DROPS / 168 / 5

Mer Bleue by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS shawl with stripes and wave pattern in ”Fabel”.

DROPS design: Pattern no fa-330
Yarn group A
Measurements (before shaping): approx. 70 cm measured mid back, and approx. 140 cm along the edge at the top.
Measurements (after shaping): approx. 75 cm measured mid back, and approx. 166 cm along the edge at the top.
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
150 g colour no 914, shoreline
100 g colour no 100, off white
NOTE: If the shawl is worked with one colour 185 g Fabel are used.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 2.50 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

See diagrams A.1 to A.4. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

Work mid st in stocking st on all rows with stocking st in diagram, but on rows in diagram that are worked K from WS work mid st also like this.

* 4 rows shoreline, 2 rows off white, 10 rows shoreline, 2 rows off white *, repeat from *-*.

When 1 ridge off white has been worked, cut and fasten the yarn. The strand in shoreline can follows upwards but make sure to avoid a tight strand. The fastening of the strand must not be tight either.

The shawl is worked back and forth on circular needle to make room for all the sts. Worked from neckline mid back and down.

Cast on 7 sts on circular needle size 4 mm with shoreline. Insert 1 marker in the 4th st (= mid st) and move it upwards when working. Work diagram A.1 as follows: Work 2 edge sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above, A.1 over 1 st, 1 st in stocking st (= mid st), A.1 over 1 st and 2 edge sts in garter st = 11 sts. Continue with A.1 on each side of mid st (work mid st in stocking st in entire A.1), when diagram has been worked, 1 time vertically, there are 43 sts on row (i.e. 21 sts on each side of mid st). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION

Then work STRIPES – see explanation above and pattern as follows: NOTE: READ TIP FOR CHANGING YARN!
Work according to diagram A.2-A.4 as follows: 2 edge sts in garter st, A.2 over 1 st, A.3 over 17 sts, A.4 over 1 st, K 1 (= MID ST - see explanation above), A.2 over 1 st, A.3 over 17 sts, A.4 over 1 st and 2 edge sts in garter st. When diagrams have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 111 sts on needle (i.e. there are 55 sts on each side of mid st) and there is now room for 1 more repetition of A.3 on each side of A.3 on each side of shawl. Continue to work according to A.2-A.4 until diagrams have been worked 6 times in total vertically = 451 sts. Then work the first 6 rows in A.2-A.4. The stripes are now done, and continue in off white until finished measurements. Continue with the remaining 12 rows in diagram. Then work A.2-A.4 1 more time vertically.
There are now 587 sts on needle (i.e. 293 sts on each side of mid st). Loosely cast off as follows with off white: * Cast off 3 sts, 1 YO, cast off YO *, repeat from *-* the rest of row.

Place the piece in lukewarm water until it is soaking wet. Carefully squeeze out the water - do not twist. Then roll the piece in a towel and squeeze to remove more water - the piece will now only be moist. Place the piece on a carpet or mattress - carefully stretch it out to measurements found at the top of pattern. Leave to dry. Repeat the process when the garment has been washed.


= K from RS, P from WS
= K from WS, P from RS
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
= K 2 tog
= 1 double YO between 2 sts Drop the first YO off the needle on next row. Work the second YO as shown in diagram.
= 1 YO between 2 sts, work YO twisted on next row
= YO between 2 sts, K YO on next row

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 168-5) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (16)

Damaris 29.01.2020 - 10:59:

Hallo ich verstehe nicht, wie man nach A.1 auf 43M kommt. .lt Foto sind recht schnell und links der MM auch Umschläge, die ich aber in der Anleitung nicht finde. Auch verstehe ich nicht, wie der breite Rand entsteht. Für eine Antwort wäre ich sehr dankbar.... Vielen Dank für Eure Hilfe.

DROPS Design 29.01.2020 kl. 13:51:

Liebe Damaris, wenn A.1 fertig ist sind es 19 Maschen, dh die Maschen liegen so auf der Nadel: 2 M kraus re, 19 M von A.1, 1 Masche glatt recht, 19 M von A.1, 1 Masche glatt recht, 2 Maschen Kraus re = 2+19+1+19+2= 43 M. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Tove 28.05.2019 - 19:39:

Hei. Skjønner ikke helt hvordan jeg skal felle av dette sjalet. Felle 3 masker er greit, men kast også felle kastet. Hvordan gjør jeg det?

DROPS Design 29.05.2019 kl. 14:34:

Hei Tove. Du lager et kast hver 3. maske, og feller dette av på akkurat samme måte som en vanlig maske. Her er en video av hvordan dette gjøres: god fornøyelse

Renate 27.04.2019 - 10:17:

Hallo, wo muss ich jeweils einen Farbwechsel einarbeiten?

DROPS Design 29.04.2019 kl. 08:44:

Liebe Renate, Farbwechsel entsteht am Anfang einer Hinreihen. Sie können auch die Farbe nach den 2 ersten Maschen kraus rechts - siehe Video. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Martinelli Francoise 04.01.2019 - 16:46:

Bonjour bonne année merci pour ce merveilleux modele 168 5 pourquoi ne puis je imprimer merci. Fa

DROPS Design 07.01.2019 kl. 08:17:

Bonjour Mme Martinelli, nous avons réussi un test d'impression de ce modèle, vérifiez bien les paramètres de votre imprimante - si ça ne fonctionne toujours pas, nettoyez le cache de votre navigateur et essayez à nouveau. Bon tricot!

Loredana 11.05.2017 - 09:49:

Buongiorno! Mi spiegate cosa significa una gettata doppia tra due maglie? Guardando ii diagramma vedo il simbolo della gettata doppia,quindi un diritto e di nuovo una gettata doppia.... Grazie Loredana

DROPS Design 11.05.2017 kl. 10:12:

Buongiorno Loredana. Nel video sotto trova spiegato come lavorare una maglia gettata doppia. Buon lavoro!

Rous 04.09.2016 - 15:24:

Un grand Merci pour l'explication je comprends mieux le diagramme . A très bientôt.

Rous 02.09.2016 - 15:11:

Bonjour, Je ne comprend pas la deuxieme partie du diagrame avec les 55m de chaque coté de l'ouvrage jai bien le nombre de maille 55m . Pourriez vous l'expliquer en video ?

DROPS Design 02.09.2016 kl. 15:49:

Bonjour Mme Rous, quand vous avez tricoté 1 fois les diagrammes en hauteur, vous avez suffisamment de mailles pour tricoter 1 fois de plus le diagramme A.3 de chaque côté des diagrammes A.3 précédents, c'est-à-dire répétez les diagrammes en hauteur la 2ème fois ainsi: 2 m point mousse, A.2, 3 x A.3, A.4, 1 m end, A.2, 3xA.3, A.4 et 2 m point mousse (=111 m au 1er rang). La 3ème fois, tricotez 5 fois A.3 et ainsi de suite. Bon tricot!

Patricia 08.07.2016 - 22:23:

Merci pour l'explication je comprends mieux. A bientôt

Patricia 07.07.2016 - 20:00:

Bonjour, Je ne comprend pas le début de l'ouvrage. Pourriez vous l'expliquer en video ?

DROPS Design 08.07.2016 kl. 10:36:

Bonjour Patricia, la vidéo ci-dessous montre comment réaliser les diagrammes A.1-A4 sur un modèle similaire. Bon tricot!

Amelia 03.07.2016 - 15:43:

Ich versteh leider nicht so ganz wie ich den Rapport von A3 2x stricken soll. Einmal A2 bis A4 komplett und dann nur A3 und dann wieder A2 bis A3 ist das so gemeint?

DROPS Design 06.07.2016 kl. 08:26:

Liebe Amelia, Sie stricken - auf beiden Seiten der Mitte - wie folgt: A.2, die entsprechende Anzahl A.3 und dann A.4. Da das Tuch wächst, erhöht sich die Anzahl A.3 (mit jedem abgeschlossenen Musterrapport in der Höhe) wie in der Anleitung aufgeführt.

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