DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 34.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24

Heim

Knitted jumper in DROPS Alpaca. The piece is worked top down with round yoke and Nordic pattern on the yoke. Sizes S - XXXL. Knitted hat with Nordic pattern in DROPS Alpaca.

DROPS 207-1
DROPS Design: Pattern no z-869
Yarn group A
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WHOLE SET:

SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Fits head size: 54/56 - 54/56 - 56/58 - 56/58 - 58/60 - 58/60 cm

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
300-300-350-400-400-450 g colour 7233, olive
50-100-100-100-100-100 g colour 6309, medium petrol
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 100, off white
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 7139, dark grey green
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 4305 dark indigo

JUMPER:

SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
300-300-350-350-400-450 g colour 7233, olive
50-50-50-50-50-100 g colour 6309, medium petrol
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 100, off white
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 7139, dark grey green
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 4305 dark indigo

KNITTING TENSION:
23 stitches in width and 30 rows in height with stocking stitch and Nordic pattern = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm for stocking stitch and Nordic pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

HAT:

SIZES:
S/M - M/L - L/XL
Fits head size: 54/56 - 56/58 - 58/60 cm

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-50-50 g colour 7233, olive
50-50-50 g colour 6309, medium petrol
50-50-50 g colour 100, off white
50-50-50 g colour 7139, dark grey green
50-50-50 g colour 4305 dark indigo

KNITTING TENSION:
23 stitches in width and 30 rows in height with stocking stitch and Nordic pattern = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: Length 40 cm for stocking stitch and Nordic pattern.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM: Length 40 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Colour combinations shown are (in the same order as the materials list above):

A) DROPS ALPACA 607, 2923, 2020, 2915, 5565.
B) DROPS ALPACA 517, 3900, 9020, 3770, 3969.
C) DROPS ALPACA 601, 7238, 100, 2916, 7815.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 34.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 104 stitches) and divide by the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 34) = 3.1. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 3rd stitch. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. When decreasing knit together approx. each 2nd and 3rd stitch.

ELEVATION (back of neck):
To make the jumper slightly higher at the back of the neck when working yoke you can work an elevation as described here. Skip this section if you do not want an elevation.
Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round (mid back). Start from the right side with medium petrol and knit 11-12-12-13-13-14 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl 22-24-24-26-26-28 stitches back. Turn, tighten strand and knit 33-36-36-39-39-42 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl 44-48-48-52-52-56 stitches back. Turn, tighten strand and knit 55-60-60-65-65-70 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl 66-72-72-78-78-84 stitches. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 77-84-84-91-91-98 stitches, turn tighten the strand and purl 88-96-96-104-104-112 stitches. Turn tighten the strand and knit back to mid back. Then work YOKE as described in the text.

PATTERN: 
Jumper: See diagram A.1. Choose diagram for your size.
Hat: See diagram A.2.
The whole pattern is worked in stocking stitch.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the knitting tension becoming tighter when working pattern it is important that the strands at the back are not tight. Use a size larger needle when working pattern if this is a problem.

INCREASE TIP-1 (for sides of body):
Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 6 (marker thread sits between these 6 stitches) make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased at each marker thread; 4 stitches increased on round).
On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. 

DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeve): 
Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle, or make 1 yarn over after approx. each 8th stitch at the same time as casting off (yarn overs cast off as normal stitches).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves. The body is continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 104-108-112-116-120-124 stitches with short circular needle size 3 mm and medium petrol. Knit 1 round and then work rib in the round (= knit 2 /purl 2) for 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm.
When the rib is finished knit 1 round where you increase 34-36-38-40-42-44 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 138-144-150-156-162-168 stitches. Knit 1 round (yarn overs knitted twisted). Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the round (= mid front) – the yoke will be measured from this marker!
Now you can work an ELEVATION in the back of the neck – read description above. If you do not want an elevation, go straight to YOKE.

YOKE:
Work stocking stitch in the round with medium petrol.
When the piece measures 1½-1½-2-2-2-2 cm from the marker mid front, increase 34-36-40-46-48-52 stitches evenly spaced = 172-180-190-202-210-220 stitches.
When the piece measures 2½-2½-3-3-3-3 cm from the marker mid front, increase 28-36-38-42-46-48 stitches evenly spaced = 200-216-228-244-256-268 stitches.
When the piece measures 3-3-4-4-4-4 cm from the marker mid front, start working A.1 in the round (= 50-54-57-61-64-67 repeats of 4 stitches). Continue this pattern. Read KNITTING TIP and REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
AT THE SAME TIME on each round marked with an arrow in A.1, increase stitches evenly as described below:
Arrow-1: Increase 36-36-40-44-44-52 stitches evenly spaced = 236-252-268-288-300-320 stitches (there is now room for 59-63-67-72-75-80 repeats of A.1 with 4 stitches).
Arrow-2: Increase 40-42-50-54-60-64 stitches evenly spaced = 276-294-318-342-360-384 stitches (there is now room for 46-49-53-57-60-64 repeats of A.1 with 6 stitches).
Arrow-3: Increase 20-26-30-34-44-48 stitches evenly spaced = 296-320-348-376-404-432 stitches (there is now room for 74-80-87-94-101-108 repeats of A.1 with 4 stitches).
Arrow-4: Increase 12-20-24-24-28-32 stitches evenly spaced = 308-340-372-400-432-464 stitches (there is now room for 77-85-93-100-108-116 repeats of A.1 with 4 stitches).
When A.1 has been completed continue with stocking stitch and olive. AT THE SAME TIME on the first round after A.1, increase 2-6-6-10-6-14 stitches evenly spaced = 310-346-378-410-438-478 stitches.
Work until the piece measures 20-22-24-25-27-29 cm from the marker on the neck.
Divide the yoke for body and sleeves, working the next round with olive as follows: Work 46-51-54-60-66-73 stitches in stocking stitch (= ½ back piece), place the next 62-70-80-84-86-92 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work 93-103-109-121-133-147 stitches in stocking stitch (= front piece), place the next 62-70-80-84-86-92 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve) and work the remaining 47-52-55-61-67-74 stitches in stocking stitch (= ½ back piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 202-222-238-262-290-318 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread on each side of the body in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve. Allow the threads to follow your work onwards; they will be used when increasing in the sides.
Start the round at one of the marker threads and work stocking stitch in the round with olive.
When the piece measures 5 cm from the division in all sizes increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 5-5-5-4-4-4 cm a total of 5-5-5-6-6-6 times on each side = 222-242-258-286-314-342 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 30 cm from the division (there is approx. 3 cm to finished length; you can try the jumper on and continue working to desired length).
Knit 1 round where you increase 74-82-86-98-106-114 stitches evenly spaced = 296-324-344-384-420-456 stitches (this is done so the rib is not tight).
Change to circular needle size 3 mm and work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 3 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING OFF TIP! The jumper measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 62-70-80-84-86-92 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 70-78-90-94-98-104 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches and allow it to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing mid under sleeve.
Start the round at the marker thread and work stocking stitch in the round with olive.
When the piece measures 3 cm from the division in all sizes decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3½-2½-1½-1½-1½-1 cm a total of 10-13-19-19-19-22 times = 50-52-52-56-60-60 stitches.
Continue working until the sleeve measures 37-36-35-33-32-30 cm from the division (there is approx. 7 cm to finished length; you can try the jumper on and continue working to desired length). NOTE: Shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke.
Knit 1 round where you increase 18-20-20-20-20-20 stitches evenly spaced = 68-72-72-76-80-80 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 7 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember CASTING OFF TIP. The sleeve measures approx. 44-43-42-40-39-37 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

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HAT – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with short circular needle, bottom up. Change to double pointed needles when necessary.

HAT:
Cast on 116-120-124 stitches with circular needle size 2.5 mm and medium petrol. Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 3-4-4 cm. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm and knit 1 round where you increase 24 stitches evenly spaced in all sizes – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 140-144-148 stitches.
Work A.2 in the round (= 35-36-37 repeats of 4 stitches). Continue this pattern. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! 
AT THE SAME TIME on each round marked with an arrow in A.2, decrease stitches evenly spaced as described below:
Arrow-1: Decrease 8-6-4 stitches evenly spaced = 132-138-144 stitches. Continue the pattern (there is now room for 22-23-24 repeats of 6 stitches).
Arrow-2: Decrease 24-26-28 stitches evenly spaced = 108-112-116 stitches. Continue the pattern (there is now room for 27-28-29 repeats of 4 stitches).
Arrow-3: Decrease 24-24-24 stitches evenly spaced = 84-88-92 stitches. Continue the pattern (there is now room for 21-22-23 repeats of 4 stitches).
When A.2 has been completed continue with olive as follows: Knit 3-3-4 rounds, * knit 1 round where all the stitches are knitted together 2 and 2, knit 5-5-6 rounds *, work from *-* 1 more time. Then knit 1 round where all the stitches are knitted together 2 and 2 = 11-11-12 stitches left. Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well. The hat measures approx. 23-24-25 cm from the top down.

Diagram

symbols = medium petrol
symbols = olive
symbols = dark grey green
symbols = off white
symbols = dark indigo
symbols = increase/decrease round
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (60)

country flag Irene Wüst wrote:

Ich möchte gerne diesen Pullover mit Rollkragen stricken. Können sie mir eine passende Anleitung geben? Das wäre toll!

12.03.2024 - 13:10

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Wüst, von diesen Modellen können Sie sich inspirieren = selbe Maschenprobe sowie Rundpasse, um einen Rollkragen zu stricken. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

12.03.2024 - 15:43

country flag Birgitta Holmstrand wrote:

Jag vill sticka denna modell i färger enligt alt. C. När jag skall beställa garnet står det färg 601 - men den finns inte i ert sortement. Vad skall man då ta för färg som passar? Har stickat den i ursprungsfärgerna - den blev jättefin. Vill nu sticka en till i annan färg Bästa hälsningar Birgitta Holmstrand

08.02.2024 - 12:15

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Birgitta. Ja, dessverre er farge 601 utgått fra vårt sortiment. Men ta en titt på farge 607, brun mix. Den er noe lysere, men en flott farge som vil passe fint. Eller kanskje en av de mørke grønne fargene vi har DROPS Alpaca eller hva med en dyp rødtone farge (9025, 3650, 5565). Veldig mange farger å velge i og vanskelig å gi råd da farger er ganske personlig :) mvh DROPS Design

16.02.2024 - 11:04

country flag Patricia Vanstippen wrote:

Is het ook mogelijk om de patronen van beneden naar boven te breien?

23.01.2024 - 17:50

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Patricia,

Dit patroon is geschreven om van boven naar beneden te breien en het is voor ons helaas niet mogelijk om patronen aan te passen naar persoonlijke wensen. Als je hem andersom wilt breien, zou je alles a.h.w. omgekeerd moeten doen, dus minderen waar je moet meerderen, opzetten waar je afkant, etc. Ook het telpatroon zou dan andersom moeten.

24.01.2024 - 09:41

country flag Jo wrote:

Hi. I just finished knitting this sweater in Drops alpaca wool and am wondering if I should wet block it to help with some uneven stitches. The wool product I have (Eucalan) says I should let it soak for 15 minutes but the washing instructions on the wool say not to soak it. Would you recommend wet blocking this garment and should I soak it or not? Thanks

30.11.2023 - 22:26

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jo, you can either wash it or wet block it, just follow in all cases the washing instructions; your DROPS store can give you more tips.& advices, even per mail or telephone. Happy knitting!

01.12.2023 - 08:31

country flag Anette wrote:

Hej Jag funderar över diagrammet när man ska öka rad 4 vid pilen 1 ...om jag ökar jämt fördelat så får jag inte diagrammet o stämma längre ?

06.10.2023 - 22:23

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Anette. Det skal det heller ikke. Dette er øverst i halsen og mønstret/halskanten vi strekke seg utover, så det spiller ingen rolle at det du ser på diagrammet ikke stemmer overens lengre. Bare følg diagrammet og økningen som er forklart i oppskriften, så blir det riktig. mvh DROPS Design

16.10.2023 - 13:28

country flag Norsk wrote:

Rebonjour, Je me rends compte que ma première question n'a pas été enregistrée. Pour le modèle Heim avec d'autres couleurs : A) DROPS ALPACA 607, 2923, 2020, 2915, 5565. B) DROPS ALPACA 517, 3900, 9020, 3770, 3969. Avez-vous d'autres propositions avec un ecouleur prépondérante plus vive ? Je vous remercie !

07.04.2023 - 15:50

DROPS Design answered:

Re- cf réponse ci-dessous, votre magasin pourra vous proposer différentes associations en fonction de vos goûts et de ce que vous recherchez. Bon tricot!

11.04.2023 - 12:10

country flag Norks wrote:

Bonjour, Pour le modèle B), la couleur 3969 n'existe plus. Pouvez-vous indiquer une couleur de remplacement ? J'ai posé une autre question à propos des couleurs mais je n'ai pas reçu de réponse. Bon week-end !

07.04.2023 - 14:38

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Norks, pour toute assistance au choix d'une couleur, merci de bien vouloir contacter directement votre magasin, on pourra ainsi vous aider, même par mail ou téléphone. Bon tricot!

11.04.2023 - 12:09

country flag Jo Crawford wrote:

Hi I couldn’t tell from the pattern when to switch from short circular needle to the longer one. Can you please clarify. First time knitting a sweater!

08.03.2023 - 19:12

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Jo, You can use the short circular needle until there are too many stitches for it to be comfortable (usually when you have increased stitches after the neck). Happy knitting!

09.03.2023 - 07:07

country flag Maggie wrote:

Hi if you need to increase every 5.3 stitches or every 3.4 , how do you actually do this ? Thank you

20.02.2023 - 17:07

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Maggie, this lesson explains how to increase evenly - see example 1 - you will round down to 5 or to 3. Happy knitting!

21.02.2023 - 09:57

country flag Cecilia Henfridsson wrote:

Det är bra om ni skriver i beskrivningen av mössan att mönstret A2 ska läsas uppgift och ner.

20.11.2022 - 13:16