DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 1.90 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS AW2425

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 1.90 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..
Knitting tension: 17 sts x 22 rows on needles size 5mm in stocking stitch = 10x10cm,

Pattern: See diagrams M.1 and M.2, the diagrams show the pattern from the right side

Rib: *K1, P1*, repeat from *-*.

Shawl: Use both ends of circular needle and cast on 244 sts on 2 needles with Alaska (to ensure the edge becomes elastic). Remove 1 needle and knit 4 rows garter sts. (1st row = right side). Continue in M.1, but knit the first and last 3 sts in garter throughout. After M.1, knit next row as follows from right side: K3 *K2tog, yarn over needle*, repeat from *-* and finish with knit 3. Knit 3 rows stocking stitch, at the same time, dec 28 sts evenly on 2nd row in stocking stitch = 216 sts. NB! Don’t decrease any sts over the first and last 3 sts. Continue in M.2. After M.2, there’s 104 sts left on needle. Knit next row as follows from the right side: K3 *K2 tog, yarn over needle*, and finish with knit 3. Knit 2 rows stocking stitch, knit 1 row from wrong side, knit 1 row from right side whilst decreasing number of sts to 103 sts. Shawl measures approx 25cm.
Neck: Knit rib (see above), continuing knitting first and last 3 sts as before. When rib measures 12 cm cast off loosely in rib.
Cord and pompoms: Cut 2 threads Alaska, each 2.5m long. Twist hard and fold in order they twist together. Tie a knot each end. Pull cord through row of holes below neck. Make 2 pompoms with a diameter of approx 6-7cm and attach a pompom to each end of cord.


Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = 1 YO
symbols = K2 tog
symbols = K2 tog, 1 YO
symbols = 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso
symbols = 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso, 1 YO
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 93-14

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Comments / Questions (30)

country flag Anna Luce wrote:

Buonasera ...ho un piccolo problema ..sto terminando il coprispalle DROPS 93-14 ,ma non capisco quante maglie devo diminuire prima di iniziare il collo a coste, finito lo schema M2 ho 104 maglie poi nei ferri successivi ci sono le diminuzioni ma non dice quante maglie, 103 maglie prima di iniziare il collo sembra un eccesso,sara' un errore di trascrizione delle maglie rimanenti .vi ringrazio e chiedo scusa se mi sono prolungata nella descrizione.grazie

15.01.2021 - 22:23

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Anna Luce, abbiamo chiesto un controllo al settore design: se ci dovessero essere delle correzioni, le troverà direttamente nel modello online nei prossimi giorni. Buon lavoro!

17.01.2021 - 15:05

country flag US Knitter wrote:

When you say "decreasing 28 sts evenly distributed on the 2nd row = 216 sts," which type of decreases are used and exactly where are they placed?

03.12.2020 - 13:15

DROPS Design answered:

Dear US Knitter, decrease with knit 2 together and see this lesson to calculate how to work them. Happy knitting!

03.12.2020 - 16:16

country flag Stef Roll wrote:

Thank you so very much

15.06.2020 - 17:54

country flag Tina wrote:

Buongiorno, c'è un'errore nella descrizione dei simboli nel modello M2: 5°ferro: 1 dritto, 2 insieme, 1 gettato, 3 dritti, 1 gettato, 1 accavallato doppio ( non srmplice), 1 gettato, 3 dritti, 1 gettato, 1 accavallato semplice. Il simbolo che interessa 3 maglie è :passare una maglia senza lavorare, lavorare 2 insieme, accavallare la maglia passata, 1 gettato. grazie ciaooo, forse è un errore quando viene tradotto in italiano. non so. ciaoooo

24.04.2019 - 10:53

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Tina. Abbiamo corretto la descrizione del simbolo. La ringraziamo per la segnalazione. Buon lavoro!

24.04.2019 - 11:30

country flag CimarronShopper wrote:

So pleased with the results of this Pattern, completed last weekend. I wanted a but more substantial tie than original design, just made I-Cord instead, and omitted the PomPom feature...I'm big enough without those. Selected yarn is a refreshing Lilac tint: shoulders feel great these early spring days. Weather temps all over the place, so it's very helpful. Lots of compliments over the weekend, etc. THANK YOU so much for this lovely pattern! -CimarronShopper

26.03.2019 - 17:38

country flag CimarronShopper wrote:

Please disregard my previous inquiry! "MY BAD!" at the "1YO, Slip 1 knit-wise, KNIT 1 (NOTE: 1!), psso" I made the error of KNITTING 2 together on two of the repeats (habit from previous row (before stockinette's 5 rows). SORRY to bother anyone/everyone. It was my error, and NOTHING whatsoever to do with the Pattern! ~Problem SOLVED now~

18.03.2019 - 07:04

country flag CimarronShopper wrote:

In Row 13 of Pattern 2 (diagram on right side of page I have suddenly developed a problem. Every other row has been spot on. Are there any corrections to this pattern, and if there are corrections...please direct me to them. Your kind assistance would be greatly appreciated. Sincerely, CimarronShopper (Heartland USA)

18.03.2019 - 05:23

DROPS Design answered:

Dear CimarronShopper, not sure which kind of problems you have in M.2, on 13th row in M.2 start repeat with *K2 tog, then K3, work lace pattern (=K2 tog, YO, K1, YO, slip 1, K1, psso), K4*, and repeat from *-* Happy knitting!

18.03.2019 - 11:00

country flag GUILBERT Gisele wrote:

Bonjour je suis une tricoteuse très assidue j’adore vos modèles et surtout ce dernier que je vais réaliser en laine bleue ciel aiguilles du 5.5 car je serre toujours mon travail. J’aimerais savoir pourquoi vous ne mettez jamais les indications aussi en cm une fois le modèle réalisé. Ce qui serait utile à tous les tricoteurs et tricoteuses. Merci de votre réponse Dès que ce modèle que j’appelle nuage de printemps sera terminé je vous ferais parvenir une photo. Cordialement

26.01.2019 - 09:29

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Guilbert et merci pour votre fidélité. Les mesures sont toujours indiquées pour les vêtements, mais pas pour tous les accessoires (dans les modèles les plus récents toutefois, nous ajoutons ces informations quand elles sont relevantes). Si votre tension (= échantillon) est juste, vous obtiendrez le même résultat que sur la photo. Bon tricot!

28.01.2019 - 10:10

country flag Patricia C. wrote:

Bonjour, Dans le diagramme M2 doit-on débuter par 3 mailles endroit et finir par 3 mailles endroit ? Merci pour votre réponse.

18.09.2016 - 13:31

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Patricia, quand vous tricotez M.2 vous devez effectivement commencer et terminer chaque rang par 3 m end (= 3 m de bordure au point mousse de chaque côté). Bon tricot!

19.09.2016 - 09:37

country flag Patricia wrote:

Bonjour, J'ai fini de le tricoter avec la laine recommandée. Je voudrais savoir comment le laver car laine très délicate. Merci

21.06.2016 - 20:52

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Patricia, vous trouverez les consignes d'entretien sur l'étiquette de chaque pelote, mais également sur le nuancier en ligne - retrouvez également ici quelques généralités sur l'entretien. Rappelez-vous que votre magasin DROPS saura également vous conseiller, même par mail ou téléphone. Bon tricot!

22.06.2016 - 09:48