DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 2.90 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Way to Happiness

Knitted jumper in 1 strand DROPS Air and 1 strand DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk (= 2 strands) or 1 strand Wish. Piece is knitted top down with round yoke, lace pattern, garter stitch and ¾ sleeves. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 221-20
DROPS design: Pattern ai-323
Yarn group C + C or E
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
200-200-250-250-300-300 g colour 01, off white
And use:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
100-100-125-125-150-150 g colour 01, off white

Or use:
DROPS WISH from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
450-500-550-600-650-700 g colour 01, off white

KNITTING TENSION:
11 stitches in width and 15 rows vertically in stocking stitch and 1 strand Air and 1 strand Brushed Alpaca Silk (= 2 strands) or 1 strand Wish = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 8 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 mm : Length 40 and 80 cm for stocking stitch/ pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 7 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 mm : Length 40 and 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 2.90 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Choose diagram for your size.

INCREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on round (e.g. 50 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 10) = 5.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after every 5th stitch. On next round work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

CAST-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight cast-off edge you may use a larger needle size. If this also is too tight, work a 1 yarn over after approx. every 6th stitch while casting off (cast off yarn overs as regular stitches).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work neck edge and yoke in the round on circular needle from mid back, top down. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Body is worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 50-52-54-58-60-62 stitches on circular needle size 7 mm with 1 strand Air + 1 strand Brushed Alpaca Silk (= 2 strands) or 1 strand Wish. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 1/purl 1) in the round for 4 cm.
When rib is done, knit 1 round while increasing 10-12-14-14-16-18 stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP = 60-64-68-72-76-80 stitches.
Knit 1 round.
Switch to circular needle size 8 mm. Insert 1 marker at the beginning of round (= mid back), measure yoke from this marker!

YOKE:
Now work pattern as follows: Work A.1 in the round - choose diagram for your size. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Continue pattern in the round like this and increase evenly on rounds with arrow as follows - remember INCREASE TIP:
ARROW-1: Increase 24-28-32-32-28-32 stitches evenly = 84-92-100-104-104-112 stitches.
ARROW-2: Increase 24-28-32-28-28-32 stitches evenly = 108-120-132-132-132-144 stitches.
ARROW-3: Increase 24-28-32-24-28-32 stitches evenly = 132-148-164-156-160-176 stitches.
ARROW-4: Increase 24-24-24-20-28-28 stitches evenly = 156-172-188-176-188-204 stitches.
Increase in size S, M and L is now done. In size XL, XXL and XXXL increase one more time:
ARROW-5: Increase 26-30-30 stitches evenly = 202-218-234 stitches.

When A.1 has been worked vertically, piece measures approx. 21-21-21-26-26-26 cm from marker. Then work in stocking stitch until piece measures 21-23-25-27-29-31 cm from marker. Now divide piece for body and sleeves. Work next round as follows:
Work the first 23-26-28-31-33-36 stitches (= half back piece), slip the next 31-34-38-40-43-45 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve and cast on 6-6-6-8-8-8 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work the next 47-52-56-61-66-72 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 31-34-38-40-43-45 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve and cast on 6-6-6-8-8-8 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work the remaining 24-26-28-30-33-36 stitches (= half back piece).
Then finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 106-116-124-138-148-160 stitches. Continue in the round in stocking stitch. When piece measures 24 cm from division, increase 14-16-16-22-24-28 stitches evenly = 120-132-140-160-172-188 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 7 mm. Now work rib (= knit 1/purl 1) in the round for 5 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - read CAST-OFF TIP. Jumper measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from shoulder and down.

SLEEVES:
Slip the 31-34-38-40-43-45 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece back on a short circular needle/double pointed needles size 8 mm, and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches cast on in the side under sleeve = 37-40-44-48-51-53 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the new stitches (= 3-3-3-4-4-4 new stitches on each side of marker thread). Move the marker thread upwards when working; it should be used for decrease mid under sleeve.
Begin round at the marker thread and work stocking stitch in the round. When sleeve measures 4 cm from division, decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this approx. every 0-13-4-2-1½-1 cm 1-2-4-5-6-7 times in total = 35-36-36-38-39-39 stitches. When piece measures 26-24-23-22-20-18 cm from division – or work until desired length (approx. 5 cm remain until finished measurements), increase 5-6-6-6-5-5 stitches evenly = 40-42-42-44-44-44 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 7 mm. Work rib (knit 1/purl 1) in the round for 5 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - remember CAST-OFF TIP. Work the other sleeve the same way.

Diagram

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
symbols = Increase round - read explanation in pattern
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS 221-20

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Comments / Questions (19)

country flag Elisabeth wrote:

J\'ai commandé la laine pour tricoter ce modèle chez LUCE en FRANCE, impossible d\'obtenir une réponse sur vos dðlais de livraison à cette boutique. Et je ne suis pas la seule à me plaindre, c\'est une très mauvaise enseigne, je le vois dans les commentaires des clientes.

18.08.2023 - 14:30

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Elisabeth, peut-être pourriez-vous nous donner votre numéro de commande? Ainsi nous pourrons le communiquer à Luce Laine Tricot qui pourra alors vous retrouver plus facilement et vous répondre dans les plus brefs délais. Merci.

21.08.2023 - 08:35

country flag Ann Hoodless wrote:

Hi I loved the cardigan pattern but it knit up a bit small in the body, I did check my tension

20.08.2022 - 17:57

country flag Birgit Eklund Pedersen wrote:

Jeg har strikket denne dejlige bluse (221-20) og kunne godt tænke mig at strikke den udelukkende med drops Air. Kan det lade sig gøre? Vh Birgit

01.01.2022 - 14:18

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Birgit. Ja du kan sticka den i kun DROPS Air men då må du bruke dubbel tråd, annars stämmer inte stickfastheten. Mvh DROPS Design

03.01.2022 - 13:47

country flag Birgit Eklund Pedersen wrote:

Hej. Jeg forstår ikke at ærmelængden er kortere jo større størrelse??

18.11.2021 - 18:28

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Birgit. Den totale bredde fra (håndled til håndled) vil være længere i de større størrelser, også selvom selve ærmet er kortere. De større størrelser har længere ærmekuppel samt bredere skuldervidde. Dette resulterer i en god pasform i alle størrelser. Mvh DROPS Design

19.11.2021 - 09:35

country flag Daisie wrote:

Please photograph the model standing up. It better showcases the garment. Thank you!

09.08.2021 - 03:29

country flag Chantal Dionne wrote:

C’est au sujet de vos patrons. Lorsque j’essaye de les imprimer, soit les photos se séparent en deux sur deux pages ou encore, soit la première page commence à s’imprimer au bas ce qui fait que toute l’impression est décalée et que les mesures du croquis sont divisées sur 2 pages. Je n’ai jamais eu de difficultés auparavant. J’utilise une imprimante couleur HP Photosmart Cr4345 et elle va à merveille.. Merci

02.03.2021 - 05:18

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Dionne, désolée pour la réponse tardive, avez-vous réussi depuis? La plupart du temps, les problèmes d'impression viennent de paramètres utilisés lors de la précédente impression, pensez à bien vérifier vos paramètres. Bon tricot!

20.05.2021 - 08:47

country flag Caroline Lalanne wrote:

Jag får inte riktigt till det att öka jämtfördelat redan vid första pilen. I L är det 68 m och A1 är 4m= 17 "rapporter". Om jag ska öka med 32m vid pilen då går det inte att dela på mina 17 rapporter (17/32=1.8m). Hur ska jag göra? Mest jämt antal som maskökning jag får för mina rapporter är 34m. Eller är det något jag missat?

13.02.2021 - 09:33

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Caroline, jo men du har 68 m, skal øka 32 jämt fördelat, så har du 100 m och nu har du 25 rapporter. På samme måde öker antal rapporter for hver gang du har økt ved en pil. :)

23.02.2021 - 15:09

country flag Inke Jörgensen wrote:

Leichte Brise - sehr schön!!!

04.02.2021 - 21:06

country flag Patricia wrote:

Douceur d hiver

17.01.2021 - 17:11

country flag Lilla Seh-Taylor wrote:

September Breeze

15.01.2021 - 07:58