DROPS Daisy
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g

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DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g

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Get the yarn to make this pattern from 63.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Gentle Wind Cardigan

Knitted jacket in DROPS Daisy and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with stockinette stitch, European/diagonal shoulders, V-neck and I-cord. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 248-4
DROPS Design: Pattern da-001
Yarn group B + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 104-112-120-130-142-152 cm = 41"-44"-47¼"-51¼"-55¾"-59¾"
Full length: 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"-26"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

YARN:
DROPS DAISY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
400-450-450-500-550-600 g color 02, marzipan
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-125-125-150-150-175 g color 56, marzipan

BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTONS NO 629: 4 items in all sizes.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM = US 8: Length 40 cm = 16" and 80 cm = 32".
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 80 cm = 32".
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM = US 8.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need 80 cm = 32" circular needle in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Women Jackets & Cardigans Basic Cardigans assembly free european shoulder stocking stitch top down v-neck

DROPS Daisy
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g

Order

DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 63.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP-1:
INCREASE 1 STITCH TOWARDS THE LEFT - from right side:
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, pick up strand from the front and knit the back loop.
INCREASE 1 STITCH TOWARDS THE RIGHT- from right side:
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, pick up strand from behind, knit the front loop.

INCREASE TIP-2:
INCREASE 1 STITCH TOWARDS THE LEFT - from wrong side:
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, pick up strand from behind and purl the front loop.
INCREASE 1 STITCH TOWARDS THE RIGHT- from wrong side:
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, pick up strand from the front purl the back loop.

LEFT BAND WITH I-CORD:
RIGHT SIDE:
Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1, work 5 garter stitches.
WRONG SIDE:
Work 5 garter stitches, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1.

RIGHT BAND WITH I-CORD:
RIGHT SIDE:
Work 5 garter stitches, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1.
WRONG SIDE:
Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1, work 5 garter stitches.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 5 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together, work to end of row as before. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked 1 cm = ⅜" after the last increase for the V-neck. The other 3 buttonholes are then worked with approx. 9½-9½-10-10-10-10½ cm = 3⅝"-3⅝"-4"-4"-4"-4⅛" between each one.
The bottom buttonhole is worked in the transition between the stockinette stitch and rib.

KNITTING TIP:
When working the short rows, there will be a small hole when the piece is turned – the hole can be closed by tightening the strand or using the German Short rows technique as follows: Slip the first stitch as if to purl, place the strand over the right needle and tighten the strand tightly at the back (this should result in two loops on the needle). These loops are knitted together on the next row.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker-thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker-thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The pattern uses needles of different lengths; start with the length which fits the number of stitches and change when necessary.
Stitches are cast on for the back of the neck, then the back piece is worked back and forth, top down, increasing on each side for the shoulders until the correct number of stitches is reached. The back piece now has slightly diagonal shoulders. Continue working as far as the armholes. The back piece then waits while the front pieces are worked.
The front pieces are worked separately, first the band (which is later sewn to the back neckline). Stitches are then knitted up along the shoulder on the back piece and the front piece is worked down as far as the armholes at the same time as stitches are increased for the neckline.
The front and back pieces are joined and the body continued back and forth with circular needle.
Stitches are knitted up around each armhole. The sleeve cap is worked back and forth with short rows, then the sleeve is continued in the round.
The bands from the front pieces are sewn together (mid-back), then sewn to the neckline.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 30-32-34-36-36-38 stitches with circular needle size 5 MM = US 8 and 1 strand of each quality (2 strands).
ROW 1 (= wrong side): Purl.
ROW 2 (= right side): Read INCREASE TIP-1, knit 3, increase 1 stitch towards the left, knit until there are 3 stitches left, increase 1 towards the right, knit 3.
ROW 3 (= wrong side): Read INCREASE TIP-2, purl 3, increase 1 stitch towards the left, purl until there are 3 stitches left, increase 1 stitch towards the right, purl 3.
Work ROWS 2 and 3 a total of 13-14-14-15-16-18 times (= 26-28-28-30-32-36 worked rows), after the last increase, there are 82-88-90-96-100-110 stitches. Insert 1 marker outermost on one side. The piece is now measured from here!
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!

Continue with stockinette stitch until the piece measures 13-14-14-14-13-14 cm = 5⅛"-5½"-5½"-5½"-5⅛"-5½", from the marker measured along the armhole. Now increase for the armholes.

INCREASE FOR ARMHOLES:
ROW 1 (= right side): Remember INCREASE TIP-1, knit 3, increase 1 stitch towards the left, knit until there are 3 stitches left, increase 1 stitch towards the right, knit 3.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Purl.
Work ROWS 1 and 2 a total of 1-1-2-3-4-4 times (= 2-2-4-6-8-8 worked rows) = 84-90-94-102-108-118 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 14-15-16-17-17-18 cm = 5½"-6"-6¼"-6¾"-6¾"-7", from the marker measured along the armhole, finishing with a row from the right side. Cut the strand, place the stitches on a stitch holder and work the left band and front piece along the left back shoulder as follows.

LEFT BAND:
Cast on 7 stitches with circular needle size 5 MM = US 8 and 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands).
Work LEFT BAND WITH I-CORD – read description above, until the band measures 8-9-9-10-10-10 cm = 3⅛"-3½"-3½"-4"-4"-4", finishing with a row from the wrong side. Now work the left front piece as follows:

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Find the left back shoulder as follows: Lay the back piece flat, right side up, with the stitches on the stitch holder towards you. The left side of the back piece is the left shoulder.
Knit up stitches along the left back shoulder, starting from the right side by the neck and working to the shoulder as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work the 7 band stitches, then knit up 1 stitch in each row along the left back shoulder, inside the outermost stitch (knit up 26-28-28-30-32-36 stitches) = 33-35-35-37-39-43 stitches.
All measurements on the front piece are taken from the knitted-up stitches.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Purl until there are 7 stitches left, work 7 band stitches as before.
ROW 3 (= right side): Work 7 band stitches, knit to end of row.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Purl until there are 7 stitches left, work 7 band stitches.
Repeat ROWS 3 and 4 until the piece measures 7-7-7-7-8-8 cm = 2¾"-2¾"-2¾"-2¾"-3⅛"-3⅛".

OVERVIEW OF THE NEXT SECTION:
Now start to increase for the V-neck. You will also increase for the armhole before the increases for the V-neck are finished. Read both next 2 sections before continuing, so you know when to begin increasing for the armhole.

INCREASE FOR V-NECK:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work 7 band stitches, knit 2, increase 1 stitch towards the left - remember INCREASE TIP-1, knit to end of row.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Purl until there are 7 stitches left, work 7 band stitches.
Work ROWS 1 and 2 a total of 10-11-12-13-13-14 times (= 20-22-24-26-26-28 worked rows).
Then increase as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work 7 band stitches, knit to end of row.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Purl until there are 7 stitches left, work 7 band stitches.
ROW 3 (= right side): Work 7 band stitches, knit 2, increase 1 stitch towards the left - remember INCREASE TIP-1, knit to end of row.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Purl until there are 7 stitches left, work 7 band stitches.
Work ROWS 1 to 4 a total of 5 times (= 20 worked rows) = 15-16-17-18-18-19 increases for V-neck. Continue with stockinette stitch and the bands.

INCREASE FOR ARMHOLE:
AT THE SAME TIME, when the piece measures 23-24-24-24-25-26 cm = 9"-9½"-9½"-9½"-9¾"-10¼", increase for the armhole as follows (remember the increases for V-neck are not finished):
ROW 1 (= right side): Work 7 band stitches, knit until there are 3 stitches left, increase 1 stitch towards the right - remember INCREASE TIP-1, knit 3.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Purl until there are 7 stitches left, work 7 band stitches.
Work ROWS 1 and 2 a total of 1-1-2-3-4-4 times (= 2-2-4-6-8-8 worked rows). When all the increases for V-neck and armhole are finished, there are 49-52-54-58-61-66 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 24-25-26-27-29-30 cm = 9½"-9¾"-10¼"-10⅝"-11⅜"-11¾", from the knitted-up stitches. Finish after a row from the right side.
Cut the strand, place the stitches on a stitch holder and work the right band and front piece along the right back shoulder as follows:

RIGHT BAND:
Cast on 7 stitches with circular needle size 5 MM = US 8 and 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands).
Work RIGHT BAND WITH I-CORD – read description above, until the band measures 8-9-9-10-10-10 cm = 3⅛"-3½"-3½"-4"-4"-4", finishing with a row from the wrong side. Cut the thread and put the stitches on a thread or another needle, it should be worked from the band stitches when knitting up stitches for the right front piece.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Knit up stitches along the right back shoulder, starting from the right side by the shoulder and working towards the neck:
Knit up 1 stitch in each row, inside the outermost stitch (knit up 26-28-28-30-32-36 stitches along the right back shoulder), then work the 7 stitches from the right band as before = 33-35-35-37-39-43 stitches.
All measurements on the front piece are taken from the knitted-up stitches.
ROW 1 (= wrong side): Work 7 band stitches as before, purl to end of row.
ROW 2 (= right side): Knit until there are 7 stitches left, work 7 band stitches.
Repeat ROWS 1 and 2 until the piece measures 7-7-7-7-8-8 cm = 2¾"-2¾"-2¾"-2¾"-3⅛"-3⅛".

OVERVIEW OF THE NEXT SECTION:
Now start to increase for the V-neck. You will also increase for the armhole before the increases for the V-neck are finished. Read both next 2 sections before continuing, so you know when to begin increasing for the armhole.

INCREASE FOR V-NECK:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit until there are 9 stitches left, increase 1 stitch towards the right - remember INCREASE TIP-1, knit 2, work 7 band stitches.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work 7 band stitches, purl to end of row.
Work ROWS 1 and 2 a total of 10-11-12-13-13-14 times (= 20-22-24-26-26-28 worked rows).
Now increase as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit until there are 7 stitches left, work 7 band stitches.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work 7 band stitches, purl to end of row.
ROW 3 (= right side): Knit until there are 9 stitches left, increase 1 stitch towards the right, knit 2, work 7 band stitches.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Work 7 band stitches, purl to end of row.
Work ROWS 1 to 4 a total of 5 times (= 20 worked rows) = 15-16-17-18-18-19 increases for V-neck.
1 cm = ⅜" after the last increase, start working the BUTTONHOLES – read description above.
Continue with stockinette stitch and the bands.

INCREASE FOR ARMHOLE:
AT THE SAME TIME, when the piece measures 23-24-24-24-25-26 cm = 9"-9½"-9½"-9½"-9¾"-10¼", increase for the armhole as follows (remember the increases for V-neck are not finished):
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit 3, increase 1 stitch towards the left – remember INCREASE TIP-1, knit until there are 7 stitches left, work 7 band stitches.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work 7 band stitches, purl to end of row.
Work ROWS 1 and 2 a total of 1-1-2-3-4-4 times (= 2-2-4-6-8-8 worked rows). When all the increases for V-neck and armhole are finished, there are 49-52-54-58-61-66 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 24-25-26-27-29-30 cm = 9½"-9¾"-10¼"-10⅝"-11⅜"-11¾", from the knitted-up stitches. Finish after a row from the right side.
Now join all the pieces for the body as follows:

BODY:
The piece is now measured from here!
Work from the wrong side over the 49-52-54-58-61-66 stitches on the right front piece, cast on 4-6-8-8-12-12 stitches (in side under sleeve), work from the wrong side over the 84-90-94-102-108-118 stitches on the back piece, cast on 4-6-8-8-12-12 stitches (in side under sleeve), work from the wrong side over the 49-52-54-58-61-66 stitches from the left front piece = 190-206-218-234-254-274 stitches. Continue back and forth with stockinette stitch and the bands on each side until the piece measures 28-29-30-31-31-32 cm = 11"-11⅜"-11¾"-12¼"-12¼"-12½" from the armhole.
On the next row from the right side, begin the rib at the same time as you increase 22-22-22-26-26-26 stitches evenly spaced (do not increase over the bands) = 212-228-240-260-280-300 stitches. Work as follows:
Change to circular needle size 4 MM = US 6. Work the band as before, work rib (knit 2, purl 2 – remember the increases) until there are 9 stitches left, knit 2 and work the band stitches as before. When the rib measures 6 cm = 2⅜", bind off. The front piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm = 22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"-26"-26¾" measured from the knitted-up stitches, the jacket measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"-26". The front piece is approx. 2 cm = ¾" longer, as the knitted-up stitches are not on the top of the shoulder but slightly down the back piece.

SLEEVES:
Lay the piece flat and insert 1 marker at the top of the armhole (NOTE! This is not where stitches were knitted up but approx. 5-6 cm = 2"-2⅜" down the front piece = mid-top of shoulder).
Using circular needle size 5 MM = US 8 and 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands), start in the middle of the cast-on stitches under the sleeve and knit up 68-74-80-82-90-94 stitches around the armhole – make sure you have equal numbers of stitches on each side of the marker. Work stockinette stitch in short rows, back and forth for the sleeve cap (to give the sleeve a better fit). Start mid-under the sleeve:

ROW 1 (right side): Work 9-10-10-10-11-11 stitches past the marker, turn – read KNITTING TIP.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Work 9-10-10-10-11-11 stitches past the marker, turn.
ROW 3 (right side): Work 10-11-8-6-5-5 stitches past the previous turn, turn.
ROW 4 (wrong side): Work to 10-11-8-6-5-5 stitches past the previous turn, turn.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until you have turned 3-3-4-5-6-6 times on each side.

AFTER THE LAST TURN:
After row 4 has been worked for the last time, turn and knit to the beginning of the round (mid-under sleeve).
Insert 1 marker-thread here, which is used when decreasing under the sleeve. Allow the thread to follow your work onwards.

Work stockinette stitch in the round.
When the sleeve measures 4-4-5-6-6-6 cm = 1½"-1½"-2"-2⅜"-2⅜"-2⅜", from the knitted-up stitches (all lengths measured mid-top of sleeve), decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2nd round 2-2-3-3-4-4 times, then every 4½-3½-2½-2½-2-1½ cm = 1⅝"-1¼"-1"-1"-¾"-½", 6-8-9-9-11-12 times (a total of 8-10-12-12-15-16 times) = 52-54-56-58-60-62 stitches. Work until the sleeve measures 38-37-38-37-37-35 cm = 15"-14½"-15"-14½"-14½"-13¾".
Change to double pointed needles size 4 MM = US 6. Work rib (knit 2, purl 2) at the same time as you increase 16-18-16-18-20-18 stitches evenly on the first round = 68-72-72-76-80-80 stitches. When the rib measures 10-10-10-10-10-10 cm = 4"-4"-4"-4"-4"-4", bind off. The sleeve measures approx. 48-47-48-47-47-45 cm = 19"-18½"-19"-18½"-18½"-17¾".

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band. Sew together the bands from the front pieces (mid-back), then sewn them to the neckline.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (32)

Patricia Dufourd wrote:

Question : concernant la bordure devant gauche : faut-il d'abord tricoter l'icord sur 9cm et ensuite relever les mailles le long de l'épaule gauche ? ce n'est pas très clair pour moi. Pour tricoter l'icord je n'ai pas trouvé la vidéo sur votre site Merci par avance de votre réponse Cordialement

12.03.2024 - 14:29

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Dufour, vous devez tricoter ces 7 mailles pendant 9 cm comme indiqué au tout début des explications sous BORDURE DEVANT GAUCHE AVEC I-CORD:; autrement dit, 2 m de bordure I-cord + 7 mailles point mousse, vu sur l'endroit. Cette bordure sera ensuite assemblée à celle du devant droit puis cousue le long de l'encolure dos. Après ces 9 cm, vous relevez les mailles le long du devant gauche - cf onglet vidéo pour voir comment relever les mailles et tricoter les devants. Bon tricot!

12.03.2024 - 15:45

Marie Thérèse wrote:

Bonsoir Ma question concerne la référence DROP YOU 8 : est elle abandonnée ? Si oui quelle référence la remplace. Cordialement

23.02.2024 - 22:49

Bonjour Marie-Thérèse, DROPS Loves You 8 faisait partie du groupe de fils C, vous pouvez donc le remplacer par un autre fil du groupe C (cf liste, ou bien par 2 fils du groupe de fils A - plus d'infos ici. Bon tricot!

26.02.2024 - 07:49

Susi wrote:

Ich meinte natürlich die Kombination mit Kid Silk, Garngruppe A, wie angegeben. Nicht Alpaka Silk.

08.02.2024 - 13:28

Warum findet der Garnumrechner keine alternative Option für die Daisy ? Nach Maschenprobe kämen doch auch andere Garne in Gruppe B wie Merino Extrafine oder Karisma , kombiniert mit Alpaka Silk, infrage. Oder nicht ?

08.02.2024 - 13:26

Liebe Susi, danke für den Hinweis, jetzt finden Sie Alternative für Daisy - aber vergessen Sie nicht die Alternative mit Kid-Silk (und nicht Brushed Alpaca Silk) zu stricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

09.02.2024 - 15:47

Gabrielle Herring wrote: