DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 33.60£. Read more.

Merry Santas

Knitted Christmas jumper and hat for children in DROPS Air. The jumper is worked top down with round yoke and Santa pattern. The hat is worked in the round, bottom up. Sizes 2 - 14 years. Theme: Christmas.

DROPS Children 41-1
DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-026-bn
Yarn group C or A + A
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JUMPER:

SIZES:
2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 - 13/14 years
Children’s height in cm:
92 - 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152 - 158/164

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
150-150-150-200-200-200-200 g colour 04, medium grey
50-50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 01, off white
50-50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 02, wheat
50-50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 25, raspberry
50-50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 31, black

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM: Length 40 cm and 60 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 40 cm and 60 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.


HAT:

SIZES:
2/4 – 5/6 – 7/8 – 10/12 – 13/14 years
Fits head size: 50/52 – 52/53 – 53/54 – 54/55 – 55/56 cm
Length: Approx. 50-52-54-56-58 cm

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
50-50-100-100-100 g colour 25, raspberry
50-50-50-50-50 g colour 04, medium grey

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM: Length 40 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: Length 40 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
18 stitches in width and 23 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Magic loop – See the technique here
Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 33.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 60 stitches), and divide by the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 6) = 10. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after each 10th stitch. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. When decreasing, knit together each 9th and 10th stitch.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Choose the diagram for your size. The pattern is worked in stocking stitch.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the garment losing its elasticity when working pattern, it is important that the strands at the back are not tight. Use a larger size needle when working pattern if the piece becomes tight.

DECREASE TIP-2 (for sleeves): 
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

DECREASE TIP-3 (for hat):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased). Repeat at each marker.

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as casting off; the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, from mid back and top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body is continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked with double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 60-64-64-68-68-72-76 stitches with double pointed needles/short circular needle size 4 mm and medium grey DROPS Air. Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (knit 2, purl 2) for 3 cm. Change to circular needle size 5 mm.

YOKE:
Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round; the yoke is measured from this marker! Knit 1 round where you increase 6-8-14-10-16-12-14 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 66-72-78-78-84-84-90 stitches.
Now work according to diagram A.1 (= 11-12-13-13-14-14-15 repeats of 6 stitches). NOTE! Choose diagram for your size. Read KNITTING TIP!
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When A.1 is finished in height there are 176-192-208-208-224-224-240 stitches. Knit 1 round with medium grey where you decrease 4-8-12-8-12-4-8 stitches evenly spaced = 172-184-196-200-212-220-232 stitches.
Continue with stocking stitch and medium grey until the yoke measures 15-15-16-17-18-19-20 cm from the marker.

Now divide for the body and sleeves:
Knit 25-27-29-30-32-33-34 (= half back piece), place the next 36-38-40-40-42-44-48 stitches on 1 thread, cast on 6 stitches (= in side under sleeve), knit 50-54-58-60-64-66-68 (= front piece), place the next 36-38-40-40-42-44-48 stitches on 1 thread, cast on 6 stitches (= in side under sleeve), knit the last 25-27-29-30-32-33-34 stitches (= half back piece). The body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
There are now 112-120-128-132-140-144-148 stitches on needle. Continue in the round with stocking stitch and medium grey for 16-20-23-25-26-27-28 cm (or to desired length; there is approx. 3-3-3-4-4-4-4 cm left to finished length). Change to circular needle size 4 mm. Work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 3-3-3-4-4-4-4 cm. Loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – CASTING-OFF TIP. Cut and fasten the strand. The jumper measures approx. 36-40-44-48-50-52-54 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVES:
Place the 36-38-40-40-42-44-48 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 42-44-46-46-48-50-54 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 6 stitches under the sleeve. Allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing under the sleeve.
Start at the marker thread and work stocking stitch in the round, with medium grey, for 3 cm. Now decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease like this every 3-5-6-7-8-9-10 cm a total of 4 times = 34-36-38-38-40-42-46 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 15-20-24-26-30-34-37 cm from the division. There is approx. 3-3-3-4-4-4-4 cm left to finished length; try the jumper on and work to desired length. Knit 1 round where you increase 6-4-6-6-4-6-2 stitches evenly spaced = 40-40-44-44-44-48-48 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm. Work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 3-3-3-4-4-4-4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember CASTING-OFF TIP! The sleeve measures approx. 18-23-27-30-34-38-41 cm from the division.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

KNOT:
Make a knot at the top of each Santa hat. Cut 2 strands off-white, each 10 cm long. Put the strands together and thread them through the top off-white stitch on the hat, with both ends on the right side. Tie a knot, then another knot but in the opposite direction – see sketch. Cut the strands leaving ½ cm ends. Repeat at the top of each Santa hat.

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HAT – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked with circular needle, in the round and bottom up. Change to double pointed needles when necessary, after decreasing stitches at the top.

HAT:
Cast on 96-100-104-108-112 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm and medium grey DROPS Air. Purl 1 round. Then work rib in the round (knit 2, purl 2) for 4-5-5-6-6 cm.
Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm and knit 1 round where you decrease 12-12-12-12-12 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 84-88-92-96-100 stitches.
Change to raspberry and continue with stocking stitch.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When the piece measures 18-19-19-19-20 cm from the cast-on edge, decrease 0-4-2-0-4 stitches evenly spaced = 84-84-90-96-96 stitches.
Insert 6 markers with 14-14-15-16-16 stitches between each one. On the next round decrease 1 stitch before each marker – read DECREASE TIP-3 (= 6 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 2nd round a total of 2-2-2-3-3 times. Then every 6th-7th-7th-7th-7th round 10-10-11-11-11 times = 12 stitches.
Work until the hat measures 50-52-54-56-58 cm, then knit all stitches together 2 and 2 = 6 stitches.
Cut the strand and pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well.

POM-POM:
Make a pom-pom of 5 cm in diameter with medium grey. Sew it to the top of the hat.

Diagram

symbols = medium grey
symbols = off white
symbols = raspberry
symbols = wheat
symbols = black
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on the next round work the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS Children 41-1

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Comments / Questions (22)

country flag Lucas wrote:

Pourquoi le téléchargement des explications est impossible ? J ai comme message "erreur" alors que tout se passe bien avec d'autres modèles.

10.12.2023 - 21:28

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Lucas, nos modèles peuvent seulement être imprimés, cliquez sur le bouton "imprimer / explications" pour ouvrir une fenêtre de dialogue avec votre imprimante et ainsi choisir vos réglages. Bon tricot!

11.12.2023 - 09:32

country flag Hanne Kjærgaard wrote:

Er der ikke en fejl i opskriften? Jeg strikker str 3/4 og skal efter mønsterrappprten have 192 masker (det har jeg) og tage 8 m ud. Så har jeg 200. Men i opskrift står der, jeg har 184. Det er str 7-8 der har 200 m. Det går jo så i ged når jeg skal sætte af til ærmer. Suk!

03.11.2023 - 16:54

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Hanne, du skal tage 8 masker ind (ikke ud) så du har 184 masker :)

09.11.2023 - 15:00

country flag Marianne Schäfer wrote:

Ich bin totale Stickanfängerin und frage Sie, ob der wunderschöne Pullover mit Wintermotiv “, Weihnachtspullover und passende Zipfelmütze“ auch eine Strickanleitung Reihe für Reihe in der Größe 104-110 für absolute Strickanfänger gibt. Ich verstehe leider ihre vorgeschlagene Anleitung nicht und kann sie nicht umsetzen. Für Ihre Hilfe möchte ich mich ganz herzlich bedanken.

17.10.2023 - 22:04

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Schäfer, dieses Modell wurde in entweder 3/4 Jahre (= 98/104) oder 5/6 Jahre (= 110-116) entworfen, hier lesen Sie aber mehr, wie Sie die Grösse wählen könnnen. Dieser Pullover war ein von unseren DROPS-Along, hier lesen Sie mehr mit Fotos fast Schritt nach Schritt, sicher kann das Ihnen helfen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

18.10.2023 - 08:21

country flag Inken wrote:

Moin! Ich habe eine Frage zu den Ärmeln. Im Text steht:In dieser Weise alle 3-5-6-7-8-9-10 cm insgesamt 4 x in der Höhe abnehmen (für alle Größen) = 34-36-38-38-40-42-46 Maschen übrig. Ohne Abnahmen weiterstricken, bis der Ärmel eine Länge von 15-20-24-26-30-34-37 cm ab der Teilung hat. Die letzten 3 Maße stimmen nicht. Z.B. soll ich 4x alle 8cm Maschen abnehmen. Das sind 32cm, doch im Text steht was von 30cm. Können sie mich aufklären? Grüße

29.08.2023 - 01:50

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Inken, die 1. Abnahme wird nach 3 cm gestrickt, die 2. Abnahme nach 11 cm (8 cm danach), die 3. Abnahme nach 19 cm (8 cm danach) und die 4. cm nach 27 cm (8 cm danach), dann stricken Sie noch 3 cm bis die Ärmel 30 cm misst. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

29.08.2023 - 09:17

country flag Caroline wrote:

Hoe kan ik terugvinden hoeveel wol ik moet bestellen voor een specifieke maat of hoogte van een kind?

21.08.2023 - 19:28

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Caroline,

Bovenaan bij de materialenlijst bij elk patroon staat per maat aangegeven hoeveel gram je nodig hebt. (Het eerste getal geldt voor de kleinste, het tweede getal voor de daaropvolgende maat, enzovoort). 1 bol weegt 50 gram, dus als er bijvoorbeeld 400 gram staat heb je 8 bollen nodig.

22.08.2023 - 20:12

country flag Irene Jensen wrote:

Mønstret med de hvide snefnug forskyder sig når men tager masker ud på bærestykket, vil det også være tilfældet med nisserne ?

29.10.2022 - 20:15

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Irene. Om du ser på diagrammet i den størrelsen du strikker vil du se at der det er økninger kan det være 1 maske forskjell på siden av nissen. Men dette er jevnt over, slik at det ikke blir forskjell fra nisse til nisse. mvh DROPS Design

31.10.2022 - 12:00

country flag Ulla Hansen wrote:

Hvordan gør jeg hvis jeg vil strikke en 1.5 årige str? Skipper en mønter i h er række f.eks ? Og selvfølgelig lidt mindre masker Mvh Ulla

29.10.2022 - 09:23

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Ulla. Ja, du kan prøve med 1 rapport mindre av diagrammet (regn ut hvor mange cm mindre det vil blir) og legg opp færre masker. Sammenlign gjerne med en annen lignende genser i samme garngruppe som DROPS Air (garngruppe C) og regn ut. Design avd. har dessverre ikke mulighet til å omregne oppskrifter til alle som ønsker det. mvh DROPS Design

31.10.2022 - 11:25

country flag Jane Dunst wrote:

Bonjour, Je voudrais tricoter ce pull en taille 3/4 ans, pourriez vous m\'indiquer les quantités à commander en qualité ALASKA ou BIG MERINO ? Merci beaucoup pour votre aide !

23.03.2022 - 16:07

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Dunst, utilisez notre convertisseur pour chacune de ces 2 laines, vous pourrez ainsi avoir la quantité nécessaire dans chaque couleur pour la taille souhaitée. Bon tricot!

23.03.2022 - 16:29

country flag Jeannette wrote:

I do not understand this pattern and your pattern tutorial does not describe this kind of motif in the round. If I am making the smallest size starting with 66 stitches divided evenly (11 stitches) I have way more stitches than the pattern starts with. Where do the extra stitches go? There are 10 increases plus the initial 11 stitches is 21 stitches in each section not 16. I really want to learn how to do this.

13.12.2021 - 21:52

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jeannette, the diagram is read bottom up, ie you start with 11 repeats of 6 stitches each (= 6x 11 = 66 sts), and increase as shown in diagram (see last symbol under diagram key); when diagram is done, there are 16 sts in each repeat x 11 repeats = 176 sts. Can this help?

14.12.2021 - 07:45

country flag Sylvia wrote:

Why are so many sweaters of this type so TIGHT in the armpit region? I hated this as a kid. Really. And with all of your beautiful designs, it makes me want to cry!

09.12.2021 - 05:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sylvia, our patterns are not tight, check measurements from chart compared to a similar garment that the person likes; read more about charts here - and always remember to check and keep the correct tension in height to avoid tighter measurements/shorter yoke - read more about tension here. Happy knitting!

09.12.2021 - 08:36