DROPS Daisy
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g

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Get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.50£.

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Mint Romance

Knitted jumper in DROPS Daisy. The piece is worked top down with diagonal/European shoulders, lace pattern, double neck and split in sides. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 249-12
DROPS Design: Pattern da-009
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

YARN:
DROPS DAISY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
550-600-650-750-800-900 g colour 08, pistachio ice cream

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need 80 cm circular needle in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Women Jumpers Classic Textures assembly free double neck european shoulder lace oversized round neck top down

UK
Ireland

DROPS Daisy
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows, from both the right and wrong side.
1 ridge in height = knit 2 rows.

I-CORD:
FIRST 2 STITCHES:
Worked as follows on every row: Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with yarn in front, knit 1.
LAST 2 STITCHES:
Worked as follows on every row: Work until there are 2 stitches left on the row, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with yarn in front, knit 1.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern, seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP-1:
INCREASE 1 STITCH TOWARDS LEFT – from right side:
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous round, pick up strand from the front and knit the back loop.
INCREASE 1 STITCH TOWARDS RIGHT – from right side:
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous round, pick up strand from the back and knit the front loop.

INCREASE TIP-2:
INCREASE 1 STITCH TOWARDS LEFT – from wrong side:
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous round, pick up strand from the back and purl the front loop.
INCREASE 1 STITCH TOWARDS RIGHT – from wrong side:
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous round, pick up strand from the front and purl the back loop.

KNITTING TIP:
When working short rows, you will be left with a small hole each time you turn – this can be closed by tightening the strand or by using the technique German Short Rows as follows:
Slip the first stitch purl-wise, take the strand over the right needle and tighten well from behind (2 loops on the needle). Work these 2 loops together on the next row.

DECREASE TIP (mid-under sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker-thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker-thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The pattern uses both long and short needles; start with the length which fits the number of stitches and change when necessary.
The piece is started back and forth, with cast-on stitches at the back of the neck, then working the back piece top down while increasing stitches on each side for the shoulders; these are slightly diagonal. The back piece is continued as far as the armholes. The front piece is then worked in 2 sections, knitting up stitches along 1 back shoulder, working pattern and increasing for the neckline, then this being repeated on the other shoulder. The 2 front sections are joined when the neckline is finished and worked as far as the armholes. The front and back pieces are joined using circular needle and the body is worked in the round, then divided for the split in each side and the front and back pieces finished separately, back and forth. Stitches are knitted up around the armholes for the sleeves, which are first worked back and forth with short rows for the sleeve cap, then finished in the round. Stitches are knitted up around the neckline and the neck worked in the round, then folded double to the inside.

BACK PIECE:
The piece is started back and forth. Cast on 35-35-37-37-39-39 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm and DROPS Daisy.
ROW 1 (wrong side):
Purl.
ROW 2 (right side):
Read INCREASE TIP-1, knit 4, increase 1 stitch towards the left, knit until there are 4 stitches left, increase 1 stitch towards the right, knit 4.
ROW 3 (wrong side):
Read INCREASE TIP -2, purl 4, increase 1 stitch towards the left, purl until there are 4 stitches left, increase 1 stitch towards the right, purl 4.
Repeat ROWS 2 and 3 until you have increased a total of 30-35-39-39-43-48 times on each side = 95-105-115-115-125-135 stitches.
Insert 1 marker outermost on one side. The piece is now measured from here!
Continue with stocking stitch – REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION - until the piece measures 2-3-4-4-4-5 cm from the marker.
Now work PATTERN – read description above, with the first row from the right side as follows: 1 GARTER STITCH – read description above, 0-1-1-1-0-1 stocking stitches, work A.1 until there are 1-1-2-2-2-1 stitches left, 0-0-1-1-0-0 stocking stitches, 1 garter stitch.
When A.1 is finished, work as follows from the right side: 1 garter stitch, A.2A, work A.2B 9-10-11-11-12-13 times in width, A.2C, 1 garter stitch. Continue this pattern back and forth.
AT THE SAME TIME when there are 6-6-6-10-10-10 rows left in A.2 and the next row is from the right side, begin increasing for the armholes – the piece measures approx. 12-13-14-13-13-14 cm from the marker.

INCREASE FOR ARMHOLES:
ROW 1 (right side):
Remember INCREASE TIP-1, work 1 garter stitch, increase 1 stitch towards the left, continue the pattern until there is 1 stitch left, increase 1 stitch towards the right, 1 garter stitch.
ROW 2 (wrong side):
Continue the pattern.
Work ROWS 1 and 2 a total of 3-3-3-5-5-5 times (6-6-6-10-10-10 worked rows) = 101-111-121-125-135-145 stitches.
After the last row from the wrong side, the piece measures approx. 13-14-15-15-15-16 cm, measured from the marker down the armhole. Cut the strand. Place the stitches on a stitch holder.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Find the left shoulder on the back piece as follows: Lay the piece flat, right side opp with the stitch holder towards you; left side of the piece is the left shoulder.
Start from the right side (by the neck) and knit up 1 stitch in each row along the left back shoulder, inside 1 stitch = 30-35-39-39-43-48 stitches.
All measurements on the front piece are measured from the knitted-up edge.
Work stocking stitch back and forth, with the first row from the wrong side, until the piece measures 11-11-11-12-12-12 cm. Now increase for the neckline as follows:
ROW 1 (right side):
Remember INCREASE TIP-1, knit 3, increase 1 stitch towards the left, knit to end of row.
ROW 2 (wrong side):
Purl.
Work ROWS 1 and 2 a total of 4 times (8 worked rows) = 34-39-43-43-47-52 stitches (next row is from the right side).
Cut the strand. Place the stitches on a stitch holder.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Start from the right side (by the shoulder) and knit up 1 stitch in each row along the right back shoulder, inside 1 stitch = 30-35-39-39-43-48 stitches.
All measurements on the front piece are measured from the knitted-up edge.
Work stocking stitch back and forth, with the first row from the wrong side until the piece measures 11-11-11-12-12-12 cm. Now increase for the neckline as follows:
ROW 1 (right side):
Knit until there are 3 stitches left, increase 1 stitch towards the right – remember INCREASE TIP-1.
ROW 2 (wrong side):
Purl.
Work ROWS 1 and 2 a total of 4 times (8 worked rows) = 34-39-43-43-47-52 stitches (next row is from the right side).
Now the 2 front pieces are joined as follows:

FRONT PIECE (joining the right and left pieces):
Work as follows from the right side:
Work the 34-39-43-43-47-52 stitches from the right front piece, cast on 27-27-29-29-31-31 stitches for the neckline, work the 34-39-43-43-47-52 stitches from the left front piece = 95-105-115-115-125-135 stitches.
Work stocking stitch back and forth until the piece measures 14-15-15-16-18-18 cm.
Now work PATTERN, with the first row from the right side as follows: 1 garter stitch, 0-1-1-1-0-1 stocking stitches, work A.1 until there are 1-1-2-2-2-1 stitches left, 0-0-1-1-0-0 stocking stitches, 1 garter stitch.
When A.1 is finished, work as follows from the right side: 1 garter stitch, A.2A, work A.2B 9-10-11-11-12-13 times, A.2C, 1 garter stitch. Continue this pattern back and forth.
AT THE SAME TIME when there are 6-6-6-10-10-10 rows left in A.2 and the next row is from the right side, begin increasing for the armholes – the piece measures approx. 23-24-25-23-25-26 cm.

INCREASE FOR ARMHOLES:
ROW 1 (right side):
Remember INCREASE TIP-1, work 1 garter stitch, increase 1 stitch towards the left, continue the pattern until there is 1 stitch left, increase 1 stitch towards the right, 1 garter stitch.
ROW 2 (wrong side):
Continue the pattern.
Work ROWS 1 and 2 a total of 3-3-3-5-5-5 times (6-6-6-10-10-10 worked rows) = 101-111-121-125-135-145 stitches.
After the last row from the wrong side, the piece measures approx. 25-26-27-27-29-30 cm. The back and front pieces are now joined for the body, and the piece is now measured from here!

BODY:
Work the 101-111-121-125-135-145 stitches on the front piece according to the first row in A.3, cast on 4-4-4-10-10-10 stitches (= side. Insert a marker-thread in the middle of the cast-on stitches), work the 101-111-121-125-135-145 stitches on the back piece, cast on 4-4-4-10-10-10 stitches (= side. Insert a marker-thread in the middle of the cast-on stitches) = 210-230-250-270-290-310 stitches.
Allow the marker-threads to follow your work onwards; they are used for the split in each side. Work stocking stitch to the first marker-thread (the round starts here) and work pattern as follows:

A.3:
Work A.3, 21-23-25-27-29-31 times on the round, AT THE SAME TIME on the last round increase 0-1-2-0-1-2 stitches evenly spaced = 210-231-252-270-291-312 stitches.

A.1:
When A.3 is finished, work A.1 over all stitches, AT THE SAME TIME on the last round decrease 0-1-2-0-1-2 stitches evenly spaced = 210-230-250-270-290-310 stitches.

A.2B:
When A.1 is finished, work A.2B, 21-23-25-27-29-31 times on the round.

A.3:
When A.2B is finished, work A.3, 21-23-25-27-29-31 times on the round, AT THE SAME TIME on the last round increase 0-1-2-0-1-2 stitches evenly spaced = 210-231-252-270-291-312 stitches.

A.1:
When A.3 is finished, work A.1 over all stitches, AT THE SAME TIME on the last round, decrease 0-1-2-0-1-2 stitches evenly spaced = 210-230-250-270-290-310 stitches.
When A.1 is finished, work stocking stitch until the body measures 28-29-29-31-31-31 cm, from the armhole.
Now divide at both marker-threads for the split in each side. Leave the back piece stitches on the needle/on a stitch holder, and work the front piece back and forth as follows:

FRONT PIECE:
= 105-115-125-135-145-155 stitches. On the next row (right side) start the rib, AT THE SAME TIME increase 33-39-41-43-45-55 stitches evenly spaced on the row = 138-154-166-178-190-210 stitches, working as follows:
Change to needle size 3 mm, work 2 stitches I-CORD – read description above, work rib knit 2, purl 2 – remember the increases) until there are 4 stitches left, knit 2, 2 stitches I-cord.
When the rib measures 8-8-9-9-9-10 cm, cast off. The jumper measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm.

BACK PIECE:
Work in the same way as the front piece.

SLEEVES:
Lay the jumper flat and insert 1 marker at the top of the armhole = mid-top of shoulder (NOTE! Mid-top of shoulder is not where stitches were knitted up for the front piece but approx. 5-6 cm down the front piece).
Use circular needle size 4 mm and start in the middle of the cast-on stitches under the sleeve. Knit up 80-84-88-98-102-106 stitches around the armhole, with the same number of stitches on each side of the marker.
Work stocking stitch in short rows back and forth for the sleeve cap (gives a better fit), starting mid-under the sleeve and working as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): Knit to 10-10-11-11-12-13 stitches past the marker, turn – read KNITTING TIP.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Purl to 10-10-11-11-12-13 stitches past the marker, turn.
ROW 3 (right side): Knit to 4-5-5-4-4-3 stitches past the previous turn, turn.
ROW 4 (wrong side): Purl 4-5-5-4-4-3 stitches past the previous turn, turn.
Repeat ROWS 3 and 4 until you have turned 6-6-6-8-8-10 times on each side.
AFTER FINAL TURN:
The last time you repeat row 4, turn and knit to the beginning of the round (mid-under sleeve).
Insert 1 marker-thread here, which will be used when decreasing under the sleeve. Allow the marker-thread to follow your work onwards.
Continue working stocking stitch and pattern in the round, at the same time, decrease mid under the sleeve, read both sections below and work as follows:
DECREASE:
When the sleeve measures 2 cm (measured mid-under the sleeve), decrease 2 stitches – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2nd round 2-2-2-5-5-5 times, then every 4½-4½-3½-3-2½-2 cm 8-8-9-10-11-12 times = 60-64-66-68-70-72 stitches.
PATTERN:
When sleeve measures 9-9-8-8-8-8 cm from the shoulder mid over sleeve), work pattern as follows: * work A.1 in the round as far as possible to the marker thread mid under sleeve (work the stitches that cannot fit pattern before marker thread in stocking stitch), work 9-9-8-8-8-7 cm stocking stitch*, work from *-* a total of 3 times in height, then work A.1 around the sleeve one more time (= a total of 4 eyelet rounds around the sleeve).
Continue working in stocking stitch until the sleeve measures 43-42-40-40-39-37 cm from the shoulder. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work rib (knit 2, purl 2), AT THE SAME TIME increase 12-12-10-12-14-16 stitches evenly on the first round = 72-76-76-80-84-88 stitches.
When the rib measures 8-8-9-9-9-10 cm, cast off. The sleeve measures approx. 51-50-49-49-48-47 cm from the shoulder.

DOUBLE NECK:
Using circular needle size 3 mm. Starting from the right side on one shoulder line, knit up 116-116-120-124-128-128 stitches around the neckline, inside 1 stitch. The stitch count must be divisible by 4. Work rib in the round (knit 2, purl 2) for 9-9-9-11-11-11 cm. Change to circular needle size 4 mm and cast off a little loosely.
Fold the neck double to the inside and sew down. To avoid the neck being tight and rolling outwards, it is important that the seam is elastic.

This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.

Updated online: 15.03.2024
The pattern has been reviewed and updated. Correction lace pattern sleeves - all sizes.

Diagram

	= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
	= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over which is worked according to the diagram on the next row/round (leaves a hole)
	= knit 2 together
	= slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
	= slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted-together stitches

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
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Comments / Questions (10)

Lila Matz wrote:

Hallo liebes drops Team!\r\nIn welchem Reihenabstand, werden bei den Ärmeln, die Lochreihen gestrickt?\r\nVielen Dank \r\nMartina

22.03.2024 - 20:02

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Matz, A.1 stricken Sie das erste Mal wenn die Ärmel 9 bzw 8 cm misst (siehe Größe), dann stricken Sie jeweils 9-9-8-8-8-7 cm glatt rechts zwischen jedem A.1 - siehe Abschnitt MUSTER. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

02.04.2024 - 08:10

Katie wrote:

Hi, I have some confusion about when to start A.1 on the front piece. For size M both front sides are worked for 11 cm, then 8 rows of increases are done, which by the gauge will get the piece to about 14cm. Then once you join the two front pieces it says to work until it measures 15cm then start A.1. which would mean only another 3 rows. However, in the photo it looks like there’s quite a few more rows between the joining of the front pieces and the beginning of the pattern. Why is that?

19.03.2024 - 21:03

Dear Katie, to get the pattern working on both front and back piece when working them together, you will have to start A.1 after 15 cm in size M; depending on your tension in height you might need more or less row, measure these 15 cm along armhole, from where stitches were picked up for one of the shoulders. Happy knitting!

20.03.2024 - 08:07

Beata wrote:

Dlaczego w opisie rękawa brakuje zaznaczenia, że można go robić z wykorzystaniem A1 (tak jest w,sweterku na zdjęciu)? Mniej więcej, co ile centymetrów należy go robić?

05.03.2024 - 01:24

Witaj Beato, rzeczywiście ta informacja została pominięta. Korekta już została zgłoszona i wkrótce zostanie naniesiona. Prosimy o chwilkę cierpliwości. Pozdrawiamy!

05.03.2024 - 15:55

Eveli wrote: