DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Cherry with a Twist

Asymmetric DROPS Jacket in ”Karisma” with cables on one front piece. Size S to XXXL.

DROPS 126-6
DROPS design: Pattern no U-597
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
500-550-600-700-750-800 g colour no 39, maroon

DROPS POINTED NEEDLES size 4 mm – or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS SHELL BUTTON no 525: 9-9-9-10-10-10 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagram M.1- Diagram shows the pattern from RS (Row 1 = RS).
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.
BUTTONHOLES:
Make buttonholes on front band on right front piece. 1 BUTTONHOLE = K tog third and fourth st from mid front and make 1 YO. Make buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S, M and L:
2, 8, 15, 21, 27, 33, 40, 46 and 52 cm.
SIZE XL, XXL and XXXL:
2, 9, 15, 22, 28, 34, 41, 47, 54 and 60 cm.
INCREASING TIP (applies to right front piece):
Inc 1 st inside 9 sts towards front edge (= 5 garter sts, 2 stocking sts and 2 garter sts) by making 1 YO. On next row K YO into back of loop to avoid a hole - K or P acc to pattern.
Work the first 2 inc sts in garter st, the next 6 in stocking st, after the 8th inc continue these 8 sts in M.1.
Repeat the 8 inc a total of 6-6-6-7-7-7 times.
DECREASING TIP (applies to left front piece):
Make all dec from RS. Dec 1 st inside 9 sts (= 5 garter sts, 2 stocking sts and 2 garter sts) by K2 tog.
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BACK PIECE:
Cast on 90-96-102-114-126-138 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 4 mm with Karisma. K 1 row from WS and K 1 row from RS. Work next row as follows (from WS): 1 edge st in garter st, P7, * K2, P4 *, repeat from *-* until 10 sts remain, K2, P7 and 1 edge st in garter st. Continue as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, 7 stocking sts, * 2 garter sts, 4 stocking sts *, repeat from *-* until 10 sts remain, 2 garter sts, 7 stocking sts and 1 edge st in garter st.
SIDE INC AND DEC: At the same time when piece measures 6 cm dec 1 st each side and repeat the dec on every 3-3-3-3.5-3.5-3.5 cm a total of 6 times = 78-84-90-102-114-126 sts. When piece measures 24-24-24-28-28-28 cm inc 1 st each side, repeat the inc on every 3-3-3-3.5-3.5-3.5 cm a total of 6 times (work inc sts in stocking st) = 90-96-102-114-126-138 sts.
ARMHOLE: When piece measures 42-42-42-48-48-48 cm cast of for armhole at the beg of every row each side: 4 sts 1 time, 3 sts 0-0-0-1-2-3 times, 2 sts 0-1-1-3-4-4 times and 1 st 3-3-3-2-3-4 times = 76-78-84-84-84-88 sts. Continue pattern as before with 1 edge st each side. When piece measures 59-60-61-68-69-70 cm cast off the middle 30-24-30-30-30-30 sts for neck and complete each shoulder separately. Cast off 2 sts on neckline on next row = 21-25-25-25-25-27 sts left on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 61-62-63-70-71-72 cm.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Worked back and forth on needle.
Cast on 41-49-57-57-65-73 sts (includes 5 front band sts towards front edge and 1 edge st at the side) on needle size 4 mm with Karisma. K 1 row from WS and K 1 row from RS. Work next row as follows (from WS): 1 edge st in garter st, P7, * K2, P6 *, repeat from *-* a total of 3-4-5-5-6-7 times, K2, P2, K5.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
PATTERN: Continue as follows (= from RS): 5 front band sts in garter st, 2 stocking sts, 2 garter sts, M.1 (= 8 sts) 3-4-5-5-6-7 times, 7 stocking sts and 1 edge st in garter st.
INC FOR SLOPED FRONT: At the same time on 6th row (from cast on row) inc 1 st towards front edge inside 9 sts – SEE INCREASING TIP. Repeat the inc on every 3rd row (i.e. from RS and WS alternately) a total of 48-48-48-56-56-56 times.
BUTTONHOLES: At the same time when piece measures approx 2-3 cm (measured in knitting direction) make buttonholes – see above.
SIDE DEC AND INC: At the same time when piece measures 6 cm dec at the side as described for back piece. When piece measures 24-24-24-28-28-28 cm inc at the side as described for back piece.
ARMHOLE: At the same time when piece measures 42-42-42-48-48-48 cm cast off for armhole at the beg of every row from the side: 4 sts 1 time, 3 sts 0-0-0-1-3-4 times, 2 sts 0-1-1-4-4-5 times and 1 st 3-3-3-2-4-5 times (you dec more sts for armhole on right front piece due to no of sts in cables).
After all inc towards front edge and dec for armhole are complete there are 82-88-96-96-96-98 sts on needle. After the last inc piece measures approx 53-53-53-61-61-61 cm. Work next row from mid front as follows: 5 garter sts, K2, * 2 garter sts, K2 tog 3 times *, repeat from *-* a total of 5-5-6-6-6-6 times, then work remaining sts on row as before = 67-73-78-78-78-80 sts. Turn and work the first 35-41-41-41-41-43 sts as before, slip the last 32-32-37-37-37-37 sts on a stitch holder for neck. Cast off to shape the neckline at beg of every row from mid front: 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 4 times = 27-33-33-33-33-35 sts left on shoulder. Continue in pattern as before with 1 edge st each side until piece measures approx 60-61-62-69-70-71 cm. On next row dec 2 sts on each cable = 21-25-25-25-25-27 sts, now cast off all sts.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Worked back and forth on needle.
Cast on 71-77-77-89-95-101 sts (includes 5 front band sts towards front edge and 1 edge st at the side) on needle size 4 mm with Karisma. K 1 row from WS and K 1 row from RS. Work next row as follows from WS (from mid front): 5 garter sts, P2, 2 garter sts, * P4, 2 garter sts *, repeat from *-* until 8 sts remain, P7 and 1 edge st in garter st.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Continue like this with garter st over garter st and stocking st over stocking st.
DEC FOR SLOPED FRONT EDGE: At the same time on row 4 dec 1 st towards front edge – SEE DECREASING TIP, repeat the dec on every 4th row a total of 42-42-42-48-48-48 times.
SIDE DEC AND INC: At the same time when piece measures 6 cm dec at the side as described for back piece. When piece measures 24-24-24-28-28-28 cm inc at the side as described for back piece.
ARMHOLE: At the same time when piece measures 42-42-42-48-48-48 cm cast off for armhole at the side as described for back piece (you have cast off more sts on right front piece). After all dec and inc are complete there are 22-26-26-26-26-28 sts left on needle (i.e. 1 st more than on the other shoulder). Continue until piece measures 61-62-63-70-71-72 cm, cast off with K over K and P over P.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on needle.
Cast on 66-66-66-74-74-82 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 4 mm with Karisma. K 1 row from WS and continue as follows: 2 garter sts (first st = edge st), then M.1 to end (last st = edge st). Continue like this until piece measures 14 cm. Work next row from RS as follows: K2, * K1, K2 tog, K2 tog, K1, K2 *, repeat from *-* to end = 50-50-50-56-56-62 sts. Continue in stocking st. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 15 cm inc 1 st each side, repeat the inc on every 3-2.5-2-2-1.5-1.5 cm a total of 11-13-16-15-18-17 times = 72-76-82-86-92-96 sts. When piece measures 49-48-47-46-45-44 cm (less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder) cast off for sleeve cap at the beg of every row each side: 4 sts 1 time, 2 sts 3 times, 1 st 3-5-6-7-9-10 times,
then 2 sts each side until piece measures 56 cm. Now cast off 4 sts 1 time each side, and cast off remaining sts. Sleeve measures approx 57 cm for all sizes.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew right shoulder seam.

NECKLINE:
Slip the 32-32-37-37-37-37 sts from stitch holder on right front piece back on needle size 4 mm, then pick up approx 20 to 30 sts up to the shoulder and approx 30 to 36 sts on back piece = approx 82 to 103 sts. K 1 row on all sts, cast off with K sts from RS.

FURTHER ASSEMBLY:
Sew left shoulder seam – sew the extra st towards the garter st along neck on back piece.
Set in sleeves, sew sleeve and side seams inside 1 edge st. Sew on buttons.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = K from WS
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K3, K3 from cable needle
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (51)

country flag Doris Lietz wrote:

Hallo. Bei mir sieht das Muster im re Vordeteil anders aus. Auf eurem Foto erscheint es, als wenn eine Querrippe zwischen den Zöpfen nach oben läuft. Laut Muster wird doch nur in jeder 4 Reihe 2 Maschen re und 6 li gestrickt. Liegt hier im Muster ein Fehler vor? LG Doris

13.05.2023 - 11:08

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Lietz, die Zunahmen beim rechten Vorderteil entstehen vor (bei Hinreihen) oder nach (bei Rückreihen) den ersten 9 Maschen (= 5 Blenden-Maschen kraus rechts + 2 Maschen glatt rechts + 2 Maschen kraus rechts). Kann das Ihnen helfen oder missverstehe ich Ihre Frage?

15.05.2023 - 08:14

country flag Kelly C wrote:

I am at the position of the pattern of 126 Cherry with the Twist where I am doing the armhole decreases on the back. The way it is written is kind of confusing. I am at the point where it says a string of numbers and then times to do it. I am not sure if I am supposed to decrease 3 sts 0-0-0-1-2-3 so does that mean for 6 rows I decrease 3 stitches?

02.01.2020 - 16:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kelly C, if you are working the last size, you will then cast off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows (= 3 times on each side). Happy knitting!

03.01.2020 - 09:48

country flag Alicia wrote:

Agradezco me confirmen si entendí correctamente la indicación de los aumentos de la espalda . Tejeré el talle M. ¿ Debo aumentar a los 6 cm un aumento de cada lado, repito a los 3 cm , otra vez a los 3 cm otra vez a los 3 cm , luego a los 5 cm , y el último a los 3 cm?

08.07.2019 - 01:09

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Alicia. Para la talla M los aumentos son los siguientes: Cuando la labor mida 24 cm, aumentar 1 punto a cada lado, repetir los aumentos cada 3 cm un total de 6 veces. Después de completar todos los aumentos hay 96 puntos.

10.07.2019 - 23:14

country flag April B wrote:

I’m not understanding right front instructions. Is the first inc. row saying to M1 five times across the row? If so it alters the set up for the cable pattern. Or is it M1 just in that place on RSrow for five different rows? Also, does the first cable cross take place on the fifth row from the cast on row?

10.04.2019 - 01:02

DROPS Design answered:

Dear April, the row before first row in M.1 is worked from WS, and the first row in M.1 will be worked from RS, so that when you finished WS row with K2, P2, K5, you work these stitches from RS: K5, K2, K2 (= 5 sts in garter st, 2 sts in stocking st and 2 sts in garter st), then the *K2,P6* from WS will be worked in M.1 with K6 (cable), K2 (= 2 sts in garter st). The cable in M.1 is worked on the 5th row worked in M.1. Happy knitting!

10.04.2019 - 10:18

country flag Anthonia Boer wrote:

Hallo Birgit, Ik wil heel graag dit vestje breien, maar ik kan nergens een winkel vinden, die de donker roze kleur nr. 39 verkoopt. En ook kan ik niet vinden hoeveel bollen ik nodig heb voor maat M. Ik hoop van harte dat U mij kan helpen. Bij voorbaat hartelijk dank. Vriendelijke groet.....Anthonia Boer.

19.08.2018 - 11:42

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Anthonia, Bovenaan bij materialen staat hoeveel gram je nodig hebt per maat: 500-550-600-700-750-800 gr. kleur nr. 39, donkerroze. Voor maat m het tweede getal, dus 550 gram. (Een bol weegt 50 gram). Je kunt het betreffende verkooppunt vragen of ze je op de hoogte willen houden wanneer deze kleur weer op voorraad is.

20.08.2018 - 08:13

country flag Helenor Dale wrote:

For the sleeve .. after M1, and then the RS row, the instruction is to continue in stocking stitch. Will this look like purl from the right side of the work?

15.04.2018 - 22:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Dale, sleeves are worked in stocking stitch after M.1 showing the K from the outside of work (= "standard" stocking st, not reversed stocking st showing the purl from the RS). Happy knitting!

16.04.2018 - 09:59

country flag Birgit Schroeter wrote:

Hallo, bin gerade dabei diese schöne Jacke zu stricken, aber was bedeutet bitte "gegen die Mitte" oder "die vordere Mitte" Maschen zunehmen? Vielen Dank,Gruß Birgit

21.05.2017 - 10:16

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Birgit, die Mitte beim jedem Vorderteil ist die mit den Blendemaschen. Wenn Sie gegen die vordere Mitte zunehmen sollen, werden Sie nach/vor den Blendemaschen zunehmen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

22.05.2017 - 08:54

country flag Beunckens Irène wrote:

Bedankt ik kan nu verder

05.01.2017 - 09:55

country flag Beunckens Irène wrote:

Heb een vraagje ivm met mindering armsgaten achterpand. Kan niet goed onderscheiden hoeveel ik moet minderen voor maat M. alvast bedankt en groetjes irène

28.12.2016 - 11:41

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Irène. Voor maat M werkt je als volgt: ARMSGATEN: Kant bij een hoogte van 42 cm af voor de armsgaten aan het begin van iedere nld aan iedere kant: 1 keer 4 st, 0 keer 3 st (dus overslaan), 1 keer 2 st en 3 keer 1 st = 78 st over na het afkanten voor de armsgaten.

30.12.2016 - 12:24

Veronica wrote:

Me encanto, ojalá pueda hacerlo pronto

23.12.2015 - 16:29