Here's Roger! by DROPS Design

Crocheted Alpaca or Lama in 2 strands DROPS Andes or Snow.

DROPS design: Pattern an-005-bn
Yarn group E + E or F
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SIZE:
Alpaca is approx. 50 cm high and 25 cm long

MATERIALS:
DROPS ANDES from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
400 g colour 4276, misty rose
Or use:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
400 g colour 13, powder

And use for nose and mouth:
Some left-over dark grey.

And for blanket use:
Blanket is crocheted with 2 strands Andes or Snow left-over yarn in 10 different colours, each strand approx. 4 meters (= 2 strands of 4 meters in each colour).
Example of colour combination 1, in Andes:
3755 cerise
0100 off white
7820 green
6295 denim blue
8903 black
3410 amethyst
3755 cerise
7320 pistachio
7130 sea green
0100 off white

Example of colour combination 2, in Andes:
3755 cerise
3145 powder pink
3620 christmas red
5610 brown
5310 light brown
3755 cerise
3145 powder pink
5610 brown
3620 christmas red
3740 coral

And for hat:
DROPS ANDES (From garnstudio – belongs to yarn group E)
approx. 40 g, 3620 christmas red
6 strands of left-over yarn in different colours, measureing approx. 15-20 cm each – for tassels

CROCHET TENSION:
8 double crochets in width and 10 rows vertically = 10 x 10 cm.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 8 mm
Hook size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger hook. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller hook.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 4.30 £ /100g
DROPS Andes uni colour DROPS Andes uni colour 4.30 £ /100g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Andes mix DROPS Andes mix 4.60 £ /100g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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CROCHET TIP-1:
Work rounds without a transition (i.e. as a spiral). I.e.: Work in the round without stopping, there is a marker thread marking the rounds beginning and ending - do not work a slip stitch at the end of every round.

Crochet together-1:
Work 4 TREBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER to 1 treble crochet as follows:
* Make 1 yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, get yarn, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through the 2 first loops on hook *, repeat from *-* 3 more times, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through all 5 loops on hook (= 3 treble crochets decreased).

Crochet together-2:
Work 2 DOUBLE CROCHETS together into 1 double crochet as follows:
Insert hook in next stitch, get yarn *, repeat from *-* one more time, make a yarn over and pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook = 1 double crochet decreased.
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START THE PIECE HERE:

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ALPACA - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work entire piece in double yarn. Piece is worked in the round from top of head and down, then cast on for body and work downwards to the legs. Then fill the alpaca with some cotton wool and sew together under stomach, then work top of head together, while working the ears.

HEAD/BODY:
Work 19 chain stitches on hook size 8 mm with 2 strands with the colour of alpaca.
ROUND 1: Work this row into a ring by working 2 double crochets in first chain stitch, then work 1 double crochet in every chain stitch = 20 double crochets on round. Insert a marker at beginning of round. Work in a spiral - read CROCHET TIP-1 in explanation above.
ROUND 2: Work 1 double crochet in each stitch.
ROUND 3: Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 3 stitches, 1 half treble crochet in next stitch, 2 treble crochets + 1 double treble crochet in next stitch, 1 double treble crochet and 2 treble crochets in next stitch, 1 half treble crochet in next stitch, then work 1 double crochet in each of the next 13 stitches - 4 stitches have been increased for nose = 24 stitches on round.
ROUND 4 and 5: Work 1 double crochet in every stitch. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
ROUND 6: Work 1 double crochets in each of the first 4 stitches, work the next 4 stitches together into 1 stitch - read CROCHET TOGETHER-1 in explanation above, work the next 4 stitches together into 1 stitch - read CROCHET TOGETHER-1 in explanation above, then work 1 double crochets in each of the next 12 stitches - 6 stitches have been decreased for nose = 18 stitches on round.
ROUND 7 to 18: Work 1 double crochet in each stitch (= neck).
ROUND 19: Work 17 new chain stitches, turn piece and work back in these chain stitches as follows: In the 2nd stitch from hook work 2 double crochets, work 2 double crochets in each of the next 2 stitches ( =the tail) - 13 chain stitches remain.
Work 1 double crochet in every chain stitch and then work 18 double crochets around the neck, then work double crochets towards the tail in same chain stitch row but on opposite side as follows: 1 double crochet in each of the 13 chain stitches towards the tail. Round now begins and ends under the tail, and there are 44 stitches around the body.
ROUND 20: Lift the tail so that the body can be worked in the round, work 1 double crochet in each stitch.
ROUND 21 to 32: Work 1 double crochet in each stitch = 13 rounds in total for body.
Now work the legs of the alpaca, begin mid back.

FIRST LEG = RIGHT BACK LEG.
ROUND 1: Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 9 stitches, work 9 chain stitches.
ROUND 2: Work 1 double crochet in the first of the 9 double crochets, this is now a circle, and continue piece in the round with 1 double crochet in each double crochet and 1 double crochet in each chain stitch = 18 stitches. Insert a marker at beginning of round.
ROUND 3 to 4: Work 1 double crochet in each stitch.
ROUND 5: Now work all stitches together 2 by 2 - read CROCHET TOGETHER-2 in explanation above = 9 double crochets on round.
ROUND 6 to 12: Work 1 double crochet in each stitch. Cut the yarn. Fold the circle flat together and sew hole together so that leg is flat and wide in the same direction as body.

SECOND LEG = RIGHT FRONT LEG:
Skip 4 stitches (= mid under stomach).
ROUND 1: Work 1 double crochet in each of the front 9 stitches on the right side of body, then work 9 chain stitches.
ROUND 2: Work 1 double crochet in the first of the 9 double crochets, this is now a circle, and continue piece in the round with 1 double crochet in each double crochet and 1 double crochet in each chain stitch = 18 stitches. Insert a marker at beginning of round.
ROUND 3 to 4: Work 1 double crochet in each stitch.
ROUND 5: Now work all stitches together 2 by 2 - read CROCHET TOGETHER-2 in explanation above = 9 double crochets on round.
ROUND 6 to 12: Work 1 double crochet in each stitch. Cut the yarn. Fold the circle flat together and sew hole together so that leg is flat and wide in the same direction as body.

THIRD LEG = LEFT FRONT LEG:
ROUND 1: Work 1 double crochet in each of the front 9 stitches on the left side of body, then work 9 chain stitches.
ROUND 2: Work 1 double crochet in the first of the 9 double crochets, this is now a circle, and continue piece in the round with 1 double crochet in each double crochet and 1 double crochet in each chain stitch = 18 stitches. Insert a marker at beginning of round.
ROUND 3 to 4: Work 1 double crochet in each stitch.
ROUND 5: Now work all stitches together 2 by 2 - read CROCHET TOGETHER-2 in explanation above = 9 double crochets on round.
ROUND 6 to 12: Work 1 double crochet in each stitch. Cut the yarn. Fold the circle flat together and sew hole together so that leg is flat and wide in the same direction as body.

FOURTH LEG = LEFT BACK LEG:
Skip 4 stitches (= mid under stomach).
ROUND 1: Work 1 double crochet in each of the last 9 stitches at the back of body, then work 9 chain stitches.
ROUND 2: Work 1 double crochet in the first of the 9 double crochets, this is now a circle, and continue piece in the round with 1 double crochet in each double crochet and 1 double crochet in each chain stitch = 18 stitches. Insert a marker at beginning of round.
ROUND 3 to 4: Work 1 double crochet in each stitch.
ROUND 5: Now work all stitches together 2 by 2 - read CROCHET TOGETHER-2 in explanation above = 9 double crochets on round.
ROUND 6 to 12: Work 1 double crochet in each stitch. Cut the yarn. Fold the circle flat together and sew hole together so that leg is flat and wide in the same direction as body.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the alpaca’s eyes, nose and mouth with a double dark grey strand - see picture for placement and shape.
Then fill the alpaca with some cotton wool and sew body together mid under stomach. Fill the head with some cotton wool.
Fold the hole at the top of head flat together with face at the front. Work the last row where head is worked together and one ear is worked at the beginning and end, as follows:
Begin in the first stitch in the right side: In the same stitch work 4 chain stitches, 2 double treble crochets, 4 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch = 1 ear.
Then work hole at the top of head together as follows:
Work double crochet through both layers of the flat circle, 1 stitch in every stitch to and with next to last stitch.
In last stitch work the other ear as follows: 4 chain stitches, 2 double treble crochets, 4 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch. Cut and fasten the yarn.
Tie some hair at the top of head with double knots.

BLANKET:
Work blanket back and forth with 2 strands and double crochets - work every row in its own colour - leave approx. 10 cm thread for fringes in each end.
Work 20 chain stitches with colour 1, * switch to next colour, turn piece, work 1 row double crochets with 1 stitch in every stitch, * Repeat from *-* until 10 rows have been worked. The blanket should with worked with even numbers so that knots in each end can be tied 2 and 2 for fringes. Cut fringes to a length of approx. 1 cm.

HAT:
Work hat with 2 strands in the round in a circle, top down - read CROCHET TIP-1. Work 4 chain stitches with 2 strands christmas red and form a ring with a slip stitch in first chain stitch. Work 1 chain stitch and 5 double crochets around chain stitch ring (= 6 stitches). Insert 1 marker at beginning of round and move the marker upwards. Continue to work as follows:
Round 1: Work 2 double crochets in the first stitch, * work 1 double crochet in next stitch, work 2 double crochets in next stitch *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 9 double crochets.
Round 2: Work 1 double crochet in each stitch on round.
Round 3: * Work 2 double crochet in next stitch, work 1 double crochet in the next 2 stitches *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 12 double crochets.
Round 4: Work as 2nd round.
Round 5: * Work 2 double crochet in next stitch, work 1 double crochet in the next 2 stitches *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 16 double crochets.
Round 6: Work as 2nd round.
Work last round as follows: Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 4 stitches. Now work an ear flap as follows: Work 6 chain stitches, in the 3rd chain stitch work 1 half treble crochet + 1 treble crochet. Work 3 chain stitches. Continue to work 1 double crochet in each of the next 8 stitches, work the other ear flap as follows: Work 6 chain stitches, in the 3rd chain stitch work 1 half treble crochet + 1 treble crochet. Work 3 chain stitches and work 1 double crochet in each of the last 4 stitches. Fasten round with a slip stitch in the first double crochet on round, fasten off.
Tassels: Use left-over yarn in different colours: Gather 6 strand of 15-20 cm in a bundle, and fasten them at the end of each ear flap.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 35-11) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (5)

Arianne 06.10.2020 - 16:41:

Bij de instructies staat drops andes, dubbele draad en haaknaald 8. Maar het label van drops andes zegt haaknaald 9 (enkele draad). Kloppen de instructies wel? Wat is de juiste haaknaald en haren?

DROPS Design 10.10.2020 kl. 11:22:

Dag Arianne,

Het kan inderdaad zo zijn dat de stekenverhouding in het patroon anders is dan wat op het label staat. In dit geval moet je met een dunnere haaknaald haken omdat het werk dan strakker wordt, wat een mooier resultaat geeft bij dit patroon. Het gaat erom dat de stekenverhouding uit het patroon klopt end dat je daar een juiste naalddikte bij zoekt. Maak dus altijd even een proeflapje en pas evt. de naalddikte aan.

Helena 30.08.2020 - 11:32:

Bonjour, je vous envoie un petit message car je me demande si il faut doubler la laine pour l\'échantillon ? Mon échantillon est très loin du compte et cela me met le doute. Merci beaucoup.

DROPS Design 31.08.2020 kl. 10:30:

Bonjour Héléna, seule la couverture se crochète avec 2 fils Andes ou Eskimo, le lama se crochète avec 1 seul fil Andes ou Eskimo - plus d'infos sur l'échantillon ici. Bon crochet!

Kerstin Pauly 06.01.2020 - 15:16:

Ich bitte um Erlaubnis a) die Anleitung für die Gruppe Nadelspiel Krefeld-Linn mehrfach zu drucken b) die Produkte auf jedem Wege uz Gunsten des Krefelder Zoos zu verkaufen c) auf die Nennung der Quelle beim Tier zu verzichten d) jegliche Wolle zu nutzen e) drops in die Sponsor-Liste aufzunehmen (mit Quellenhinweis) Liebe Grüße, Kerstin

DROPS Design 07.01.2020 kl. 12:06:

Liebe Frau Pauly, Solange dies nicht als kommerzielles Unternehmen geschieht, sondern eher als Wohltätigkeitslauf, in dem viele Menschen für wohltätige Zwecke häkeln, sollte es kein Problem geben.

Nicki 28.09.2019 - 19:55:

Thanks very much for the pattern, but can you help with Row 19. When you say, 13 chain stitches remain - do you mean make another 13 chain stitches? If you just dc down the original 13 chain stitches after the tail , there are 31 stitches in total. Have I misunderstood 'then work double crochets towards the tail in same chain stitch row but on opposite side as follows'. Could you try explaining another way? Thanks very much :-)

DROPS Design 30.09.2019 kl. 10:21:

Dear Nicki, at the end of row 19, there are 13 chains left from the 19 chains you cast on at the beginning of this row. Work then 1 dc in each of these 13 chains, 1 dc in each of the 18 stitches from the neck (= row 18) + 1dc in each of the 13 chains from the beg of the row (work now in the opposite side of these chains) = 44 sts for the body. The rounds now start under tail. Happy crocheting!

Helle Svenningsen 10.07.2019 - 15:57:

Hvordan skal benene syes sammen? De 4 masker under maven lukker jo ikke det hele af. Mvh Helle

DROPS Design 12.07.2019 kl. 08:36:

Hei Helle. Benene sys sammen på samme måte som magen. Du kan sy en sammenhengde søm langs hele undersiden av alpakaen. God fornøyelse

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