DROPS / 202 / 4

Algarve by DROPS Design

Crocheted jumper with puff stitches in DROPS Sky. The piece is worked top down with lace pattern, long split and ¾-length sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.

Tags: jumpers, lace, top down,
DROPS Design: Pattern no sk-036
Yarn group B
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
350-400-400-450-500-550 g colour 03, light beige

CROCHET TENSION:
16 treble crochets in width and 8 rows in height = 10 x 10 cm.

HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 MM.
The hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller hook size.

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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 4.90 £ /50g
DROPS Sky uni colour DROPS Sky uni colour 4.90 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Sky mix DROPS Sky mix 4.90 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 34.30£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.

1 PUFF STITCH:
Work as follows in the same chain stitch (it is important to work in the stitch, not around the stitch): * make 1 yarn over, insert hook through chain stitch, make 1 yarn over and pull through the chain stitch, pull both yarn overs long (to avoid the puff stitches becoming too small and tight it’s important to pull the stitches as far as possible, ie approximately 2 cm) *, work from *-* a total of 5 times, make 1 yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.

MEASURING TIP:
Due to the elasticity of the yarn, take all measurements when holding the garment up so that it is not too long when worn.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on the inside of the 2 outermost stitches in each side. Decrease 1 stitch by skipping 1 stitch. It is difficult to say where the decreases will occur in the pattern, but try to adjust so that they are worked on a row of treble crochets/chain stitches (not puff stitches).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Front and back pieces are worked back and forth in sections, top down as follows: First work right shoulder front with increases for neck, then left shoulder front with increases for neck, before the 2 sections are joined and you work back and forth over all stitches to finished length. The back piece is worked in the same way. The sleeves are worked back and forth, top down. The garment is sewn together before working the neck.

RIGHT SHOULDER FRONT (when garment is worn):
Work 28-36-36-44-44-52 chain stitches with hook size 4.5 mm and Sky. The first row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 1 treble crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook, * skip 1 chain stitch, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 3 chain stitches *, work from *-* to end of row = 20-26-26-32-32-38 treble crochets on row. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side: Work A.1C (= 6 treble crochets), A.1B over the next 12-18-18-24-24-30 stitches (= 2-3-3-4-4-5 repeats of 6 treble crochets) and finish with A.1A (= 2 treble crochets). Continue this pattern back and forth until A.1 has been completed, i.e. the last row has been worked from the wrong side and there are 22-28-28-34-34-40 treble crochets on the row. Cut the strand, lay the piece to one side and work left shoulder front as described below.

LEFT SHOULDER FRONT (when garment is worn):
Work 28-36-36-44-44-52 chain stitches with hook size 4.5 mm. The first row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 1 treble crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook, * skip 1 chain stitch, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 3 chain stitches *, work from *-* to end of row = 20-26-26-32-32-38 treble crochets on row.
The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side: Work A.1E (= 7 treble crochets), A.1B over the next 6-12-12-18-18-24 stitches (=1-2-2-3-3-4repeats of 6 treble crochets) and finish with A.1D (= 7 treble crochets). Continue this pattern back and forth until A.1 has been completed, i.e. the last row has been worked from the wrong side and there are 22-28-28-34-34-40 treble crochets on the row. Do not cut the strand, but work 31-25-31-25-31-31 slightly loose chain stitches for the neck at the end of the last row from the wrong side and fasten the chain-stitch row with 1 slip stitch in the outermost stitch towards the neck on the right shoulder front (from the wrong side). Cut the strand. Now work the sections together for the front piece as described below.

FRONT PIECE:
The right and left shoulder fronts are now fastened to each other and you have worked chain stitches for the neck mid front (= 75-81-87-93-99-111 stitches).
Start from the right side on the right shoulder front and work as follows: Work A.2A (= 2 stitches), A.2B over the next 66-72-78-84-90-102 stitches (= 11-12-13-14-15-17 repeats of 6 stitches, i.e. you work over the shoulder stitches and continue over the chain stitches in neck and each chain stitch counts as 1 treble crochet and then over the stitches on the left shoulder front until there are 7 stitches left on the row) and finish with A.2C (= 7 stitches) = 75-81-87-93-99-111 stitches on row.
Continue the pattern back and forth like this. When A.2 has been worked 1 time in height, repeat A.X to finished length.
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 18-18-20-20-22-23 cm from the cast-on edge – read MEASURING TIP, insert 1 marker in each side to mark the armholes.
Continue working until the piece measures 57-59-61-63-65-67 cm.
Finish the front piece with 1 row of treble crochets – choose a row from one of the diagrams which fits with where you are in the repeat, so that there are 75-81-87-93-99-111 treble crochets on the row. Cut and fasten the strand. The front piece measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm from the shoulder down.

RIGHT SHOULDER BACK (when garment is worn)
Work 28-36-36-44-44-52 chain stitches with hook size 4.5 mm. The first row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 1 treble crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook, * skip 1 chain stitch, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 3 chain stitches *, work from *-* to end of row = 20-26-26-32-32-38 treble crochets on row. Cut the strand, lay the piece to one side and work left shoulder back as described below.

LEFT SHOULDER BACK (when garment is worn):
Work 28-36-36-44-44-52 chain stitches with hook size 4.5 mm. The first row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 1 treble crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook, * skip 1 chain stitch, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 3 chain stitches *, work from *-* to end of row = 20-26-26-32-32-38 treble crochets on row. Then at the end of this row work 35-29-35-29-35-35 slightly loose chain stitches for the neck. Fasten the chain-stitch row with 1 slip stitch in the outermost stitch towards the neck on the right shoulder back (from the right side). Cut the strand. Now work the sections together to the back piece as described below.

BACK PIECE:
Right and left shoulder back are now fastened to each other and you have worked a row of chain stitches for the neck mid back (= 75-81-87-93-99-111 stitches).
Start from the wrong side on the right shoulder back and work as follows: Work A.1E (= 7 treble crochets), A.1B over the next 66-72-78-84-90-102 stitches (= 11-12-13-14-15-17 repeats of 6 stitches, i.e. you work over the right shoulder stitches and continue over the chain stitches in neck and each chain stitch counts as 1 treble crochet and then over the stitches on the left shoulder back until there are 2 stitches left on the row) and finish with A.1A (= 2 treble crochets) = 75-81-87-93-99-111 stitches on row.
Continue the pattern back and forth as follows. When A.1 has been completed work the next row as follows from the right side: Work A.2A (= 2 stitches), A.2B over the next 66-72-78-84-90-102 stitches (= 11-12-13-14-15-17 repeats of 6 stitches) and finish with A.2C (= 7 stitches). Continue this pattern.
When A.2 has been worked 1 time in height, repeat A.X in the same way as on the front piece.
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 18-18-20-20-22-23 cm from the cast-on edge – remember MEASURING TIP, insert 1 marker in each side to mark the armholes.
Continue working until the piece measures 57-59-61-63-65-67 cm and match it to the front piece.
Finish with 1 row of treble crochets in the same way as on the front piece. Cut and fasten the strand. The back piece measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Work 77-77-85-85-93-101 chain stitches with hook size 4.5 mm. The first row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 1 treble crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook, 1 treble crochet in the next chain stitch, * skip 1 chain stitch, work, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 3 chain stitches * work from *-* to end of row = 57-57-63-63-69-75 treble crochets on the row.
The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side: 4 chain stitches (equivalent to 1 treble crochet + 1 chain stitch), skip 2 treble crochets, * 2 treble crochets in gap before the next 3 treble crochets, 1 chain stitch * work from *-* until there are 3 treble crochets left on row, skip 2 treble crochets and finish with 1 treble crochet in the last treble crochet = 57-57-63-63-69-75 stitches on row.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work A.2A (= 2 treble crochets), A.2B over the next 48-48-54-54-60-66 stitches (= 8-8-9-9-10-11 repeats of 6 treble crochets) and finish with A.2C (= 7 stitches). Continue this pattern back and forth until A.X has been worked a total of 2 times in height (or to desired length).
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 3 cm from the cast-on edge in all sizes decrease 1 stitch in each side – read DECREASE TIP (= 2 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 10-10-10-10-6-6 cm a total of 3-3-3-3-6-6 times in each side = 51-51-57-57-57-63 stitches on row. Cut and fasten the strand. The sleeve measures approx. 40 cm in all sizes. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves between the markers on front and back pieces. Sew the sleeve and side seams in one go – start at bottom of sleeve and sew edge to edge in the outermost stitch, but stop the seam when there is 24 cm left on front and back pieces = split.

NECK:
Start on the one shoulder and work as follows with hook size 4.5 mm:
ROUND 1: Work 1 double crochet in the first stitch, * 3 chain stitches 1 double crochet around next row/chain-space *, work from *-* to end of round and finish with 3 chain stitches and 1 slip stitch in first double crochet at beginning of round.
ROUND 2: Work slip stitches to middle of first chain-space, work 3 chain stitches (equivalent to 1 double crochet + 2 chain stitches), * 1 double crochet around the next chain-space, 2 chain stitches *, work from *-* to end of round and finish with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch at beginning of round.
ROUND 3: Work slip stitches to middle of first chain-space, work 2 chain stitches (equivalent to 1 double crochet + 1 chain stitch), * 1 double crochet around next chain-space, 1 chain stitch *, work from *-* to end of round and finish with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch at beginning of round. Cut and fasten strand.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 14.02.2019
Last line of PUFF STITCH: a total of 5 times, make 1 yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.

Diagram

= this row is not worked; it has already been worked and shows you how the next row is worked in the stitches
= 1 chain stitch
= 3 chain stitches (equivalent to 1 treble crochet)
= 1 treble crochet in stitch
= 1 treble crochet around chain stitch
= 2 TREBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER AROUND CHAIN STITCH/IN TREBLE CROCHET: Work 1 treble crochet around chain stitch/in treble crochet, but wait with the last yarn over and pull through, work 1 treble crochet around same chain stitch/in same treble crochet and pull the last yarn over through all 3 loops on hook
= skip 1 chain stitch, work 1 treble crochet in next treble crochet, 1 chain stitch, work 1 PUFF STITCH - read description above - in chain stitch which was skipped (puff stitch should cross over the treble crochet on the right side of the piece)
= skip 1 puff stitch + 1 chain stitch, work 1 treble crochet in next treble crochet, 1 chain stitch, work 1 puff stitch in chain stitch which was skipped (puff stitch should cross over the treble crochet on the wrong side of the piece)



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 202-4) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (11)

Inger 14.09.2020 - 05:44:

Vad betyder ”ster” som står nämnt på flera ställen?

DROPS Design 14.09.2020 kl. 07:27:

Hej Inger. Det ska vara stolpar (inte ster). Texten har nu rättats, tack för info! Mvh DROPS Design

Ruth 04.02.2020 - 16:14:

If you follow A.1E, A.1B, A.1D for the left shoulder you end up with 2 chains together at one end of the A1B repeat depending on which direction travelled. This is on both the (triple followed by chain) and (2triple together chain) rows.

DROPS Design 05.02.2020 kl. 08:42:

Dear Ruth, thanks for your feedback, our design team will check diagrams!

Stephanie 13.12.2019 - 20:37:

Ja ik zie het beter, ik had die rij stokje niet moeten halen, nu heb ik op de schouderstukken 2 rijen stokjes. Euhm, uithalen doe ik niet want dat is moeilijk met Sky want het zit steeds vast. Zal het lelijk zijn die dubbele rij stokjes?

DROPS Design 16.12.2019 kl. 15:56:

Dag Stephanie,

Ik kan me voorstellen dat je het liever niet uithaalt, maar wat je mooi vindt is natuurlijk erg persoonlijk... Misschien een idee om ergens anders ook een extra rij stokjes te verwerken...? Dan lijkt het net alsof het zo hoort...;)

Stephanie 13.12.2019 - 20:14:

Hoi, Dat bedoel ik niet echt. De aller eerste rij zijn stokjes en dat wordt nergens vermeld. Waarom staan de stokjes dan in het patroon? Ik heb dus wel die stokjes gehaakt en daarna 1. Mijn vraag was kom ik dan goed uit?

Stephanie 08.12.2019 - 23:15:

1/1 Hoi, Ik ben het aan het maken met Sky, cotton light is te dik. Maar ik heb een vraag. Het voorpand nadat de lossen zijn gehaakt voor de hals en de schouderstukken vast zitten zeggen jullie:” Begin aan de goede kant op de rechterschouder en haak dan als volgt: Haak A.2A (= 2 steken), A.2B over de”. Maar als je naar het patroon kijkt moet je met A.2C beginnen en niet net A.2B. Dat kan niet want je begint altijd met 3 keerlossen en niet direct met een stokje...

Stephanie 08.12.2019 - 23:12:

2/2 Dus de eerste toer allemaal stokjes zoals patroon en dat heb ik aan de goede kant gehaakt en de volgende rij waar het met 1. Waar het patroon eigenlijk begint aan de verkeerde kant. Is dit juist? Want in de tekst staat hier niks over. Of had ik de eerste toer stokjes aan de verkeerde kant moeten beginnen en waar 1. begint aan de goede kant? Ik hoop dat ik goed zit anders moet ik uithalen en dat gaat niet makkelijk met Sky.

DROPS Design 12.12.2019 kl. 12:52:

Dag Stephanie,

De eerste toer is de toer waar het getal '1' naast staat. De toer met stokjes is reeds gehaakt en staat er bij zodat je kunt zien hoe de steken van toer 1 in de vorige toer gehaakt moeten worden.

Stephanie 08.12.2019 - 23:06:

Hoi, Ik ben het aan het maken met Sky cotton lightness te dik. Maar ik heb een vraag. Het voorpand, als het begint nadat de lissen zijn gehaakt voor de hals en de schouderstukken vast zitten zeggen jullie:” Begin aan de goede kant op de rechterschouder en haak dan als volgt: Haak A.2A (= 2 steken), A.2B over de”. Maar als je naar het patroon kijkt moet met A.2C beginnen en niet net A.2B. Dat kan niet want je begint altijd met 3 lossen en niet direct met een stokjes. 1/2

DROPS Design 12.12.2019 kl. 12:51:

Dag Stephanie,

De toer waar een sterretje bij staat in het telpatroon is al gehaakt en staat erin getekend om aan te geven hoe je de steken in de vorige toer haakt. Als je met de eerste toer begint (waar het getal 1 ook bij staat), begin je dus met 3 lossen (het patroon lees je van rechts naar links)

Stephanie 03.12.2019 - 16:15:

Hoi, kun je dit ook maken met cotton light? Of wordt het dan te stug? Heb eerste schouderstuk gehaakt en het rekt niet echt, of naakt dat niet uit. Het zit in dezelfde garen groep B.

DROPS Design 06.12.2019 kl. 16:54:

Dag Stephanie,

Cotton light is inderdaad een heel ander garen en het werk zal met name veel zwaarder worden en ook minder soepel.

Marianne Kiss 19.06.2019 - 17:43:

Like very much your project! I have many good drops yarns, thank you the idea! Have a great week! Marianne

Adelaide Saraiva 08.01.2019 - 01:51:

Adoro. Vou quere fazê-lo.

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