DROPS / 163 / 8

Dancing On The Dock by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS blanket with stripes and zig-zag in ”Fabel”.

Tags: blankets, zigzag,
DROPS design: Pattern no fa-306
Yarn group A
Measurements: approx. 90 x 114 cm
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
50 g in each of the following colours:
colour no: 914, shoreline
colour no: 521, blue/brown
colour no: 522, turquoise/blue
colour no: 162, blue sea
colour no: 677, green/turquoise
colour no: 542, green
colour no: 151, guacamole
colour no: 910, sea mist

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4.5 mm - or size needed to get 20 sts x 39 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm or 24 sts zig-zag pattern in width = 10 cm.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 2.50 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in pattern seen from RS. NOTE: K all rows.

Work 7 cm with each colour before changing to next.
colour no: 914, shoreline
colour no: 521, blue/brown
colour no: 522, turquoise/blue
colour no: 162, blue sea
colour no: 677, green/turquoise
colour no: 542, green
colour no: 151, guacamole
colour no: 910, sea mist
Repeat stripes two times in total vertically.

Worked back and forth on circular needle to make room for all the sts. Cast on 222 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm with shoreline. Work 1 ridge in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Then work as follows: 3 sts in garter st, A.1 over the next 216 sts and finish with 3 sts in garter st. Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION Work STRIPES - see explanation above. When stripes have been worked 2 times vertically, work a ridge with sea mist, then cast off.


= K from RS, K from WS
= K 2 sts in one st
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
= K 2 tog

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 163-8) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (18)

Brita 03.03.2019 - 01:45:

Hei Man skal strikke mønster første pinne, så tilbake skal man strikke vrang tilbake, men i oppskriften den hvite firkanten står det noe annet. Det står rett fra rette, og rett på vrangen??? Jeg har prøvd begge deler og galt blir det. Når jeg ser på video så ser jeg ikke hun strikke vrang i det hele tatt.

DROPS Design 04.03.2019 kl. 14:23:

Hei Brita. Du skal strikke rett fra retten og rett fra vrangen slik at du strikker riller - altså rett på alle pinner. Syjmbolforklaringen stemmer. Da vil annehver pinne bli rett og annenhver pinne bli vrang sett fra rettsiden. Altså du strikker rett når du strikker fra rettsiden, og når du snur og strikker tilbake fra vrangsiden strikker du rett igjen. God fornøyelse

Marthe Brekke 01.01.2019 - 02:10:

Hei. Kan dere legge ut mønsteret med tekst? Diagrammer viser at man skal minske med to masker annen hver omgang, men går ut i fra man da også skal øke? Klarer ikke å finne forklaring på det noen sted?

DROPS Design 02.01.2019 kl. 15:37:

Hei Marthe. Det stemmer, rutene med sort prikk i hver ende er en økning (= strikk 2 masker i 1 maske). Symbol nummer 2 i symbolforklaringen. God fornøyelse

May-Brit Skytte 14.10.2018 - 04:39:

Skal mønster strikkes på begge sider...altså på hver pind??? 'jeg har forsøgt mig flere gange med kun mønster på hver anden og dette komme ikke til at passe,,, der bliver ikke bølger i den sidste 1/4 del øv øv

DROPS Design 22.10.2018 kl. 11:27:

Hei May-Brit. Du strikker etter diagrammet oppover, så du strikker første pinne (rettsiden) med fellinger og kast som anvist, og neste pinne (vrangsiden) strikkes alle masker vrang. Slik fortsetter du oppover til ferdige mål. God fornøyelse

Vanessa 09.04.2018 - 12:25:

Bonjour, le coloris 521 étant supprimé, je me disais que je pourrais ne rien utiliser en remplacement mais j'aime bien l'effet plus foncé qu'il apporte dans la séquence des rayures. Quel coloris utiliser pour rester le plus fidèle possible à l'original? Merci d'avance.

DROPS Design 09.04.2018 kl. 13:07:

Bonjour Vanessa, pour toute aide au choix d'une couleur, contactez votre magasin DROPS, même par mail, téléphone ou via les réseaux sociaux, au choix. Bon tricot!

Rachel Bruner 21.09.2017 - 15:18:

I would like to make this afghan, Dancing on the Dock, in size 4 worsted yarn but I don't know how to figure how much yarn I will need. Would you please help me to figure this out? Also I'm hoping using larger yarn will make this afghan larger too. i'd appreciate any help you could give me. Thank you.

DROPS Design 21.09.2017 kl. 15:40:

Dear Mrs Bruner, this blanket has been designed for a thinner yarn, for any individual assistance adjusting the pattern, you are welcome to contact your DROPS store. Happy knitting!

Pirjo Björk 13.02.2017 - 10:15:

Tacksam för svar på min fråga. Den lyder: På diagrammet till sicksackfilten står det att jag ska sticka 2 m i en m, betyder det en ökning eller att man stickar två maskor ihop? För längre ner ska man sticka 2 räta maskor tillsammans, det är mer klart för mig, men inte den förra.

DROPS Design 13.02.2017 kl. 13:35:

Hej Pirjo. Du starter med at strikke 2 m i 1 maske (tage ud) og i midten tager du 2 m ind og til sidst strikker du 2 m i 1 maske igen. Paa den maade holder du maskeantal konstant og faar du zigzagmönstret.

C.Geysendorpher 02.10.2016 - 11:57:

Hoe kan ik materiaal voor de omslagdoek "dancing on the docks" bestellen?

DROPS Design 03.10.2016 kl. 10:43:

Hoi. Druk op "Bestel" hier op het patroon, ga via het kleurenkaart van Fabel ook op "Bestel" drukken of zoek een winkel via het menu "Zoek een winkel"

QUERREC 10.07.2016 - 17:48:

Je souhaite effectuer le châle Dancing On The Dock. Je n'arrive pas à répartir les points du diagramme sur le rang avec trois points mousse de chaque côté. Pouvez-vous me donner le détail du rang ? Je vous remercie par avance.

DROPS Design 11.07.2016 kl. 09:52:

Bonjour Mme Querrec, tricotez ainsi: 3 m point mousse, répétez 12 fois A.1 en largeur et terminez par 3 m point mousse. Au 1er rang de A.1, tricotez ainsi: *tricotez 2 fois la 1ère m, 6 m end, glissez 1 m à l'end, 1 m end, passez la m glissée par-dessus la m tricotée, 2 m ens à l'end, 6 m end, tricotez 2 fois la même m* répétez de *-* 12 fois en largeur entre les 3 m point mousse de chaque côté. Bon tricot!

Alriq 20.01.2016 - 11:35:

Bonjour, Je pense qu'il y a une erreur dans votre diagramme car on perd une maille à chaque série. Il ne faut pas faire de maille jetée passée au dessus de la suivante sinon on se retrouverait non avec un plaid mais avec un triangle !!! Merci

DROPS Design 20.01.2016 kl. 12:28:

Bonjour Mme Alriq, le nombre de mailles dans chaque motif doit rester le même à chaque rang: on augmente 2 m (= on tricote 2 fois la 1ère et la dernière m) et on diminue 2 m au milieu du motif. Voir aussi la vidéo ci-dessous. Bon tricot!

Sabine 21.08.2015 - 12:59:

Hej! Är den stickad med dubbelt garn? Stickor 4,5 är ju ganska tjockt för sockgarn, därför undrar jag. Tack!

DROPS Design 24.08.2015 kl. 14:55:

Hej Sabine. Nej, den strikkes med 1 traad og taeppet skal strikkes löst, se stickfastheden: DROPS RUNDST (80 cm) NR 4,5 – eller det st.nr du måste använda för att få 20 m x 39 v rätst på 10 x 10 cm, eller 24 m sicksack på bredden på 10 cm.

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 163-8

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.