DROPS / 190 / 3

Vintage Summer by DROPS Design

Crocheted jumper with vent and lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL Piece is crocheted in DROPS Cotton Merino.

DROPS design: Pattern cm-089
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS COTTON MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
500-550-600-650-700-800 g colour 05, powder pink

Piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group B)” - see link below.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 18 treble crochets x 9 rows = 10 cm in width and 10 cm vertically. Pattern A.1 and A.4. 20 stitches = width 10 cm. Pattern A.2: 18 stitches = width 10 cm. Pattern A.3b measures approx. 7 cm in width.
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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 3.40 £ /50g
DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour 3.40 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 34.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4.

CROCHET INFO (applies to everything except A.3):
At beginning of every row with treble crochet begin with 3 chain stitch, these do not replace first treble crochet. Finish row with 1 treble crochet in 1st/3rd chain stitch from beginning of previous row.
At beginning of every row with double crochet begin with 1 chain stitch, this does not replace first double crochet. Finish row with 1 double crochet in 1st/3rd chain stitch from beginning of previous row.

DECREASE TIP:
* Insert hook in next stitch, get yarn *, repeat from *-* one more time, make a yarn over and pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook = 1 double crochet decreased.

INCREASE TIP-1 (applies to sides on front and back piece):
Work A.2 2 times in total around first chain space on row and work A.2 2 times in total around last chain space on row (= 2 repetitions increased).

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to A.2):
Increase by working 2 double crochets in same stitch.
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JUMPER:
Work jumper back and forth, top down. Work front and back piece separately. First work each shoulder separately, then work parts together at the neck and continue downwards. Work sleeves back and forth.

BACK PIECE:
Work each shoulder separately, cast on chain stitches for neck and put piece together.

LEFT SHOULDER:
Work 32-36-40-47-54-62 chain stitches (including 3 chain stitches to turn with) on hook size 4 mm with Cotton Merino. Turn and work 1 treble crochet in 4th chain stitch from hook, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 3-2-1-3-5-3 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 4 chain stitches *, work from *-* 5-6-7-8-9-11 times in total = 24-27-30-36-42-48 treble crochets.
Work next row as follows (= 1st row in A.1d from wrong side): Work 3 chain stitches - read CROCHET INFO, work A.1d 8-9-10-12-14-16 times in total in width = 8-9-10-12-14-16 chain spaces. Put piece aside and work the other shoulder.

RIGHT SHOULDER:
Work the same way as left shoulder, then work 36-39-39-39-39-39 chain stitches for neck and fasten with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of last row on left shoulder. Fasten off.

BACK PIECE:
Continue on 2nd row in A.1d (= from right side) as follows: Read CROCHET INFO! Work A.1d over the first 8-9-10-12-14-16 chain spaces, work A.1d 12-13-13-13-13-13 times in total over chain stitches for neck (work treble crochets in stitches), work A.1d over the next 8-9-10-12-14-16 chain spaces. Continue like this, i.e. work A.1d 28-31-33-37-41-45 times in total in width. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! When A.1 has been worked vertically, repeat the last 2 rows until piece measures approx. 16-16-18-18-20-20 cm - adjust according to last row (i.e. row worked from wrong side).
WORK A.2 AS FOLLOWS:
Work 1st row in A.2 as follows: Work A.2 (= 28-31-33-37-41-45 repetitions) while at the same time decreasing 9-9-9-12-12-15 double crochets evenly - read DECREASE TIP = 75-84-90-99-111-120 double crochets. Then work to and with 6th row (= 25-28-30-33-37-40 repetitions).
Repeat 5th and 6th row upwards.
When piece measures approx. 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm, work armholes, i.e. cut the yarn. Work 6 loose chain stitches (= armholes), continue on pattern A.2 as before over all stitches and finish with 6 loose chain stitches (= armhole). Insert 1 marker here - NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
On next row work 2 repetitions of A.2 over each armhole (work treble crochets in chain stitches), i.e. work A.2 29-32-34-37-41-44 times in total in width.
Continue this pattern. When piece measures 3 cm from marker, increase 1 repetition in each side - read INCREASE TIP-1. Increase like this every 4th-4th-4th-5th-5th-5th cm 10 times in total = 39-42-44-47-51-54 repetitions of A.2 on last row. Continue to work until piece measures 26-27-28-29-30-31 cm, adjust so that next row is from right side.
Then work 7th and 8th row = 117-126-132-141-153-162 treble crochets. Work last row while at the same time increasing 3-6-0-3-3-6 double crochets evenly - read INCREASE TIP-2 = 120-132-132-144-156-168 double crochets. Insert 1 marker in each side (= marks vent).
WORK A.3 AS FOLLOWS:
Work next row as follows (= from wrong side): Work A.3c, A.3b 9-10-10-11-12-13 times in total in width, finish with A.3a. Continue until diagram is done vertically, fasten off. Entire piece measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm from shoulder.

FRONT PIECE:
Work each shoulder separately, increase and cast on chain stitches for neck and put piece together.

RIGHT SHOULDER:
Work 32-36-40-47-54-62 chain stitches (including 3 chain stitches to turn with) on hook size 4 mm with Cotton Merino. Turn and work 1 treble crochet in 4th chain stitch from hook, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 3-2-1-3-5-3 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 4 chain stitches *, work from *-* 5-6-7-8-9-11 times in total = 24-27-30-36-42-48 treble crochets.
Work next row as follows, begin from wrong side: Remember CROCHET INFO! Work A.1b, A.1a 8-9-10-12-14-16 times in total in width. When A.1 has been worked vertically, put piece aside.

LEFT SHOULDER:
Work 32-36-40-47-54-62 chain stitches (including 3 chain stitches to turn with) on hook size 4 mm with Cotton Merino. Turn and work 1 treble crochet in 4th chain stitch from hook, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 3-2-1-3-5-3 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 4 chain stitches *, work from *-* 5-6-7-8-9-11 times in total = 24-27-30-36-42-48 treble crochets.
Work next row as follows, begin from wrong side: Work A.1d 8-9-10-12-14-16 times in total in width and A.1c. When A.1 is done vertically, work 20-23-23-23-23-23 chain stitches for neck and fasten with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of last row on right shoulder. Fasten off.

FRONT PIECE:
Continue on 2nd row in A.1 (= from right side) as follows: Work A.1a over the first 11-12-13-14-17-19 chain spaces, work A.1a 6-7-7-7-7-7 times in total over chain stitches for neck (work treble crochets in stitches), work A.1a over the next 11-12-13-14-17-19 chain spaces. Continue like this, i.e. work A.1a 28-31-33-37-41-45 times in total in width. When A.1 has been worked vertically, repeat the last 2 rows until piece measures approx. 16-16-18-18-20-20 cm - adjust according to last row (i.e. row worked from wrong side). Then work A.2 and A.3 the same way as on back piece.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth, top down.
Work 78-84-87-90-96-99 LOOSE chain stitches (including 3 chain stitches to turn with) on hook size 4 mm with Cotton Merino. Turn - remember CROCHET INFO and work A.4 25-27-28-29-31-32 times in total in width. When A.4 has been worked vertically, repeat the last 2 rows onwards. Continue like this until piece measures approx. 24-23-22-21-19-17 cm - adjust according to row worked from wrong side (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders). Then work 1st and 2nd row in A.2. Work 3rd row in A.2 while at the same time increasing 9-3-0-9-3-0 double crochets evenly = 84-84-84-96-96-96 double crochets. Insert 1 marker here (= marks vent).
Work next row as follows, begin from wrong side: Work A.3c, A.3b 6-6-6-7-7-7 times in total in width, finish with A.3a. Continue until A.3 is done vertically, fasten off. Sleeve measures approx. 35-34-33-32-30-28 cm.
Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Place front piece on top of back piece right side against right side and work shoulder together as follows: Work 1 double crochet through both layers, * 3 chain stitches, skip approx. 2 cm, 1 double crochet through both layers *, work from *-* along the shoulder. Fasten off. Repeat on the other shoulder.

NECK EDGE:
Work an edge evenly along the neck, begin from one shoulder as follows:
Work 1 double crochet around row/treble crochet/chain space, * 3 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch, 1 double crochet around next row/treble crochet/chain space *, work from *-* along the entire neck, finish with 1 slip stitch in first double crochet.

SLEEVE EDGE:
Fasten the sleeve to the front/back piece, begin mid under sleeve from right side. Work the pieces together the same way as on neck edge from right side but work through both layers along the entire opening. Fasten the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Work together in the sides (place right side against right side and work from wrong side), begin from one marker (= 9 cm for vent in the side) as follows: Work 1 double crochet, * 3 chain stitches, 1 double crochets around next treble crochet row *, work from *-* down to the other marker (= 9 cm for vent on the sleeve). Fasten off. Repeat in the other side.

Diagram

= 1 chain stitch
= 2 chain stitches
= 3 chain stitches
= 4 chain stitches
= 6 chain stitches
= 7 chain stitches
= double crochet in stitch
= double crochet around chain space
= double crochet in stitch/around chain stitch
= treble crochet/chain stich
= treble crochet in stitch
= treble around chain stitch/chain space
= 2 TREBLE CROCHETS WORKED TOGETHER (in stitch): work 2 treble crochets in next stitch but wait with last yarn over and pull through on both these treble crochets, make a yarn over and pull yarn over through all 3 loops on hook
= 2 TREBLE CROCHETS WORKED TOGETHER (around chain space): work 2 treble crochets around chain stitch/chain space but wait with last yarn over and pull through on both these treble crochets, make a yarn over and pull yarn over through all 3 loops on hook
= 3 TREBLE CROCHETS WORKED TOGETHER (in stitch): work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 3 stitches but wait with last yarn over and pull through on all these treble crochets, make a yarn over and pull yarn over through all 4 loops on hook
= 4 TREBLE CROCHETS WORKED TOGETHER (in stitch): work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 4 stitches but wait with last yarn over and pull through on all these treble crochets, make a yarn over and pull yarn over through all 5 loops on hook
= double treble crochet in 1st/4th chain stitch
= 3 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch
= shows previous row, row has already been worked. Begin on next row!
= number on row, row begins here



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 190-3) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (22)

Viki De Beltran 25.11.2020 - 23:49:

No le entiendo al gráfico esas líneas que dividen a lo largo no se que significan y falta explicar el principio de las vueltas. Tengo 40 años de tejer y he hecho muchos de sus patrones pero estos últimos y que empiezan x el cuello no estan bien explicados

Fabienne 25.11.2020 - 19:57:

Je comprends pas ce passage. Merci Quand l'ouvrage mesure environ 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm, former les emmanchures, c'est-à-dire couper le fil, crocheter ensuite souplement 6 mailles en l'air (= emman

DROPS Design 26.11.2020 kl. 10:04:

Bonjour Fabienne, pour faire les emmanchures, on va d'abord couper le fil puis monter les nouvelles mailles pour l'emmanchure (= 6 ml), crocheter les mailles du rang suivant du dos comme avant et monter 6 mailles en l'air pour la 2ème emmanchure. Vous continuez ensuite simplement comme avant avec 2 motifs de A.2 en plus de chaque côté (= les 6 ml de chaque côté). Bon crochet!

Fabienne 23.11.2020 - 11:42:

Bonjour, Quand on a fini l'empiècement des épaules et de l'encolue il faut après 20 com commencer le dessin A2 mais par quelle ligne doit on commencer les V ou les petits ronds noirs ? Merci

DROPS Design 23.11.2020 kl. 11:49:

Bonjour Fabienne, le rang avec les petits ronds noirs n'est pas à faire, il montre seulement les mailles du rang précédent pour savoir comment crocheter celles de A.2 (= ex au 1er rang: flèche - 1: 1 maille serrée dans chaque maille/autour de l'arceau/de la maille en l'air du rang précédent), autrement dit, au-dessus de A.1 = 2 mailles en l'air, 1 bride, crochetez 1 maille serrée dans chaque maille en l'air, 1 ms dans la bride. Bon crochet!

Francis 03.08.2020 - 09:38:

Goedemorgen Dank voor jullie vlotte reactie. Helaas heb ik moeite met het patroon begrijpend te lezen. Ik merk dat meer haaksters daar moeite mee hebben. Is het een optie om struikelblokken in een patroon, zoals bijv de schouderdelen en de armsgaten, visueel te maken? Fijne dag!

Francis 30.07.2020 - 22:35:

Is er een video beschikbaar hoe de schouderdelen van Vintage Summer te haken? Ik kom er niet uit. Groet, Francis

DROPS Design 02.08.2020 kl. 19:08:

Dag Francis,

Helaas is er voor de schouders van dit patroon niet apart een video gemaakt. Kun je aangeven waar je precies tegenaan loopt? Dan kunnen we je misschien helpen...

Rana Totah 25.06.2020 - 01:19:

On back piece Now I have completed the row after adding the chains for armhole I have 6 dc 25 repeats of A2 6 Dc On the next raw do I continue keeping the 6d until the next increment or do I start with the pattern.

DROPS Design 25.06.2020 kl. 09:03:

Dear Mrs Totah, yes you work now 2 repeats of A.2 over the chains on each side (2 extra repeats on armhole + 25 repeats as before + 2 extra repeats on armhole) and repeat the rows 5 and 6 as before. Happy crocheting!

Leanne 28.02.2020 - 09:02:

Am I able to use caroncakes light weight 3, with the hook size that's suggested for this pattern?? Recommended size hook for the caron cakes is 4mm. Thank you in advance.

DROPS Design 28.02.2020 kl. 09:30:

Dear Leanne, We are able to provide free patterns thanks to our yarns sold throughout the world. You will therefore understand that we can only recomand you to use our DROPS yarns. Feel free to contact the store where you bought the yarn for any individual assistance. Thank you for your comprehension. Happy crocheting!

Linda 15.02.2020 - 21:45:

I am beginning the armhole on back piece. It says to cut the yarn . Work 6 loose chain stithes, continue pattern A.2 How does the 6 chain stitches get connected to where to where I left off?

DROPS Design 17.02.2020 kl. 09:06:

Dear Linda, the 6 new chain stitches will come before the previous stitches and there will be 6 new chain stitches at the end of the row = you will then get a "straight" line on each side increasing the piece. On next row you will work over these 6 chain stitches on each side to get the piece wider. Hope it helps, happy crocheting!

Elena 31.07.2019 - 16:36:

Ska starta m vänster axel. Har 4 stolpar, men diagrammet visar diagram för 3. Inte van vid diagram så jag undrar hur jag ska tänka här.

DROPS Design 02.08.2019 kl. 09:55:

Hej Elene, du skall virka enligt antal stolpar i diagrammet, da vil antalet stolpar i diagrammet stemma vidare i mönstret. Lycka till :)

Solange 08.07.2019 - 16:49:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas le début pour les épaules vous notez : "Crocheter le rang suivant ainsi (= 1er rang de A.1d sur l'envers): 3 mailles en l'air - voir INFO CROCHET, 8-9-10-12-14-16 fois A.1d en largeur au total = 8-9-10-12-14-16 arceaux. Mettre de côté et crocheter l'autre épaule." C'est à dire A1d en entier ou juste le 1er rg ? Sur le diagramme A1 faut-il commencer les rg par 3ml et finir par une B ? Merci bien

DROPS Design 09.07.2019 kl. 08:07:

Bonjour Solange, vous ne crochetez que le 1er rang de A.1d pour l'épaule gauche et vous mettez en attente. Vous crochetez ensuite le 1er rang de l'épaule droite + les mailles en l'air de l'encolure dos et vous crochetez ensuite le 2ème rang de A.1d sur l'épaule droite, puis sur les mailles en l'air de l'encolure + sur l'épaule gauche jusqu'à ce que A.1 soit terminé, puis vous répétez les 2 derniers rangs jusqu'à 16-20 cm (cf taille). Au 1er rang de A.1d, on crochète 3 ml (cf INFO CROCHET), pus: (2 ml, sautez 2 brides, 1 b dans la b suivante), répétez de (à) = A.1d. Bon crochet!

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