DROPS / 207 / 1

Heim by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper in DROPS Alpaca. The piece is worked top down with round yoke and Nordic pattern on the yoke. Sizes S - XXXL. Knitted hat with Nordic pattern in DROPS Alpaca.

DROPS Design: Pattern no z-869
Yarn group A
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WHOLE SET:

SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Fits head size: 54/56 - 54/56 - 56/58 - 56/58 - 58/60 - 58/60 cm

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
300-300-350-400-400-450 g colour 7233, olive
50-100-100-100-100-100 g colour 6309, medium petrol
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 100, off white
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 7139, dark grey green
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 4305 dark indigo

JUMPER:

SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
300-300-350-350-400-450 g colour 7233, olive
50-50-50-50-50-100 g colour 6309, medium petrol
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 100, off white
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 7139, dark grey green
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 4305 dark indigo

KNITTING TENSION:
23 stitches in width and 30 rows in height with stocking stitch and Nordic pattern = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm for stocking stitch and Nordic pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

HAT:

SIZES:
S/M - M/L - L/XL
Fits head size: 54/56 - 56/58 - 58/60 cm

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-50-50 g colour 7233, olive
50-50-50 g colour 6309, medium petrol
50-50-50 g colour 100, off white
50-50-50 g colour 7139, dark grey green
50-50-50 g colour 4305 dark indigo

KNITTING TENSION:
23 stitches in width and 30 rows in height with stocking stitch and Nordic pattern = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: Length 40 cm for stocking stitch and Nordic pattern.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM: Length 40 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Colour combinations shown are (in the same order as the materials list above):

A) DROPS ALPACA 607, 2923, 2020, 2915, 5565.
B) DROPS ALPACA 517, 3900, 9020, 3770, 3969.
C) DROPS ALPACA 601, 7238, 100, 2916, 7815.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 3.20 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 32.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 104 stitches) and divide by the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 34) = 3.1. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 3rd stitch. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. When decreasing knit together approx. each 2nd and 3rd stitch.

ELEVATION (back of neck):
To make the jumper slightly higher at the back of the neck when working yoke you can work an elevation as described here. Skip this section if you do not want an elevation.
Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round (mid back). Start from the right side with medium petrol and knit 11-12-12-13-13-14 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl 22-24-24-26-26-28 stitches back. Turn, tighten strand and knit 33-36-36-39-39-42 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl 44-48-48-52-52-56 stitches back. Turn, tighten strand and knit 55-60-60-65-65-70 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl 66-72-72-78-78-84 stitches. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 77-84-84-91-91-98 stitches, turn tighten the strand and purl 88-96-96-104-104-112 stitches. Turn tighten the strand and knit back to mid back. Then work YOKE as described in the text.

PATTERN: 
Jumper: See diagram A.1. Choose diagram for your size.
Hat: See diagram A.2.
The whole pattern is worked in stocking stitch.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the knitting tension becoming tighter when working pattern it is important that the strands at the back are not tight. Use a size larger needle when working pattern if this is a problem.

INCREASE TIP-1 (for sides of body):
Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 6 (marker thread sits between these 6 stitches) make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased at each marker thread; 4 stitches increased on round).
On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. 

DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeve): 
Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle, or make 1 yarn over after approx. each 8th stitch at the same time as casting off (yarn overs cast off as normal stitches).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves. The body is continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 104-108-112-116-120-124 stitches with short circular needle size 3 mm and medium petrol. Knit 1 round and then work rib in the round (= knit 2 /purl 2) for 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm.
When the rib is finished knit 1 round where you increase 34-36-38-40-42-44 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 138-144-150-156-162-168 stitches. Knit 1 round (yarn overs knitted twisted). Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the round (= mid front) – the yoke will be measured from this marker!
Now you can work an ELEVATION in the back of the neck – read description above. If you do not want an elevation, go straight to YOKE.

YOKE:
Work stocking stitch in the round with medium petrol.
When the piece measures 1½-1½-2-2-2-2 cm from the marker mid front, increase 34-36-40-46-48-52 stitches evenly spaced = 172-180-190-202-210-220 stitches.
When the piece measures 2½-2½-3-3-3-3 cm from the marker mid front, increase 28-36-38-42-46-48 stitches evenly spaced = 200-216-228-244-256-268 stitches.
When the piece measures 3-3-4-4-4-4 cm from the marker mid front, start working A.1 in the round (= 50-54-57-61-64-67 repeats of 4 stitches). Continue this pattern. Read KNITTING TIP and REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
AT THE SAME TIME on each round marked with an arrow in A.1, increase stitches evenly as described below:
Arrow-1: Increase 36-36-40-44-44-52 stitches evenly spaced = 236-252-268-288-300-320 stitches (there is now room for 59-63-67-72-75-80 repeats of A.1 with 4 stitches).
Arrow-2: Increase 40-42-50-54-60-64 stitches evenly spaced = 276-294-318-342-360-384 stitches (there is now room for 46-49-53-57-60-64 repeats of A.1 with 6 stitches).
Arrow-3: Increase 20-26-30-34-44-48 stitches evenly spaced = 296-320-348-376-404-432 stitches (there is now room for 74-80-87-94-101-108 repeats of A.1 with 4 stitches).
Arrow-4: Increase 12-20-24-24-28-32 stitches evenly spaced = 308-340-372-400-432-464 stitches (there is now room for 77-85-93-100-108-116 repeats of A.1 with 4 stitches).
When A.1 has been completed continue with stocking stitch and olive. AT THE SAME TIME on the first round after A.1, increase 2-6-6-10-6-14 stitches evenly spaced = 310-346-378-410-438-478 stitches.
Work until the piece measures 20-22-24-25-27-29 cm from the marker on the neck.
Divide the yoke for body and sleeves, working the next round with olive as follows: Work 46-51-54-60-66-73 stitches in stocking stitch (= ½ back piece), place the next 62-70-80-84-86-92 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work 93-103-109-121-133-147 stitches in stocking stitch (= front piece), place the next 62-70-80-84-86-92 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve) and work the remaining 47-52-55-61-67-74 stitches in stocking stitch (= ½ back piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 202-222-238-262-290-318 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread on each side of the body in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve. Allow the threads to follow your work onwards; they will be used when increasing in the sides.
Start the round at one of the marker threads and work stocking stitch in the round with olive.
When the piece measures 5 cm from the division in all sizes increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 5-5-5-4-4-4 cm a total of 5-5-5-6-6-6 times on each side = 222-242-258-286-314-342 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 30 cm from the division (there is approx. 3 cm to finished length; you can try the jumper on and continue working to desired length).
Knit 1 round where you increase 74-82-86-98-106-114 stitches evenly spaced = 296-324-344-384-420-456 stitches (this is done so the rib is not tight).
Change to circular needle size 3 mm and work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 3 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING OFF TIP! The jumper measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 62-70-80-84-86-92 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 70-78-90-94-98-104 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches and allow it to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing mid under sleeve.
Start the round at the marker thread and work stocking stitch in the round with olive.
When the piece measures 3 cm from the division in all sizes decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3½-2½-1½-1½-1½-1 cm a total of 10-13-19-19-19-22 times = 50-52-52-56-60-60 stitches.
Continue working until the sleeve measures 37-36-35-33-32-30 cm from the division (there is approx. 7 cm to finished length; you can try the jumper on and continue working to desired length). NOTE: Shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke.
Knit 1 round where you increase 18-20-20-20-20-20 stitches evenly spaced = 68-72-72-76-80-80 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 7 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember CASTING OFF TIP. The sleeve measures approx. 44-43-42-40-39-37 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

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HAT – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with short circular needle, bottom up. Change to double pointed needles when necessary.

HAT:
Cast on 116-120-124 stitches with circular needle size 2.5 mm and medium petrol. Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 3-4-4 cm. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm and knit 1 round where you increase 24 stitches evenly spaced in all sizes – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 140-144-148 stitches.
Work A.2 in the round (= 35-36-37 repeats of 4 stitches). Continue this pattern. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! 
AT THE SAME TIME on each round marked with an arrow in A.2, decrease stitches evenly spaced as described below:
Arrow-1: Decrease 8-6-4 stitches evenly spaced = 132-138-144 stitches. Continue the pattern (there is now room for 22-23-24 repeats of 6 stitches).
Arrow-2: Decrease 24-26-28 stitches evenly spaced = 108-112-116 stitches. Continue the pattern (there is now room for 27-28-29 repeats of 4 stitches).
Arrow-3: Decrease 24-24-24 stitches evenly spaced = 84-88-92 stitches. Continue the pattern (there is now room for 21-22-23 repeats of 4 stitches).
When A.2 has been completed continue with olive as follows: Knit 3-3-4 rounds, * knit 1 round where all the stitches are knitted together 2 and 2, knit 5-5-6 rounds *, work from *-* 1 more time. Then knit 1 round where all the stitches are knitted together 2 and 2 = 11-11-12 stitches left. Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well. The hat measures approx. 23-24-25 cm from the top down.

Diagram

= medium petrol
= olive
= dark grey green
= off white
= dark indigo
= increase/decrease round




Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 207-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (29)

Sara 09.05.2020 - 12:22:

Hejhej, jättefint mönster. Ville bara säga att under " Hela Settet - GARNÅTGÅNG", så har ni råkat kopiera enbart tröjans garnåtgång, och inte inkluderat antalet för mössan. Råkade märka det nu när jag skulle börja och saknade massa nystan...

Bousquet 30.04.2020 - 13:01:

Bonjour...quand vous parlez d'augmentation, il est demandé de faire un jeté, puis de tricoter ensuite ce jeté torse à l'endroit pour éviter les trous... mais n'est-ce pas plus simple de faire une augmentation autrement que par un jeté ? ( Puisque le jeté fait un trou..) Merci beaucoup de votre réponse... Cécile

DROPS Design 30.04.2020 kl. 14:41:

Bonjour Mme Bousquet, les augmentations sont souvent faites avec des jetés, vous pouvez la plupart du temps les remplacer par un autre type d'augmentations, n'hésitez pas à essayer sur un échantillon (lavé/séché) afin d'en apprécier le rendu. Bon tricot!

Britt Unni Herskedal 25.02.2020 - 14:03:

Skal strikke denne genseren, Heim. Finner ikke mål på de ulike størrelsene i oppskriften! Dette gjelder genseren, mål på lue står to ganger. Under størrelse på genser står bare S-M- osv, ingen mål.

DROPS Design 26.02.2020 kl. 07:23:

Hei Britt Unni, Det finnes en skisse helt i bunnen av oppskriften som gir deg mål for de forskjellige størrelsene på genseren. God fornøyelse!

Marion 23.02.2020 - 17:13:

Bonjour. J'ai effectué la 1ère série d'augmentations de A1. Comment faire pour que le motif reste aligné pour la suite ? Si on ajoute des mailles, on a forcément un décalage du motif. Je précise que j'ai utilisé la méthode que vous préconisez. Merci pour votre aide. Marion

DROPS Design 24.02.2020 kl. 10:08:

Bonjour Marion, vous continuez à répéter les 4 mailles de A.1 de la même façon qu'avant, effectivement, ils ne vont pas s'aligner exactement comme dans le diagramme mais comme sur la photo. Bon tricot!

Rita 07.01.2020 - 19:48:

Hei😊 Her er sååå mange fine oppskrifter på gensere med rundfelling og raglan!😍 Fikk lyst å strikke Heim- genser....Men, hvorfor er omtrent alle oppskriftene strikket ovenfra og ned? Skulle ønske det var oppskrift nedenfra og opp. Bare et hjertesukk...

DROPS Design 09.01.2020 kl. 07:20:

Hei Rita, Hvis du setter inn 'genser strikket nedenfra og opp' får du en liste av gensere strikket på denne måten. God fornøyelse!

Corinna 16.12.2019 - 16:25:

Hey Dropspeople, attached my 2nd question reg. the HEIM jumper: once I have increased 36 stitches in row 4 of the pattern and want to continue with the pattern with colour dark grey green I don´t know with a pattern of 4 evenly distributed stitches how to hit the pattern again (the first olive pattern) ,so that it looks evenly. The problem is, that there are now much more stitches because of the increase. How do I solve that? thanks a lot for your help!! Corinna

DROPS Design 17.12.2019 kl. 09:16:

Dear Corinna, you will find here how to increase stitches evenly - you increase when working A.1 and the increase rows (= with an arrow) are worked with only one colour. On the row after increase, just work the new stitches as shown in diagram (and work yarn over twisted to avoid holes). Happy knitting!

Corinna 16.12.2019 - 16:23:

Hey Dropspeople, I´m currently knitting the HEIM jumper in size S but haven´t done this type of fair isle knitting before. Actually I have a question regarding increasing while knitting the pattern, I´m just about to increase from 200 to 236 stitches : in the beginning the pattern always shows 4 stitches: 1 question is) if I want to increase now (4th row of the pattern) and calculate how much it shows that I have to increase 1 every 5,5 stitch, which is not evenly - how do I do that?

Kristin Erin Lynn 01.11.2019 - 04:09:

Hej! I am Norska/Svenska but grew up in the USA. I would like to knit this jumper and hat for myself but I am unsure on my size which is usually a small in US size. I am hoping you might be able to give me the list of what I need or just a package of all the yarn + pattern or perhaps theren is a local store in Seattle? . I most likely have the needles but I'm a bit confused on which yarn I need. any help appreciated.

DROPS Design 04.11.2019 kl. 14:54:

Dear Mrs Erin Lynn, you will find DROPS stores shipping to USA here. Happy knitting!

Kristine 02.10.2019 - 11:54:

Hei, jeg mener 2, 3 eller 4 cm... Skrev feil! Takk for at du svarte. Tror jeg har forstått det nå. 😊

DROPS Design 02.10.2019 kl. 12:25:

Super Kristine :)

Kristine 30.09.2019 - 15:58:

Har et spørsmål ang bærestykket, det står at man skal øke masker etter 2,3 og 4 masker etter merketråden midf foran. Betyr dette at man flytter merketråden, eller er det målt fra det første merket. Så er det faktisk 4 cm før man begynner på mønster, eller er det 9 cm? På forhånd takk.

DROPS Design 02.10.2019 kl. 11:44:

Hej Kristine, du sætter mærketråden når du har skiftet til p 3,5 herfra måles bærestykket. Jeg kan ikke følge dig når d skriver at du øker efter 2,3 og 4 maske.... Hvilken størrelse strikker du? Spørg også gerne i butikken hvor du har købt dit DROPS garn. :)

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