DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.00 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 93-2 / Suggest a name
Measurements: approximately 27cm x 220cm

Materials: DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio
450g colour no 23, dark beige

DROPS crochet hook no 7 mm

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.00 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Tension: 1 diamond = approx 27x27cm

Scarf: the scarf is made of 8 diamonds, which are crochet together
Crochet 4 ch using crochet hook 7mm and form a ring with a sl st.
1st round: 3 ch (= 1 tr) *1 ch, 1 tr in ring*, repeat from *to* a total of 7 times and finish with 1 ch and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beginning of round = 8 tr on round
2nd round: 4 ch (= 1 dtr) *4 ch, 1 dtr in next tr*, repeat from * to * a total of 7 times and finish with 4 ch and 1 sl st in 4th ch from beginning of round = 8 dtr on round
3rd round: Crochet as follows in each ch-loop: 1 dc, 1 ch, 1 tr, 1 ch, 1dtr, 1 ch, 1 dtr, 1 ch, 1 tr, 1 ch, 1 dc. Finish with 1 sl st in 1st dc from beginning of round = 8 leaves on round
4th round: 4 ch (= 1 dtr = 1st corner), *6 ch, 1dc at top of next leaf (between the 2 dtr), 4 ch, 1 dc at top of next leaf, 6 ch, 1dtr between the 2 dc between 2 leaves *, repeat from * to * a total of 4 times, but finish with 1 sl st in 4th ch from beginning of round (instead of 1 dtr between 2 leaves) = 12 loops round the diamond with 1 dtr in each corner.
5th round: Crochet as follows in the dtr in corner: 4 ch (=1dtr), 2 ch, 1 dtr, 2 ch, 1 dtr. Continue by crocheting 4 dtr in each loop and 1 dtr at top of each leaf. Finish with 1 sl st in 4th ch from beginning of round. Cut yarn.

To make up: Put 2 diamonds together and crochet them together as follows: 1 dc through both corner sts, 1 ch, *skip 1 st and crochet 1 dc in next st (through both diamonds), 1 ch, *, repeat from *to* to the other corner st.

Tassels: attach to both ends and along one side of scarf with 6-7cm between each tassel.
1 tassel: cut 3, 40cm long strands of Snow. Fold at middle and put loop through st scarf. Pull strands through loop.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (10)

country flag Andrea Kaiser wrote:

Superschönes Muster! Vielen Dank. Ich bin häkelanfänger , daher kann meine Anmerkung falsch sein. Müssen nicht in der 5.reihe vor der Kettmasche am Ende noch 4 Luftmaschen gehäkelt werden , damit man es so hat wie an anderen Ecken?oder wie ist : 4 Luftmaschen in das DStb häkeln gemeint?

26.03.2016 - 13:44

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Andrea, die 4 Lm am Rundenanfang ersetzen nur das erste Doppelstäbchen und müssen am Ende der unde nicht mehr gearbeitet werden.

29.03.2016 - 09:08

country flag Dakotah wrote:

Hi. This is a gorgeous scarf and I'd like to make it. Can you tell me if the pattern has been corrected?

06.10.2014 - 19:18

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Dakotah, pattern has been checked and looks correct. Remember you can ask your question here if you need some help while working on this. Happy crocheting!

07.10.2014 - 09:22

country flag JH De Ruiter wrote:

Hallo allemaal. Ik snap ondanks de uitleg niet hoe de vierkanten aan elkaar worden gehaakt. De video geeft volgens mij een andere manier aan hè? Hartelijke groet, Jenet.

29.08.2014 - 00:25

DROPS Design answered:

Er zijn veel verschillende methoden om blokjes aan elkaar te haken. U kunt het patroon volgen, dus u legt dan twee blokken op elkaar en steekt de haaknaald steeds een steek van beide blokken heen of u kunt de manier van de video doen als u dat mooier of duidelijker vindt.

01.09.2014 - 17:43

country flag Marie wrote:

J'ai comme l'impression qu'il y a plusieurs problèmes dans les explications fournies : R 1 : "...joindre avec 3ml et 1 mc" serait plutot 'joindre avec 1ml et 1mc', non? R2 : "*4ml, 1DB dans la DB suiv*" serait plutot '*4ml, 1DB dans l'arceau*', non? R3 : "...terminer par 1ml" c'est bien à chaque pétale ? Merci Cordialement

26.01.2014 - 16:41

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marie, il y avait bien une erreur à la fin du tour 1, mais le 2ème tour est juste, on a 8 B au 1er tour, au 2ème tour, on crochète 1 DB dans chacune des B du 1er tour, mais on a 4 ml entre chaque DB. Le tour 3 se termine par 1 mc dans la 1ère ms, on ne "ferme" pas entre chaque pétale. Bon crochet !

27.01.2014 - 09:09

country flag Sabine Hackenberg wrote:

In der deutschen Anleitung ist ein Fehler: für die Reihe 3 fehlen nach dem DStb jeweils die LM zwischen St und fM (s. englische Anleitung)

06.02.2013 - 15:13

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sabine, ich habe die deutsche Anleitung geprüft und sie ist wie das norwegische Original, In der englischen Anleitung sind zusätzliche Luftmaschen, das stimmt. Ich werde Ihre Rückmeldung zum Prüfen an die Design Abteilung weitergeben, dann können wir eine Anleitung korrigieren. Vielen Dank

06.02.2013 - 17:53

country flag DROPS Design NL wrote:

Toer 1: Ja, u heeft gelijk. Het is een foutje in de vertaling. Het is aangepast. Toer 5: U moet in elke hoek haken zoals beschreven: 1 dstk (1e keer wel 4 l), 2 l, 1 dstk, 2 l, 1 dstk. Haak tussen de hoeken 4 dstk op elk boogje en 1 dst op elk blad. Ik heb toer 5 veranderd in: Haak in het dstk in ELKE hoek als volgt: . Ik hoop dat het zo duidelijker is.

31.10.2011 - 13:45

country flag DROPS Design NL wrote:

Toer 1: Ja, u heeft gelijk. Het is een foutje in de vertaling. Het is aangepast. Toer 5: U moet in elke hoek haken zoals beschreven: 1 dstk (1e keer wel 4 l), 2 l, 1 dstk, 2 l, 1 dstk. Haak tussen de hoeken 4 dstk op elk boogje en 1 dst op elk blad. Ik heb toer 5 veranderd in: Haak in het dstk in ELKE hoek als volgt: . Ik hoop dat het zo duidelijker is.

31.10.2011 - 13:45

country flag Sonia wrote:

1e toer: Voordat je sluit met een hv moet je toch eerst 1 losse haken? Staat niet in het patroon 5e toer is mij niet duidelijk: in de hoek haak je 3 dstk onderbroken door 2 lossen, maar hoe gaat het verder in de andere hoeken? Als ik dat probeer te volgen heb ik het gevoel dat ik teveel dstk's krijg en gaat de vierkant krullen. Graag iets meer detail, iig tot de volgende hoek. Gr, Sonia

30.10.2011 - 23:34

country flag Drops Design NL wrote:

2e toer: moet inderdaad 4e l zijn, het patroon is aangepast. De 3e toer klopt, zoals ook te zien op de foto zijn de blaadjes niet geheel symmetrisch.

06.05.2011 - 15:00

country flag Ellis wrote:

2e toer moet denk ik zijn, eindigen met halve vaste in 4e losse? en ik heb een vraag over de 3e toer, klopt het dat je na de 2 dubbele stokjes geen losse haakt voor het stokje en geen losse voor de vaste?het wordt zo toch geen symmetrisch blaadje? Ik hoor graag van je. groet, ellis

06.05.2011 - 09:47