Diamond Fire |
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Knitted sweater in DROPS Alpaca or DROPS BabyMerino. The piece is worked top down with double neck, saddle shoulders, split in the sides and cables. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS 228-6 |
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------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN: ------------------------------------------------------- RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth): Knit all rows. 1 ridge = knit 2 rows. PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.1). INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced): To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 120 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 26) = 4.6. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 4th and 5th stitch. On the next round/row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. INCREASE TIP-2: AFTER MARKER: The new stitch twists to the left. Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous round, pick up the front strand and knit in the back loop. BEFORE MARKER: The new stitch twists to the right. Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous round, pick up the back strand and knit in the front loop. DECREASE TIP (for sleeves): Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (2 stitches decreased). BINDING-OFF TIP: To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 6th stitch at the same time as binding off; the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches. ------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ------------------------------------------------------- SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, from the right shoulder and top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body is continued in the round with circular needle as far as the split, then the front and back pieces are finished separately, back and forth. The sleeves are worked with double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down. DOUBLE NECK: Loosely cast on 120-124-130-134-138-146 stitches with short circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5 and DROPS Alpaca or DROPS Baby Merino. Knit 1 round. Change to short circular needle size 2.5 MM = US 1.5 and work rib in the round (knit 1 twisted, purl 1) for 9 cm = 3½". When the rib is finished, knit 1 round where you increase 26-26-24-24-24-20 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 146-150-154-158-162-166 stitches. YOKE: Change to circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5. Insert 4 markers as follows, without working the stitches and inserted between 2 stitches. These markers are used when increasing for the shoulders. Marker 1: Insert the marker in the beginning of the round, before the first stitch (= transition between back piece and right sleeve). All following rounds start by this marker. Marker 2: Count 30-30-30-34-34-34 stitches from marker 1 (= shoulder), insert the marker before the next stitch. Marker 3: Count 43-45-47-45-47-49 stitches from marker 2 (= front piece), insert the marker before the next stitch. Marker 4: Count 30-30-30-34-34-34 stitches from marker 3 (= shoulder), insert the marker before the next stitch. There are 43-45-47-45-47-49 stitches left on the back piece after marker 4. Allow these markers to follow your work onwards; they are used when increasing for the shoulders. INCREASES TO SADDLE SHOULDERS: You will now work pattern at the same time as increasing for the saddle shoulders. Read the whole section before continuing! REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! FIRST ROUND: Work A.1 as far as marker 2 (= 30-30-30-34-34-34 stitches), increase AFTER marker 2– read INCREASE TIP-2, work stockinette stitch as far as marker 3, increase BEFORE marker 3, work A.1 as far as marker 4 (= 30-30-30-34-34-34 stitches), increase AFTER marker 4, work stockinette stitch as far as marker 1, increase BEFORE marker 1. 4 stitches have been increased for the shoulders – the increases are on the front and back pieces; the number of shoulder stitches remains the same. The increased stitches are worked in stockinette stitch. Continue the pattern and increase like this every round a total of 24-26-28-32-34-36 times = 242-254-266-286-298-310 stitches. There are 91-97-103-109-115-121 stitches on the front and back pieces and 30-30-30-34-34-34 stitches on each shoulder. The piece measures approx. 8-8-9-10-11-11 cm = 3⅛"-3⅛"-3½"-4"-4⅜"-4⅜" from the marker on the neck. INCREASES TO SLEEVES: Move each marker so they sit between 2 stitches shown by the arrows in A.1 (= 2 markers on each shoulder). In addition, insert a marker thread at the beginning of the round; marks the beginning of the round since marker 1 has been moved. FIRST ROUND: Work A.2 (= 8 stitches – A.2 continues over the cable in A.1), increase AFTER marker 1, work stockinette stitch as far as marker 2, increase BEFORE marker 2, work A.3 (= 8 stitches – A.3 continues over the cable in A.1), work 1-4-1-4-1-4 stitches in stockinette stitch, A.4A (= 9 stitches), work A.4B over the next 72-72-84-84-96-96 stitches (= 6-6-7-7-8-8 repeats of 12 stitches), work A.4C (= 8 stitches), work 1-4-1-4-1-4 stitches in stockinette stitch, work A.2 (= 8 stitches – A.2 continues over the cable in A.1), increase AFTER marker 3, work stockinette stitch as far as marker 4, increase BEFORE marker 4, work A.3 (= 8 stitches – A.3 continues over the cable in A.1), work 1-4-1-4-1-4 stitches in stockinette stitch, A.4A (= 9 stitches), A.4B over the next 72-72-84-84-96-96 stitches (= 6-6-7-7-8-8 repeats of 12 stitches), A.4C (= 8 stitches) and work 1-4-1-4-1-4 stitches in stockinette stitch. You have increased 4 stitches for the sleeves; the number of stitches on the front and back pieces remains the same. The increased stitches are worked in stockinette stitch. Continue the pattern and increase like this every round a total of 9-8-9-6-11-6 times = 278-286-302-310-342-334 stitches. The piece measures approx 10-11-12-12-14-13 cm = 4"-4⅜"-4¾"-4¾"-5½"-5⅛" from the marker on the neck. INCREASES TO YOKE: Move the 4 markers so they sit in the middle of each A.2 and A.3. On the next round increase 8 stitches as before, but just before and just after each A.2 and A.3 (increase 1 stitch when 4 stitches remain before each marker and increase 1 stitch 4 stitches after each marker). You are now increasing on the front and back pieces as well as the sleeves; the increased stitches are worked in stockinette stitch. Increase like this every 2nd round a total of 9-12-14-18-18-23 times = 350-382-414-454-486-518 stitches. When all the increases are finished, the piece measures approx. 16-18-20-23-25-28 cm = 6¼"-7"-8"-9"-9¾"-11" from the neck. Continue working without further increases until the piece measures 20-22-24-25-27-29 cm = 8"-8¾"-9½"-9¾"-10⅝"-11⅜" for the neck – AT THE SAME TIME, on the last round decrease 8 stitches on the round by decreasing 2 stitches in each A.2/A.3 (knit together the 4 stitches in the cable 2 and 2) = 342-374-406-446-478-510 stitches. Divide for the body and sleeves on the next round as follows: Start 3-4-5-6-3-5 stitches before A.2 at the beginning of the round, place the next 68-74-82-90-94-98 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches (= in side under sleeve), work as before over the next 103-113-121-133-145-157 stitches (= front piece), place the next 68-74-82-90-94-98 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches (= in side under sleeve) and work the last 103-113-121-133-145-157 stitches as before (= back piece). The body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! BODY: = 222-242-262-286-314-338 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches cast on under each sleeve = 111-121-131-143-157-169 stitches between the threads. Allow the marker threads to follow your work onwards – they will later mark the split in each side. Work the first round as follows: 11-16-15-21-22-28 stitches in stockinette stitch, continue A.4 over the next 89-89-101-101-113-113 stitches, 22-32-30-42-44-56 stitches in stockinette stitch (marker thread sits in the middle of these stitches), continue A.4 over the next 89-89-101-101-113-113 stitches, 11-16-15-21-22-28 stitches in stockinette stitch. Continue this pattern in the round until A.4 has been worked 4-4-4-4-4-5 times in height, then work the first round in A.4. The piece measures approx. 33-33-34-35-36-42 cm = 13"-13"-13⅜"-13¾"-14¼"-16½" from after the neck. Continue with stockinette stitch over all stitches until the piece measures 19 cm = 7½" from the division. There is 10 cm = 4" left to finished length; try the sweater on and work to desired length. Now divide the piece for the split in each side. Keep the first 111-121-131-143-157-169 stitches on the needle (= front piece). Place the other stitches on a thread or extra needle. FRONT PIECE: = 111-121-131-143-157-169 stitches. To avoid the following rib being tight, knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 34-36-40-42-48-50 stitches evenly spaced – remember INCREASE TIP -1 = 145-157-171-185-205-219 stitches. Change to circular needle size 2.5 MM = US 1.5 and work rib as follows: ROW 1 (wrong side): 3 edge stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * purl 1 twisted, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 4 stitches left, purl 1 twisted and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. ROW 2 (right side): 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, * knit 1 twisted, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 4 stitches left, knit 1 twisted and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. Repeat rows 1 and 2 until the rib measures 10 cm = 4". Bind off from the right side with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl – read BINDING-OFF TIP! The sweater measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21¼"-22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼" from the shoulder down. BACK PIECE: Place the 111-121-131-143-157-169 stitches from the thread/extra needle back on circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5. Knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 34-36-40-42-48-50 stitches evenly spaced – remember INCREASE TIP-1 = 145-157-171-185-205-219 stitches. Change to circular needle size 2.5 MM = US 1.5 and work rib as follows: ROW 1 (wrong side): 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1 twisted, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 4 stitches left, purl 1 twisted and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. ROW 2 (right side): 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, * knit 1 twisted, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 4 stitches left, knit 1 twisted and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. Repeat rows 1 and 2 until the rib measures 10 cm = 4". Bind off from the right side with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl – remember BINDING-OFF TIP! SLEEVES: Place the 68-74-82-90-94-98 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 76-82-92-100-106-110 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve. Allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing under the sleeve. Start at the marker thread and work stockinette stitch in the round. When the piece measures 2 cm = ¾" from the division, decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 1½ cm = ½" a total of 3-5-8-12-15-18 times, then every 4th round 4-4-4-3-2-0 times = 62-64-68-70-72-74 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 36-34-33-33-32-30 cm = 14¼"-13⅜"-13"-13"-12½"-11¾" from the division. There is 8 cm = 3⅛" left to finished length; try the sweater on and work to desired length. Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 MM = US 1.5 and work rib (knit 1 twisted, purl 1) for 8 cm = 3⅛". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember BINDING-OFF TIP! The sleeve measures approx. 44-42-41-41-40-38 cm = 17¼"-16½"-16⅛"-16⅛"-15¾"-15" from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way. ASSEMBLY: Fold the neck double to the inside and sew down. To avoid the neck being tight and rolling outwards, it is important that the seam is elastic. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
Comments / Questions (70)
Lizzy wrote:
Hello, during the “increases to saddle shoulder” section, the instructions say to increase twice per round on each shoulder near the markers. Is there a specific increase you recommend? I usually do M1R/M1L, but that might not look seamless on stockinette.
01.01.2024 - 04:38DROPS Design answered:
Dear Lizzy, increase to saddle shoulders as explained under INCREASE TIP-2 at the beginning of the pattern. Happy knitting!
02.01.2024 - 11:50Catherina wrote:
Hallo, werden die Ärmelzunahmen wie die Sattelzunahmen gestrickt (Zunahmetipp2)? Bzw stimmt glatt rechts? Dann entstehen Löcher, die ich auf den Fotos so nicht sehe... Danke für die Hilfe!
07.12.2023 - 11:06DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Catharina, in dieseln Video zeigen wir, wie man für die Sattelschulter (mit Zunahmentip-2) zunimmt; es sollte keine Löcher entstehen; Viel Spaß beim stricken!
08.12.2023 - 08:14Elois wrote:
Please could you show an image of all your garments in a neutral pose, with no hair covering garment? This will allow details to be seen properly. I also very much miss the ability to click and zoom on the image to see details I cannot be the only one you would like to view an non-arty view of the garment? Thank you
20.11.2023 - 15:32Chriseliz wrote:
Bonsoir, Pour la taille XXL, J'ai 47 mailles pour le dos, et 47 mailles pour le devant, 34 mailles aux épaules. Mais une fois les 4 augmentations pour les épaules faites, j'ai 49 mailes pour le devant, et idem pour le dos, toujours 34 mailles aux épaules, c'est bien cela ? Car je ne les vois pas comptabilisées dans l'explication. Pouvez vous me renseigner ? Avec mes remerciements.
14.11.2023 - 22:26DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Chriseliz, tout à fait, lorsque vous augmentez pour les épaules/manches marteau, seul le nombre de mailles du dos et du devant change (on augmente 4 mailles seulement); quand toutes les augmentations seront faites, vous aurez toujours 34 mailles pour les manches mais 115 pour le devant et pour le dos. Bon tricot!
15.11.2023 - 08:12Melanie wrote:
Instead it should say: "...so dass die Markierer jeweils genau in der Mitte von A2 und A3 sitzen." Maybe you could add this: "Zunahmen nun jeweils direkt vor den 8 Maschen von A2 und A3 und direkt hinter den 8 Maschen von A2 und A3." I really hope this is right, because this is how I'm going to proceed :-)
27.09.2023 - 18:15Melanie wrote:
Been pondering about the increases for the yoke for a while now. After having switched to the English version I finally understand. You have a slight translational error in your German version and will save people a lot of time, if you could correct it :-) "ZUNAHMEN FÜR DIE PASSE: ... dass jeder Markierer genau zwischen A.2 und A.3 sitzt." "INCREASES TO YOKE: ...so they sit in the middle of each A.2 and A.3." "zwischen" is wrong. Will finish in the next comment...
27.09.2023 - 18:12Licia Tonelli wrote:
Buongiorno, Cosa significa aumentare ogni 2 giri al punto aumenti per lo sprone : 1 giro aumentare e il successivo non aumentare? Oppure 1 aumentare , il 2 ' e 3' non aumentare e il 4' aumentare? Grazie per la risposta.
22.08.2023 - 18:25DROPS Design answered:
Buonasera Licia, per aumentare ogni 2 giri deve aumentare 1 giro si e uno no. Buon lavoro!
22.08.2023 - 22:22Deepa wrote:
Hi! You have asked for 4mm needles for the swatch. But the pattern wants 3mm and 2.5 mm needles. To get my swatch I changed to 3.5 mm needles. So what size needles do I use for the pattern?
05.07.2023 - 13:28DROPS Design answered:
Dear Deepa, this pattern is called on the basis of 24 sts x 32 rows in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm with the larger needle, if you need size 3,5 mm instead of 3 mm in the pattern then use 1/2 size smaller (= 3) to work the ribbing edges instead of the size 2,5 mm in the pattern. Happy knitting!
05.07.2023 - 13:44Orit Loyter wrote:
Hello, I dont understand how to do "place 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 1, knit the left stitch on the cable needle (the stitch is worked at the back of the piece), then knit the other stitch so it lies diagonally in front of the other 2 stitches" Is there a video that explains how to do it? Or can you tell me the agreed abbreviation of this, so I can find a video myself? thanks!
06.04.2023 - 19:36DROPS Design answered:
Dear Orit, we don't have a specific video for this. Work as follows: place 2 stitches on the auxiliary /cable needle and leave in front of the piece. Now knit the next stitch in the main needles. Slip back the closest stitch to the left needle from the auxiliary needle (the second slipped stitch and closest to the point of the needle) to the main needles and knit it as well. Now slip the last stitch from the auxiliary needle to the main needles and knit it as well. Happy knitting!
06.04.2023 - 20:47Ali wrote:
Grazie mille, probabilmente l’errore è proprio qui, non lavoravo tutto il diagramma.
11.03.2023 - 06:27