DROPS Paris
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Together Forever

Knitted top in DROPS Paris. Piece is knitted top down with V-neck, lace pattern, I-cord and vents in the sides. Size: S - XXXL

Highlight Size:

DROPS 249-36

#togetherforevertop

DROPS design: Pattern w-911
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

YARN:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-300-350-350-400-400 g colour 67, wheat

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 mm: Length: 80 cm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 mm: Length: 80 cm

KNITTING TENSION:
18 stitches in width and 24 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE! Remember that needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP:
Increase by making 1 yarn over, on next row purl yarn over from wrong side or knit from right side to make a hole. Work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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TOP - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Piece is worked back and forth, top down. Work front piece in 2 parts until V-neck has been worked, then slip the 2 parts together and finish front piece downwards. The back piece is worked in 1 part. Sew straps on to back piece and sew the side seams.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 11-11-13-13-15-15 stitches on circular needle size 4.5 mm with DROPS Paris and work in a strap as follows:
ROW 1: Slip 1 stitch purlwise with strand in front of piece and knit 1, work 7-7-9-9-11-11 stitches in GARTER STITCH – read explanation above, slip 1 stitch purlwise with strand in front of piece and knit 1.
Work back and forth as 1st row until strap measures 6-8-10-12-14-16 cm (strap is later fastened to back piece). Insert a marker to measure from here.
Continue as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work as before over the first 5-5-6-6-7-7 stitches (edge stitches), knit 1 (stocking stitch), work as before over the last 5-5-6-6-7-7 stitches (edge stitches).
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work as before over the first 5-5-6-6-7-7 edge stitches, purl 1 (stocking stitch), work as before over the last 5-5-6-6-7-7 edge stitches.
On next row begin increase for armhole and V-neck. Increase inside edge stitches in each side on every other row - read INCREASE TIP.
I.e. work as follows:
Work as before over edge stitches, increase 1 stitch for armhole, work in stocking stitch until 5-5-6-6-7-7 stitches remain, increase 1 stitch for V-neck and work as before over edge stitches. Continue back and forth and repeat increase every other row until 7-8-11-16-11-8 increases have been done in in each side = 25-27-35-45-37-31 stitches.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Now work in the different sizes as follows:

SIZE S, M and L:
Increase inside edge stitches on every other row for V-neck 8-8-4 more times, but on every other increase skip increase at the beginning of row (towards armhole).
15-16-15 increases for V-neck has been done in total and 11-12-13 times towards armhole in total = 37-39-41 stitches. Piece measures approx. 13-13-13 cm from marker. Increases in size S, M and L are done. Finish with 1 row from wrong side.

SIZE XL:
Increases in size XL are done = 45 stitches. Piece measures approx. 13 cm from marker. Finish with 1 row from wrong side.

SIZE XXL AND XXXL:
Increase inside edge stitches on every other row for V-neck 4-8 more times, at the same time increase on every row towards armhole (both from right side and wrong side). You have increased 15-16 times for V-neck and 19-24 times towards armhole in total = 49-55 stitches on needle. Piece measures approx. 13-13 cm from marker. Increases in size XXL and XXXL are done. Finish with 1 row from wrong side.

ALL SIZES:
= 37-39-41-45-49-55 stitches. Put piece aside and work left front piece as explained below.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 11-11-13-13-15-15 stitches on circular needle size 4.5 mm with DROPS Paris and work in a strap as follows:
ROW 1: Slip 1 stitch purlwise with strand in front of piece and knit 1, work 7-7-9-9-11-11 stitches in garter stitch, slip 1 stitch purlwise with strand in front of piece and knit 1.
Work back and forth as 1st row until strap measures 6-8-10-12-14-16 cm (strap is later fastened to back piece). Insert a marker to measure from here.
Continue as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work as before over the first 5-5-6-6-7-7 stitches (edge stitches), knit 1 (stocking stitch), work as before over the last 5-5-6-6-7-7 stitches (edge stitches).
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work as before over the first 5-5-6-6-7-7 edge stitches, purl 1 (stocking stitch), work the last 5-5-6-6-7-7 edge stitches as before.
On next row begin increase for V-neck and armholes. Increase inside edge stitches in each side on every other row - remember INCREASE TIP.
I.e. work as follows:
Work as before over edge stitches, increase 1 stitch for V-neck, work in stocking stitch until 5-5-6-6-7-7 stitches remain, increase 1 stitch for armhole and work as before over edge stitches.
Continue back and forth and repeat increase every other row until 7-8-11-16-11-8 increases have been done in in each side = 25-27-35-45-37-31 stitches.
Now work in the different sizes as follows:

SIZE S, M and L:
Increase inside edge stitches on every other row for V-neck 8-8-4 more times, but on every other increase skip increase at the end of row (towards armhole).
15-16-15 increases for V-neck has been done in total and 11-12-13 times towards armhole in total = 37-39-41 stitches on row. Piece measures approx. 13-13-13 cm from marker. Finish with 1 row from wrong side.

SIZE XL:
Increases in size XL are done = 45 stitches. Piece measures approx. 13 cm from marker. Finish with 1 row from wrong side.

SIZE XXL and XXXL:
Increase inside edge stitches on every other row for V-neck 4-8 more times, at the same time increase on every row towards armhole (both from right side and wrong side). 15-16 increases for V-neck has been done in total and 19-24 times towards armhole in total = 49-55 stitches. Piece measures approx. 13-13 cm from marker. Finish with 1 row from wrong side.

ALL SIZES:
= 37-39-41-45-49-55 stitches on needle. Now slip left and front piece together into a front piece. Begin from right side on right front piece, work as before over edge stitches, knit until 5-5-6-6-7-7 stitches remain, work 5-5-6-6-7-7 stitches in garter stitch, cast on 1 new stitch, work the first 5-5-6-6-7-7 edge stitches from left front piece in garter stitch, knit until 5-5-6-6-7-7 stitches remain and work as before over these stitches = 75-79-83-91-99-111 stitches.
Insert a marker in piece, now measure the piece from here.
Now cast on stitches in each side for armholes while at the same time working fewer stitches in garter stitch mid front of V-neck in the 4 largest sizes, work as follows:
ROW 1 (= wrong side):
Work 5-5-6-6-7-7 stitches in garter stitch, purl 27-29-29-33-35-41, 11-11-13-13-15-15 stitches in garter stitch, purl 27-29-29-33-35-41 and 5-5-6-6-7-7 stitches in garter stitch (edge stitches are no longer worked). Cast on 4-6-7-8-9-9 new stitches at the end of row = 79-85-90-99-108-120 stitches.
ROW 2 (= right side):
Work 5-5-6-6-7-7 stitches in garter stitch, knit 31-35-34-42-46-52, work 11-11-11-11-11-11 stitches in garter stitch, knit 27-29-30-34-33-39, work 5-5-6-6-7-7 stitches in garter stitch and cast on 4-6-7-8-9-9 new stitches at the end of row = 83-91-97-107-117-129 stitches.
ROW 3 (= wrong side):
Work 5-5-6-6-7-7 stitches in garter stitch, purl 31-35-37-42-46-52, 11 stitches in garter stitch, purl 31-35-37-42-46-52 and 5-5-6-6-7-7 stitches in garter stitch.
ROW 4 (= right side):
Work 5-5-6-6-7-7 stitches in garter stitch, knit 31-35-37-42-46-52, A.1 over 11 stitches, knit 31-35-37-42-46-52 and 5-5-6-6-7-7 stitches in garter stitch.
ROW 5 (= wrong side):
Work 5-5-6-6-7-7 stitches in garter stitch, purl 31-35-37-42-46-52, A.1 over 11 stitches, purl 31-35-37-42-46-52 and 5-5-6-6-7-7 stitches in garter stitch.

Now work in stocking stitch, A.1 and 5-5-6-6-7-7 stitches in garter stitch in each side.
Work until piece measures 21-22-23-24-25-26 cm from marker – adjust after one whole or half repetition of A.1. On next row from right side increase 9-9-13-15-15-15 stitches evenly over stitches in stocking stitch = 92-100-110-122-132-144 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work next row from wrong side as follows: 5-5-6-6-7-7 stitches in garter stitch, work rib (purl 2/knit 2), until 7-7-8-8-9-9 stitches remain, purl 2 and 5-5-6-6-7-7 stitches in garter stitch. Work rib for 4 cm. Loosely cast off. Front piece measures 25-26-27-28-29-30 cm from marker and approx. 44-47-50-53-56-59 cm from cast-on edge.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 53-55-57-59-61-63 stitches on circular needle size 4.5 mm with DROPS Paris and work as follows:
ROW 1 (= wrong side):
Slip 1 stitch purlwise with strand in front of piece, knit 1, knit until 2 stitches remain, slip 1 stitch purlwise with strand in behind piece and knit 1.
Work 1st row until 3 ridges have been worked (6 rows).
On next row from right side begin increase for armholes. Increase 1 stitch inside edge 5-5-6-6-7-7 edge stitches in each side on every other row - remember INCREASE TIP.
I.e. work as follows from right side:
Slip 1 stitch purlwise with strand in front of piece, knit 1, work 3-3-4-4-5-5 stitches in garter stitch (5-5-6-6-7-7 edge stitches), increase 1 stitch for armhole, knit (stocking stitch) until 5-5-6-6-7-7 stitches remain, increase 1 stitch for armhole, work 3-3-4-4-5-5 stitches in garter stitch, slip 1 stitch purlwise with strand in behind piece, knit 1 (5-5-6-6-7-7 edge stitches). Continue back and forth with stocking stitch and edge stitches, repeat increase every other row until 7-8-10-16-11-8 increases have been done in total in each side = 67-71-77-91-83-79 stitches on row.
Now work in the different sizes as follows:

SIZE S, M and L:
Increase for armhole inside edge stitches in each side every 4th row 4-4-3 times. 11-12-13 increases have been done in total = 75-79-83 stitches. Piece measures approx. 15-15-15 cm. Finish with 1 row from wrong side.

SIZE XL:
Increases in size XL are done = 91 stitches. Piece measures approx. 15 cm. Finish with 1 row from wrong side.

SIZE XL and XXXL:
Increase for armhole inside edge stitches in each side on every row (both from right side and wrong side) 8-16 more times. 19-24 increases have been done in total = 99-111 stitches. Piece measures approx. 15-15 cm. Finish with 1 row from wrong side.

ALL SIZES:
= 75-79-83-91-99-111 stitches on needle.
Insert a marker in piece, now measure the piece from here. Now cast on stitches in each side for armholes as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side):
Work 5-5-6-6-7-7 stitches in garter stitch, knit (stocking stitch) the rest of row (edge stitches are no longer worked) and cast on 4-6-7-8-9-9 new stitches at the end of row = 79-85-90-99-108-120 stitches.
ROW 2 (= wrong side):
5-5-6-6-7-7 stitches in garter stitch, purl (stocking stitch) the rest of row and cast on 4-6-7-8-9-9 new stitches at the end of row = 83-91-97-107-117-129 stitches.
Work in stocking stitch with 5-5-6-6-7-7 stitches in garter stitch in each side.
Work until piece measures 21-22-23-24-25-26 cm from marker. On next row from right side increase 9-9-13-15-15-15 stitches evenly over stitches in stocking stitch = 92-100-110-122-132-144 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work next row from wrong side as follows: 5-5-6-6-7-7 stitches in garter stitch, work rib (purl 2/knit 2), until 7-7-8-8-9-9 stitches remain, purl 2 and 5-5-6-6-7-7 stitches in garter stitch. Work rib for 4 cm. Loosely cast off. Back piece measures 25-26-27-28-29-30 cm from marker and approx. 40-41-42-43-44-45 cm from cast-on edge.

ASSEMBLY:
Fasten straps at the edge in each side of cast-on edge on back piece. Sew side seams down to where rib begins = vents in the sides.

This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.

Updated online: 14.06.2024
The pattern is updated. Correction on front pieces in size L, XXL and XXXL.

Diagram

	= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
	= knit from wrong side
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next row knit yarn over to make a hole
	= knit 2 together
	= slip 2 stitches as if to knit together, knit 1, pass the slipped stitches together over stitch worked
	= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked

© 1982-2025 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (6)

Lies Den Hollander wrote:

Ik zou het fijn vinden om bij de foto's bovenaan ook de achterkant en zijkant in beeld te zien. Nu zie je alleen de voorkant

06.12.2024 - 13:27

Kira Brauda wrote:

Kurze Frage, ist hier bei dem linken Teil ein Fehler? Auf der rechten Seite habe ich bei dem armausschnitt zwei Maschen zum Rand und links wirkt es so als ob ich den Halsausschnitt mit 2 machen zum Rand stricke. Bitte um hilfe

17.10.2024 - 23:04

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Brauda, ich misverstehe vielleicht Ihre Frage aber bei beiden Vorderteile sollen Sie genauso viele Maschen vor/nach den Zunahmen beidseitig haben, dh beim rechten Vorderteil nehmen Sie nach den ersten 5-5-6-6-7-7 Maschen für den Armausschnitt und vor den letzten 5-5-6-6-7-7 Maschen für den V-Ausschnitt; und beim linken Vorderteil nehmen Sie nach den ersten 5-5-6-6-7-7 Maschen für den Armausschnitt und vor den letzten 5-5-6-6-7-7 Maschen für den V-Ausschnitt. Entschuldigung im voraus wenn ich Ihre Frage misverstanden haben. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

18.10.2024 - 08:36

Rahel wrote:

Sehr schönes Top. Ich musste die Träger aber einige Zentimeter länger machen im Nachhinein, da es viel zu nah oben saß und so im Brustbereich auch komisch aussah.

19.06.2024 - 16:40

Stefanía wrote:

Væri mögulegt að sýna myndir af bakhlið stykkjanna? Þá er ég að tala um allar uppskriftir, ekki bara þessa. Vantar svo að geta séð hvernig bakið á flíkinni á að vera.

30.05.2024 - 16:19

Lene Svennigsen wrote:

Hvor er diagrammet til denne opskrift. Jeg har prøvet på flere enheder og det kommer ikke frem. \r\n\r\nVh. Lene Svenningsen

13.05.2024 - 12:32

Hej Lene, så er diagrammet ude på den danske :)

14.05.2024 - 12:04

Signe wrote:

Diamond dreams

22.01.2024 - 00:52

Together Forever

Knitted top in DROPS Paris. Piece is knitted top down with V-neck, lace pattern, I-cord and vents in the sides. Size: S - XXXL

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Pattern instructions

Diagram

How to read a size chart

How to read knitting diagrams

How to measure the knitting tension and how to calculate a pattern

How to increase/decrease evenly!

Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

How can I get help with a DROPS pattern?

How to change yarns or yarn amounts

How to choose yarn

How to cast on

How to knit stitches

How to increase stitches at the end of a row

How to decrease stitches

How to cast off from the right side

How to cast off from the wrong side

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Comments / Questions (6)

Together Forever

Knitted top in DROPS Paris. Piece is knitted top down with V-neck, lace pattern, I-cord and vents in the sides. Size: S - XXXL

Diagram explanations

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	DROPS Paris uni colour 100% Cotton	1.20 £ /50g	Order
	DROPS Paris recycled denim 100% Cotton	1.10 £ /50g	Order

	DROPS Paris uni colour 100% Cotton 1.20 £ /50g Order
	DROPS Paris recycled denim 100% Cotton 1.10 £ /50g Order