DROPS / 186 / 27

Meet Me in Provence by DROPS Design

Jacket with short sleeves, lace pattern and stripes, crocheted top down. Size: S - XXXL Piece is crocheted in DROPS BabyMerino.

DROPS design: Pattern no bm-051
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BABYMERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-300-350-400-400-450 g colour 25, lavender
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 01, white

Piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group A)” - see link below.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 mm - or size needed to get 22 treble crochets x 12 rows = 10 cm in width and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON, flower (white), NO 600: 7-7-7-8-8-8 pieces
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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 3.10 £ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 3.10 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5.

CROCHET INFO:
Begin every treble crochet row with 3 chain stitches (replaces first treble crochet).
When sleeve edges are worked in the round, begin and end every round in A.1 as follows:
Begin 1st and 2nd round in A.1 with 3 chain stitches (do not replace first treble crochet) and finish with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round
Begin 3rd and 4th round in A.1 with 3 chain stitches (replace first treble crochet) and finish with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round

STRIPES:
In the first 3 repetitions of diagrams vertically work 1st and 2nd row with white, work the remaining rows in lavender - read COLOUR CHANGE. Then work the remaining repetitions of diagrams in lavender.

COLOUR CHANGE. 
When changing colour work as follows: Work last treble crochet with first colour but wait with last pull through, switch to next colour and work last pull through, then continue working.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP:
To calculate how to increase/decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches to be increased/decreased over (e.g. 24 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases/decreases to be done (e.g. 3) = 8.
To increase evenly in this example work 2 treble crochets in every 8th treble crochet.
To decrease evenly in this example work every 7th and 8th treble crochet together. Decrease 1 treble crochet by working 2 treble crochets together as follows: Work 1 treble crochet in/around first stitch, but wait with last pull through, work 1 treble crochet in/around next treble crochet/stitch, but on last pull through pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook.
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JACKET:
Yoke and body are worked back and forth from mid front, top down. Sleeve edges are worked in the round. Band and neck edge are worked back and forth at the end.

YOKE:
Work 144-154-158-168-168-175 chain stitches (including 3 chain stitches to turn with) on hook size 3.5 mm with lavender. Work 1 treble crochet in 4th chain stitch from hook (= 2 treble crochets) - read CROCHET INFO, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 0-3-0-3-3-3 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 6 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* = 122-131-134-143-143-149 treble crochets.
Work first row from wrong side as follows: Work 1 treble crochet in each of the first 18-21-21-24-24-24 treble crochets, * work 2 treble crochets in next treble crochet, 1 treble crochet in next treble crochet *, repeat from *-* over the next 22 treble crochets (= 11 treble crochets increased), 1 treble crochet in each of the next 42-45-48-51-51-57 treble crochets, repeat from *-* over the next 22 treble crochets (= 11 treble crochets increased), 1 treble crochet in each of the last 18-21-21-24-24-24 treble crochets = 144-153-156-165-165-171 treble crochets.
Work next row as follows from right side - read STRIPES:
Work 1 treble crochet in first treble crochet, A.1 over 21-24-24-27-27-27 treble crochets (= 7-8-8-9-9-9 repetitions of 3 treble crochets) (= left front piece), A.2 (= 2 treble crochets), A.1 over 12 treble crochets (= 4 repetitions), A.3 over 1 treble crochet, A.1 over 12 treble crochets (= 4 repetitions), A.2 over 2 treble crochets (= left sleeve), A.1 over 42-45-48-51-51-57 treble crochets (= 14-15-16-17-17-19 repetitions) (= back piece), A.2 over 2 treble crochets, A.1 over 12 treble crochets (= 4 repetitions), A.3 over 1 treble crochet, A.1 over 12 treble crochets (= 4 repetitions), A.2 over 2 treble crochets (= right sleeve), finish with A.1 over 21-24-24-27-27-27 treble crochets (= 7-8-8-9-9-9 repetitions) and 1 treble crochet in last treble crochet (= right front piece). REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
On last row in A.1 to A.3 increase 0-0-3-3-3-0 treble crochets evenly over each of the front pieces – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP and 0-0-6-0-12-3 treble crochets evenly over back piece (= 0-0-12-6-18-3 treble crochets increased in total). When A.1 to A.3 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 202-211-226-229-241-232 treble crochets on last row. Piece measures approx. 5 cm.
Continue to work 1 treble crochet in first and last treble crochet and A.1 as before. Repeat diagram A.2 over the 2 middle treble crochets in each repetition over A.2 0-0-1-1-2-3 more times (i.e. A.2 is worked 1-1-2-2-3-4 times in total vertically), over the remaining stitches work A.1 (i.e. work 2 repetitions of A.1 over every A.3 on sleeves and work 2 repetitions of A.1 on each side of A.2).
When A.2 is done there are 202-211-274-277-337-376 treble crochets on last row. Piece measures approx. 5-5-8-8-12-15 cm.
Now work A.4 over the middle 2 treble crochets in every repetition of A.2 2-3-2-3-2-2 times in total vertically, work the remaining stitches in A.1. I.e. over every A.2 work as follows: Work 2 repetitions of A.1 (= 6 treble crochets), A.4 (= 2 treble crochets) and 2 repetitions of A.1 (= 6 treble crochets). Every time A.4 is repeated work 16 repetitions more of A.1.
When A.4 is done there are 250-283-322-349-385-424 treble crochets on last row. Piece measures approx. 12-15-15-18-19-22 cm.
Now work A.5 over the middle 2 treble crochets in every repetition of A.4 1 time in total vertically, work the remaining stitches in A.1. I.e. over every A.4 work as follows: Work 1 repetition of A.1 (= 3 stitches), A.5 (= 2 stitches) and 1 repetition of A.1 (= 3 stitches).
When A.5 is done there are 278-311-350-377-413-452 treble crochets on last row. Piece measures approx. 15-18-18-21-22-25 cm.
Now work 1 treble crochet in first and last treble crochet and A.1 over the remaining stitches (= 92-103-116-125-137-150 repetitions of A.1) until piece measures 17-19-20-22-24-26 cm.
Now work body and sleeves as follows:
Work 1 treble crochet in first treble crochet, work pattern as before over the next 39-45-48-54-60-66 stitches (= 13-15-16-18-20-22 repetitions of A.1 = front piece), skip the next 57-66-75-81-84-90 treble crochets (= 19-22-25-27-28-30 repetitions of A.1 = sleeve), work 12 chain stitches under sleeve, work pattern as before over the next 84-87-102-105-123-138 stitches (= 28-29-34-35-41-46 repetitions of A.1 = back piece), skip the next 57-66-75-81-84-90 stitches (= 19-22-25-27-28-30 repetitions A.1 = sleeve), work 12 chain stitches under sleeve, work pattern as before over the next 39-45-48-54-60-66 stitches (= 13-15-16-18-20-22 repetitions of A.1 = front piece), finish with 1 treble crochet in last treble crochet.

BODY:
= 188-203-224-239-269-296 stitches. Work 1 treble crochet in first treble crochet, work A.1 until 1 treble crochet remains (= 62-67-74-79-89-98 repetitions), finish with 1 treble crochet in last treble crochet.
When piece measures 1 cm from where body was divided from sleeves, decrease treble crochets evenly every time A.1 is repeated vertically, decrease on 3rd row in A.1 as follows: Decrease 6 treble crochets 3-3-3-2-2-2 times in total and 3 treble crochets 0-0-1-0-1-1 time in total = 170-185-203-227-254-281 stitches. Now repeat A.1 56-61-67-75-84-93 times in width. When piece measures 14 cm from where sleeve was divided from body, increase on every 3rd row in A.1 as follows: Increase 15 treble crochets evenly 0-0-1-1-0-0 times in total, increase 9 treble crochets evenly 3-3-3-2-4-3 times in total, increase 6 treble crochets evenly 1-1-0-1-0-1 time in total = 203-218-245-266-290-314 stitches. Work the increased stitches in A.1. Repeat A.1 67-72-81-88-96-104 times in total in width.
Work A.1 until piece measures 34-34-35-35-35-35 cm from where body was divided from sleeves (51-53-55-57-59-61 cm from neck edge), finish after 1 row with treble crochets. Fasten off.

SLEEVE EDGE:
Work an edge in the round, top down. Beg by working mid under sleeve as follows: Work 1 double crochet in the 7th chain stitch of the 12 chain stitches worked under sleeve on yoke, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 5 chain stitches, work A.1 as before over the 57-66-75-81-84-90 stitches, finish with 1 treble crochet in each of the last 6 chain stitches under sleeve = 69-78-87-93-96-102 stitches.
Continue with A.1 in the round (= 23-26-29-31-32-34 times in width) for 2 cm, adjust to finish with 1 round with only treble crochets.
Then work an edge around the sleeve as follows: Work 1 chain stitch, * 1 double crochet in first/next treble crochet, 4 chain stitches, skip approx. 1 cm *, work from *-* around the entire sleeve and finish with 1 slip stitch in first double crochet at beginning of round. Cut and fasten the thread. Work the other sleeve edge the same way. 

BAND:
Worked back and forth. Work from right side with lavender as follows: Work 1 slip stitch around first treble crochet, 1 double crochet around same stitch, * 2 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around next stitch *, repeat from *-* down the entire edge on jacket, finish with 1 double crochet in last treble crochet. Then work approx. 112 to 134 treble crochets around chain spaces evenly (make sure to avoid tightening or widening piece). Continue with 1 treble crochet in every treble crochet until band measures 3 cm (= approx. 4 rows). Cut and fasten the thread. Work the other band the same way.

NECK EDGE:
Work back and forth over chain stitch row in neck with lavender as follows:
ROW 1 (= from right side): Begin over band, fasten yarn to piece with 1 slip stitch in first band stitch, work 2 half treble crochets (first half treble crochet on row is replaced with 2 chain stitches) around every treble crochet row over bands, work 1 half treble crochet between every treble crochet over chain stitch row in neck = approx. 138-147-150-158-158-165 half treble crochets.
ROW 2: Work 1 double crochet in every half treble crochet (first double crochet on row replaced with 1 chain stitch) = approx. 138-147-150-158-158-165 double crochets. Cut and fasten the thread.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to left front piece as follows: Sew first button approx. 1½-2 cm down from neck edge, then fasten the remaining 6-6-6-7-7-7 buttons approx. 8-9 cm apart. Button through treble crochets on right band.

Diagram

= chain stitch
= treble crochet in stitch
= treble crochet around chain stitch
= work 4 treble crochets together as follows: Work 1 treble crochet around chain stitch, but wait with last pull through, work another 3 treble crochets around same chain stitch, but wait with last pull through, pull yarn through all 5 loops on hook.
= this row has already been worked; it shows how the next row is worked in/around the stitches. NOTE: The diagrams are worked over the number of stitches on this row. Ie: the stitch/stitches on this row, that are NOT worked in are skipped.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 186-27) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (9)

Dina 06.06.2019 - 18:46:

Ik ben maat M(2) aan haken. Ik heb 211 stokjes. Nu begrijp ik de volgende stap niet. Ik zou volgens de vermeerdering 283 stokjes moeten bekomen ttz 72 meerderen. Als ik de telpatroon zie A4 heb je maar 7 vermeerdering. Op 4 plaatsen is er een vermeerdering = 28 zelf maal 2 in hoogte A4 bekom je nog maar = 56. 72 is niet deelbaar door 7

Mieke Knollema-kraa 22.04.2019 - 23:22:

U publiceert heel mooie patronen. Ik ben erg enthousiast omdat er weinig haakpatronen te krijgen zijn, hier diverse, geweldig en mooi, ook voor de oudere vrouw zoals ik.

Petra 20.03.2018 - 12:57:

Haak 144-154-158-168-168-175 lossen (inclusief 3 lossen om het werk mee te keren) op haaknaald 3.5 mm met lavendelblauw. Haak 1 stokje in de 4e losse van de haaknaald (= 2 stokjes) - lees INFORMATIE VOOR HET HAKEN, 1 stokje in elk van de volgende 0-3-0-3-3-3 lossen, * sla 1 losse over, 1 stokje in elk van de volgende 6 lossen *, herhaal van *-* = 122-131-134-143-143-149 stokjes. \r\nWat wordt bedoelt met 0-3-0-3-3-3 lossen? Ik snap dat niet goed. Ik vind het een heel leuk ventje.

Uta 05.03.2018 - 08:19:

Hi. Also wird in der Passe nur 1x am Anfang Muster A3 gehäkelt??

DROPS Design 05.03.2018 kl. 09:52:

Liebe Uta, genau, A.3 wird nur einmal in der Höhe gehäkelt (2 x in der Reihe), dann wird A.1 über A.3 gehäkelt. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Betty 20.01.2018 - 11:38:

If using different models for the photoshoots, then models of all ages should be used not only very young or granny models. Some clothing simply does no suit everyone due to bodytype and /or age

Iris H 16.01.2018 - 20:44:

Two comments: 1. Relating to patterns: Being in the older age group, I find elbow length sleeves far more flattering than very short sleeves. Would suggest adding this option to several of your beautiful patterns. 2. I live in Australia where there is an active knitting community. Your dropdown menus do not mention our country.

Kathleen Keenan 16.01.2018 - 19:45:

Carnt wait for this pattern think it's lovely nìce for the summer

Me 09.01.2018 - 12:19:

How nice to see a real woman for a change! Yes, some patterns are only suited to the very young - but many are not.

Beti 05.01.2018 - 17:33:

Ich finde das Modell ganz toll, würde mich über die Anleitung freuen.

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