DROPS / 168 / 29

Graceful Mermaid by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS poncho with lace pattern, worked top down in ”Cotton Merino”. Size: S - XXXL.

Tags: ponchos, top down,
  • Graceful Mermaid / DROPS 168-29 - Crochet DROPS poncho with lace pattern, worked top down in ”Cotton Merino”. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS design: Pattern no cm-048
Yarn group B
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Size: S/M - L/XL - XXL /XXXL
Materials:
DROPS COTTON MERINO from Garnstudio
650-750-800 g colour no 09, ice blue

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 mm – or size needed to get 20 tr x 10 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 3.40 £ /50g
DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour 3.40 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 44.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.16.

CROCHET INFO:
Replace first tr at beg of every tr row with 3 ch.
Replace first dtr at beg of every dtr row with 4 ch.
Replace first dc at beg of every dc row with 1 ch.
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PONCHO:
The poncho is the same at the front and back with opening in the sides. Work back and forth, top down.

RIGHT SHOULDER - FRONT PIECE:
Work 80-98-117 ch on hook size 3.5 mm with Cotton Merino. Turn and work 1 tr in 4th ch from hook (= 2 tr), 1 tr in each of the next 1-4-3 ch, * skip 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 63-78-93 tr (incl 2 edge sts in the side).
Work next row (= from RS) as follows: READ CROCHET INFO! 1 tr in each of the first 2 tr (= edge sts), A.1 over the next 7 tr, A.2 over the next 45-60-75 tr (=3-4-5 times), finish with A.4 over the next 9 tr. Work to and with 6th row. Put piece aside and work left shoulder. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!

LEFT SHOULDER - FRONT PIECE:
Work first row as on right shoulder - front piece = 63-78-93 tr.
Work next row (= from RS) as follows: A.5 over the first 7 tr, A.2 over the next 45-60-75 tr (=3-4-5 times), A.3 over the next 9 tr, finish with 1 tr in each of the next 2 tr (= edge sts). Work to and with 6th row - NOTE: Fasten sl st at the end of A.5 in right shoulder so that the shoulder are fastened tog. Cut the yarn and beg to work from RS over both shoulders.

FRONT PIECE:
Continue on diagram (= 7th row), i.e. work next row (= from RS) as follows: 1 dc in each of the first 2 tr (= edge sts), A.1 over the next 7 tr, A.2 over the next 135-165-195 tr/ch (= 9-11-13 times) - NOTE: See last row in A.4/A.5 on how 7th row is worked over the middle 2 repetitions, A.3 over the next 9 tr, finish with 1 dc in each of the next 2 tr (= edge st). Work diagram A.1/A.2/A.3 1 time in total vertically (NOTE! You also begin and finish with 1 dc in first and last 2 dc's on row 8 and hereafter you work 1 tr in first 2 and last st on remaining rows)= 155-185-215 tr on last row.
Work next row (= from WS) as follows: 1 tr in each of the first 2 tr, A.10 over the next 51-66-69 tr (= 17-22-23 times), A.9 over the next 13 tr, A.8 over the next 24-24-48 tr (= 1-1-2 times), A.7 over the next 12 tr, A.6 over the next 51-66-69 tr (= 17-22-23 times), finish with 1 tr in each of the next 2 tr. Work to and with 3rd row. Then work A.X 2-2-3 times in total vertically. Then work A.Y 1-1-0 times in total vertically.
Work next row (= from RS) as follows: Work 1 tr in every tr/dc, 1 tr around every ch, 2 tr around every ch-space with 2 ch, 3 tr around every ch-space with 3 ch and 4 tr around every ch-space with 5 ch = 155-185-215 tr.
Work next row (= from WS) as follows: Work 1 tr in each of the first 2 tr, A.3 over the next 9 tr, A.2 over the next 135-165-195 tr (= 9-11-13 times), A.1 over the next 7 tr, finish with 1 tr in each of the next 2 tr. Work A.3/A.2/A.1 1 time in total vertically = 155-185-215 tr on last row.
Work next row (= from RS) as follows: Work 1 tr in each of the first 2 tr, A.11 over the next 7 tr, A.12 over the next 135-165-195 tr (= 9-11-13 times), A.13 over the next 7 tr, finish with 1 tr in each of the next 2 tr. Work A.11/A.12/A.13 1 time in total vertically.
Work next row (= from WS) as follows: Work 1 tr in each of the first 2 tr, A.16 over A.13, A.15 over A.12 and A.14 over A.11. Then work 4th and 5th row in A.1/A.2/A.3, i.e. work next row (= from RS) as follows: Work 1 tr in each of the first 2 tr, A.1 over A.14, A.2 over A.15, A.3 over A.16, finish with 1 tr in each of the next 2 tr. Fasten off.

LEFT SHOULDER - BACK PIECE:
Work in left shoulder on front piece but in opposite direction, beg from WS. Instead of working ch and first tr-row work as follows: Work 1 dc in each of the 78-93-108 tr. Then work as right shoulder - front piece.

RIGHT SHOULDER - BACK PIECE:
Work in right shoulder on front piece but in opposite direction, beg from WS. Instead of working ch and first tr-row work as follows: Work 1 dc in each of the 78-93-108 tr. Then work as left shoulder - front piece.

BACK PIECE:
Continue as on front piece.

NECK EDGE:
Beg on one shoulder, work as follows along the entire neck from RS: 2 dc around every tr-row, 1 ch, 3 dc around every dtr row/ch-space, 1 ch etc. Finish with 1 sl st in first dc. Fasten off.

TWINED STRING:
Cut 2 lengths Cotton Merino yarn of 6 metres each. Twine the strands tog until they resist, fold the string double so that it twines again. Tie a knot in each end and thread it through a hole in the side on front and back piece, approx. 26-27-28 cm down from shoulder, tie a bow. Make another string and fasten it to the other side of poncho.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 31.08.2016
Several changes to pattern in all 3 sizes; no of stitches, repeats of A.2 and few minor changes.
Updated online: 08.06.2017
FRONT PIECE(was written 4 sizes, but it is only 3 sizes):
... Work to and with 3rd row. Then work A.X 2-2-3 times in total vertically. Then work A.Y 1-1-0 times in total vertically...
Updated online: 19.03.2019
Correction: whether it is worked from RS or WS has been corrected several places on front piece

Diagram

symbols = ch
symbols = dc in st
symbols = dc around ch
symbols = 2 ch
symbols = 3 ch
symbols = 4 ch
symbols = 5 ch
symbols = 6 ch
symbols = 7 ch
symbols = 8 ch
symbols = tr in st
symbols = tr around ch/ch-space
symbols = 2 tr tog: Work 1 tr in st but wait with last pull through (= 2 loops on hook), then work next tr in next tr but on last pull through, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook
symbols = 2 tr tog around ch-space
symbols = 2 tr tog in same tr
symbols = dtr in tr
symbols = dtr around ch/ch-space
symbols = triple tr around ch/ch-space
symbols = last row on previous diagram/pattern, this row has already been worked
symbols = shows how next row in A.2 is worked over these ch
symbols = sl st in 4th ch
symbols = crochet direction
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 168-29) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (83)

country flag Lucette 04.09.2020 - 17:57:

Bonjour, Le schéma A13 ne devrait-il pas se faire sur 7 brides au lieu des 9 indiquées ? Je suis allée voir dans le modèle original et là ils écrivent bien sur 7 brides je crois. Neste rad (= fra retten) hekles slik: Hekle 1 st i hver av de første 2 st, A.11 over de neste 7 st, A.12 over de neste 135-165-195 st (= 9-11-13 ganger), A.13 over de neste 7 st, avslutt med 1 st i hver av de neste 2 st. Hekle A.11/A.12/A.13 totalt 1 gang i høyden.

user icon DROPS Design 07.09.2020 kl. 08:11:

Bonjour Lucette, effectivement, mais l'erreur vient probablement de la correction lorsqu'elle a été faite en norvégien, car A.13 se crochète bien sur 9 brides comme le montre le schéma: 2 brides, A.11 (= 7 m) A.12 (= 135-165-195 m), A.13 (= 9 m), 2 b= 2+7+135-165-195+9+2=155-185-215 m. Merci pour votre retour, la correction va être faite. Bon crochet!

country flag RaeGina 28.07.2020 - 17:57:

Hello, I have completed the front and I am about to start the back. I am confused as how to start. Do I chain and continue, then sew the shoulder seams? Or do I crochet into the beginning chain of the front? Thanks!

user icon DROPS Design 29.07.2020 kl. 11:31:

Dear RaeGina, the shoulders on back piece are worked in the chain stitches of shoulders on front piece, ie instead of starting with the foundation chain, crochet 1 single crochet in each of the given double crochets of the shoulder, front piece. Happy crocheting!

country flag Laurie 10.06.2020 - 09:35:

Pour moi le rang 7 est sur l'envers et non sur l'endroit ? faut il joindre en fin de 6ème rang par une mc ou au milieu du 7ème rang ? et comment ? je suis complètement perdue impossible de comprendre le diagramme

user icon DROPS Design 10.06.2020 kl. 12:33:

Bonjour Laurie, le 1er rang des diagrammes a été crocheté sur l'endroit, tous les rang impairs sont donc sur l'endroit, y compris le 7ème rang. Les 2 épaules sont assemblées entre elles à la fin du 6ème rang de l'épaule gauche (= 1 mc dans l'épaule droite). Bon crochet!

country flag Paige 13.03.2019 - 16:28:

Merci pour votre réponse! Pour moi le 1er "endroit" était juste, c'est le suivant et tout ce qui suit qui est inversé. Du moins il me semble en tous les cas c'est comme ça que j'ai fait^^ merci encore!

user icon DROPS Design 14.03.2019 kl. 09:40:

Bonjour Paige, il semble effectivement que les rangs envers/endroit ont été inversés, nos stylistes vont vérifier pour que la correction soit faite, merci. Bon crochet!

country flag Paige 13.03.2019 - 13:12:

Bonjour Merci pour ce modèle que je me régale à crocheter! Il me semble qu'il y a une erreur sur l'indication endroit/envers car pour le devant il est écrit: "Crocheter le rang suivant (= sur l'ENDROIT) ainsi: (...) Crocheter le rang suivant (= sur l'ENDROIT)" 2 rangs de suite à l'endroit? c'est impossible non?merci beaucoup

user icon DROPS Design 13.03.2019 kl. 15:04:

Bonjour Paige et merci, effectivement, après A.X et A.Y (devant), le rang suivant se crochète sur l'envers = 155-185-215 B, puis on crochète le rang suivant sur l'endroit. La correction a été faite, merci. Bon crochet!

country flag Debby 08.03.2019 - 10:48:

Ik loop vast! Ik ben bij de rechterschouder en ben begonnen met 98 steken ben nu in de rij waar ik in A1 7 steken 3 lossen en dan een vaste moet doen en ze zeggen dan de volgende 60 steken als A2 dan hebben ze het over A4 nog 9 steken. Valt A3 nu weg ? En ga ik over in A4 of komt A4 gewoon na A3 alleen 78 min min 7 A1 en min 60 A2 dan hou ik er nog 11 over. Heb ik iets fout gedaan.

user icon DROPS Design 11.04.2019 kl. 15:30:

Dag Debby,

Voor de rechter schouder hoef je A.3 inderdaad niet te haken en haak je inderdaad A.4.

country flag Mourdon 09.01.2019 - 21:18:

Bonjour, J'aimerais faire ce modèle mais je ne sais pas quelle quantité de laine commander

user icon DROPS Design 10.01.2019 kl. 09:27:

Bonjour Mme Mourdon, vous trouverez la quantité nécessaire pour chaque taille indiquée au poids sous l'en-tête, par ex, en taille S/M il faut 650 g DROPS Cotton Merino / 50 g la pelote = 13 pelotes en taille S/M. Bon crochet!

country flag Willa 22.09.2018 - 21:44:

The very first row of this pattern says \\\"skip ch 1\\\"? What exactly does this mean?

user icon DROPS Design 22.09.2018 kl. 22:41:

Dear Willa, this means skip 1 chain stitch from the beginning chain row - so you will crochet not into this chain stitch, but into the next one. Happy crocheting!

country flag Sharon 14.07.2018 - 19:11:

Hi there, I'm slightly confused - it says you work the pattern back and forth from top down. Do you also read the pattern graphic back and forth or only from the right? Or do you need to work rows 3 - 6 in one direction only in order to get increases in A.4? Many thanks Sharon

user icon DROPS Design 15.07.2018 kl. 14:36:

Hi Sharon, You read the diagram starting at the bottom, from right to left when working from the right side and from left to right on the wrong side. Happy crocheting!

country flag Marie 25.06.2018 - 06:07:

Sur l’epaule Gauche on doute faire a5 a2 et a3 Doit on faire a5 de droite vers la gauche et a2 et a3 aussi de droite vers gauche et ensuite le contraire

user icon DROPS Design 25.06.2018 kl. 09:23:

Bonjour Marie, pour l'épaule gauche, on crochète les diagrammes comme indiqué dans la réponse précédente, soit sur l'endroit: A.5, A.2, A.3 et sur l'envers: A.3, A.2, A.5. Bon crochet!

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