DROPS / 82 / 34

Just Peachy Hat by DROPS Design

Knitted hat in DROPS Paris. With garter stitch and crocheted butterfly pin in DROPS Muskat. One-size.

DROPS design: Pattern W-290b
Yarn group B + C
Size: One-size
Materials: DROPS Paris from Garnstudio
50 g of the following colours: 06, shocking pink, 45, orange and 46, rust.

DROPS Needle size 4 mm.

Butterfly brooch:
Materials: DROPS Muskat from Garnstudio
a left-over of the following colours: 49, dark orange and 39, heather.

DROPS Crochet hook size 3.5 mm.
Accessories: Small safety pin.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 0.95 £ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 1.05 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 0.95 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 0.95£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension: Remember needle size is only a guide!
18 stitches x 36 rows with needle size 4 mm and garter stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

Ridge/Garter stitch (back and forth on needle):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

Stripes * 1 ridge shocking pink, 1 ridge orange, 1 ridge rust *, repeat from *-*.
Hat: The hat is worked back and forth on needle and sewn mid back to finish.
Cast on 120 stitches with needle size 4 mm and orange. Knit 1 row from the wrong side. Continue with garter stitch and Stripes - see description above. Remember the knitting tension - if the work is too loose, the hat will be too big! When piece measures 5 cm work the next row as follows from right side (with the colour you have reached): * K2, K2 together *, repeat from *-* to end of row = 90 stitches. Continue the stripes. When piece measures 17 cm insert 10 marker threads in the piece with 9 stitches between each - first marker thread inserted after 8 stitches, and there should be 1 stitch after the last marker thread. Continue the stripes, at the same time as you decrease from the right side by knitting 2 together on right side of all marker threads every 2nd ridge 4 times and then every ridge 4 times = 10 stitches left on needle. Cut strand and pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well.
Sew the hat together mid back in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch. The hat measures approx. 23 cm in height.

Butterfly brooch:

Butterfly: The butterfly is worked in 2 parts which are sewn together to finish - i.e. it has 2 pairs of wings.

Bottom pair of wings: Work 5 chain stitches with hook size 3.5 mm and heather and form them to a ring with 1 slip stitch.
Row 1: 3 chain stitches, 2 treble crochets around chain-space, * 2 chain stitches, 3 treble crochets around chain-space *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times (= 5 treble crochet-groups), turn piece.
Row 2: 4 chain stitches, 3 treble crochets around chain-space, 5 chain stitches, 3 treble crochets around same chain-space,* 3 treble crochets around next chain-space, 4 chain stitches, 3 treble crochets around same chain-space *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, then 3 treble crochets around next chain-space, 5 chain stitches and 3 treble crochets in same chain-space. Finish with 1 chain stitch and 1 treble crochet in the 3rd chain stitch from previous round, turn piece.
Row 3: Change to dark orange, skip the first treble crochet-group, work 12 treble crochets around first chain-space (= space with 5 chain stitches), 1 double crochet between the treble crochet-groups, 10 half- treble crochets around next chain-space, 1 double crochet between the treble crochet-groups, 10 half- treble crochets around next chain-space, 1 double crochet between the treble crochet-groups, 12 treble crochets around next chain-space, skip the last treble crochet-group and finish with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch from the previous row, cut strand.

Top pair of wings: Work 10 chain stitches with crochet hook size 3.5 mm and dark orange and form them to a ring with 1 slip stitch.
Row 1: * 1 double crochet, 1 treble crochet, 1 double- treble crochet, 1 treble crochet and 1 double crochet around chain-space, then work 1 half- treble crochet, 2 treble crochets, 1 double- treble crochet, 2 triple-double- treble crochets, 2 double- treble crochets, 2 treble crochets and 1 double crochet around same chain-space *, 5 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch in first double crochet on the row, turn piece (half the pair of wings is now finished). Repeat from *-* in the other chain-space and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet.

Assembly: Sew the top pair of wings to the bottom - sew in middle of butterfly so that the wings are free. Fasten a small saftey pin to the back.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 82-34) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (4)

Annie Regan 28.08.2019 - 17:56:

After the first decreasing row of 2stitches to the right of the marker I don’t understand the next two instructions. Could you explain please? Thank you

DROPS Design 29.08.2019 kl. 09:42:

Dear Mrs Regan, to decrease for the top of hat, you insert 10 markers in total with 8 sts after the first one then 9 sts between each markers, then work as before (with stripes) and decrease by K2 tog on the right side of every marker (= before each marker) a total of 4 times every 4th row then 4 times every 2nd row. You decrease a total of 10 sts on each decrease row. Happy knitting!

Hannah 24.08.2019 - 13:44:

Tof en makelijk patroon voor een leuk hoedje! Volgens mij staat er één foutje in bij de minderingen voor de bovenkant, dat moet denk ik zijn: 4 x in elke 4e en dan 4 x in elke 2e nld (ipv elke nld). De minderingen komen dan allemaal aan de goede kant, dit komt ook overeen met het Engelse patroon. Groetjes

CHRISTINE DINOUART 28.04.2019 - 12:26:

Faut-il changer de couleur tous les rangs ? Merci

DROPS Design 29.04.2019 kl. 10:20:

Bonjour Mme Dinouart, chaque couleur se compose de 2 rangs endroit (= 1 côte mousse), cf RAYURES. Bon tricot!

DINOUART Christine 18.03.2019 - 12:36:

Bonjour, Serait-il possible d'avoir un graphique pour ce bonnet ? Merci Bien cordialement

DROPS Design 18.03.2019 kl. 14:00:

Bonjour Mme Dinouart, il n'y a que des explications écrites pour ce modèle, lisez attentivement les explications et n'hésitez pas à utiliser cette rubrique pour y poser vos questions. Bon tricot!

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