DROPS / 173 / 45

Sleepy Sheep by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS socks with multi-coloured pattern in ”Karisma”. Size 35 - 46

DROPS design: Pattern no u-802
Yarn group B
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Size: 35/37 - 38/40 - 41/43 - 44/46
Foot length: 22 - 24 - 27 - 30 cm
Leg length: 24 - 24- 25 - 26 cm
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
100 g for all sizes in colour no 77, light oak
50-50-50-100 colour no 13, cerise
50 g for all sizes of the following colours:
colour no 53, anthracite
colour no 68, light sky blue
colour no 01, off white
colour no 45, light olive
colour no 52, dark mustard
Colour no 65, denim blue

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 mm - or size needed to get 22 sts x 30 rows in pattern = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm for rib - or size needed to get 23 sts x 32 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 2.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.8. The diagrams are worked in stocking st.

HEEL DECREASE:
Row 1 (= RS): K until 7-7-8-8 sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K 1, psso, turn piece.
Row 2 (= WS): P until 7-7-8-8 sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P 1, psso, turn piece.
Row 3 (= RS): K until 6-6-7-7 sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K 1, psso, turn piece.
Row 4 (= WS): P until 6-6-7-7 sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P 1, psso, turn piece.
Continue dec like this with 1 less st before each dec until there are 12-14-14-14 sts on needle.

DECREASE TIP (applies to toe):
Dec on each side of markers as follows: Beg 3 sts before marker and K 2 tog, K 2 (marker is between these sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec).
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SOCK:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 64-64-68-68 sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm with cerise. Work 1 round in stocking st. Work rib = K 2/P 2 for 4 cm. Switch to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and K 1 round while at the same time dec 4 sts evenly = 60-60-64-64 sts. Work A.1 (= 4 sts) 15-15-16-16 times in width in total. On last round of A.1 dec 0-0-4-4 sts evenly = 60 sts. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION K 0-0-1-3 round with light sky blue. Work A.2 (= 10 sts) 6 times in total in width, insert 1 marker after 25 sts (i.e. in the middle of 3rd repetition of A.2 = marks mid front). When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, K 0-0-2-3 rounds with light sky blue. Work A.3 (= 4 sts), on last round of A.3 dec 4 sts evenly = 56 sts. Work A.4 (= 7 sts) 8 times in width in total. When A.4 has been worked 1 time vertically, piece measures approx. 15-15-16-17 cm. Then work A.5 (= 6 sts) on first round dec 2 sts evenly = 54 sts. On 3rd round, dec 2-0-0-0 sts evenly = 52-54-54-54 sts. On 6th round, dec 4-0-0-0 sts evenly = 48-54-54-54 sts. Work diagram A.5 8-9-9-9 times in the round. Then work A.6 (= 4 sts), on first round dec 0-2-0-0 sts or inc 0-0-2-2 evenly = 48-52-56-56 sts. Work diagram A.6 12-13-14-14 times in the round. K 1 round with light oak. Piece now measures approx. 24-24-25-26 cm.

Adjust round to beg 24-26-28-28 sts from marker mid front. Now keep the first 12-13-14-14 sts on needle for heel, slip the next 24-26-28-28 sts on 1 stitch holder (marker is in the middle of these sts = mid on top of foot) and keep the last 12-13-14-14 sts on needle for heel. Continue with light oak and stocking st back and forth over the 24-26-28-28 heel sts for 5-5½-6-6½ cm. Then work HEEL DECREASE - see explanation above. After heel dec, pick up 11-12-13-14 sts on each side of heel with light oak and slip the 24-26-28-28 sts from stitch holder back on needle = 58-64-68-70 sts. Insert 1 marker on each side of the 24-26-28-28 sts on top of foot. Insert 1 marker in piece, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Work in stocking st with light oak and dec on each side of the 24-26-28-28 sts on top of foot as follows: K the last 2 sts BEFORE first marker on top of foot tog and K the first 2 sts AFTER last marker on top of foot twisted tog. Repeat dec on every other round a total of 5-8-7-5 times = 48-48-54-60 sts. Continue to work with light oak until piece measures approx. 9-10-13-15 cm from marker on heel (approx. 13-14-14-15 cm remain). Work A.7 (= 6 sts) 8-8-9-10 times on round. On last round in A.7, dec 4-0-2-4 sts evenly = 44-48-52-56 sts. Then work pattern according to diagram A.8 (= 4 sts) 11-12-13-14 times in total on round. Insert 1 marker in each side so that there are 22-24-26-28 sts on top of foot and 22-24-26-28 sts under foot. Switch to cerise. Work 1 round in stocking st. Then dec for toes on each side of both markers – READ DECREASE TIP (= 4 sts dec). Repeat dec on every other round 4-4-5-5 times in total and then on every round 5-6-6-7 times in total = 8 sts remain on needle. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten.

Work another sock but when inserting 1 marker in diagram A.2, insert it after 35 sts (i.e. in the middle of 4th repetition of A.2 = marks mid front).

Diagram

= light oak
= cerise
= anthracite
= light sky blue
= off white
= light olive
= dark mustard
= denim blue



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 173-45) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (27)

Veronica 10.10.2019 - 22:28:

Ho appena finito di fare questo modello, purtroppo le misure dal tallone alla punta non mi sono risultate corrette, ho misurato 10 cm dal segnapunti sul tallone ma la misura risultante è di molto superiore alla taglia indicata. Non capisco dove ho sbagliato, sapete darmi qualche indicazione?

DROPS Design 11.10.2019 kl. 09:16:

Buongiorno Veronica, il suo campione corrispondeva a quello indicato? Ha misurato 10 cm dal tallone e poi iniziato a lavorare A.7? Buon lavoro!

Orysia 17.09.2018 - 01:17:

How do I avoid the jog in back of socks where contrast colours change?

Kniterella 09.09.2018 - 02:00:

I have almost knitted A1 chart, Tension is out 24 stitches on 3.50mm needles measured over 4" then on front half of sock on rnd 5 of A1. I am knitting them a bit bigger in calf I intend to sell the socks in my Etsy shop. What should I do. I'm a loose Knitter but new to Continental. I have been knitting English throwing yarn with rt finger but not yarn over finger. Please advise, shpuld I frog it all n start again? The knitted fabric feels just right am weaving in CC yarn.

Tarja 15.12.2017 - 23:19:

Karisma is only 100 % wool. How good It is for socks, because it does not have any polyamide?

DROPS Design 18.12.2017 kl. 08:53:

Dear Tarja, you can use Karisma for the socks. If you want a strong yarn you can choose a yarn with Polyamide such as Fabel (Superwash) or Nord (not Superwash) but will have then to adjust the pattern since it's not the same yarn group. Happy knitting!

Hélène 09.01.2017 - 19:32:

Bonjour! Ce patron est vraiment très joli!

Michèle Balon 03.12.2016 - 11:01:

Je crains qu'il y ait une erreur de quantité pour ce joli modèle : vous indiquez en effet 100 g de chêne clair, or les motifs de cette couleur ne sont pas nombreux et semblent utiliser peu de laine. Par contre 50 g de naturel paraissent nettement insuffisants et le rose aussi, je pense... Etant tricoteuse, je vais corriger de moi-même mais ce serait bien de vérifier pour modifier les quantités sur le modèle. Merci et bonne journée.

Jenneke 11.11.2016 - 10:49:

Ik vroeg mij af waar je de markeerder voor de hiel plaatst. Meet je vanaf de hiel of vanaf de plaats waar je bent begonnen met licht eiken? Alvast bedankt!

DROPS Design 11.11.2016 kl. 15:12:

Hoi Jenneke. Je plaatst de markeerder zoals er staat in het patroon: Plaats 1 markeerder aan elke kant van de 24-26-28-28 st op de bovenkant van de voet. Je doet dit nadat je de st hebt opgenomen in licht eiken. En dan MEET NU HET WERK VANAF HIER.

Marjon Peuteman 02.10.2016 - 09:29:

Ik heb dit patroon gebruikt om een muts en sjaal voor een klein meisje mee te breien. Ik heb Cotton Merino gebruikt ipv Karisma en het resultaat was zeer geslaagd. het was ontzettend leuk om te breien met al die vrolijke kleuren en leuke motieven, ik werd er helemaal happy van :-)

Unni Flagstad 30.09.2016 - 14:28:

Har startet opp med de fine sokkene, men ser at jeg skal på første sokk sette et merke etter 25 masker ,noe som beskrives som midt foran. Er det feil? Da merket skulle settes hadde jeg 60 masker på pinnene. Blir ikke midt foran for meg da men...... Takknemlig for svar Hilsen Unni

DROPS Design 04.10.2016 kl. 16:32:

Hej Unni. Jo, det burde vaere korrekt. Du justerer senere saa starten af omg er 24 eller 26 m för merket (de to mindste str), og saa setter du de förste 12-13 m p een traad, holder de naeste 24-26 m paa pinden (og saa sidder dit merke i midten af disse og saetter sidste 12-13 paa en traad. M paa traaden er haelen.

Alba 30.09.2016 - 07:04:

Precioso! ¿Para cuando un gorro con este diseño? 😍😍

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