DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 1.30 £ /50g

Order

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.70£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Baby 2-15

DROPS jumper with rabbit motif, trousers and socks in “Safran”.

DROPS Baby 2-15 / Suggest a name
Size: 3 – 6/9 – 12/18 – 24 months

Materials: DROPS Safran, from Garnstudio
The whole set::
150-150-200-200 g colour no 9, navy blue, or no 19, red
150-150-200-200 g colour no 6, blue, or no 10, yellow
50-50-50-50 g colour no 3, mint or no 4 dark mint
50-50-50-50 g colour no 10, yellow or no 17, white
50-50-50-50 g colour no 8, purple or no 12 salmon
Jumper only:
100-150-150-200 g colour no 9, navy blue, or no 19, red
50-50-50-50 g colour no 6, blue, or no 10, yellow
50-50-50-50 g colour no 3, mint or no 4 dark mint
50-50-50-50 g colour no 10, yellow or no 17, white
50-50-50-50 g colour no 8, purple or no 12 salmon
+ 3 buttons

DROPS circular needle and double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and 3 mm

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Baby Baby Jumpers Baby Trousers & Shorts Baby Accessories Easter Workshop animals bottom up colourwork floral graphic round neck sewn in sleeves

UK
Ireland

DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 1.30 £ /50g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.70£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.

JUMPER:
Knitting tension: 24 sts x 32 rows on needles size 3 mm in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm.
Moss st: First round: K1, P1. Second round P over K, K over P, repeat second round.
Pattern: See diagram. The diagram shows the pattern from the RS. M.6 = *1 row yellow, 5 rows purple*.

Front and back piece: Worked in the round on circular needle. Cast on 120-132-144-156 sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm with navy blue and work 3-3-3-4 cm moss st. Change to needle size 3 mm and continue in M.1. When piece measures 14-15-17-19 cm cast off 4-6-6-6 sts each side for armhole and complete front and back pieces separately back and front on needle. Make sure to have a full pattern repeat mid front.

Front piece: = 56-60-66-72 sts. Dec to shape the armhole on every other row: 1 st twice = 52-56-62-68 sts. After M.1 complete piece in navy blue. When piece measures 23-25-28-31 cm cast off the middle 14-16-20-22 sts for neck. Right shoulder: dec on every other row to shape the neckline: 2 sts 1 time, 1 st twice. Cast off remaining sts on shoulder when piece measures 26-28-31-34 cm. Left shoulder: dec to shape the neckline as described for right shoulder. When piece measures 25-27-30-33 cm change to needle size 2.5 mm and work 2 cm moss st, but after 2 rows make 2 buttonholes evenly distributed. 1 buttonhole = cast off 2 sts and cast on 2 new sts on return row. Cast off.

Back piece: = 56-60-66-72 sts. Dec for armhole as described for front piece = 52-56-62-68 sts. When piece measures 25-27-30-33 cm cast off the middle 22-24-28-30 sts for neck. Right shoulder: dec 2 sts on neckline on next row. Cast off remaining sts when piece measures 26-28-31-34 cm. Left shoulder: dec 2 sts on neckline on next row When piece measures 25-27-30-33 cm, change to needle size 2.5 mm and work 2 cm moss st, cast off.

Sleeve: Cast on 38-40-40-42 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with navy blue and work 2-2-3-3 cm moss st. Change to needle size 3 mm and continue in stocking st, at the same time inc 2-4-8-10 sts evenly on round = 40-44-48-52 sts. Now inc 2 sts mid under arm a total of 9-9-10-10 times as follows:
Size 3 months: on every 3rd and 4th round alternately
Size 6/9 + 12/18 months: on every 4th and 5th round alternately
Size 24 months: on every 5th round
= 58-62-68-72 sts. When piece measures 9-12-14-16 cm work M.2 – place a pattern repeat mid upper sleeve – and then complete piece in navy blue. When piece measures 15-18-20-22 cm cast off 4 sts mid under arm and complete sleeve back and forth on needle. Dec to shape the sleeve cap on every other row: 5 sts 2-2-3-3 times, cast off. Sleeve measures 17-20-23-25 cm.

Assembly: Sew shoulder and side seams. Pick up approx 70-80 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with navy blue round the neck and work 2 cm moss st back and forth on needle, but after 2 rows, make 1 buttonhole in line with the others on shoulder. Cast off. Set in sleeves and sew on buttons.

TROUSERS:
Size: 3 – 6/9 – 12/18 -24 months
DROPS circular needle and double pointed needle size 2.5 mm and 3 mm

Knitting tension: 24 sts x 32 rows on needles size 3 mm in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
Moss st: First round: K1, P1. Second round P over K, K over P, repeat second round.
Pattern: See diagram. The diagram shows the pattern from the RS. M.6 = *1 row yellow, 5 rows purple*.

Right leg: Cast on 52-56-58-62 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with blue and work 3 cm moss st. Change to needle size 3 mm and continue in M.3, at the same time inc 24-24-26-26 sts evenly on first round = 76-80-84-88 sts. When piece measures 16-18-21-25 cm divide piece at inside leg (= split) and complete piece back and forth on needle. Inc 1 st each side for seam. When piece measures 18-20-23-27 cm cast off 3 sts each side = 72-76-80-84 sts. Put piece aside and knit the other leg.

Left leg: like right leg.

Trousers: Put left and right leg in on the same circular needle = 144-152-160-168 sts. Now inc mid back on both sides of the middle 2 sts on every 3rd round: 1 st 4 times, at the same time dec mid front on every 3rd round on both sides of the middle 2 sts: 1 st 4 times as follows: K2 tog into back of st, K2 middle ts, K2 tog = 144-152-160-168 sts. When piece measures 34-38-43-48 cm change to needle size 2.5 mm, at the same time dec 14-12-12-12 sts evenly on round = 130-140-148-156 sts. Work 3 cm stocking st, P 1 round, 3 cm stocking st, cast off. Sew tog split on inside of legs. Fold Hem double towards WS and fasten. Insert a string.

SOCKS: see Babydrops 2, pattern no 3. Change to yellow for toes.

Diagram

	= purple
	= yellow
	= mint
	= navy blue
	= blue
	= P1 blue
	= first knit M.1a, then M.1b

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (6)

Merja Hanski wrote:

Ohjeessa viitataan piirroksiin M1 ja M2, joita ei sitten löydykään ohjeesta! Missähän ne ovat? Olen jo hankkinut langat ja ajattelin ryhtyä neulomaan!

11.09.2024 - 11:36

DROPS Design answered:

Nyt piirrokset avautuvat!

12.09.2024 - 18:51

Sharon White wrote:

Hi. I find that on the biggest size, I end up with 19 stitches on the front shoulder, (68-22=46,/2=23, -2=21,-2x1=19) but on the back piece shoulder I have only 17 (68-30=38, /2=19,-2=17). There seems to be the same 2-stitch difference on all sizes. Is this correct? Thank you.

21.02.2021 - 18:41

Hi Sharon, On the front piece after you have cast off the middle stitches and have 23 stitches on the shoulder, you cast off 2 stitches x 2 and then 1 stitch x 2 by the neck, which leaves you with 17 stitches. Happy knitting!

22.02.2021 - 07:44

Poppy wrote:

Hi, this pattern is so cute. I’m stuck on the last section of the sleeve. Please could you help me understand the step: Dec to shape the sleeve cap on every other row: 5 sts 2 times, cast off. I’m not sure where in the row I should be decreasing. Best wishes Poppy

11.10.2020 - 13:49

Dear Poppy, for shaping the sleev caps, you should do the decreases on both side of the sleeves, the beginning of each row. Now when you decreased on both side (once at the beginning of teh RS row, then once at the beginning of the WS row). Repeat the decreases on both side over the given number of stitches, at the given times. Happy Knitting!

12.10.2020 - 03:05

Christina wrote:

Hej det är väldigt otydligt hur många maskor man ska lägga för varje storlek. det brukar stå tydligt på mönstret. jag vill veta exakt antal maskor för storleken och exakt antal cm. förklara hur man läser mönstret för det skiljer sig från andra.

19.06.2015 - 02:02

Hej. Antal maskor som ska läggas upp står på samma sätt som i våra övriga mönster. Det första maskantalet är för storlek 3 mån, det andra för 6/9 mån osv. Vad är det du inte får att stämma? Mvh DROPS Design

24.06.2015 - 08:57

Sune wrote:

Det avmaskas 3 m i var sida för framstycket och 3 för bakstycket (= 6 för hela ärmhålet)

06.02.2014 - 10:38

Carina Egerbo wrote:

Jag upptäckte när jag stickat bålen och skulle dela arbetet och göra framstycket att det står fel i mönstret.Man ska avsmaska 6 maskor på var sida för ärm på framstycke och det är totalt 66 maskor på framst. Det bör då bli kvar efter avmaskn 54 m på framstycket. Enl mönstret ska det bli 60 m kvar.Får inte ihop det hela och ärm och övriga tröjan stämmer ej.

06.02.2014 - 10:01

Hej Carina. Mönstret er korrekt. Du feller 6 masker i hver side = 3 masker i hver side paa fram- og bakstk = 60 m kvar

06.02.2014 - 14:08