 2 rangs de diminutions à suivre la fois suivante. Bon crochet!

Ghislaine Bredy 27.04.2019 - 22:13:

Bonjour, je ne saisi pas ce que vous voulez dire en ce qui concerne les diminutions au crochet je cite ' alternativement tous les rang et tous les 2 rangs ' pouvez-vous. merci de votre attention en attente de votre réponse

DROPS Design 29.04.2019 kl. 09:51:

Bonjour Mme Bredy, diminuez alternativement tous les rangs et tous les 2 rangs ainsi: crochetez *1 rang avec diminutions, 1 rang sans diminuer, 1 rang avec diminutions*, répétez de *-* 6 fois au total (= on a diminué 12 fois au total). Bon crochet!

Sib 15.12.2018 - 11:08:

I would like to do this in a washable yarn. What would you suggest?

DROPS Design 15.12.2018 kl. 18:28:

Dear Sib, you can use Baby Merino or Fabel, but remeber to check your gauge first! Happy crafting!

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