DROPS / 177 / 32

Altair by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket worked in a square with lace pattern on the back in DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern bs-114
Yarn group A
----------------------------------------------------------
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
500-550-600-650-700-750 g color 6347, blue purple

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40, 60 and 80 cm / 16", 24'' and 32'') SIZE 3 mm/US 2.5 – or size needed to get 24 stitches and 32 rows in stockinette stitch = width 10 cm / 4'' and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 2.5 mm/ US 1.5 - for edges in garter stitch.
ACCESSORIES: 2 safety pin for stitch holders.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.
Comments (33)

70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
from 4.40 $ /50g
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour 4.40 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 44.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.7. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right
side.

INCREASE TIP-1:
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 49 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 3) = 16.3. In this example increase after approx. every 16th stitch. Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on next row work yarn over twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to mid under sleeve):
Increase on each side of the 5 middle stitches under sleeve as follows: Begin 1 stitch before A.7, make 1 yarn over, knit 1, A.7, knit 1, make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
----------------------------------------------------------

BODY:
Work jacket as a square from mid back on the back and outwards. Work in the round on double pointed needles. Switch to circular needle when needed. When square has been worked, work down the back piece and outwards in each side for front pieces. Finish with a continuous neck edge/band before sleeves are worked.

SQUARE:
Cast on 8 stitches on 1 double pointed needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with BabyAlpaca Silk (let the yarn end be approx. 20 cm / 8''; used for assembly).
ROW 1 (= wrong side): Purl all stitches.
ROW 2 (= right side): * Knit 1 twisted, make 1 yarn over, knit 1, make 1 yarn over *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total = 16 stitches.
Distribute stitches on 4 double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 with 4 stitches on each needle (this is done without working the stitches). Insert 1 marker thread in first stitch on first double pointed needle (= marker thread A = beginning of round), insert in addition 1 marker thread in first stitch on each of the 3 next double pointed needles (= marker thread B, marker thread C and marker thread D). There is now 1 marker thread in each corner - move the marker threads upwards when working.
Work in the round as follows: A.1 (= 4 stitches), A.2 (= 4 stitches), A.1 (= 4 stitches) and A.2 (= 4 stitches). Continue pattern like this and increase as shown in diagrams. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE When A.2 has been worked, work as follows over stitches between marker thread B and C and marker thread D and A. Work A.3A (= 21 stitches), A.3B (= 27 stitches) and then A.3C (= 20 stitches). When A.3 has been worked, A.1 is also done vertically and there are 308 stitches on needle in all sizes (67 stitches between marker thread A and B and between marker thread C and D, 85 stitches between marker thread B and C and between marker thread D and A and 4 corner stitches).
Then work in the round in stockinette stitch with A.4 only between marker thread B and C as follows: Knit corner stitch twisted, increase with 1 yarn over, work in stockinette stitch until marker thread B, increase with 1 yarn over, work A.4A (= 42 stitches – increase after corner stitch is shown in diagram), work A.4B (= 44 stitches – increase before corner stitch is shown in diagram), knit corner stitch twisted, increase with 1 yarn over, work in stockinette stitch until marker thread D, increase with 1 yarn over, knit corner stitch twisted, increase with 1 yarn over, work in stockinette stitch until marker thread A and increase 1 yarn over = 316 stitches on needle in all sizes. Continue to increase at the corner stitches on every 2nd round until 2-4-6-8-10-12 rounds have been worked in total in A.4 (work all of the increased stitches in stockinette stitch). There are now 316-324-332-340-348-356 stitches on needle.

ARMHOLES:
Then work back and forth on circular needle but do not work stitches up towards the neck (i.e. between marker thread D and A).
Begin from right side at marker thread A (= left shoulder back), knit corner stitch twisted as before, LOOSELY bind off the next 46-48-50-52-56-58 stitches for armhole, work in stockinette stitch until marker thread B, increase before corner stitch as before, continue A.4A and A.4B between marker thread B and C as before, knit corner stitch twisted, increase after corner stitch as before, work in stockinette stitch until 46-48-50-52-56-58 stitches remain before marker thread D, loosely bind off the next 46-48-50-52-56-58 stitches for armhole and knit corner stitch twisted as before.
The remaining 87-89-91-93-95-97 stitch between marker thread D and marker thread A (= up towards the neck) are resting on the needle or slipped on a stitch holder.
Cut the yarn used to work with and then slip the corner stitch at marker thread A and marker thread D on separate safety pins = 139-141-143-145-143-145 stitches remain on needle.
Begin from wrong side and work back and forth as before over these stitches in stockinette stitch, A.4A and A.4B between marker thread B and C down at the back and increase on each side of the 2 corner stitches (on every row from right side) until 7 rows in total have been worked after decrease for armhole and last row is worked from wrong side, cut the yarn – NOTE: Work lace pattern in A.4 as shown in diagram, and repeat it down the back until finished measurements, i.e.. the pattern itself goes over the same number of stitches the entire time, but there are more and more stitches in stockinette stitch in each side towards corner stitches.
Slip stitch from safety pin at marker thread A back on needle. Knit this stitch twisted, increase after corner stitch as before, cast on 46-48-50-52-56-58 new stitch on needle for armhole, work in stockinette stitch until marker B, increase before corner stitch as before, continue A.4A and A.4B between marker thread B and C as before, increase after corner stitch as before, work in stockinette stitch over the remaining stitches, cast on 46-48-50-52-56-58 new stitches for armhole, increase before corner stitch as before, slip stitch on safety pin back on needle and knit this stitch twisted = 251-257-263-269-275-281 stitches on needle. Work from wrong side and AT THE SAME TIME cast on 1 new stitch in each side (= edge stitch) = 253-259-265-271-277-283 stitches on needle.

FRONT AND BACK PIECE:
Continue back and forth on circular needle as before, i.e. work next row as follows from right side: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – see explanation above, knit corner stitch twisted, increase after corner stitch, work in stockinette stitch until corner stitch at marker thread B, increase before corner stitch, continue A.4A and A.4B between marker thread B and C (with increases as before), increase after corner stitch, work in stockinette stitch until corner stitch at marker thread D, increase before corner stitch, knit corner stitch twisted and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Purl from wrong side but knit edge stitch in each side and purl the 4 corner stitches twisted as before.
Continue back and forth like this until piece measures approx. 51-53-55-57-59-61 cm / 20''-21''-21 5/8''-22½''-23¼''-24'' from the neck down - finish after 1 row from wrong side. If the knitting gauge is correct vertically there are now 349-373-379-385-409-415 stitches on needle.

Slip stitches between marker thread B and C (including corner stitches) on a stitch holder (= approx. 129-139-141-143-151-153 stitches along bottom edge on jacket). Slip the remaining stitches between marker thread C and to and with marker thread D on another stitch holder (= approx. 110-117-119-121-129-131 stitches on right front piece).

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Insert 1 marker, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
Work as follows over stitch from and with marker thread A and until marker thread B (first row = right side): 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit corner stitch twisted, increase after corner stitch as before, work in stockinette stitch until 1 stitch remains on row, turn piece, tighten yarn and work in stockinette stitch from wrong side, purl corner stitch twisted and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Turn piece, work as before until 2 stitches remain on row, turn piece, tighten yarn and work from wrong side as before. Continue like this by working 1 stitch less towards marker thread B on every turn until piece measures approx. 37-41-45-49-53-57 cm / 14½"-16"-17 3/4"-19 1/4"-21"-22½" from marker (finish after 1 row from wrong side). Put all stitches on left front piece on a stitch holder.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Slip stitch from stitch holder between marker thread C and D back on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5. Insert 1 marker - NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE and work as follows (first row = right side). Work in stockinette stitch until corner stitch, increase before corner stitch as before, knit corner stitch twisted and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Turn piece, work from wrong side with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, purl corner stitch twisted and work in stockinette stitch until 1 stitch remain on row, turn piece, tighten yarn and work from right side with stockinette stitch, increase before corner stitch, knit corner stitch twisted and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Turn, work from wrong side until 2 stitches remain on row, turn piece, tighten yarn and work from right side as before. Continue like this by working 1 stitch less towards marker thread C on every turn until piece measures approx. 37-41-45-49-53-57 cm / 14½"-16"-17 3/4"-19 1/4"-21"-22½" from marker (finish after 1 row from wrong side).

EDGE IN GARTER STITCH:
Slip stitches along right front piece, bottom edge and left front piece onto same circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 = approx. 467-505-523-541-579-597 stitches. Work 2 ridges back and forth over all stitches. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and bind off but to avoid a tight bind-off edge make 1 yarn over after every 6th stitch while binding off (bind off yarn overs as stitches).

NECK EDGE AND BANDS:
Work an edge at the top of garment up along right front piece, over stitches in the back of neck and down along left front piece as follows: Pick up from right side inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch approx. 307-331-355-379-403-427 stitches on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 (if you pick up more/fewer stitches adjust to correct number of stitch on first row). Knit 3 rows back and forth. Work next row as follows from right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.5A until 2 stitches remain on row, work A.5B (= 1 stitch) and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When A.5 has been worked vertically, work next row as follows from right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.6A (= 5 stitches), repeat A.6B until 6 stitches remain on row (= 37-40-43-46-49-52 repetitions of 8 stitches), work A.6C (= 4 stitches) and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue pattern like this until entire edge measures approx. 18-18-18-22-22-22 cm / 7"-7"-7"-8 3/4"-8 3/4"-8 3/4", finish after one whole repetition vertically. Work 1 ridge back and forth over all stitches and bind off but to avoid a tight bind-off edge make 1 yarn over after every 4th stitch while binding off (bind off yarn overs as stitches).

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Switch to a short circular needle when needed.
Cast on 49-49-49-57-57-57 stitches on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with BabyAlpaca Silk. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH in the round - see explanation above. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 and work as follows: A.6A (= 5 stitches), repeat A.6B over the next 40-40-40-48-48-48 stitches (= 5-5-5-6-6-6 repetitions of 8 stitches) and finish with A.6C (= 4 stitches). Continue pattern like this. When piece measures approx. 12 cm / 4¾'', adjust after one whole repetition vertically, knit 1 round while increasing 3-5-7-1-3-5 stitches evenly - READ INCREASE TIP-1 = 52-54-56-58-60-62 stitches on needle. Switch to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and work 2 ridges in the round. Then work A.5A in the round. When A.5 has been worked, switch back to double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5. Work next round as follows: Work A.7 (= 3 stitches), 23-24-25-26-27-28 stitches in stockinette stitch, A.7 (= 3 stitches) and 23-24-25-26-27-28 stitches in stockinette stitch. Continue pattern like this with stockinette stitch and A.7 mid on top and mid under sleeve. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 16 cm / 6 1/4'', increase 2 stitches mid under sleeve - READ INCREASE TIP-2. Increase 17-19-20-20-22-23 times in total in S: Every 2 cm / 3/4'', in M, L and XL: Alternately every 2 and 1½ cm / 3/4" ½" and in XXL and XXXL: Every 1½ cm / ½'' = 86-92-96-98-104-108 stitches on row. When piece measures 50-51-52-51-52-52 cm / 19 3/4"-20"-20½"-20"-20½"-20½", work sleeve cap back and forth on a short circular needle AT THE SAME TIME bind off at the beginning of every row in each side as follows: 3 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 2 times. Then bind off 2 stitches in each side until piece measures 53-54-55-55-56-56 cm / 21"-21 1/4"-21½"-21½"-22"-22", then bind off 3 stitches 1 time in each side. Bind off the remaining stitches, sleeve measures approx. 54-55-56-56-57-57 cm / 21 1/4"-21½"-22"-22"-22½"-22½". Work another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew in sleeves.
Use yarn end from beginning of piece to sew small stitches up and down around the hole in the middle of square. Pull the yarn to tighten the hole and fasten.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 09.03.2017
Diagram A.1 has been updated.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
= knit twisted from right side, purl twisted from wrong side
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, knit yarn over from right side/purl from wrong side to make hole
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, knit yarn over twisted from right side to avoid hole
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together
= shows 1 repetition vertically





1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.