DROPS Children / 8 / 17

DROPS Children 8-17 by DROPS Design

Short-sleeved sweater in Bomull-Lin and Cotton Viscose

Sizes: 2-3/4-5/6-7/8 (9/10-11/12-13/14) years
Finished measurements:
Chest: 60-66-72-76 (78-82-86) cm

Waist: 56-60-62-66 (68-72-76) cm

Materials: Garnstudio BOMULL-LIN,
53% Egyptian cotton, 47% linen, 50 g/85 m
150-150-150-200 (200-200-250) g no. 01, white
and use: Garnstudio COTTON VISCOSE
54% Egyptian cotton, 46% viscose
50 g/110 m
100-100-150-150 (150-150-200) g no. 01, white

DROPS 4 mm and 4.5 mm circular and double pointed needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.

3-3-3-3(3-4-4) DROPS Mother-of-pearl buttons (no. 523).

Alternate yarns (for Cotton-Viscose):
* Garnstudio SAFRAN, 100% Egyptian cotton, 50 g/160 m

Alternate yarns (for Bomull-Lin):
* Garnstudio MUSKAT, 100% mercerized Egyptian cotton,
50 g./100 m
* KARISMA SUPERWASH, 100% superwash wool, 50 g/110 m

Alternate yarn (instead of using 1 strand Bomull-Lin + 1 strand Cotton Viscose, a single strand of the following may be used): Garnstudio PARIS
100% cotton, 50 g/75 m

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

53% Cotton, 47% Linen
from 2.50 £ /50g
DROPS Bomull-Lin uni colour DROPS Bomull-Lin uni colour 2.50 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Cotton Viscose DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
find alternatives
DROPS Needles & Hooks

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Gauge: 18 sts x 22 rows on larger needles with 1 strand Bomull-Lin + 1 strand Cotton Viscose (= 2 strands) in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm .

Make decreases as follows on the right side:
Before 2 edge sts: K 2 tog.
After 2 edge sts: slip 1, K 1, pass the slipped st over.
Make decreases as follows on the wrong side:
Before 2 edge sts: P 2 tog into back of stitch.
After 2 edge sts: P 2 tog.

Rib: * K 2, P 2 *. Repeat from * - *.

Body: Cast on 108-120-128-136 (140-148-156) sts on smaller circular needles with 1 strand Bomull-Lin + 1 strand Cotton Viscose (= 2 strands); join and place a marker at the join. Knit rib for 1 cm , change to larger circular needles and attach a marker at the other side, front and back = 54-60-64-68 (70-74-78) sts. Knit stockinette st, and at the same time dec 1 st at each side of the markers 2-3-4-4 (4-5-5) times every other row = 100-108-112-120 (124-128-136) sts. When the work measures 5-5-5-5 (6-6-7) cm inc 1 st at each side of the markers 2-3-4-4 (4-5-5) times every 8-6-4-4 (5-4-5) rows = 108-120-128-136 (140-148-156) sts. When the work measures 16-16-16-16 (18-19-22) cm bind off 2 sts each side of markers for armholes, and knit the rest of each part separately.

Front: = 50-56-60-64 (66-70-74) sts. Dec 1 st at each side for armhole (inside 2 edge sts) 3-4-3-4 (4-5-6) times every other row = 44-48-54-56 (58-60-62) sts. When the work measures 24-26-27-29 (32-33-36) cm bind off the center 8-8-10-10 (12-14-14) for the neck. Bind off at each neck edge every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time, 1 st 1 time. Bind off when the work measures 29-31-33-35 (38-40-43) cm .

Back: = 50-56-60-64 (66-70-74) sts. Shape armhole as on the front = 44-48-54-56 (58-60-62) sts. When the work measures 23-24-25-26 (28-29-32) cm divide the work for a split at the center back and knit the rest of each shoulder piece separately, keeping the edge st at each split edge in garter st throughout. After 4-5-6-7 (8-9-9) cm , bind off at each neck edge every other row: 8-8-9-9 (10-11-11) sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time. Bind off when the work measures 29-31-33-35 (38-40-43) cm .

Sleeve: Cast on 40-44-48-48 (48-52-52) sts on smaller double pointed needles with 1 strand Bomull-Lin + 1 strand Cotton Viscose (= 2 strands); join and place a marker at the join. Knit rib for 1 cm , change to larger circular needles and stockinette st. When the work measures 2-2-2-2 (2-2-4) cm bind off 3 sts each side of marker, and knit the rest of the work back and forth on the needles. Dec 1 st for sleeve caps (inside 2 edge sts) at each side every other row 4-4-3-8 (12-11-11) times, then bind off the edge sts at each side every other row: 2 sts 1-2-2-1 (1-1-1) times, 3 sts 2-2-3-2 (1-2-2) times, bind off. The work measures approx. 8-9-9-12 (14-14-16) cm .

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Pick up 56-72 sts (divisible by 4) around the neck on smaller needles with 1 strand Bomull-Lin + 1 strand Cotton Viscose (= 2 strands). Knit rib back and forth from the center back, but keep 1 st at each edge in garter st. Bind off when the neck edge measures 3-3-3-4 (4-4-4) cm . Make 3-3-3-3 (3-4-4) small loops over 1 cm of the right side of the split and sew buttons on the left side of the split. Sew in the sleeves.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 8-17) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (7)

Mette 27.10.2019 - 22:43:

Thank you for this mail..... but you did not answer my question the sleeves do not fit in with the body too small. they are to small !! looking forward to have the right instructions, so that I can finish the sweater.

DROPS Design 29.10.2019 kl. 12:16:

Hej Mette, jo hvis din strikkefasthed stemmer med 18 m i bredden og 22 pinde i højden på 10x10 cm, så skal ærmet passe ind i ærmegabet. Begge sider med indtagninger og så selve aflukningen stemmer med antal centimeter rundt i ærmegabet. Men ærmet må ikke stramme og du skal lukke løst af. God fornøjelse!

M Ohlsen 22.10.2019 - 17:16:

Drops Children 8-17 ærmet til at passe slet ikke til kroppen! der må være noget forkert i opskriften ! kan se jeg er ikke den eneste med det problem .

DROPS Design 23.10.2019 kl. 13:57:

Hej, Jo sørg for at lukke løst af i hver side, så skal hele stykket med indtagninger i hverside passe ind i selve ærmekuplen. God fornøjelse!

BLONDEL 06.04.2019 - 17:27:

Un problème de traduction pour les explications des Manches ? Vous indiquez de "rabattre" de chaque côté 3 mailles puis "rabattre" encore ALORS QUE les manches devraient aller en augmentant, à l exception du haut, non ?

DROPS Design 06.04.2019 kl. 17:47:

Bonjour Mme Blondel! Le dessin en bas de page n’est pas tres claire. Parce que les manches sont courtes, on n’augmente pas en les tricotant. Nous rabattons les mailles pour faire un bel arrondi de manche. Bon tricot!

Marieke 16.08.2018 - 14:24:

Hallo Allereerst wat een leuk patroon. Ik heb een vraag over de mouwen. Worden deze van onder naar boven gebreid? Je begint met een boordsteek maar daarna moet er steeds geminderd worden, en om een bredere bovenkant te krijgen moet ie toch juist meerderen? Ik begin in ieder geval met het lijf :)

DROPS Design 20.08.2018 kl. 09:16:

Dag Marieke, Je begint inderdaad onderaan de mouw en breit naar boven toe. Als je zeg maar bij de oksel bent, minder je steeds aan beide kanten van de mouw om de mouwkop (ronding bovenin de mouw) te creëren.

Silje Bastlid Hausken 20.02.2018 - 11:18:

Hei! Jeg får ikke erme til å stemme. Mangler det noe i oppskriften? Står ikke noe om hvor mange cm glattstrikk før en skal starte fellingen 🤔 😅 Så den ble litt stutt og kort når jeg strikket den slik det står på trykk nå 😉 Håpe dere kan hjelpe 🙏 Hilsen Silje.

DROPS Design 21.02.2018 kl. 14:36:

Hej Silje, ærmet skal være meget kort så målene i opskriften stemmer hvis man overholder strikkefastheden. God fornøjelse!

Renate 06.04.2014 - 23:20:

In de beschrijving staat 2 St. afkanten aan iedere kant vd markeerders. De eerste keer dat ik afkant is dan na een markeerder. De volgende keer is voor en na de markeerder. Dan moet ik nog 1 keer voor de markeerder afkanten en dan heb ik dus een steek/lus tussen m'n afkanten.

DROPS Design 07.04.2014 kl. 18:40:

Je kant 2 st af een een zijkant, breit het voorpand, kant 2 st af aan de andere zijkant en breit het achterpand. Geen lus, twee aparte panden. Veel breiplezier.

Renate 29.03.2014 - 00:25:

Als ik moet afkanten voor de armsgaten gaat het 3x goed. Alleen bij de laatste keer afkanten heb ik een 'gat' tussen m'n steken. Hoe los ik dit op. Ik brei op rondbreinaalden.

DROPS Design 02.04.2014 kl. 11:12:

Hoi Renate. Ik snap niet helemaal wat je bedoeld. Je breit de panden in de rondte. Dan kant je af voor de armsgaten: 4 st aan beide zijkanten (2 st aan elke kant van de markeerders), dus hier moet je wel een gat krijgen? Vervolgens brei je de panden heen en weer en kant mindert naast de 2 kantsteken 1 st in totaal x keer (zie de beschrijving boven aan het patroon - hier niet afkanten). Als je deze beschrijving volgt, dan zou er geen gaatje ontstaan.

Post a comment to pattern DROPS Children 8-17

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.