DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g

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Forest Embrace

Knitted jumper in DROPS Air. The piece is worked bottom up, with lace pattern, split in the sides and high neck. Sizes S - XXXL.

Highlight Size:

DROPS 237-1

#forestembracesweater

DROPS Design: Pattern ai-403
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-350-350-400-450-500 g colour 30, sage green

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM: Length 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

KNITTING TIP:
When decreasing for the neck, the lace pattern will be affected. Take care to count the yarn overs and decreases in the lace pattern when working the neck so the number of stitches is correct. If the decrease ends up in a symbol which covers 3 stitches, replace this symbol with ‘knit 2 twisted together’. Then keep the one yarn over.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER- SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The sections are worked separately, back and forth with circular needle, bottom up. The piece is sewn together and the neck worked to finish.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 101-111-119-129-141-157 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm and DROPS Air. Purl 1 row from the wrong side.
Work as follows from the right side: 1 stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, work A.1 until there are 2 stitches left, work the first stitch in A.1 (so the pattern is symmetrical) and 1 stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this rib for 8-8-8-10-10-10 cm – finish after a row from the wrong side.
Knit 1 row and decrease 20-22-24-26-28-32 stitches evenly spaced = 81-89-95-103-113-125 stitches. Cast on 1 stitch at the end of the row.
Change to circular needle size 5 mm, purl 1 row from the wrong side and cast on 1 stitch at the end of the row = 83-91-97-105-115-127 stitches.
Work pattern as follows: 1 stitch in garter stitch, 3-7-10-9-9-15 stitches in stocking stitch, A.2, work A.3 4-4-4-5-6-6 times, A.4, then 3-7-10-9-9-15 stitches in stocking stitch and 1 stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this pattern. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When the piece measures 33-34-35-36-37-38 cm, cast off 3-5-6-7-8-11 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows for the armholes = 77-81-85-91-99-105 stitches.
Continue the pattern, with 1-3-5-3-2-5 stitches in stocking stitch on each side.
NOTE: Stop working the lace pattern after a complete repeat in height, when the piece is nearly finished (see measurement chart), continue with stocking stitch to finished length.

When the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm, cast off the middle 27-29-29-31-31-33 stitches for the neck and finish each shoulder separately – read KNITTING TIP (if you haven’t already finished the lace pattern).
Cast off 1 stitch on the next row from the neck = 24-25-27-29-33-35 stitches on the shoulder. Work until the piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm. Cast off. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work in the same way as the back until the front piece measures 45-47-48-50-51-53 cm.
Place the middle 15-17-17-19-19-21 stitches on a thread for the neck and finish each shoulder separately.
NOTE: Stop working the lace pattern after a complete repeat in height, when the piece is nearly finished (in the same way as the back), continue with stocking stitch to finished length.
Cast off at the beginning of each row from the neck as follows – remember KNITTING TIP: 2 stitches 2 times and 1 stitch 3 times = 24-25-27-29-33-35 stitches on the shoulder. Work until the piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm.
Cast off. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

SLEEVES:
Cast on 56-58-60-64-66-66 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm and DROPS Air. Purl 1 row from the wrong side.
Work as follows from the right side: 1 stitch in garter stitch, work A.1 until there are 2 stitches left, work the first stitch in A.1 (so the pattern is symmetrical) and 1 stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this rib for 10-10-10-12-12-12 cm – finish after a row from the wrong side.
Knit 1 row and decrease 10-10-10-12-12-12 stitches evenly spaced = 46-48-50-52-54-54 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5 mm. Work stocking stitch with 1 stitch in garter stitch on each side.
When the sleeve measures 12-13-11-13-15-15 cm from the cast-on edge, increase 1 stitch each side on the next row from the right side (increase by making 1 yarn over inside the 2 outermost stitches on each side – on the next row purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes).
Increase like this every 3½-3-3-2½-2-1½ cm a total of 10-11-12-12-13-15 times = 66-70-74-76-80-84 stitches.
When the sleeve measures 47-47-46-44-43-40 cm, insert 1 marker in each side – they mark the bottom of the armholes.
Continue working until the sleeve measures 49-49-49-48-47-46 cm. Cast off a little loosely. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in the sleeves and sew the bottom of the armholes – The markers on the sleeves should match the sides of the body – see sketch.
Sew the sleeve and side seams in one go, inside the 1 edge stitch, down to where the new stitches were cast on in each side (8-8-8-10-10-10 cm split).

HIGH NECK:
Knit up 70 to 86 stitches around the neck (including the stitches on the thread in front) with short circular needle size 3.5 mm. Knit 1 round and increase evenly to 90-92-94-98-100-108 stitches. Work A.1 in the round for 14-14-15-15-16-16 cm – or to desired length. Loosely cast off.
You can fold the neck to the inside if you wish and fasten with a stitch at each shoulder seam.

This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.

Updated online: 13.09.2022
Correction number of stitches: Back piece: ... Work pattern as follows: 1 stitch in garter stitch, 3-7-10-9-9-15 stitches in stocking stitch, A.2, work A.3 4-4-4-5-6-6 times, A.4, then 3-7-10-9-9-15 stitches in stocking stitch and 1 stitch in garter stitch.

Diagram

	= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
	= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted-together stitches – read KNITTING TIP in the explanations
	= knit twisted from right side, purl twisted from wrong side
	= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
	= sleeve cap is sewn to armhole: a to A and b to B

© 1982-2025 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Forest Embrace

Sonja, Germany

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Dominique, Belgium

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Astrid, Sweden

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Laura, France

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Cris, Portugal

Forest Embrace

Sonja, Germany

Forest Embrace

Dominique, Belgium

Forest Embrace

Astrid, Sweden

Forest Embrace

Laura, France

Forest Embrace

Cris, Portugal

Comments / Questions (55)

Sheila Lebleu wrote:

Ja ik heb daar rekening mee gehouden. Misschien ligt het aan de manier van innaaien? Ik volg de instructies van jullie video. Ik heb trouwens alle panden nog eens nagemeten en alle afmetingen kloppen. Vreemd.

01.01.2025 - 18:03

Deze trui heb ik in tricot gebreid. Alle stukken zijn af maar bij het aan elkaar naaien merkte ik dat de mouwkoppen 3 cm te SMAL zijn. Wat nu?

28.12.2024 - 09:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Sheila,

Heb je er rekening mee gehouden dat er een stukje van de zijnaad van de mouw als het ware in het pand wordt geschoven? Zie ook de tekening helemaal onderaan.

01.01.2025 - 16:24

Sheila wrote:

Deze trui heb ik in tricot gebreid. Alle stukken zijn af maar bij het aan elkaar naaien merkte ik dat de mouwkoppen 3 cm te kort zijn. Wat nu?

23.12.2024 - 16:08

Giuseppina wrote:

Molto intricate le spiegazioni, ma usate i 2 ferri vi siete fissati con i circolari

30.10.2024 - 20:10

Buongiorno Giuseppina, i ferri circolari sono utilizzati in tutto il mondo e rendono il lavoro molto più semplice. Se dovesse aver bisogno di un aiuto durante la lavorazione compili il form in fondo alla pagina. Buon lavoro!

02.11.2024 - 12:00

Tina wrote:

Buongiorno, vorrei sapere se posso sostituire i ferri circolari con i ferri dritti.

21.10.2024 - 08:27

Buonasera Tina, questo è un modello lavorato in piano fino al collo, quindi per la maggior parte del lavoro può utilizzare anche i ferri dritti. Buon lavoro!

21.10.2024 - 22:54

Sandra wrote:

Buongiorno vorrei porre questa domanda: nel bordo di inizio se lavoro sia sul dritto che sul rovescio un dritto ritorto e un rovescio semplice risulterà diverso se lavoro sul dritto un dritto ritorto e un rovescio semplice e sul rovescio un rovescio ritorto e un dritto semplice? Spero sia chiara la mia domanda.. grazie mille

07.10.2024 - 17:40

Buonasera Sandra, se cambia la lavorazione cambierà anche l'effetto finale, deve scegliere quello che preferisce. Buon lavoro!

08.10.2024 - 22:22

Buongiorno volevo sapere se è possibile lavorare il dietro tutto a maglia rasata e il punto traforato solo sul davanti.. in tal caso se è possibile avere le istruzioni .. sono una principiante e mi piace talmente tanto questo maglione che lo voglio fare a tutti i costi. Grazie per la vostra risposta!

04.09.2024 - 15:45

Buonasera Sandra, può procedere a maglia rasata sul dietro, ma in questa sede non ci è possibile riscrivere le spiegazioni, ma può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia per un'assistenza più personalizzata. Buon lavoro!

06.09.2024 - 23:33

Adriana wrote:

Thank you very much for your quick answer and thorough explanation. I really appreciate it. Adriana

25.08.2024 - 23:47

Hello :) I will be knitting this sweater for my cousin in size S. She's tall, though, so the actual length of the sweater according to the pattern here is not suitable for her. She needs sweater body to be about 15 cm longer than size S, and the sleeves need to be about 11 cm longer than size S as well. My question is, how do I calculate the additional amount of yarn for the extra length, all other things remaining equal? Thank you in advance, Adriana

25.08.2024 - 20:11

Dear Adriana, this piece is worked from the bottom up so you should lengthen the piece after the initial rib and before you cast off for the armholes; check this section and try it right under your arm until it reaches the desired length and then cast off for the armholes. In the sleeves, lengthen it after the rib and initial decrease but before you start increasing. You may need around 3 balls of yarn; if you have a local shop you can ask them for help and they may be able to advise you or save you extra balls in case you need them. Happy knitting!

25.08.2024 - 23:28

Ellen Pedersen wrote:

Vedr. drops 237-1, model at-403 Hvilken pindestr. Skal bruges for at kontrollere strikkefasthed.

18.06.2024 - 14:06

Hei Ellen. Strikkefastheten som er oppgitt er i glattstrikk, vi har brukt pinne str. 5,5. Pinne str. 3,5 er kun brukt til vrangbord. mvh DROPS Design

25.06.2024 - 06:49

Forest Embrace

Knitted jumper in DROPS Air. The piece is worked bottom up, with lace pattern, split in the sides and high neck. Sizes S - XXXL.

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Pattern instructions

Diagram

How to read a size chart

How to read knitting diagrams

How to measure the knitting tension and how to calculate a pattern

How to increase/decrease evenly!

How to change yarns or yarn amounts

How can I get help with a DROPS pattern?

How to choose yarn

How to cast on

How to knit stitches

How to work purl stitches

How to decrease stitches

How to cast off from the right side

How to cast off from the wrong side

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS 237-1

Comments / Questions (55)

Forest Embrace

Knitted jumper in DROPS Air. The piece is worked bottom up, with lace pattern, split in the sides and high neck. Sizes S - XXXL.

Diagram explanations

Do you need help with this pattern?

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	DROPS Air mix 65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool	4.80 £ /50g	Order
	DROPS Air uni colour 65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool	4.80 £ /50g	Order

	DROPS Air mix 65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool 4.80 £ /50g Order
	DROPS Air uni colour 65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool 4.80 £ /50g Order