DROPS Belle uni colour 53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen |
2.20 € /50g |
Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Mallia Kouvaria - pleko.gr. website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Mallia Kouvaria - pleko.gr. website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Belle uni colour 53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen 2.20 € /50g Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Mallia Kouvaria - pleko.gr. website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Mallia Kouvaria - pleko.gr. website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
= K from WS with light beige | |
= K from RS, P from WS with zinc |
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= K from RS, P from WS with mauve | |
= K from RS, P from WS with dandelion | |
= K from RS, P from WS with off white |
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= K 2 tog, 1 YO with light beige |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Freja Cardigan |
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Knitted DROPS jacket with stripes, lace edge, ¾ sleeves and raglan in “Belle”. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS 169-31 |
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GARTER ST (worked in the round): 1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. GARTER ST (back and forth): K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K. STRIPES BODY: K 1 row from WS with zinc, K 1 row from RS with zinc, 6-6-6-6½-6½-6½ cm in stocking st with light beige, K 1 row from WS with mauve, K 1 row from RS with mauve, 6-6-6-6½-6½-6½ cm in stocking st with light beige, K 1 row from WS with dandelion, K 1 from RS with dandelion, 6-6-6-6½-6½-6½ cm in stocking st with light beige, K 1 row from WS with off white, K 1 row from RS with off white. STRIPES SLEEVE: P 1 round zinc, K 1 round zinc, 4 cm in stocking st with light beige, P 1 round with mauve, K 1 round with mauve, 4 cm in stocking st with light beige, P 1 round with dandelion, K 1 round with dandelion, 4 cm in stocking st with light beige, P 1 round with off white, K 1 round with off white. PATTERN: See diagram A.1. The diagram show all rows in pattern seen from RS. INCREASE TIP (applies to sides on body and mid under sleeve): Inc on each side of marker as follows: Work until 2 sts remain before marker: Make 1 YO, work 4 sts in stocking st (marker is in the middle of these sts), make 1 YO. On next row/round work YOs twisted to avoid holes (= 2 sts inc). RAGLAN: Dec for raglan in every transition between sleeves and body. All dec are done from RS! Dec as follows before marker: K 2 tog. Dec as follows after marker: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso. BUTTONHOLES: Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = K tog second and third st from edge and make 1 YO. Dec for buttonholes when piece measures: SIZE S: 10, 17, 24, 31, 38, 45 and 52 cm SIZE M: 11, 18, 25, 32, 39, 46 and 54 cm SIZE L: 12, 19, 26, 33, 40, 48 and 56 cm SIZE XL: 10, 17, 24, 31, 38, 45, 52 and 58 cm. SIZE XXL: 11, 18, 25, 32, 39, 46, 53 and 60 cm. SIZE XXXL: 12, 19, 26, 33, 40, 47, 54 and 62 cm. NOTE: Adjust the four first buttonhole so that they are placed in the middle of a colour stripes - see photo. ---------------------------------------------------------- BODY: Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 171-187-203-223-251-275 sts (incl 5 band sts in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 3 mm with light beige. Work 3 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and work in stocking st but work the outermost 5 sts in each side in garter st (= bands). When piece measures 8 cm, insert 1 marker 45-49-53-58-65-71 sts in from each side (= 81-89-97-107-121-133 sts between markers on back piece). Inc 1 st on each side of both markers – READ INCREASE TIP (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc every 8-8-8-9-9-9 cm a total of 4 times = 187-203-219-239-267-291 sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 10-11-12-10-11-12 cm, work STRIPES BODY - see explanation above. NOTE: On the rows where another colour than the base colour is used, that colour should also be worked over bands but in garter st. AT THE SAME TIME when stripes beg, dec for BUTTONHOLE on right band - see explanation above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When stripes are done, continue with light beige and stocking st with 5 band sts in garter st in each side. When piece measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm, work next row from WS as follows: Work 46-50-53-58-64-70 sts (= left front piece), cast off 6-6-8-8-10-10 sts for armhole, work 83-91-97-107-119-131 sts (= back piece), cast off 6-6-8-8-10-10 sts for armhole and work the remaining 46-50-53-58-64-70 sts (= right front piece). Put piece aside and knit the sleeves. SLEEVE: Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 54-56-58-60-62-64 sts on circular needle size 3 mm with light beige. Work 3 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work in stocking st. When piece measures 5 cm, inc 2 sts mid under sleeve - READ INCREASE TIP. Repeat inc every 6-5-4-3½-3-2½ cm a total of 5-6-7-8-8-9 times = 64-68-72-76-78-82 sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 13-12-11-10-9-8 cm, work STRIPES SLEEVE - see explanation above. When stripes are done, continue with light beige and in stocking st. When piece measures 33-32-31-31-30-29 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke), work next round as follows: Cast off 3-3-4-4-5-5 sts, work the next 58-62-64-68-68-72 sts and cast off the remaining 3-3-4-4-5-5 sts. Knit another sleeve. YOKE: Slip sleeves on to same circular needle size 4 mm as body where armholes were cast off = 291-315-331-359-383-415 sts. Insert 1 marker in every transition between sleeves and body = 4 markers. Work pattern back and forth according to diagram A.1 with 5 band sts in garter st in each side towards mid front (1st row = RS - NOTE: Repeat A.1 upwards). AT THE SAME TIME on first row from RS dec for RAGLAN in every transition between body and sleeves – see explanation above. Repeat dec every other row (i.e. every row from RS) 18-20-21-22-23-24 times in total = 147-155-163-183-199-223 sts remain on needle. NECK EDGE: Switch to circular needle size 3 mm and work in garter st back and forth from mid front. After 2 cm in garter st - adjust so that next row is worked from RS, dec 28-28-27-26-26-26 sts evenly (do not dec over bands) = 119-127-136-157-173-197 sts. When edge in garter st measures 4 cm in all sizes, dec 24-24-23-23-23-23 sts evenly (not over bands) = 95-103-113-134-150-174 sts. Repeat dec one more time in size XL + XXL + XXXL when edge in garter st measures 5 cm but now dec 19-25-39 sts evenly. After all dec are done, 95-103-113-115-125-135 sts remain on needle. Loosely cast off when edge in garter st measures 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm, jacket measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from shoulder and down. ASSEMBLY: Sew the openings under the sleeves. Sew on buttons. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 309 catalogues and 11518 patterns translated into English (UK/cm). 11518
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (8)
Karin wrote:
Jag undrar över ränderna. På bilden ser det ut som att det är tex zink och natur, malva och natur osv på de nedersta ränderna, men så står det inte i texten.
22.02.2021 - 07:09DROPS Design answered:
Hej Karin. De glesa ränderna nere på tröjan stickas enligt förklaring "RÄNDER FRAM- OCH BAKST:" och ränderna på oket (efter att ärmar och fram- och bakstycke satts ihop) stickas enligt diagram A.1. Hoppas det är till hjälp. Mvh DROPS Design
22.02.2021 - 10:41Anette wrote:
Jeg synes ikke jeg kan få det til at passe i den pind hvor man både skal strikke hulmønster og lave raglan indtagninger, hvordan gør man der?
03.10.2020 - 00:39DROPS Design answered:
Hei Anette. Du feller i alle radene fra retten, også ved hullmønstret. Du strikker de 2 maskene før merket sammen uten å lage last (da blir det 1 maske mindre). God Fornøyelse!
05.10.2020 - 11:58Gro wrote:
Hei, Det står at man skal felle ragland i alle runder fra retten. Skal man også gjøre dette i runden med mønster der det er "to rette sammen og ett kast". Hvordan feller man ragland da i såfall?
23.09.2016 - 13:18DROPS Design answered:
Hej Gro. Ja, du feller i alle p fra retten, saa ogsaa i mönster. Du strikker de 2 m för merket sammen uden at lave kast (saa der bliver 1 m mindre).
13.10.2016 - 16:16Krentner Maréka wrote:
Ma demande faite plus bas concerne le modéle 169/30 le pull et non le gilet. Merci
27.03.2016 - 17:49DROPS Design answered:
Voir réponse ci-dessous - bon tricot!
29.03.2016 - 09:55Krentner Maréka wrote:
Bonjour, le diagramme A1 est à tricoter combien de fois car pour arriver à passer de 280 mailles à 136 mailles et à faire 18 fois les diminutions tous les 2 tours, (le diagramme fait 8 diminutions) j'aurais bien aimé que l'on nous précise la hauteur de ce diagramme. Merci de votre réponse. Maréka
27.03.2016 - 16:14DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Krentner, en taille S pour le pull, vous devez diminuer pour le raglan 18 fois tous les 2 tours = 36 tours au total, A.1 = 16 tours, il vous faudra donc tricoter 2x A.1 + les 4 premiers tours du diagramme (32+4=36 tours). Bon tricot!
29.03.2016 - 09:55Gro wrote:
Hei. Jeg ønsker å strikke denne med lange armer. Er det bare å forlenge litt på armene, eller bør de smales inn nederst i såfall?
13.03.2016 - 12:09DROPS Design answered:
Hej Gro, ja det er bare at forlænge, nej du behøver ikke gøre dem smallere nederst, bare du forlænger nederst.
14.03.2016 - 08:58Maria Gamba wrote:
I have downloaded the free version of this sweater - VS-023, but I would like to make this version with the buttons -VS-024. Do I need to buy a new pattern or can I get instructions on how to convert the free version to open the front and add the buttons?
30.01.2016 - 16:49Liz wrote:
Gefällt mir ausnehmend gut. Die Farbenkombination ist super - das Modell ist einfach und doch elegant.
11.01.2016 - 14:35