DROPS Baby / 14 / 8

Little Miss Berry Shoes by DROPS Design

Crochet flower slippers in DROPS Alpaca for baby and children. Size 1 month to 4 years.

Tags: floral, slippers,

Size: 1/3 -6/9 – 12/18 month (2 -3/4) years
To fit foot length: 10-11-12 (14-15) cm

Materials: Alpaca
Shoes:
50-50-50 (50-50) g colour no. 3720 old rose + a remainder of 7300 lime and 3140 light rose (for flowers and edge)

DROPS crochet hook no. 3
DROPS light wooden button no. 503: 2 pcs.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Alpaca
from 3.20 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.30 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 32.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Crochet info: At the beginning of each row with dc, replace the 1st dc with 1 ch and finish the row with a dc in the ch from beginning of previous row. At the beginning of each round with tr, replace the 1st tr with 3 ch and finish the row with a tr in the 3. ch from beginning of previous row. Crochet in each dc/ tr (not in between)

Binding off tips:
Bind off as follows at beginning of row: Replace 1 dc/tr with a sl st.
Bind off as follows at the end of row: Turn the piece when number of dc/tr left on row = number of st to bind off and crochet back.

Left shoe: Read Crochet info and start with the sole. Crochet 15-18-20 (25-27) ch (inclusive of 1 ch to turn with) on hook no. 3 and old rose Alpaca.
Crochet first row as follows: 1 dc in the 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc in the following 13-16-18 (23-25) ch = 15-18-20 (25-27) dc, turn the piece. Continue to crochet 1 dc in each dc from previous row at the same time inc 2 dc at the beginning and end of the first row as follows: crochet 3 dc in the first and last dc on row = 19-22-24 (29-31) dc. Crochet forth and back until 1 row left before the piece measures 3-4-4 (5-5) cm. Bind off 2 dc each side – read bind off tips = 15-18-20 (25-27) dc on row. The piece measures approx. 3-4-4 (5-5) cm. Cut and sew the thread. Insert a marking thread in each corner = 4 marking threads. Continue to crochet tr around the sole as follows:
1st row: Begin mid back (= mid one of the short sides)- crochet 1 dc in the first st, 3 ch (= 1tr), 1 tr in each of the following 2-3-3 (4-4) tr, 2 tr in the corner, 15-18-20 (25-27) tr along the side, 2 tr in the corner, 5-7-7 (9-9) tr along the other short side (= the toes), 2 tr in the corner, 15-18-20 (25-27) tr along the side, 2 tr in the corner and 2-3-3 (4-4) tr, finish with a sl ti in the 3rd ch from beginning of round = 48-58-62 (76-80) tr.
2nd row: As first row –but crochet 2 tr tog at each corner by the toes = 46-56-60 (74-78) tr
3rd row and 4th row: Crochet 2 rows with tr without any bind offs. The piece now measures approx. 2 cm in the height.

Ankle band: Crochet 2 rows of tr over the centre 5-5-5 (7-7) tr mid back for ankle band, continue to crochet 33-34-35 (36-37) ch at the end of the last row, turn the piece. Crochet 1 tr in the 4th ch from the hook, 1 tr in the next tr and 1 ch, skip a tr (= button hole), now crochet 1 tr in each of the remaining ch and 1 tr in each of the 5-5-5 (7-7) last tr. Cut and sew the thread.
The top part: Crochet 1 tr in each of the 7-9-9 (11-11) tr at mid front of the shoe. Crochet forth and back until the top part measures 4-4-5 (5-6) cm. Cut and sew the thread. Sew the top part to the shoe each side with small neat stitches. Change to light rose and crochet lobster sts along the whole of the opening of the shoe and along the ankle band (lobster st = crochet dcs from the left towards the right).

Centre strap: Crochet 5 dc over the middle sts at the front of the shoe with light rose Alpaca (crochet the 1st row from t he wrong side in lobster sts). Crochet forth and back until the strap measures 6 cm. Bend the strap in the middle and towards the wrong side and sew the strap at the inside of the shoe. Sew on a button at the centre back of the shoe approx. 0.5 cm from the edge.

Crochet flower: Crochet 3 ch with hook no. 3 and light rose and make a loop with a sl st.
1st round: Crochet 5 dc around the loop and finish with a sl st in the dc from beginning of round.
2nd round: *4 ch, 1 tr in the 1st of the 4 ch, 1 dc in the next st*, repeat from *-* = 5 leaves, cut the thread.
Crochet 3 ch with hook size 3 and lime and make a loop with a sl st.
1st round: Crochet 5 dc around the loop and finish with a sl st in the dc from beginning of round.
2nd round: *4 ch, 3 tr in the 1st of the 4 ch, 1 dc in the next st*, repeat from *-* = 5 leaves, cut the thread.
Sew the light rose flower on to the lime flower and sew it to the top of the shoe

Right shoe: Crochet as left but opposite.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 14-8) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (8)

Elisabteth Vallin 06.03.2018 - 14:35:

Hej! Jag virkar babyskor ur mönster 14-8. Jag har virkat fram till nu börjar sulan. Får inget begrepp om hur det ska bli rätt.Jag började på hälften av den kortaste del av "trekanten", fortsatte på långkanten,men sen tog det stopp. Menas det att jag ska ta av garnet å börja mitt bak igen. Har nog fattat allt fel. Finns det nån vänlig själ som kan mönster eller ändå hjälpa mig?????? Jätte tacksam om någon svarar. Hälsningar Elisabeth

DROPS Design 22.03.2018 kl. 14:26:

Hej, du ska börja mitt på den ena kortsidan, virka stolpar längs denna, sedan virkas det 2 stolpar i hörnet, fortsätt längs långsidan med stolpar, virka 2 stolpar i följande hörn, virka stolpar längs den andra kortsidan och 2 stolpar i följande hörn, sedan virkar du stolpar längs den andra långsidan, 2 stolpar i hörnet och stolpar fram till mitt på den första kortsidan, avsluta med 1 smygmaska i den tredje luftmaskan i början på varvet. Du virkar alltså runt utan att klippa tråden.

Fauzan 27.11.2017 - 02:10:

I left the unfinished shoes because no one is helping me in making the second round of the sole.would u help me?

DROPS Design 27.11.2017 kl. 10:51:

Dear Mrs Fauzan, you will find the answer to your previous question below. Happy crocheting!

Fauzan 25.11.2017 - 16:51:

When we bind off each corner in round around the sole there should be 54 tr crochet instead of 56.because there are 58 tr crochet in the first round .what u say

DROPS Design 27.11.2017 kl. 09:30:

Dear Mrs Fauzan, at the end of row 1 there are 58 tr. On row 2 you dec 2 sts = 58-2 = 56 tr. Happy crocheting!

Fauzan 17.11.2017 - 15:10:

How to make sole of the shoe there is no joining stitch to complete one round

DROPS Design 17.11.2017 kl. 16:38:

Dear Mrs Fauzan, sole is worked back and forth, then you work in the round around the sole. Happy crocheting!

Aline Soulard 11.09.2017 - 03:56:

Quand ont à fini les 4 rangs du chausson avant de commencer le lien cheville, est-ce qu'on coupe la laine ce n'est pas indiqué, si non comment on fait. Merci

DROPS Design 11.09.2017 kl. 09:07:

Bonjour Mme Soulard, tout à fait, ainsi, vous allez bien crocheter les 5-7 m du milieu dos comme indiqué pour le lien cheville. Bon crochet!

Martineb 12.11.2013 - 18:52:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas cette phrase : en même temps, augmenter 1 m au début et à la fin de chaque rang ainsi : faire 3 ms dans la 1ère et dans la dernière ms du rang = 19-22-24 (29-31) ms. Merci pour votre réponse Martine

DROPS Design 13.11.2013 kl. 08:55:

Chère Martineb, on va en fait augmenter 2 m (et non 1 seule, correction faite), au début et à la fin du rang en crochetant 3 ms dans la 1ère et 3 ms dans la dernière m du rang. Bon crochet!

Martineb 12.11.2013 - 18:50:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas cette phrase . en même temps, augmenter 1 m au début et à la fin de chaque rang ainsi : faire 3 ms dans la 1ère et dans la dernière ms du rang = 19-22-24 (29-31) ms. Merci pour votre réponse Martine

Agnes 03.09.2013 - 15:34:

Voor de zool moet ik 15 l. haken. Dit is incl de keerlosse. In de 2e toer moet ik dan 15 st. hebben. Ik kom uit op 14 st. Moet ik nu in de 1e toer al een keerlosse erbij haken, ik kom dan op 16 l.

DROPS Design 04.09.2013 kl. 10:45:

Hoi Agnes. Je hebt 1 v in de tweede l van de nld gehaakt = 1 l ter vervanging van de eerste v (Zie ook Haak Info) + 1 v = 2 v. Vervolgens haak je 1 v in de volgende 13 l = 15 v op de toer.

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