DROPS Design: Pattern no w-063-bn
Yarn group C
-------------------------------------------------------

SIZE:
Height: approx. 35 cm.

MATERIAL:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
100 g colour: 63, desert rose / 65, rust / 44, brown / 26, beige (for skin colour).
50 g colour 30, jeans blue (for dresses and socks)
50 g colour 100, light wash (for pants and socks)
50 g colour: 65, rust / 44, brown / 15, black / 35, vanilla (for hair)
Left-over yarn for eyes and mouths.

Each doll + dress + filling weighs approx. 140 g.
You will need approx. 75 g yarn for skin, 30 g for dress + socks, 15 g for pants + socks and 10 g for hair.

CROCHET TENSION:
18 treble crochets in width = 10 cm.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 MM.
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller hook size.

DROPS WOOD BUTTONS, NO 503: 2 items for each doll.

ACCESSORIES:
Wadding.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------


100% Cotton
from 0.95 £ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 1.05 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 0.95 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.75£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
-------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

-------------------------------------------------------

WORKING 2 TREBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER:
Work 1 treble crochet, but wait with the last pull through (= 2 loops on hook), work the next treble crochet, and take the last pull-through all loops on the hook.

COLOURS:
The dolls have different skin and hair colour:

SKIN AND HAIR COLOUR:
With skin-colour rust use hair-colour brown.
With skin-colour brown use hair-colour black.
With skin-colour beige use hair-colour rust.
With skin-colour desert rose use hair-colour vanilla.

LEG COLOUR: Cast on + 6 rounds worked with jeans blue, then 1 round light wash, 14 rounds with chosen skin-colour and 2 rounds light wash.

-------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

-------------------------------------------------------

DOLL – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The doll is worked in sections which are then worked together. Start by working 2 legs and arms, then pants, body and head. The dress is worked and hair is fastened to the head. The eyes and mouth are embroidered to finish.

LEG:
Read COLOURS in explanations above. Using the colours given in LEG COLOUR and hook size 3.5 mm, work 4 chain stitches and form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch.
ROUND 1: Work 1 chain stitch, then 6 double crochets around the ring. Finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet.
ROUND 2: Work 1 chain stitch, * 1 double crochet in the next double crochet, 2 double crochets in the next double crochet *. Repeat from *-* to end of round and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet = 9 double crochets.
ROUNDS 3-21: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each double crochet and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet – Remember to change colour.
ROUND 22: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the first 4 double crochets, 2 double crochets in the next double crochet, 1 double crochet in each of the next 3 double crochets, 2 double crochets in the next double crochet and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet = 11 double crochets.
ROUND 23: Work 1 chain stitch, work 2 double crochets in all double crochets and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet = 22 double crochets. Cut and fasten the strand.

Work 1 more leg in the same way, but do not cut the strand; it will be used later. Fill the legs with wadding.

ARM:
Read COLOURS in explanations above. The arms are worked in the same skin colour as used for the legs.
Using hook size 3.5 mm, work as LEG up to ROUND 21.
ROUND 22: Work 1 round of double crochets, AT THE SAME TIME as you decrease 1 double crochet by skipping 1 stitch, and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet = 8 double crochets. Cut and fasten the strand.
Work 1 more arm in the same way. Fill both arms with wadding and lay to one side.

PANTS:
Now continue from the one leg as follows using light wash:
ROUND 1: Work 3 chain stitches, 1 treble crochet in each double crochet around the one leg, then continue around the other leg and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first treble crochet = 44 treble crochets.
ROUND 2: Work 3 chain stitches, then 1 round of treble crochets AT THE SAME TIME as each 4th treble crochet is decreased by working each 3rd and 4th treble crochet together– read WORKING 2 TREBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER. Finish with 1 slip stitch in the first treble crochet = 33 treble crochets.
ROUND 3: Work 3 chain stitches, then 1 round of treble crochets AT THE SAME TIME as each 3rd treble crochet is decreased by working each 2nd and 3rd treble crochet together. Finish with 1 slip stitch in the first treble crochet = 22 treble crochets.
ROUND 4: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each treble crochet and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet. Cut and fasten the strand.

BODY:
Change to your chosen skin-colour. The round starts mid-back.
ROUND 1: Fasten the strand with 1 slip stitch, * 1 double crochet in the next double crochet, 2 double crochets in the next double crochet * work from *-* to the end of the round and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet = 33 double crochets.
ROUNDS 2-10: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each stitch and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet.
ROUND 11: Work 1 chain stitch, skip 1 double crochet, work 1 double crochet, skip 1 double crochet, 1 double crochet in each of the next 11 double crochets. Skip 1 double crochet, 1 double crochet in the next stitch, skip 1 double crochet, 1 double crochet in the next stitch, skip 1 double crochet, 1 double crochet in each of the next 11 stitches. Skip 1 double crochet, 1 double crochet in the next stitch, skip 1 double crochet and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet = 26 double crochets.
ROUND 12: Work 1 chain stitch, work 1 double crochet, skip 1 double crochet, 1 double crochet in each of the next 8 stitches. Skip 1 double crochet, 1 double crochet in the next stitch, skip 1 double crochet, 1 double crochet in the next stitch, skip 1 double crochet, 1 double crochet in each of the next 8 stitches. Skip 1 double crochet, 1 double crochet in the next stitch, skip 1 double crochet and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet = 20 double crochets.
ROUNDS 13-14: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each stitch and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet.
ROUND 15: Now attach the arms to the body as follows: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 4 double crochets, place 1 arm so it lies double, against the body. Work 4 double crochets through the doubled arm and the body. Work 1 double crochet in each of the next 4 double crochets (= front), then attach the 2nd arm in the same way as the first. Work 1 double crochet in each of the last 4 double crochets and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch.
ROUND 16: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each stitch, but skip every 5th double crochet and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet = 16 double crochets. Fill the body with wadding now.
ROUNDS 17-18: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each double crochet and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet. Do not cut the strand, the head is now worked with the same skin-colour as the body.

HEAD:
ROUND 1: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each double crochet and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet = 16 double crochets.
ROUND 2: Work 1 chain stitch, * 1 double crochet in the next double crochet, 2 double crochets in the next double crochet *, work from *-* to end of round and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet = 24 double crochets.
ROUND 3: Work 1 chain stitch, * 1 double crochet in each of the next 2 double crochets, 2 double crochets in the next double crochet *, work from *-* to end of round and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet = 32 double crochets.
ROUND 4: Work 1 chain stitch, * 1 double crochet in each of the next 3 double crochets, 2 double crochets in the next double crochet *, work from *-* to end of round and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet = 40 double crochets.
ROUNDS 5-7: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each stitch to end of round and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet.

ROUND 8: On this round work the nose as follows: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 19 stitches. Then work the nose in the middle stitch of the face as follows: 1 double crochet, 3 chain stitches, 1 treble crochet in the first of the 3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet. Then continue as follows: 1 double crochet in each stitch to end of round and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet.
ROUND 9: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each stitch (NOTE! over the nose work just 1 double crochet between the 2 double crochets) and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet.
ROUND 10: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each stitch to end of round and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet.
ROUND 11: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each stitch AT THE SAME TIME as each 5th double crochet is skipped and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet = 32 double crochets.
ROUND 12: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each stitch AT THE SAME TIME as each 4th double crochet is skipped and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet = 24 double crochets.
ROUNDS 13 - 14: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each stitch and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet. Fill the head with wadding and change to your chosen hair-colour – read COLOURS above.

ROUND 15: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each stitch AT THE SAME TIME as each 4th double crochet is skipped and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet = 18 double crochets.
ROUND 16: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each stitch AT THE SAME TIME as each 6th double crochet is skipped and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet = 15 double crochets.
ROUND 17: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each stitch AT THE SAME TIME as each 3rd double crochet is skipped and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet = 10 double crochets. Fill the head with wadding now.
ROUND 18: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each stitch AT THE SAME TIME as each 2nd double crochet is skipped and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet = 5 double crochets. Cut the strand, use a needle to tack through the outermost loop of every stitch. Finish filling the head, pull the strand tight and fasten well.

DRESS:
Using hook size 3.5 mm and jeans blue, work 48 chain stitches and form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch.
ROUNDS 1- 3: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each stitch to the end of the round and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet = 48 double crochets.
ROUND 4: Work 1 chain stitch, then 1 double crochet in each stitch, but work every 7th and 8th double crochet together and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet = 42 double crochets.
ROUNDS 5-7: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each stitch to the end of the round and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet.
ROUND 8: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each stitch, but work every 6th and 7th double crochet together and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet = 36 double crochets.
ROUND 9: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each stitch to the end of the round and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet.
ROUND 10: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each stitch, but work every 5th and 6th double crochet together and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet = 30 double crochets.
Now work the bib as follows:
ROW 11: Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 11 double crochets, 3 chain stitches, skip 1 double crochet, 1 double crochet in each of the next 8 double crochets. Turn the piece, now work piece back and forth.
Row 12-16: Work 3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in each of the 8 double crochets. Cut and fasten the strand.

STRAPS:
Using hook size 3.5 mm and jeans blue, work 18 chain stitches. Turn the piece and work 1 treble crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook. Then 1 treble crochet in every chain stitch to the end of the row. Cut and fasten the strand. Work 1 more strap in the same way and sew both to the dress; they should be close to each other at the back.

ASSEMBLY:
Embroider the eyes and mouth. Fasten 1 button on each side of the bib; sew through both the strap and the bib. Fasten the strand well.

HAIR:
Cut 18 strands of 40 cm of your chosen hair-colour. Each strand is fastened as follows: Fold it double, thread the loop around the first round of hair-colour on the head. Thread the ends through the loop and pull tight (there are 18 stitches on the first round of hair-colour and 1 strand is fastened in each stitch). When all the strands have been fastened they can be braided together into 2 or more braids – see picture. Fasten the ends of the braids with a strand.
signature-image

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby & Children 38-17) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS Baby & Children 38-17

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.