DROPS / 198 / 2

Taste of Rainbow by DROPS Design

Crocheted blanket with zig-zag pattern in DROPS Paris.

DROPS design: Pattern w-742
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZE: Width: approx. 80 cm Length: approx. 125 cm

MATERIALS:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
250 g colour 17, off white
200 g colour 101, light blue
200 g colour 102, spray blue
200 g colour 41, mustard
200 g colour 59, old pink

For a uni-coloured piece use Paris:
900 g

CROCHET TENSION:
Crochet tension means how tight the stitches are worked. For this pattern you’ll work with a tension of 16 treble crochets in width and 9 treble crochets vertically measures on 10 x 10 cm. This means that 1 repetition of A.3 measures approx. 11 cm in width.


CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 mm.
Hook size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger hook. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller hook.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Cotton
from 0.95 £ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 1.05 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 0.95 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.95£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.
STRIPES:
Work approx. 12 to 12.5 cm of each colour in the following order: off white, spray blue, light blue, old pink, mustard, off white, spray blue, light blue, old pink, mustard, off white.

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START THE PIECE HERE:
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BLANKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked back and forth. Work pattern and stripes at the same time.

BLANKET:
Work 194 LOOSE chain stitches (including 3 chain stitches to turn with) on hook size 4.5 mm with off white. See explanation of STRIPES above.
Then work according to diagram A.1 where ROW 1 is worked as follows:
Work 1 treble crochet in 4th chain stitch from hook, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 2 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 3 chain stitches, skip 1 chain stitch, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 3 chain stitches, 3 chain stitches, skip 1 chain stitch, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 3 chain stitches, skip 1 chain stitch, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 3 chain stitches, skip 1 chain stitch, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 3 chain stitches, skip 5 chain stitches, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 3 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* 5 more times, skip 1 chain stitch, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 3 chain stitches, skip 1 chain stitch, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 3 chain stitches, 3 chain stitches, skip 1 chain stitch, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 3 chain stitches, skip 1 chain stitch, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 3 chain stitches, skip 1 chain stitch, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 3 chain stitches = 126 treble crochets.
There are 7 zig-zags in total. Turn piece. 
2ND ROW IN DIAGRAM: 3 chain stitches (these 3 stitches replace first treble crochet), * 1 treble crochet in next treble crochet, 1 chain stitch, skip 1 treble crochet, 1 treble crochet in next treble crochet, 1 chain stitch, skip 1 treble crochet, 1 treble crochet in next treble crochet, 1 chain stitch, skip 1 treble crochet, 1 treble crochet in next treble crochet, 1 chain stitch, 1 treble crochet around chain space, 3 chain stitches, 1 treble crochet around same space, 1 chain stitch, skip 1 treble crochet, 1 treble crochet in next treble crochet, 1 chain stitch, skip 1 treble crochet, 1 treble crochet in next treble crochet, 1 chain stitch, skip 1 treble crochet, 1 treble crochet in next treble crochet, 1 chain stitch, skip 1 treble crochet, 1 treble crochet in next treble crochet, skip 2 treble crochets *, repeat from *-* 6 more times = 70 treble crochets. Turn piece.
ROW 3: See diagram A.1. Work B 1 time, repeat C 6 times. Finish row by working D 1 time.
ROW 4: See diagram A.1. Work D 1 time, repeat C 6 times and finish row by working B 1 time.

Repeat ROW 3 and 4, at the same time change colour as explained in STRIPES above. Finish blanket here. Piece measures approx. 125 cm.

Diagram

= 1 chain stitch
= 1 treble crochet in treble crochet
= 1 treble crochet around space
= 3rd and 4th row - these 2 rows = 1 repetition
= rows are also explained in pattern

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 198-2) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (16)

Claire Nailor 18.02.2020 - 16:49:

Hello! I would like to make this blanket slightly wider than the pattern. Please can you tell me how many chains I should start with to make a blanket that is approximately 1.5 x the width (120cm)? Or please can you tell me the calculation for the foundation chain? Many thanks.

DROPS Design 19.02.2020 kl. 08:36:

Dear Mrs Nailor, we are unfortunately not able to adjust every pattern to every single request - make your swatch to check your tension and have the basis to recalculate how many repeats you need in width - the number of chains required for 1 repeat A.1C is the one between stars on first row on blanket (so that the fundation chain is not tighter than 1st row). Your DROPS store will provide you any further individual assistance even per mail or telephone. Happy crocheting!

Yara Jagt 17.12.2019 - 11:02:

Goedemorgen, Op advies van de video over rechte randen, haak ik i.p.v. de 3 l bij keren, het aparte stokje. Echter, daarmee heb ik te veel stokjes (incl. het keerstokje) op mijn toeren: Toer 2: Bij D 6 i.p.v. 5 Toer 3: B 10 i.p.v. 9, D 11 i.p.v. 9 Toer 4: B&D 6 i.p.v. 5 Nu wil ik beginnen aan toer 5, en dan zou ik bij B 12 stokjes hebben ipv 9 (incl. het keer stokje). Klopt dit? Kan ik hier wel mee verder, of kan ik beter de 3 keerlossen gebruiken? Groeten, Yara

DROPS Design 18.12.2019 kl. 19:34:

Dag Yara,

Als je in plaats van de 3 keerlossen, haakt zoals aangegeven in de video, zou het aantal steken niet af moeten wijken. Als je te veel steken hebt, dan haak je toch ergens te veel steken.

Charlotte Bækdahl 26.10.2019 - 16:36:

It makes no sence skipping 5 slip stitches in row 2. It looks strange and I changed it to 3 slip stitches which looked much better.

Mónica 20.09.2019 - 05:29:

Al igual que la señora alemana, me sobran puntos, no logro llegar con 194 puntos y tengo más de 126, voy a seguir según las indicaciones, aunque no me den los puntos y veo qué va a ocurrir.

Anniken 14.08.2019 - 22:13:

Hei. Er det riktig å hoppe over 5 masker? Synes det blir så stor løkke da og ser ut som at jeg skal hekle i 5.maske for å få den ene kanten.

DROPS Design 04.12.2019 kl. 11:45:

Hej Anniken, Hvor er du i opskriften, jeg finder ikke hvor vi skriver at du skal hoppe over 5 masker.... Har du set vores video?

How to crochet a zigzag pattern from Garnstudio Drops design on Vimeo.

Gitte 09.08.2019 - 09:55:

Tak for svaret men forstår det ikke. Iflg. diagrammet på 4. række mangler der da en maske eller hvad? Kan ikke få det til at passe!

DROPS Design 09.08.2019 kl. 10:29:

Hej igen Gitte, jo det stemmer, du har 9 masker på 4.række og du har 10 masker på 3.række. God fornøjelse!

Gitte 08.08.2019 - 23:14:

Hvordan får man kanten lige? Iflg. diagrammet række 3 og 4 som skal gentages kommer man jo til at mangle 1 maske i kanten. Jeg fatter det ikke, er ellers en rutineret hækler. .

DROPS Design 09.08.2019 kl. 08:20:

Hej Gitte, jo du hækler 10 stangmasker (incl lm du vender med) hver gang du hækler 3.række. God fornøjelse!

Gisela Degener 05.08.2019 - 14:56:

Hallo ich möchte gern diese Decke größer häkeln. Breit 120cm Lang 160 cm Wieviel Garn brauche ich dazu und wie viele Maschen müsste ich anschlagen?

DROPS Design 07.08.2019 kl. 10:51:

Liebe Frau Degener, leider können wir nicht jede Anleitung nach jeder individuellen Anfrage anpassen, gerne wird Ihnen aber Ihr DROPS Laden weiter helfen - auch telefonisch oder per E-Mail. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Melissa 31.07.2019 - 12:28:

Ik wil de deken graag iets kleiner maken. Breedte ongeveer 60 cm. Met hoeveel lossen moet ik dan beginnen?

DROPS Design 31.07.2019 kl. 17:55:

Dag Melissa,

Je zou dan bijvoorbeeld 1 of 2 herhalingen van C in de breedte minder kunnen doen. Een herhaling van is 18 stokjes op de 1e toer en omdat je na iedere 3 stokjes in de eerste toer een losse over slaat en daarnaast nog een keer 5 stokjes, kom ik op 24+5 = 29 lossen minder opzetten, per herhaling die je minder wilt doen.

Maartje Meijvogel 24.07.2019 - 13:43:

Als ik de foto van deze deken zie, dan loopt de zijkant van de deken recht af, maar als ik het patroon volg dan worden de zijkanten van de deken steeds smaller...ik kom er niet uit...ben een beginnend haakster😊

DROPS Design 24.07.2019 kl. 20:29:

Dag Maartje,

Als je het patroon precies volgt, dan zou de deken niet smaller moeten worden. Kan het zijn dat je per ongeluk steeds strakker begint te haken, waar door het bij elkaar trekt?,

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