DROPS Baby / 13 / 4

Sweet Rebecca by DROPS Design

DROPS Dress in 2 threads Alpaca and soft toys and blanket.

Size: 1/3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 –3/4 years)
Size in cm: 50/56 – 62/68 – 74/80 (86/92 – 98/104)

Materials: DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
100-100-150 (150-150) g colour no 0302, camel
and use:
100-100-150 (150-150) g colour no 2020, light camel

DROPS circular needle size 4.5mm (40 and 80 cm)
DROPS crochet hook size 4.5
DROPS wooden button, no 503, 3 pcs

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Alpaca
from 3.20 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension: 18 sts x 23 rows with 2 threads of Alpaca on needle size 4.5mm in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm.

Garter sts (back and forth on needle): Knit all rows

Pattern: See diagram M.1. The diagram is seen from the right side.

Decreasing tips (applies to armhole): Dec within 3 edge sts in garter sts from the right side.
Dec as follows after 3 edge sts: slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso.
Dec as follows before 3 edge sts: K2 tog.

The dress is knitted round on circular needle from bottom up.
Using both ends of circular needle size 4.5mm (do this to ensure the edge becomes elastic) cast on 130-150-170 (190-210) sts with 1 thread of each color. Remove 1 needle and knit 1 round, purl 1 round and continue in M.1. After 2 repeats of M.1 continue in stocking sts. When piece measures 24-29-34 (39-42) cm, knit 1 round of stocking sts, at the same time dec 48-56-64 (76-84) sts evenly on round = 82-94-106 (114-126) sts. Purl 1 round, knit 2 rounds, purl 1 round, knit 1 round and purl 1 round. Insert a marking thread each side = 41-47-53 (57-63) sts between marking threads. On next row cast off 6-8-8- (8-8) sts each side for armhole (i.e. 3-4-4 (4-4) sts on each side of both marking threads). Now finish back and front pieces separately, piece measures approx 26-31-36 (41-44) cm.

Front piece: = 35-39-45 (49-55) sts. Knit stocking sts with 3 sts each side in garter sts. At the same time dec 1 st each side for armhole on every other row – see Decreasing tips – a total of 4 times = 27-31-37 (41-47) sts. When piece measures 32-38-44 (49-53) cm put the middle 9-11-11 (11-13) sts on thread for neck. Dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2 times = 5-6-9 (11-13) sts left on each shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 36-42-48 (54-58) cm.

Back piece: = 35-39-45 (49-55) sts.
Read all of the following section before knitting it!
Cast of the middle st mid back and finish each side separately (= button edge). Note! Knit the 3 sts towards mid back and the 3 edge sts at side in garter sts.
1st side: = 17-19-22 (24-27) sts. Cast off for armhole as described for front piece = 13-15-18 (20-23) sts. When piece measures 34-40-46 (52-56) cm cast off 7-8-8 (8-9) sts towards mid back for neck. On next row dec 1 st on neck line = 5-6-9 (11-13) sts left on shoulder. Continue in stocking sts with 3 edge sts towards armhole in garter sts until piece measures 36-42-48 (54-58) cm and cast off.
2nd side: Knit as 1st side but mirrored. Knit 1st row from mid back and start by picking up a st in cast off st mid back and knit this together with 1st st on row to avoid a notch at bottom of slit.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams.

Neck: Pick up approx 40-54 st (incl sts from thread mid front) using circular needle size 4.5mm and 1 thread of each color. Knit back and forth from mid back. Knit 1 row from wrong side, knit 1 row from right side and cast off loosely from wrong side.

Crochet border: Crochet a border round neck and sleeves using 1 thread of each color and crochet hook size 4.5 as follows: 1 dc in 1st st, *4 ch, 1 tr in the 1st of the 4 ch just crochet, skip approx 1.5 cm, 1 dc next st*, repeat from *-*.
Make 3 buttonhole loops on the left side of slit on back piece using 1 thread of each color and crochet hook size 4.5 as follows: 1 dc in 1st st, 3 ch, skip approx 1.5 cm, 1 dc in next st. Cut the thread and attach. Place the top loop just below the crochet neck border and the two others evenly on edge. Sew on buttons to right side of slit to fit loops.

SOFT TOYS: see pattern 13-33
BLANKET: see pattern 13-20


= knit
= make a yo
= slip 1 st as if to knit, K2 tog, psso

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 13-4) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (43)

Trinh Lieu 09.03.2020 - 10:28:

Hvordan får jeg mønster på nederste kant på kjole (ned i bunden af kjolen) til at være glat (hænger naturligt). Jeg synes den har tendens til at rulle sammen.

Julianne 22.02.2020 - 22:34:

Hello, could you please explain this, for some reason l am drawing a blank on how to proceed with the casting off for the armholes. "Decreasing tips (applies to armhole): Dec within 3 edge sts in garter sts from the right side." Thank you,

DROPS Design 24.02.2020 kl. 07:21:

Hi Julianne. This means you work the decreases from the right side and each decrease is after/before the 3 edge stitches on each side (so after, when you begin the row and before at the end of the row). Happy knitting!

Virp Salone 19.02.2020 - 06:49:

Takakappale. En oikein ymmärtänyt takakapaeen aloitusta kun ei ollut piirroskvaa takaosasta. Teenkö ensi suoraa siihen asti kun aloitan pään tien kavennukset?

DROPS Design 24.02.2020 kl. 16:08:

Aluksi takakappaleen keskimmäinen silmukka päätetään halkiota varten ja takakappale neulotaan kahtena osana. Kädentien silmukat päätetään kuten edessä, ja kun työn pituus on 34-40-46 (52-56) cm, päätetään pääntien silmukat.

Karin Gøgsig 02.07.2019 - 15:47:

Har 11 nøgler belle , kan jeg strikke denne søde kjole med 2 tråde i denne garn?

DROPS Design 03.07.2019 kl. 09:00:

Hej. Belle tillhör garngrupp B så du kan dessvärre inte använda det garnet till denna oppskrift. Vill du använda ett annat garn får du använda ett annat garn från garngrupp A (som Alpaca tillhör). Lycka till!

Julianne 28.05.2019 - 00:31:

Hello, l am having difficulty understanding this part of the directions. (bind off the outermost 7-8-8 (8-9) sts towards mid back of neck. Then dec 1 st on next row towards neck = 5-6-9 (11-13) sts back on shoulder. Continue in stocking st and 3 garter sts towards armhole until piece measures 36-42-48 (54-58) cm and cast off.) Could you please explain it a little better. Are the outermost st at the armhole? Any help would be appreciated. \r\nThank you,\r\nJulianne

DROPS Design 28.05.2019 kl. 09:25:

Dear Julianne, after you have cast off the stitches for armhole, you continue with 3 sts in stocking st towards amrhole decreasing inside these 3 sts - there is a vent on mid back of the dress, so that you bind off the 7-8-8 (8-9) first sts at the beg of the row beg from mid back (= from vent) and you continue then decreasing 1 more stitch at the beg of next row from mid back (from vent). You will then crochet a small edge (with buttonholes on the left side of vent) afterwards. Happy knitting!

Sonia Arias 29.12.2018 - 23:50:

Por favor necesito hacer un yoda para niña de 13 meses puede ayudarme con las medidas

DROPS Design 30.12.2018 kl. 15:17:

Hola Sonia. No entiendo que tipo de prenda quieres hacer.

Anita 17.09.2018 - 14:03:

Tak - det var en stor hjælp.

Anita 14.09.2018 - 13:42:

Kan jeg bruge cotton merino i stedet for drops alpaca?

DROPS Design 17.09.2018 kl. 12:04:

Hei Anita. Det vil nok ikke gå å bytte til Cotton Merino på denne modellen. Den er strikket i 2 tråder garn fra garngruppe A, som tilsvarer 1 tråd fra garngruppe C. Cotton Merino tilhører garngruppe B, og har derfor en annen strikkefasthet enn angitt. Du kan enten bytte til et annet garn fra Garngruppe A eller C (husk å bruke 2 tråder om du velger A), som du kan lese mer om her. Eller, om du gjerne vil strikke i Cotton Merino bør du velge en modell som er strikket i garngruppe B, som for eksempel: baby 18-9. God fornøyelse.

Anna Chiara 08.09.2018 - 18:16:

Quando si.patla di "Rimuovere un f."cosa.si.intende?

DROPS Design 08.09.2018 kl. 18:53:

Buonasera Anna Chiara. Per avviare le maglie, sovrappone le due estremità del ferro circolare, in modo da avere un bordo più elastico. Sfila poi una delle estremità e procede in modo normale. Il video che alleghiamo può aiutarla. Buon lavoro!

Gélinas Anne 05.07.2018 - 18:37:

Bonjour, je voudrais faire cette robe, mais je ne comprends pas le début du patron, est-ce que je dois utiliser l'aiguille circulaire comme une seule aiguille (donc en rond) ou je les utilise comme des aiguilles droites (en aller-retour)? merci de votre réponse

DROPS Design 06.07.2018 kl. 08:20:

Bonjour Mme Gélinas, la robe se tricote de bas en haut, d'abord en rond sur l'aiguille circulaire (on monte les mailles ainsi jusqu'aux emmanchures, puis on termine chaque partie séparément en allers et retours. Bon tricot!

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