DROPS / 27 / 6

DROPS 27-6 by DROPS Design

DROPS long sweater, shawl, gloves and head band in Karisma Superwash with moss stitch and cables

Size: Size: Small (Medium - Large)

Materials: DROPS Karisma Superwash from Garnstudio
850 (900-950) g colour no 019, natural

DROPS circular needles and double pointed needles sizes 2.5 mm and 4 mm

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 2.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

Knitting tension: 22 sts x 28 rows on needle size 4 mm and M.2. = 10 x 10 cm

Bobble: Inc to 5 sts in 1 sts, knit 3 rows stocking sts on these, then pass 2nd sts over 1st sts, 3rd sts over 1st sts., 4th sts over 1st sts and 5th sts over 1st sts.
Rib: * K1, P1 *

Body: Cast on 210 (213-219) sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm and knit 5 rib rounds. Change to circular needle size 4 mm at the same time inc 46 (57-61) sts evenly on 1st row = 256 (270-280) sts. Knit 1st row as follows: * 1 (5-7) sts of M.2, M.4, 19 sts of M.2, M.4, 19 sts of M.2, M.4, 19 sts of M.2, M.4, 19 sts of M.2, M.4, 1 (4-7) sts of M.2 * - Repeat from *-* over back piece. Remember knitting tension. When piece measures 38 (44-50) cm cast off 1 (2-1) sts on each side for armhole and for and complete front and back pieces separately.

Front piece: = 127 (133-139) sts. When piece measures 55 (61-67) cm cast off 1 sts mid front and then cast off 1 sts x 23 towards neck to shape neckline alternating on every and every other row . Cast off when piece measures 68 (74-80) cm

Back piece: = 127 (133-139) sts. When piece measures 66 (72-78) cm slip middle 43 (43-43) sts onto a thread or stitch holder and then cast off 2 sts towards neck on next row. Cast off when piece measures 68 (74-80) cm.

Sleeve: Cast on 48 (48-51) sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm and knit 5 cm rib. Change to circular needle size 4 mm at the same time inc 20 (20-17) sts evenly on 1st row = 68 (68-68) sts. Knit next row as follows (from mid under arm): M.4, 19 sts of M.2, M.4, 19 sts of M.2, M.4. At the same time inc mid under arm 2 sts x 32 (32-32) on every 3rd row = 132 (132-132) sts – knit the inc sts into M.2. When piece measures 45 (45-44) cm cast off 6 sts mid under arm and continuing cast off 6 sts x 5 times on each side on every other row, then cast off - piece measures approx 49 (49-48) cm.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Pick up 130 sts around neck on double pointed needles size 2.5 with natural and knit 14 cm rib at the same time cast off 6 sts distributed evenly from the picked up sts from thread or stitch holder on back piece = 124 m – ensure sts mid front is a stocking sts. At the same time as 1st row rib knit one bobble on every 6th sts (in one knit) – ensure one bobble is positioned mid front. Continuing cast off on every 3rd row as follows: slip middle sts onto cable needle to front of piece, knit sts before and sts after and psso mid sts over the 2 sts knit tog – cast off when to completed measurement = 14 cm, cast off. Sew sleeves onto body in outermost sts so seams are not too bulky.

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DROPS Shawl, gloves and head band.

Materials: DROPS Karisma Superwash from Garnstudio
550 g colour no 019, natural - shawl
100 g colour no 019, natural - gloves
50 g colour no 019, natural – head band

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DROPS Shawl:

DROPS Needles size 4 mm

Knitting tension: 22 sts x 28 rows on needle size 4 mm and M.2. = 10 x 10 cm
Bobble: Inc to 5 sts in 1 sts, knit 3 rows stocking sts on these, on 5th row pass 2nd sts over 1st sts, 3rd sts over 1st sts., 4th sts over 1st sts and 5th sts over 1st sts.
Moss stitch: 1st row: K1, P1.
2nd row: knit K over P and P over K. Repeat 1st and 2nd rows continuously.
Rib: * K1, P1 *

Body: Cast on 99 sts on needle size 4 mm with natural and knit 3 rows moss stitch. Next row as follows: 3 sts moss stitch , M.1, 20 sts of M.2, M.3, 20 sts of M.2, M.1, 3 sts moss stitch. Continue in pattern until piece measures 2.3 to 2.4 meters – adjust finish with M.3 as started (- When M.3 get wider knit less sts from M.2 on each side) – complete with 3 rows moss stitch over all sts and cast off.
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DROPS Gloves:

DROPS double pointed needle size 3 mm.

Bobble: Inc to 5 sts in 1 sts, knit 3 rows stocking sts on these, then pass 2nd sts over 1st sts, 3rd sts over 1st sts., 4th sts over 1st sts and 5th sts over 1st sts.
Moss stitch: 1.9: K1, P1.
2nd row: knit K over P and P over K. Repeat 1st and 2nd rows continuously.
Rib: * K1, P1 *

Gloves: Cast on 60 (60) on double pointed needles size 3 mm and knit 2 rounds moss stitch then knit following needle as follows: * 4 sts moss stitch, 1 bobble * then 5 cm moss stitch, then 2 cm rib at the same time cast off 18 (16) sts evenly on 1st row = 42 (44) sts. On last row inc 2 (4) sts evenly on row = 44 (48) sts. Then knit following row as follows: 22 (24) sts moss stitch (=upper hand), 1 sts stocking sts for thumb (insert at marking thread or stitch marker), 21 (23) sts stocking sts (=inside hand)- Measure piece from here!
When piece measures 1 cm inc on each side of 1 sts with marking thread or stitch marker for thumb as follows: 1 sts x 5 (6) on every 3rd row = 54 (60) sts – stocking sts the inc sts. Slip middle 11 sts over thumb onto a thread or stitche holder on next row cast on 1 new st over these = 44 (50) sts.
Continue until piece measures 10 (11) cm – Now knit fingers as follows:
Little finger: Pick up 4 (6) sts moss stitch and 4 (5) sts stocking sts and cast on 1 sts between fingers (stocking sts this sts) = 9 (12) sts. Knit 5 (6) cm then knit sts tog two by two, and then pull double thread through sts. Knit 3 rounds over remaining sts before knitting remaining fingers.
Ring finger: Pick up 6 (6) sts moss stitch and 6 (7) sts stocking sts and cast on 1 sts between fingers (stocking sts this sts) = 14 (15) sts. Knit 6 (7) cm then knit sts tog two by two, and then pull double thread through sts.
Middle finger: Like Ring finger but knit 7 (8) cm.
Index finger: Pick up 6 (6) sts moss stitch and 6 (7) sts stocking sts and cast on in sts towards long finger (knit sts stocking sts) = 13 (14) sts. Knit like Ring finger.
Thumb: Pick up 14 (16) sts round thumb (pick up 11 sts from holder and 3 (5) sts in the edge above), and knit 6 (6,5) cm stocking sts, cast off like Ring finger.
Sew a small mattress sts between fingers.
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DROPS Head band:

DROPS needles size 4 mm

Head band:
Cast on 23 sts on needle size 4 mm and knit 1st row as follows: 2 sts moss stitch, M.1, 2 sts moss stitches. Continue until piece measures approx 54 cm (lightly stretched), cast off. Sew tog with mattress sts.

Diagram

= bobble – see pattern
= purl
= knit
= slip 3 sts on cable needle to back of piece, K3, K3 from cable needle
= slip 3 sts on cable needle to front of piece, K3, K3 from cable needle
= slip 2 sts on cable needle to back of piece, K3, K2 from cable needle
= slip 3 sts on cable needle to front of piece, K2, K3 from cable needle


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 27-6) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (14)

Kim 06.01.2020 - 18:43:

Hi I am looking do knit 27-6 pattern in Karisma. The yarn it says is double knit but looking at the picture the wool looks thicker. Please can you confirm?

DROPS Design 07.01.2020 kl. 08:14:

Dear Kim, this pattern is worked in DROPS Karisma - and can be worked with any other yarn group B - read more about alternatives here. Happy knitting!

Jose Bekx 09.11.2019 - 20:57:

Hallo, volgens mij stat er bij de uitleg van de tekens bij patroon m 3 een verkeerde uitleg . het betreft een teken voor 5 steken , maar er staat een uitleg bij van 4 steken. Er staat zet 2 steek op een kabelnaald en brei twee steek rechts. een van beide moet 3 steken zijn , maar ik weet niet welke .

DROPS Design 15.11.2019 kl. 15:05:

Dag Jose,

Dankjewel voor het doorgeven, het is nu aangepast. Veel breiplezier!

Nadia 15.01.2017 - 15:30:

Pour l'étole pardon

Nadia 15.01.2017 - 15:29:

Bonjour Après avoir effectuer le diagramme je ne comprends pas " continuer ainsi jusqu'à 2,3-2,6m"

DROPS Design 16.01.2017 kl. 10:17:

Bonjour Nadia, tricotez les diagrammes ainsi: 3 m au point de riz, M1, 20 m de M2, M3, 20 m de M2, M1, 3m au point de riz - jusqu'à ce que l'ouvrag emesure 2,3 / 2,4 mètres de hauteur totale. Bon tricot!

Melanie Puls 06.10.2016 - 20:09:

Guten Tag, ich habe eine Frage. Die Strickschrift des Diagramms; ist hier Hinreihe und Rückreihe abgebildet, oder nur die Hinreihen. Falls nur die Hinreihen, wie sollen dann die Rückreihen gestrickt werden?? Vielen Dank

DROPS Design 07.10.2016 kl. 08:24:

Liebe Frau Puls, im Diagram sind alle Reihe abgebildet, dh Hin- und Rückreihe. Mehr Erklärungen über Diagramme finden Sie hier.

Rania 25.01.2014 - 01:37:

Bonjour peut on acheter vos modeles tous pres merci

DROPS Design 25.01.2014 kl. 17:01:

Bonjour Rania, n'hésitez pas à vous renseigner auprès des revendeurs DROPS sur les éventuelles possibilités d'acheter un modèle tricoté pour vous. Merci.

Sylvie Lavoie 27.12.2012 - 03:58:

Bonjour, j'ai débuté l'etole et j'ai remarqué que la deuxième torsade se faisait sur un rang envers. Est-ce une erreur, car je n'ai jamais tricoté de torsades sur rang envers. La plupart des motifs de torsades se réalisent sur des rangs endroit.

DROPS Design 29.12.2012 kl. 18:12:

Bonjour Madame Lavoie, toutes les torsades se font bien sur l'endroit. Dans chaque diagramme 1 case = 1m x 1 rang. Dans M1, on fait une torsade aux rangs 5, 13, 21 etc...Dans M3, aux rangs 5, 13, 17 ... Bon tricot !

Sylvie Lavoie 18.12.2012 - 20:41:

Bonjour, On lit les diagrammes de la droite vers la gauche. Est-ce que je dois faire une maille endroit sur l'endroit et 1 maille envers sur l'envers comme la plupart des modèles. Ma question peut vous sembler ridicule, mais je veux vraiment être certaine de le réussir. Je vous enverrai une photo, car il sera dans la teinte Karisma turquoise bleu.

DROPS Design 18.12.2012 kl. 21:01:

Bonjour Madame Lavoie, tous les rangs des points fantaisie sont représentés vus sur l'endroit, ainsi 1 m env sur l'end se tricote à l'end sur l'env, et 1 m end sur l'end se tricote à l'env sur l'env. Sur l'endroit, on lit les diagrammes de droite à gauche, et sur l'envers, de gauche à droite quand on tricote en allers et retours. Bon tricot !

Sylvie Lavoie 11.11.2012 - 03:28:

Bonjour, alors si j'ai bien compris 7 m en suivant M2, M4 c'est 1 m. end., 1 m. env., 1 m. end., 1 m. env, 2 m. env., 1 m. end. et 19 m. en suivant M2, M4, c'est bien 1 m. end., 1 m. env., 1 m. end., 1 m. env., 2 m. env., 6 m. end., 2 m. env., 1 m. end., 1 m. env., 1 m. end et 2 m. env. Ai-je bien compris les informations? J'ai fait venir votre laine des états-Unis et ce sera mon oeuvre d'art. Je vous remercie pour votre aide.

DROPS Design 12.11.2012 kl. 09:30:

Bonjour Madame Lavoie, vous devez tricoter : 7 m en suivant M2 (soit les 4 m du diagramme + 3 m en le reprenant à la 1ère m = répétez au 1er rang : 1 m end, 1 m env, puis les 10 m de M4 telles qu'elles sont dans le diagramme, puis 19 m en suivant M2 = 1 m end, 1 m env sur les 19 m suivantes, puis les 10 m de M4 etc.... Bon tricot !

Sylvie Lavoie 10.11.2012 - 04:21:

*1-5-7 m en suivant M2, M4, 19 m en suivant M2, M4, 19 m de M2, M4, 19 m de M2, M4, 19 m de M2, M4, 1-4-7 m en suivant M2* répéter de *à* pour le dos. Que voulez-vous dire par 1-5-7 et 1-4-7, Je ne comprends pas l'explication. Merci de votre précieuse collaboration. Sylvie Lavoie

DROPS Design 10.11.2012 kl. 09:33:

Bonjour Madame Lavoie, le pull est donné en 3 tailles : S, M et L. Les explications sont ainsi données dans l'ordre des tailles, le nombre de mailles de M2 à tricoter sera de 1 en taille S, 5 en taille M et 7 en taille, puis 1 en taille S, 4 en taille M et 7 en taille L. Bon tricot !

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