DROPS / 173 / 6

Winter Bird by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS square jacket with lace pattern, worked sideways in "BabyAlpaca Silk" and "Kid-Silk". Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no bs-111
Yarn group A + A or C
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
400-400-450-500-550-600 g colour no 8465, medium grey
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
150-175-200-200-225-250 g colour no 10, grey

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 5 mm – or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in pattern with 1 strand of each yarn = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4 mm – for garter st.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
from 4.10 £ /50g
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour 4.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd

75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 3.80 £ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 3.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 3.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 55.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

See diagrams A.1 to A.3. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

All inc are done from RS.
Inc inside 1 edge st in garter st and K 1: Making 1 YO, on next row, P YO twisted to avoid holes.

Worked in 2 parts sideways that are sewn tog mid back when finished. Work from mid back on back and towards mid front.

Worked back and forth on circular needle to make room for all the sts.
Cast on 144-144-144-156-156-156 sts on needle size 4 mm with 1 strand BabyAlpaca Silk and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm and work as follows from RS: Work A.1 (= 2 sts) * A.2 (= 8 sts), A.3 (= 4 sts) *, repeat from *-* 10-10-10-11-11-11 more times, A.2 (= 8 sts), finish with A.1 (= 2 sts). Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION
When piece measures 17½-18-19-20-23-24½ cm, cast off for armhole from RS as follows: Work the first 38 sts, cast off the next 29-31-32-34-36-38 sts and work as before over the last 77-75-74-84-82-80 sts. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! On next row cast on 29-31-32-34-36-38 new sts over the cast off sts and continue pattern as before. When piece measures 43-44-46-48-54-57 cm, work 3 ridges - AT THE SAME TIME on first row dec 2 sts over each P section of 4 sts (dec by K 2 tog) = 122-122-122-132-132-132 sts. LOOSELY cast off.

Cast on and work as left back/front piece but cast off for armhole after the first 38 sts beg from WS and cast on new sts from RS.

Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 38-38-40-40-44-44 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 4 mm with 1 strand BabyAlpaca + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work 2 ridges. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm and work in stocking st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. When piece measures 11-12-12-13-12-11 cm, inc 1 st inside 1 edge st and K 1 in each side of piece - read INCREASE TIP (= 2 sts inc). Repeat inc every 4-3-3-2½-2½-2½ cm 11-13-13-15-15-16 times in total = 60-64-66-70-74-76 sts. When piece measures 53-53-53-53-51-51 cm (NOTE: Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of broader shoulders), cast off for sleeve cap at beg of every row as follows: Cast off 4 sts 5 times in total in each side = 20-24-26-30-34-36 sts. Cast off the remaining sts, piece measures approx. 58-58-58-58-56-56 cm. Knit another sleeve.

Sew cast-on edges tog in outer loops of edge sts. Sew in sleeves. Sew underarm seams inside 1 edge st.


= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= K 2 tog
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
= 1 YO between 2 sts
= knitting direction

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 173-6) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (28)

Hayly Wiggins 23.02.2020 - 16:52:

I love this pattern! I am working on my sleeve and have a question about the first increase. The pattern says “inc 1 at inside 1 edge st and K1 in each side of piece. I read this as 3 inc stitches, but the next line is -read increase tip (= 2 sts inc). Does this mean that I only do an increase stitch on one side of the piece?

Melanie 18.02.2020 - 20:08:

Sorry, es sollte natürlich "Hallo Drops Design" und "ich hänge auch hier" und nicht "Haengesessel" heißen. LG

Melanie 18.02.2020 - 20:02:

Hallo Mona, ich haengesessel auch hier: GLEICHZEITIG in der ersten R 2 M über jedem Linksbereich à 4 M abnehmen (indem 2 M re zusgestr werden). Stricke ich 2x2 oder 4x2 M re. Zusammen? Danke für deine Antwort. Herzliche Grüße Melanie

DROPS Design 19.02.2020 kl. 09:08:

Liebe Melanie, alle Maschen stricken Sie jetzt rechts (Krausrippe), dh die Abnahmen werden über die linke Maschen mit 2 M rechts zusammen gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Karola Hunger 02.02.2020 - 12:38:

In der Anleitung wird Babyalpaka Silk in mittelgrau angegeben. Diese Farbe steht aber nicht zur Auswahl. Da gibt es nur hellgrau und grau. Welche Farbe ist gemeint? LG Karola

DROPS Design 03.02.2020 kl. 10:07:

Liebe Frau Hunger, die Farbennamen sind regelmäßig akualisiert/verbessert, die Farbennummer ist aber die richtige, dh Farbe Nr 8465. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Mona 21.12.2019 - 21:02:

Ich verstehe diesen Satz der Anleitung nicht: GLEICHZEITIG in der ersten R 2 M über jedem Linksbereich à 4 M abnehmen (indem 2 M re zusgestr werden) Was ist das Linksteil? Wo muss ich zusammenstricken?

DROPS Design 02.01.2020 kl. 09:50:

Liebe Mona, die Maschen sind auf der Nadel so verteilt, daß Sie 2 Mal 4 linke Maschen ( bei Hin-Reihen, dh rechte Maschen bei Rückreihen) stricken. Diese linke Maschen sollen Sie jetzt abnehmen, dh 2 Maschen rechts zusammen x 2 über diese 4 linken Maschen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Sophia 18.03.2019 - 18:19:

I am reading the pattern at the moment and don't understand the last few rows of the left back/front piece. It says to "work 3 ridges - at the same time on first row dec 2 sts over each P section of 4 sts (dec by K2 tog)" which makes me think I should still be following the repeating pattern. However, I thought ridges were two rows of K - that's what it says earlier - so I'm not sure what I should be doing! Please can you help? Thank you.

DROPS Design 19.03.2019 kl. 10:06:

Dear Sophia, you are right 1 ridge = 2 rows of K - when you have to work the 3 ridges, you will decrease 1 stitch in each of the P-sections with 4 sts (= A.3) when working the first row of these 3 riddges, ie you knit all sts and at the same time decrease by K2 tog the previous sections worked with P4. Happy knitting!

Claudia Ashley 14.09.2018 - 11:20:

Hello I am reading the pattern at the moment but I am stuck on the repeating pattern .if I cast 144 stitches and then knit following the pattern A1 2stitches then repeat A2-A3 10 tiMrs then A2 and finish with A1i calculate that to 132 stitches. So what do I miss what do I do with the 10 stitches which are left?

DROPS Design 14.09.2018 kl. 13:15:

Dear Mrs Ashley, you work: A.1 (= 2 sts), then repeat *A.2 (= 8 sts), A.3 (= 4 sts)* a total of 11 times (= over the next 132 sts), you have now worked 134 sts, 10 sts remain on left needle, work A.2 (= 8 sts) and A.1 (= 2 sts). Happy knitting!

Leslie Jarvis 14.08.2018 - 13:21:

Thanks for your prompt reply! However I’m still not understanding the directions for binding off for the sleeve cap. If I’m making the smallest size and begin with a total of 60 sts, I begin the next row by binding off four sts, which leaves me with 56 sts. I turn the work, bind off another 4 and so on 3 more times, which is a total of 20 sts bound off and my remaining st count is 40, not 20.

DROPS Design 14.08.2018 kl. 16:26:

Dear Mrs Jarvis, there are 60 sts after all increases have been done, now cast off 4 sts at the beginning of every row on each side (= both from RS and from WS) a total of 5 times: *work 1 RS row casting off the first 4 sts, turn and cast off 4 sts at the beg of next row from WS* ( = 8 sts are now cast off in total, 4 on each side), repeeat from *-* a total of 5 times (= 8 sts x 5 = 40 sts are now cast off = 60-40= 20 sts remain. Happy knitting!

Leslie Jarvis 14.08.2018 - 05:00:

I have a question about the directions for casting off the sleeve cap. It says at the beginning of every row “Cast off 4 sts 5 times in total in each side = 20-24-26-30-34-36 sts.” Are the numbers 20-24-26 etc the total number of sts cast off, or the total number of sts remaining? My understanding of the directions is that I should cast off 4sts at the beginning of each row for the next 5 rows, but I’m not sure I have that correct.

DROPS Design 14.08.2018 kl. 07:57:

Dear Leslie, yes, the number 20-24-26-30-34-36 refers to the number of stitches left on the needles after you cast of. You understand the directions correctly, you have to cast of the 4 stitches at the beginning of every row for the next row. Happy Knitting!

Karlijn 01.11.2017 - 10:43:

Hoi, Ik heb het vest af en het patroon is prachtig geworden. Nu heb ik alleen nog een vraag over het in model krijgen van het vest. Wat moet ik doen om het zo in model te krijgen zoals op de foto? Als ik het nu aan trek dan zit het nog niet helemaal zoals het zou moeten. Alvast bedankt!

DROPS Design 01.11.2017 kl. 18:42:

Hallo Karlijn, Waarschijnlijk bedoel je dat het kantpatroon nog een beetje 'in elkaar zit'. Om het mooi plat te krijgen pers ik dit altijd op met het strijkijzer. Maar LET OP: doe dit heel voorzichtig. Gebruik een oude theedoek, bevochtig deze en leg deze over het werk heen op de strijplank. Dan heel voorzichtig en kort met het strijkijzer er over.

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