65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Northern Spirit Kids

Knitted hat / balaclava for children in DROPS Lima. The piece is worked with textured pattern and ribbed edging. Sizes 2 to 12 years.

DROPS Children 37-28
DROPS Design: Pattern no li-014-bn
Yarn group B

2 - 3/5 - 6/9 - 10/12 years
Fits head size:
48/50 - 50/52 - 52/54 - 54/56 cm

DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
150-150-150-200 g colour 9015, grey

22 stitches in width and 30 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: Length 40 cm for textured pattern .
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 40 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.


Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.



RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in the pattern from the right side.

INCREASE TIP (for sides of face-opening):
Increase on the inside of the outermost 7 stitches on each side. All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next row (wrong side) work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. The increased stitches are worked into A.1, i.e. the first 2 stitches are worked in stocking stitch, the next 2 in garter stitch, the next 2 in stocking stitch, etc..

DECREASE TIP (mid-back):
All decreases are worked from the right side!
Start 4 stitches before the marker thread mid-back, knit 2 together, knit 4 (marker thread sits between these 4 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 8th stitch at the same time as casting off; the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.




The middle section is worked back and forth with circular needle, from mid front and backwards. Stitches are knitted up on each side of this section. The piece is continued back and forth before stitches are cast on for the neck mid-front. The rest of the balaclava is finished in the round with circular needle. A ribbed edge is worked around the face-opening to finish.

Cast on 24-28-32-32 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 3.5 mm and Lima. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, work A.1 until there are 3 stitches left, work the first 2 stitches in A.1 (so the pattern begins and finishes in the same way) and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this pattern. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When the piece measures 9-11-11-13 cm, cast off the 1 edge stitch on each side = 22-26-30-30 stitches. Cut the strand. Then work the hood as described below.

Now knit up stitches on each side of the middle section on the next row from the right side as follows: Knit up 21-25-25-29 along the side of the mid-section inside the 1 edge stitch, continue A.1 as before over the 22-26-30-30 stitches on the needle and knit up 21-25-25-29 stitches along the other side of the mid-section inside the 1 edge stitch = 64-76-80-88 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the row (= mid-back). Allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it is used later when decreasing mid-back. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM WHERE THE MARKER THREAD WAS INSERTED!
Continue A.1 back and forth with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side towards mid-front – the pattern should match the pattern on the middle section. Then increase on each side towards mid front and decrease mid-back as described below – read the sections on increasing and decreasing before continuing!

When the piece measures 8-8-9-9 cm from where the marker thread was first inserted, increase 1 stitch on each side towards mid front – read INCREASE TIP (= 2 stitches increased). Increase like this every 4th row (i.e. every 2nd row from the right side) a total of 8 times on each side.

AT THE SAME TIME when you are about to increase for the 5th time, decrease 2 stitches mid-back – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4th row a total of 4 times (the increases and decreases finish at the same time).

After all the increases and decreases there are 72-84-88-96 stitches. When the piece measures 18-18-19-19 cm from where the marker thread was first inserted, cast on stitches mid-front for the neck; you can try the balaclava on and work to the desired length.
Cast on 12-12-16-16 stitches at the end of the next row from the right side = 84-96-104-112 stitches. Remove the marker thread and insert 1 marker on the row. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM THIS MARKER. Work the neck as described below.

Continue working in the round with A.1 over all stitches – make sure the pattern matches the whole way round.
When the piece measures 5-6-7-8 cm from the marker on the neck, increase all knit 2 sections to knit 3 by making 1 yarn over after each knit 2 (the yarn overs are knitted twisted on the next round) = 105-120-130-140 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 8-9-10-11 cm from the marker. Now increase all 2 garter stitches to 3 garter stitches by making 1 yarn over after all 2 garter stitches = 126-144-156-168 stitches. Work 1 round with knit 3, 3 garter stitches (the yarn overs are worked twisted to avoid holes). Purl 1 round, then cast off loosely with knit – read CASTING-OFF TIP. The piece measures approx. 32-34-36-38 cm from the middle of the mid-section and down.

Start from the right side at the bottom, where stitches were cast on for the neck, and knit up 136-140-148-152 stitches around the opening, inside the 1 edge stitch using short circular needle size 3 mm and Lima. The number of stitches should be divisible by 4.
Work rib in the round (knit 2, purl 2) for 5-6-6-6 cm – make sure the rib matches the stitches on the mid-section and on the cast-on stitches on the neck. Loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING-OFF TIP.
Fold the rib double to the inside and sew down. To avoid the edge being tight and rolling outwards, it is important the seam is elastic.


symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (9)

country flag Argene Revelant wrote:

Bonjour, j'aime beaucoup vos modèles, mais, pour celui-ci, je ne vois pas le diagramme. Merci

28.01.2024 - 15:32

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Revelant et merci. Le diagramme A.1 se trouve tout à la fin des explications, il se tricote sur 4 mailes et 4 rangs. Bon tricot!

29.01.2024 - 12:14

country flag Jacqueline wrote:

I understand where I should be making the increased stitches but can you please advise me how I include these extra stitches within the A1 pattern thank you for your help

11.01.2024 - 15:31

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jacqueline, when the first stitch before/after the increase is the first stitch in A.1, work the new st as the last st in A.1, the work the next increase as the the 3rd st in A.1, next 2 increases will be worked as 2nd and 1st = you have increased a whole repeat. Repeat one more time. Until one whole repeat will be increased (4 new sts), pattern will not fit, just work them as in diagram. Happy knitting!

12.01.2024 - 07:34

country flag Inge wrote:

Ich möchte die Kindermütze Northern Spirit Kids Stricken. Gleich zu Beginn stellt sich mir die Frage wie die Erklärung des Mittelteils beginnt. Maschen anschlagen ist klar. 1.;Reihe links Stricken ebenso. Danach steht KRAUS RECHTS- siehe A1. \r\nFür mich bedeutet kraus rechts: vor- und Hinreihe rechts Stricken. \r\nDas kann aber nicht gemeint sein. In welcher Richtung wird das Mittelteil gestrickt. Von vorne nach hinten?\r\nIch hoffe, Sie können mir weiterhelfen.

12.11.2023 - 13:44

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Inge, man will das Mittelteil von vorne (angeschlagene Maschen) nach hinten stricken, mit Muster A.1 und 1 Randmasche kraus rechts, die Randmaschen bzw die 1. und die letzte Masche jeder Reihe wird rechts gestrickt; dazwischen stricken Sie A.1 (= 2 Maschen glatt rechts, 2 Maschen Krausrechts). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

13.11.2023 - 08:43

country flag Merete Justesen wrote:

Ja, men så er der også kun 9cm plus de sidste par pinde under halsen og så bliver stykket under halsen meget kortere end på billedet. Jeg tænker at det må være en fejl i opskriften.

05.12.2022 - 15:37

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Merete. Fra du legger opp masker under haken strikkes det ca 15 cm (6 cm +9 cm), fra merket fra toppen er det strikket 18 cm når alle økninger/fellinger er gjort, og når man ser på bildet virker målene å stemme med hverandre. 15 cm +18 cm + de siste omgangene/avfellingene = ca 34 cm. Om du ønsker den lengre og du har nok garn, kan du fint strikke den lengre. mvh DROPS Design

05.12.2022 - 15:55

country flag Merete Justesen wrote:

Efter første udtagning til hals står der strik 9 cm fra mærket. Mærket sidder ved udtagningen til hals og derfra er der allerede strikket 6 cm. Kan det passe at der kun skal strikkes 3 cm efter første udtagning? For så bliver stykket under hals ikke så langt som på billederne. Strikker str 3-5 år

05.12.2022 - 12:38

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Merete. Når du har lagt opp 12 nye masker (under haken), settes det et nytt merke. Strikk for forklart i oppskriften til arbeidet måler 6 cm, øk deretter alle 2 rett til 3 rett. Strikk videre til arbeidet måler 9 cm fra merket, altså 3 cm fra siste det ble økt masker. Og nå økes det igjen. Strikk 1 omgang med 3 masker rett / 3 masker riller. Strikk 1 omgang vrang. Deretter felles det løst av med rett. Arbeidet måler ca 34 cm fra midt på midtpartiet og ned. mvh DROPS Design

05.12.2022 - 14:45

country flag Jocelyne wrote:

Je ne vois comment faire une augmentation à 7 mailles du bord et continuer à réaliser le diagramme, dans la mesure où je rajoute une maille et le diagramme tourne sur 2 mailles merci pour votre aide

02.04.2022 - 17:30

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Jocelyne, effectivement, après la 1ère augmentation, le motif ne tombera pas juste, tricotez les mailles comme un nouveau motif en largeur, après 4 augmentations, vous aurez augmenté 1 motif complet, après 8 augmentations, vous aurez augmenté 2 motifs complets. Bon tricot!

04.04.2022 - 08:40

country flag Emma wrote:

Stämmer det att det på mittpartiet, när man stickar 24maskor, blir det en rand på 4maskor och på andra sidan en rand på 6maskor(kantmaskan inte medräknad).

21.10.2021 - 23:38

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Emma. Inte helt säker på att jag förstår vad du menar. Vartannat varv i A1 kommer vara slätstickat och vartannat resårstickat (2 rm/2 am) med 1 kantmaska i rätstickning på varje sida. Mvh DROPS Design

22.10.2021 - 08:25

country flag Sølvi Myhre wrote:

Hei jeg skal strikke denne i Merino extra fine Bruker jeg samme pinnenr som til Lima?

24.09.2021 - 10:10

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Sølvi. Ja det skulle jag tro, men det kommer an på hur stramt du stickar. Du ska ha den pinne som gör att du får den stickfasthet som uppges i oppskriften. Mvh DROPS Design

24.09.2021 - 10:43

country flag Britta wrote:

Jeg er i tvivl om hvor udtagningerne præcis skal laves. I opskriften står der: “Tag ud indenfor de yderste 7 masker mod midt foran”. Er det lige før de 7 sidste masker inden mærketråden i midten af huen? Eller er det på et vilkårligt sted blandt de første og sidste 7 masker i hver side af huen? Eller lige før den 7. Maske?

08.03.2021 - 20:33

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Britta, du tager ud mod ansigtet, indenfor de yderste 7 masker :)

11.03.2021 - 09:49