DROPS / 74 / 27

Sunday Morning by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket in "Muskat" with short sleeves and textured pattern on body

DROPS design: Pattern no R-395
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL
Materials: Muskat, 
300-350-400-400-450 g colour no 18, white
50-50–50-50-50 g colour no 08, off white

DROPS Needle sizes 3.5 and 4 mm
DROPS Crochet hook size 4 mm
DROPS Mother of Pearl Buttons, no 521: 6 items
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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension: 21 stitches x 28 rows = 10 x 10 cm with needle size 4 mm and stocking stitch. Remember needle size is only a guide!

Ridge/Garter stitch (back and forth on needle): 1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.
Pattern: See diagrams M.1 to M.8. Pattern in diagram is seen from the right side. NOTE: Make sure the pattern is the same on both front pieces.
Moss stitch: Row 1: * K1, P1 *, repeat from *-*. Row 2: Knit over purl and purl over knit. Repeat row 2 upwards.

Buttonhole: The buttonholes are worked on right front piece. 1 buttonhole = cast off the 3rd moss stitch from the edge and make 1 yarn over above the cast off stitch on the next row. Work buttonholes when piece measures:
Size S: 10, 15, 20, 25, 30 and 35 cm.
Size M: 10, 16, 21, 26, 31 and 36 cm.
Size L: 10, 15, 21, 26, 32 and 37 cm.
Size XL: 10, 16, 21, 27, 32 and 38 cm.
Size XXL: 10, 16, 22, 28, 34 and 39 cm.
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Back piece: Cast on 87-95-103-111-119 stitches (incl. 1 edge stitch in each side) with needle size 3.5 mm and white. Work 1 ridge, change to needle size 4 mm and continue with stocking stitch for 8-8-9-9-10 cm – at the same time, on the last row, decrease 8 stitches evenly on row = 79-87-95-103-111 stitches. Continue as follows (from the right side): 1 edge stitch, work M.1- start at arrow for your size - over 36-40-44-48-52 stitches, then M.2 (= 5 stitches), M.3 over 36-40-44-48-52 stitches and 1 edge stitch. Remember the knitting tension! When piece measures 14-14-15-15-16 cm increase 1 stitch in each side every 4 cm a total of 4 times = 87-95-103-111-119 stitches - the increased stitches are worked into the pattern as you go. When piece measures 31-32-33-34-35 cm decrease for armholes in each side every 2nd row: 3 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 0-1-2-3-4 times and 1 stitch 3-4-5-6-6 times = 75-77-79-81-85 stitches. When piece measures 48-50-52-54-56 cm cast off the middle 29 stitches for neck - cast off a little tightly, with purl from the right side – so that it looks like 1 ridge at the top. Then decrease on each side of neck every 2nd row: 1 stitch 2 times = 21-22-23-24-26 stitches left on each shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 50-52-54-56-58 cm.

Left front piece: Cast on 46-50-54-58-62 stitches (incl. 1 edge stitch in the side) with needle size 3.5 mm and white. Work 1 ridge and change to needle size 4 mm. Continue with stocking stitch but 3 stitches towards mid front are worked in moss stitch. When edge measures 9 cm decrease 4 stitches evenly on row, at the same time as you cast on 4 new stitches towards mid front for the band = 46-50-54-58-62 stitches. Continue as follows from the right side (start in the side): 1 edge stitch, M.5 over 41-45-49-53-57 stitches – start at arrow for your size, 4 band stitches in moss stitch. When piece measures 14-14-15-15-16 cm increase 1 stitch in the side every 4 cm a total of 4 times - the increased stitches are worked into the pattern as you go = 50-54-58-62-66 stitches. When piece measures 31-32-33-34-35 cm decrease for the armhole in the side as for the back piece. At the same time, when piece measures approx. 34-35-36-37-38 cm - adjust to after 1 whole repeat of M.5 - work and decrease to neck according to M.6A (continue pattern as before over the remaining stitches) = 21-22-23-24-26 stitches left on shoulder. Continue with M.6B (the remaining stitches continued in pattern as before). When piece measures 50-52-54-56-58 cm, cast off.

Right front piece: Cast on and work as for left but work M.7 instead of M.5 - work as follows from mid front: 4 stitches moss stitch, M.7 over 41-45-49-53-57 stitches, 1 edge stitch. In addition, work 6 buttonholes on band - see description above. Decrease for armhole as for left front piece. At the same time, when piece measures approx. 34-35-36-37-38 cm - adjust to match the left front piece - work and decrease for neck according to M.8A (continue the pattern as before over the remaining stitches) = 21-22-23-24-26 stitches left on shoulder. Continue with M.8B (the remaining stitches are worked in pattern as before). When piece measures 50-52-54-56-58 cm, cast off.

Sleeve: Cast on 60-64-68-72-76 stitches (incl. 1edge stitch in each side) with needle size 3.5 mm and white. Work M.4 (row 1 = right side), then change to needle size 4 mm and continue with stocking stitch. At the same time, when piece measures 3 cm increase 1 stitch in each side every 4-3-3-2-2 rows a total of 8 times = 76-80-84-88-92 stitches. When sleeve measures 15-13-12-11-10 cm decrease for sleeve cap in each side every 2nd row: 4 stitches 1 time, 3 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 2-4-4-4-3 times, 1 stitch 0-0-2-3-7 times, then decrease 2 stitches until piece measures 19-19-20-20-21 cm, finally decrease 3 stitches 1 time. Piece measures 20-20-21-21-22 cm, cast off.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves and sew sleeve and side seams in one go, inside the 1 edge stitch. Sew on buttons.

Crochet edges: Work with off white and hook size 4 mm around the neckline and around bottom of sleeves. Work around the outermost stitch as follows: 1 double crochet, * 3 chain stitches, skip 1 stitch and fasten with 1 double crochet in next stitch *, repeat from *-*.

Diagram

= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
= stitch cast off
= Work as follows from right side: K2 together, 1 yarn over. Work as follows from wrong side: 1 yarn over, P2 twisted together.
= Work as follows from right side: 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, K1, pass slipped stitch over. Work as follows from wrong side: P2 together, 1 yarn over
= Work as follows from right side: K2 together. Work as follows from wrong side: P2 twisted together.
= Work as follows from right side: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, K1, pass slipped stitch over. Work as follows from wrong side: P2 together.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 74-27) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (5)

Christine 13.06.2019 - 12:52:

I have looked for the pattern instructions as Eleanor did but I still cannot find them labelled 'questions.' I am tempted to just knit the whole thing in moss stitch !!! I will make samples of course to get the tension tight and I realise it will change the texture.

DROPS Design 13.06.2019 kl. 12:59:

Dear Christine, when you cast off for armholes on back piece, you have to cast off the number of sts given on each side, ie at the beg of RS row and at the beg of WS row, for ex. when you cast off 3 sts 1 time, you cast off 3 sts at the beg of next 2 rows starting from RS. On the front piece, you will cast off the sts for armhole on the armhole side (= just one time). Happy knitting!

Elenor Reuter 23.07.2010 - 21:55:

Paula, I had the same problem It took my many days to look carefully at the pattern and in the instructions above the start of the back is a section called Patterns and there you will see the english listed for the symbols good luck

Elenor Reuter 23.07.2010 - 21:46:

I think there is an error in the armhole decrease instructions. If you dec. 3sts and 2 sts every other row,you will only be decreasing on one side. Every other row will work for the dec 1's.

DROPS Design 23.04.2009 - 00:56:

The translations for the Diagrams for all Garnstudio patterns are included within the text of the Pattern itself. If you look you will find lines starting with an = sign. These are the translations, and they are given in the same vertical order as the chart symbols within the diagram.

Paula Buckelew 23.04.2009 - 00:34:

I wanted to knit the "drops 74-27, but when I reviewed the chart and saw that the key was written in Norwegian, I was lost. Can you help?

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