DROPS / 206 / 35

Powder Perfect by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with raglan in DROPS Polaris. Piece is knitted top down with double moss stitch vertically, cables and shawl collar. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern po-109
Yarn group F or E + E
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS POLARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group F)
1500-1600-1800-2000-2100-2400 g colour 01, off white

KNITTING TENSION:
7 stitches in width and 8 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 15 mm : Length 80 cm for pattern.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 4.10 £ /100g
DROPS Polaris uni colour DROPS Polaris uni colour 4.10 £ /100g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Polaris mix DROPS Polaris mix 4.70 £ /100g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 61.50£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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TIP FOR CHANGING YARN (applies when working with Polaris):
When switching ball with Polaris, split the old strand in two on the last 15 cm – cut off one part, do the same on the new strand. Place the first and last 15 cm on top of each other so that the yarn is the normal thickness and continue to work – this is done to make the strand switch invisible in the yarn.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

RAGLAN:
All increases are done from the right side.
Increase 1 stitch on each side of A.4 (= 8 stitches increased on row): Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in pattern A.3.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
First work 2 loose collar parts. Slip these on circular needle when casting on stitches for neck as explained in pattern (sew collar parts together mid back later and then sew neck line at the back of neck).
Then work yoke back and forth on circular needle from mid front, work top down. Sleeves are worked back and forth on circular needle top down, and sewn together when finished. Read TIP FOR CHANGING YARN.

LEFT COLLAR:
Cast on 8 stitches on circular needle size 15 mm with Polaris.
Work short rows back and forth as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit all stitches, turn.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Knit all stitches, turn.
ROW 3: Knit the first 5 stitches, turn.
ROW 4: Knit all stitches, turn
Repeat 1st-4th row until piece measures 7 cm along the shortest side on collar - adjust so that next row is from right side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Now work A.2a over all stitches (= 1 stitch increased) = 9 stitches. When A.2a has been worked, work A.2b over stitches until collar measures 10 cm from ridges on collar - and make sure to finish after a row from right side. Slip stitches on a stitch holder. Work right collar.

RIGHT COLLAR:
Cast on 8 stitches on circular needle size 15 mm with Polaris.
Work short rows back and forth as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit all stitches, turn.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Knit the first 5 stitches on row, turn.
ROW 3: Knit the 5 stitches, turn.
ROW 4: Knit all stitches on row, turn
Repeat 1st-4th row until piece measures 7 cm along the shortest side on collar - adjust so that next row is from right side. Now work A.1a over all stitches (= 1 stitch increased) = 9 stitches. When A.1a has been worked, work A.1b until collar measures 10 cm from ridges on collar - make sure to work same number of row in pattern as on left collar, and to finish after a row from right side.

NECK EDGE:
Now work parts together from wrong side as follows:
Work A.1b as before over the first 9 stitches on right collar, cast on 36-36-38-44-46-52 new stitches on needle, work A.2b as before over the 9 stitches from stitch holder on left collar = 54-54-56-62-64-70 stitches on needle. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of needle - NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

YOKE:
Now work pattern from right side as follows:
Work A.2b over the first 9 stitches, work A.3 over the next 2-2-2-4-4-6 stitches (= left front piece), make 1 yarn over, work A.4 (= 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over, work A.3 over the next 2 stitches (= sleeve), make 1 yarn over, work A.4 (= 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over, work A.3 over the next 12-12-14-16-18-20 stitches (= back piece), make 1 yarn over, work A.4 (= 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over, work A.3 over the next 2 stitches (= sleeve), make 1 yarn over, work A.4 (= 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over, work A.3 over the next 2-2-2-4-4-6 stitches and finish with A.1b over the last 9 stitches (= right front piece).
First increase for RAGLAN - read explanation above, is now done. Continue pattern back and forth like this and increase every other row 9-10-11-11-12-13 times in total (including first increase explained above). After last increase for raglan there are 126-134-144-150-160-174 stitches on needle. Work without increases until yoke measures 23-25-28-29-31-33 cm from marker thread.
Work next row from wrong side as follows:
Work 22-23-24-26-27-30 stitches as before (= front piece), slip the next 24-26-28-28-30-32 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 4-4-4-4-6-6 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve), work the next 34-36-40-42-46-50 stitches as before (= back piece), slip the next 24-26-28-28-30-32 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 4-4-4-4-6-6 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve) and work the 22-23-24-26-27-30 stitches as before (= front piece). Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 86-90-96-102-112-122 stitches. Continue back and forth with pattern as before, i.e. work A.1b/A.2b over the outermost 9 stitches in each side and work pattern A.3 over the remaining stitches.
Work until body measures 35-35-34-35-35-35 cm from division – adjust to finish after a whole repetition of A.1b/A.2b vertically. Cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Jacket measures approx. 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Work sleeves back and forth on circular needle and sew together when finished.
Slip the 24-26-28-28-30-32 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on circular needle needles size 15 mm and cast on 2-2-2-2-3-3 new stitches in each side = 28-30-32-32-36-38 stitches. Continue back and forth in pattern A.3. Work until sleeve measures 38-36-34-33-32-30 cm from division (try the jacket on and work until desired length) - adjust to finish after a row from wrong side. NOTE! Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider neck and longer yoke. Cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew seams under sleeves in outer loops of edge stitches to avoid a chunky seam. Sew collar together mid back so that seam is facing inwards when collar is folded down, and sew collar to neckline at the back of neck.

Diagram

= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
= slip 4 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
= slip 4 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next row work yarn over twisted to avoid holes


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 206-35) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (11)

Renders-Koninckx 23.02.2020 - 16:27:

Zou het mogelijk zijn om mij dit patroon van de onder kant te beginnen door te sturen? Met dank

DROPS Design 23.02.2020 kl. 16:51:

Dag Renders-Koninckx,

Helaas is dit patroon er alleen met beschrijving van boven naar beneden. Je zou hem zelf kunnen omzetten door alles a.h.w. omgekeerd te doen. Het aantal steken dat je afkant zet je op, het aantal minderingen, enzovoort.

Fuhrer 18.10.2019 - 16:41:

Bonjour, quand allez vous mettre les explications ??? gilet trop beau hate de le faire ..j espere avant l'été prochain !!! lol merci

Veronique31 07.10.2019 - 10:50:

Proposé au mois de juin et toujours pas d'explications... Normalement un ouvrage realiséen été se porte en automne ...

Rosemary Gallagher 18.08.2019 - 20:15:

This is gorgeous, my next make for myself!

Rossi Marie Jeanne 22.07.2019 - 18:15:

J' adorerais le faire pour m'enveloppé dedans un monde de douceur et de chaleur

Laperrière 10.06.2019 - 11:03:

Il est superbe ce modèle j adore tout le travail qu' il y a dedans.

Olga Visser 09.06.2019 - 21:49:

Deze is prachtig

Ellis 09.06.2019 - 20:21:

Again snowwoman ;-)

Beatrice DELEPINE 08.06.2019 - 12:58:

Je l'aime beaucoup et plus encore en pull.

Katherine 08.06.2019 - 07:52:

Love, Love, Love this! I wish it was crochet, but I just might learn to knit just so I could have this. It has everything going for it - Texture, opens down the front, long (ish), do my eyes see a hood? Love that too. Also, love the second view where it is easier to see that the sleeves and the hem flare. So cute.

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