DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 £ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 25.30£. Read more.

Garden Squares Cardigan

Crocheted jacket in DROPS Paris. The piece is worked in squares. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 241-27
DROPS Design: Pattern w-895
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

YARN:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
550-550-600-600-650-650 g colour 17, off white
100-100-100-100-100-100 g colour 05, lilac
50-50-100-100-100-100 g colour 21, mint green
50-50-50-50-100-100 g colour 62, sea green
50-50-100-100-100-100 g colour 100, light wash
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 02, light turquoise
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 09, royal blue
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 11, opal green
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 31, purple
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 39, wasabi
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 61, lime
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 71, tangerine

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5 MM.

CROCHET TENSION:
1 square measures approx. 11 x 11 cm.
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller hook size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 £ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 25.30£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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COLOURS:
Work different combinations for the different squares:

Square 1:
CAST ON + ROUND 1: 02, light turquoise
ROUND 2: 39, wasabi
ROUND 3: 62, sea green
ROUND 4: 17, off white

Square 2:
CAST ON + ROUND 1: 11, opal green
ROUND 2: 17, off white
ROUND 3: 71, tangerine
ROUND 4: 17, off white

Square 3:
CAST ON + ROUND 1: 31, purple
ROUND 2: 21, mint green
ROUND 3: 09, royal blue
ROUND 4: 17, off white

Square 4:
CAST ON + ROUND 1: 05, lilac
ROUND 2: 17, off white
ROUND 3: 02, light turquoise
ROUND 4: 17, off white

Square 5:
CAST ON + ROUND 1: 62, sea green
ROUND 2: 100, light wash
ROUND 3: 21, mint green
ROUND 4: 17, off white

Square 6:
CAST ON + ROUND 1: 100, light wash
ROUND 2: 11, opal green
ROUND 3: 39, wasabi
ROUND 4: 17, off white

Square 7:
CAST ON + ROUND 1: 21, mint green
ROUND 2: 17, off white
ROUND 3: 61, lime
ROUND 4: 17, off white

Square 8:
CAST ON + ROUND 1: 39, wasabi
ROUND 2: 05, lilac
ROUND 3: 100, light wash
ROUND 4: 17, off white

Square 9:
CAST ON + ROUND 1: 100, light wash
ROUND 2: 71, tangerine
ROUND 3: 31, lilac
ROUND 4: 17, off white

Square 10:
CAST ON + ROUND 1: 71, tangerine
ROUND 2: 62, sea green
ROUND 3: 05, lilac
ROUND 4: 17, off white

Square 11:
CAST ON + ROUND 1: 09, royal blue
ROUND 2: 02, light turquoise
ROUND 3: 11, opal green
ROUND 4: 17, off white

Square 12:
CAST ON + ROUND 1: 61, lime
ROUND 2: 31, purple
ROUND 3: 05, lilac
ROUND 4: 17, off white

CHANGING COLOURS:
For a neat transition when changing colours, work the last slip stitch on the round with the new colour.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6. Diagrams A.3 to A.6 show the positioning of the squares.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
First work 68-68-80-80-88-88 squares in the different colour combinations. Then the squares are crocheted together for the different pieces. In sizes S and M treble-crochet groups are worked back and forth along the neck. I sizes M, L, XL, XXL and XXXL a side section is worked on each side.
An edge is worked around the jacket to finish.

SQUARE:
Use crochet hook size 5 mm and DROPS Paris. Read COLOURS and CHANGING COLOURS. Work squares according to diagram A.1 in the different colour combinations. 1 square measures approx. 11 x 11 cm.
REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!

Work 68-68-80-80-88-88 squares as follows:
Square 1: 6-6-6-6-6-6 items
Square 2: 6-6-6-6-6-6 items
Square 3: 6-6-9-9-9-9 items
Square 4: 6-6-7-7-9-9 items
Square 5: 4-4-5-5-7-7 items
Square 6: 6-6-8-8-8-8 items
Square 7: 6-6-6-6-8-8 items
Square 8: 6-6-8-8-8-8 items
Square 9: 6-6-6-6-6-6 items
Square 10: 6-6-6-6-8-8 items
Square 11: 4-4-5-5-5-5 items
Square 12: 6-6-8-8-8-8 items

ASSEMBLY-1:
Lay out the squares as shown in diagram A.3 for the back piece, A.4 for left front piece, A.5 for right front piece (see diagram for your size); make sure all squares are right side up.
The number in the diagram is the square-number in COLOURS. Work the squares together first width-wise then length-wise.
Use hook size 5 mm and colour off white:
Lay 2 squares edge-to-edge. Start in one corner and insert the hook from the right side through the back loop on first the one square then the other, pick up the strand and pull it through both loops on the hook *, work from *-* along 1 side, work 2 chain stitches and repeat from *-* along the next 2 squares. NOTE! Work 1 stitch in each corner and 1 stitch in each treble crochet/chain stitch. Work all squares together width-wise, then length-wise.

In sizes S and M, work treble-crochet groups back and forth along the neck on back piece. This is not done in sizes L, XL, XXL and XXXL, skip the next section in these sizes.

TREBLE-CROCHET GROUPS ALONG NECK ON BACK PIECE IN SIZES S & M:
Work treble-crochet groups back and forth along the neck, so the neck-line is not so deep on back piece. Work stripes, each row from the right side in colour off white and each row from the wrong side in the colour of your choice:
Start in the corner of the first square 7. Work A.2a, A.2b as far as the chain stitches in the corner of square 8, work A.2c in corner-space. NOTE! In the corner between 2 squares work 3 treble crochets around the chain stitches from the first square, 1 chain stitch and 3 treble crochets in the corner on the next square-space = 10 treble-crochets group. Work back and forth according to A.2 for 5 rows. Work 1 row of double crochets along each short-side of the treble-crochet groups as follows: 3 double crochets around each treble crochet/3 chain stitches on the first 4 rows and 1 double crochet around the last treble crochet/3 chain stitches = 13 double crochets on each side. Work this piece together with the squares on each shoulder, work 1 double crochet together with 1 treble crochet/chain stitch from the square on the shoulder. There is 3-4 cm left on each square up to the shoulder. Cut and fasten the strand.

The back and front pieces are now finished in size S; the other sizes a side section is worked back and forth on each side of the back piece and on one side of each front piece:

RIGHT SIDE, BACK PIECE:
SIZES M, L, XL, XXL and XXXL: Work stripes, with each row from the right side in colour off white and from the wrong side in the colour of your choice:
Start in the top corner of 3rd or 4th square from the bottom edge - see star in illustration. Work along the side as follows:
A.2a, A.2b as far as the bottom corner-space, work A.2c in the space, turn. NOTE! In the corners between 2 squares work 3 treble crochets around the chain stitches from the first square, 1 chain stitch and 3 treble crochets in the corner on the next square-space. Work 2-3-5-8-10 rows of A.2, the side section measures approx. 2-4-6-9-12 cm.

LEFT SIDE, BACK PIECE:
Work in the same way as the right side but start from the wrong side so the decreases match on both sides.
The rows from the wrong side are worked in in colour off white and from the right side in the colour of your choice.

SIDE PIECES FRONT PIECES:
Work in the same way on one side of each front piece (see diagrams A.4 and A.5).

SLEEVES:
Lay the squares out as shown in diagram A.6; make sure all squares are right side up.
The number in the diagram is the square-number in COLOURS. Work the squares together first width-wise then length-wise.
Fold the sleeve in the middle and work the sleeve seam (a to b in diagram A.6) leaving 0-2-3-4-9-12 cm at the top. Work the other sleeve seam in the same way but in reverse (the squares at the top of one sleeve will be at the bottom of the other sleeve).

ASSEMBLY:
Lay the back and front pieces together, right side out. Work the sides together in the same way as the squares were worked together. Leave a split of 8-10 cm at the bottom of each side. Attach the sleeves, working first the 0-2-3-4-9-12 cm which were not worked at the top of the side sections, then the sleeves to the armholes (c to d in diagrams A.3 and A.4/A.5)

EDGE:
Start at the bottom of the right front piece with colour off white and hook size 5 mm: Work 1 double crochet around the first chain-space, * 3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around the next chain stitch *, work from *-* around the whole opening, finishing with 3 chain stitches and 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet on the round. Cut and fasten the strands.

TIES:
Work a row of chain stitches, 60 to 80 cm, with hook size 5 mm and colour off white. Cut and fasten the strand. Fold the cord double, thread the loop through the chain-space at the top of the neck on one front piece, thread the 2 ends of the cord through the loop. Repeat on the other front piece.

Diagram

symbols = Start here! Work 4 chain stitches and form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch = point on circle
symbols = 1 chain stitch
symbols = 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round
symbols = 1 treble crochet around chain-stitch ring/chain-space
symbols = 1 treble crochet around the 3 chain-stitches from previous round
symbols = work side sections from here
symbols = this row already worked, start on next row
symbols = start on this row
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (11)

country flag Janne wrote:

Hej Jeg er et spørgsmål mht hvordan firkanterne skal hækles sammen. Der står først på tværs og derefter på langs. Hvad betyder på tværs? Er det vandret eller lodret? Jeg vil jo mene at på langs betyder vandret/horisontalt, men kan ikke forstår at på tværs så skulle betyde lodret, altså fra bunden til toppen af arbejdet?

17.01.2024 - 16:52

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Janne. Her vil jeg mene at på tvers betyr vannrett. Om du forstørrer bildet av jakken så kan du se at det først ble heklet vannrett, deretter loddrett. Man ser det på hjørnene der den loddrette sammen heklingen ligger over den vannrette sammen heklingen. mvh DROPS design

18.01.2024 - 09:25

country flag GENEVIEVE DRUART wrote:

Bonjour, j'adore ce modèle mais je voudrais le réaliser en uni, et en laine ou mélange, pas en coton. Je suppose que le calcul du nombre de pelotes est différent ? Comment faire svp ? Merci d'avance

23.09.2023 - 13:50

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Druart, la quantité va dépendre du métrage - utilisez notre convertisseur pour voir les alternatives possibles et les quantités correspondantes - retrouvez ici quelques explications. Bon crochet!

25.09.2023 - 08:41

country flag Mona Johannessen wrote:

Hvordan skal jeg få festet ermet pent? Ermet har 4 ruter og ermhullet har 4 ruter + de heklede radene i siden.

20.08.2023 - 21:20

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Mona. Ermet hekles inn i ermhullet. Husk å se på diagrammet (c til d på diagram A.3 og A.4/A.5). Strekk litt i ermet om det ikke passer helt inn i ermhullet. mvh DROPS Design

21.08.2023 - 13:36

country flag Kerstin Aronsson wrote:

Har skickat efter Drops Paris till en tröja. Fick hem garnet idag men ett nystan saknas, har bara fått 10 st Paris Natur, färgbad 1682-2,dock står det att 11 är levererade. Order-Id 301856 Mvh Kerstin Aronsson

04.08.2023 - 11:02

country flag Joanne wrote:

I don’t understand the instructions for the side stripes. The instruction says to start in the top corner, but in the photo it starts in the middle of the square. The diagram A2a shows one single treble crochet, but I can’t see where that is in the photo. You also talk about decreases in the instruction and I can see in the photo that the number of clusters decreases along the rows, but do I keep decreasing for each row that I do? Thank you.

07.07.2023 - 13:40

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Joanne, the photo is just an example of the side stripes, it's the stripes in the Top version of this pattern. You should follow the indications in the pattern and not the photograph. It's a sample but it doesn't contain the full instructions, so continue working with the charts, instead of following what is shown in the photograph. There are no decreases either in the jacket; it seems to be a typo from the top version. We will correct it as soon as possible. Happy knitting!

10.07.2023 - 16:04

country flag Van Dyck Alfrida wrote:

Ik vind het patroon A 6 niet voor de mouw

03.06.2023 - 23:01

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Alfrida,

Deze staat onderaan de beschrijving tussen alle andere telpatronen, aan de rechterkant in de tweede rij waar de patronen met de hokjes met cijfers erin staan.

04.06.2023 - 10:45

country flag Brita wrote:

Jag vill virka "Garden Squares Cardigan" men vill byta garn till Drops Muskat. Hur ska jag räkna?

03.06.2023 - 11:07

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Brita. "Garden Squares Cardigan" er heklet i DROPS Paris som tilhører garngruppe C, DROPS Muskat tilhører garngruppe B (Muskat er tynnere enn Paris), slik at oppskriften vil ikke stemme om man bruker et tynnere garn. Du kan evnt tilpasse selv, hekle til rutene måler 11 x 11 cm og stavgrupper i hals/sidene/kant. Da vi ikke har heklet denne i garngruppe B har vi heller ikke den nøyaktige garnmengden. mvh DROPS Design

05.06.2023 - 06:23

country flag Pascaline wrote:

Je suis vraiment folle de ce cardigan. J'aime beaucoup. Est ce qu'il ya moyen de nous faire une vidéo qui montre pas à pas comment faire les "GROUPES DE BRIDES LE LONG DE L'ENCOLURE DOS". Je vous en serais très reconnaissante. Merci d'avance Pascaline

31.05.2023 - 23:23

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Pascaline, vous devez simplement crocheter les diagrammes A.2a (début de rang sur l'endroit, fin de rang sur l'envers), puis répétez A.2b et terminez par A.2c (fin de rang sur l'endroit, début de rang sur l'envers), autrement dit, c'est simplement comme le dernier rang du carré, sauf que vous n'avez pas de coin mais A.2a et A.2c de chaque côté - regardez la 3ème photo, elle montre cette partie, cela devrait pouvoir vous aider. Bon crochet!

01.06.2023 - 09:14

country flag Paula Kraft wrote:

Olkapäät valuu, ei pysy paikoillaan ? miten vois korjata tilanteen ?

29.05.2023 - 20:20

DROPS Design answered:

Hei, on tärkeää, että jakun ympäri virkattava reunus ei virkata liian löyhästi. Halutessasi voit virkata vielä yhden kerroksen kiinteitä silmukoita pääntien ja olkapäiden reunoihin.

01.06.2023 - 16:33

country flag Dea wrote:

Buongiorno, ho difficoltà nella cucitura della manica al corpo della giacca. Non capisco bene la storia dei cm lasciati liberi. Potete dirmi se c'è un video che mostra come fare? Grazie.

24.05.2023 - 09:45

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Dea, al momento non abbiamo un video sulla confezione di questo modello. Deve partire a cucire le maniche dopo i cm indicati; quando poi assembla la giacca si parte da quei cm. Buon lavoro!

28.05.2023 - 21:11