DROPS / 167 / 23

Stay Longer by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jumper with raglan, worked top down in ”Melody” and “Glitter”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no ml-010
Yarn group D
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
DROPS MELODY from Garnstudio
250-250-300-300-350-350 g colour no 01, off white
und use:
DROPS GLITTER from Garnstudio
2 spools colour no 01, gold

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 7 mm – or size needed to get 13 sts x 15 rows in stocking st with 1 strand Melody + 2 strands Glitter = 10 x 10 cm.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

71% Alpaca, 25% Wool, 4% Polyamide
from 3.50 £ /50g
DROPS Melody uni colour DROPS Melody uni colour 3.50 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd

60% Cupro, 40% Metal
from 1.60 £ /10g
DROPS Glitter colours DROPS Glitter colours 2.60 £ /10g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Glitter gold & silver DROPS Glitter gold & silver 1.60 £ /10g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.70£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

Inc every other round:
Inc 16 sts as follows:
Beg 2 sts before marker and work as follows: Work 2 sts in first st, 1 YO, K 2 (marker is in the middle of these sts), 1 YO, work 2 sts in next st = 16 sts inc. On next round K the YO to make hole.
Inc 8 sts as follows:
Beg 1 st before marker and work as follows: 1 YO, K 2 (marker is between these sts), 1 YO = 8 sts inc. On next round K the YO to make hole.

Inc 1 st on each side of marker in the sides as follows: Work until 1 st before marker, 1 YO, K 2 (marker is in the middle of these sts), 1 YO. On next round K the YOs to make holes.
Work as follows on next inc:
Work until 2 st before marker, 1 YO, K 4 (marker is in the middle of these sts), 1 YO. On next round K the YOs to make holes. Continue inc like this - beg 1 st more before marker for every inc.

Worked in the round from top down.

Cast on 60-64-68-72-72-76 sts on a short circular needle size 7 mm with 1 strand Melody and 2 strands Glitter. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME inc 12-8-12-16-24-32 sts evenly = 72-72-80-88-96-108 sts. Insert 4 markers in the piece as follows - from mid back: Work 13-13-15-17-19-22 sts in stocking st (= half back piece), insert 1 marker, work 10 sts in stocking st (= sleeve), insert 1 marker, work 26-26-30-34-38-44 sts in stocking st (= front piece), insert 1 marker, work 10 sts in stocking st (= sleeve), insert 1 marker, finish with 13-13-15-17-19-22 sts in stocking st (= half back piece). READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING:
Then work in stocking st AT THE SAME TIME inc on each side of every marker - READ INCREASE TIP RAGLAN.
Inc every other round as follows: Inc 16 st 1-3-3-3-4-5 times, then inc 8 sts 11-9-10-11-11-10 times. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION After all inc for raglan there are 176-192-208-224-248-268 sts on round and piece measures approx. 15-15-17-18-19-19 cm from cast-on edge. Work next round as follows: Work 26-28-31-34-38-42 sts (= half back piece), slip the next 36-40-42-44-48-50 sts on 1 stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 6 new sts (= under sleeve), work 52-56-62-68-76-84 sts (= front piece), slip the next 36-40-42-44-48-50 sts on 1 stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 6 new sts (= under sleeve), work the remaining 26-28-31-34-38-42 sts (= half back piece).

= 116-124-136-148-164-180 sts. Insert a marker in each side, in the middle of the 6 new sts that were cast on. Continue in stocking st, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! When piece measures 3 cm, inc 1 st on each side of markers in the sides (= 4 sts inc) - READ INCREASE TIP BODY. Repeat inc every 3-3-3-3½-3½-3½ cm 9 more times = 156-164-176-188-204-220 sts. Continue in stocking st until piece measures 34-36-36-37-38-40 cm, work 2 ridges over all sts, cast off. The whole piece measures approx. 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm.

Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Slip the 36-40-42-44-48-50 sts from stitch holder in one side of piece back on double pointed needles size 7 mm and cast in addition on 6 new sts mid under sleeve = 42-46-48-50-54-56 sts. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the new sts, MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Work in stocking st in the round. AT THE SAME TIME after 3 cm, dec 1 st on each side of marker, dec by K sts tog 2 by 2. Repeat dec every 7-4½-4½-3½-3-2½ cm 4-6-6-7-8-9 more times = 32-32-34-34-36-36 sts. When sleeve measures 34-34-33-32-32-31 cm, work rib K 2/P 2 over all sts for 3 cm. Cast off sts with K over K and P over P. Work the other sleeve the same way.

Sew the openings under the sleeves.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 167-23) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (24)

Corinne Calame 04.08.2020 - 09:43:

Good morning. I would like to knit this jumper ‘stay longer’ in a cotton rather than the Drops wool recommended. I have knitted my trial 10 x10 cm square And know I need to multiply the number of stitches by 1.4 to arrive at the correct size. My concern is whether the design of the jumper will work with a cotton yarn on size 4 needles. Thank you for your help!

DROPS Design 04.08.2020 kl. 09:49:

Dear Mrs Calame, using an alternative you should make sure that you get the right tension - read more here - you will find even more informations about alternatives here. Happy knitting!

RDiana 05.04.2019 - 17:48:

Correctie het nr was ml-029 (zie mijn vraag hiervoor) mvg

DROPS Design 06.04.2019 kl. 21:03:

Dag RDiana,

Het kan inderdaad zijn dat er minder stemmen waren op dat patroon. In dat geval is het patroon nog niet gepubliceerd, maar tot en met de zomer worden er patronen gepubliceerd van de Lente & Zomer collectie. Ik heb het even nagekeken en ml-029 wordt naar verwachting eind april gepubliceerd.

RDiana 05.04.2019 - 17:42:

Hallo, ik heb niet een vraag over dit patroon maar kan nergens anders een linkje vinden waar ik het kan vragen. Enige tijd terug (paar weken) een zo leuk nieuw patroon van een tuniek gezien wat gemaakt was van Melody garen en waar je op kon stemmen. Nu kan ik dit tuniek echt nergens meer vinden, is dat omdat er te weinig op gestemd is? Want ik zou het heel graag willen maken. Het nr wat er toen bij stond was nl-029. Hoop dat het toch nog ergens te vinden is, mvg

Arbid 13.12.2018 - 08:31:

Bonjour,j'aimerai réalisé le modele sans l'ajout de drops glitter,est ce possible?Merci.

DROPS Design 13.12.2018 kl. 09:28:

Bonjour Mme Arbid, tout à fait, Glitter ne change pas la tension, il apporte juste une délicate touche de brillant. Bon tricot!

Inger 15.11.2018 - 17:05:

Hei. Hva er overvidde og lengde på di forskjellige str? Syns det er vanskelig å finne frem til dette. Mh inger

DROPS Design 16.11.2018 kl. 07:10:

Hei Inger. Nederst på siedn finner du en målskisse med alle plaggets mål. Overvidde over bryst er: 44-48-52-57-63-69 cm. Lenge er: 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm. God fornøyelse.

Mia Germ 16.05.2018 - 13:13:

Ik zou graag deze trui maken met drops Big Delight, zou dat kunnen of is er een ander patroon dat in aanmerking komt aub?

DROPS Design 16.05.2018 kl. 16:19:

Hallo Mia, Dat zou kunnen als je handig bent in het omrekenen van een patroon, want Big Delight zit in garengroep C en heeft dus een andere stekenverhouding. Misschien kun je hier een geschikt patroon vinden. (Gezocht met de zoektermen: truien, makkelijke patronen, en garengroep C)

Sue Sims 03.11.2017 - 13:02:

Doesn't seem much point in having a diagram with measurements if it's wrong!

Sue Sims 02.11.2017 - 21:04:

In the instructions it seems that the front and back are the same, yet the diagram shows the back neck as higher than the front neck. How is this possible?

DROPS Design 03.11.2017 kl. 09:26:

Dear Mrs Sims, chart is a standard one, but there will be no higher neck on back piece on this pattern. Happy knitting!

Ragnhild Davidsen 11.10.2017 - 06:12:

Kan/skal denne genser i Melody dampes?

DROPS Design 11.10.2017 kl. 12:51:

Hei Ragnhild! Vi anbefaler ikke å dampe Melody da fibrene kan ødelegges. Eventuelt kan du børste genseren lett med en bløt børste.

Ann Helene Andersen 06.12.2016 - 13:41:

Kan jeg bruke en tråd fra garngrupp A og en tråd fra garngruppe C på en oppskrfft i garngruppe D? Eller må jeg da finne en oppskrift i en annen garngruppe?

DROPS Design 06.12.2016 kl. 15:16:

Hej Ann Helene. Jeg er ikke helt sikker, men jeg tror det kan gaa. Det bedste er om du strikker en pröve först og ser hvordan strukturen og selvfölgelig strikkefastheden er.

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