DROPS Extra / 0-1164

Neuqu by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS poncho with Nordic pattern in ”Nepal”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no ne-175
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
350-400-400-450-500-550 g colour no 0500, light grey
100 g for all sizes in colour no 0100, off white
100 g for all sizes in colour no 8038, light olive
50 g for all sizes in colour no 8911, sea blue
50 g for all sizes in colour no 8909, coral
50 g for all sizes in colour no 8910, raspberry rose

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.50 € /50g
DROPS Nepal uni colour DROPS Nepal uni colour 2.50 € /50g
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DROPS Nepal mix DROPS Nepal mix 2.65 € /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 35.00€. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Work entire pattern in stocking st.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the knitting tension to tighten when working pattern, it is important not to tighten the strands on back side of piece. Switch to a higher needle no when working pattern if the pattern is somewhat tight.

DECREASE TIP:
To calculate how often dec should be done, use the total no of sts on round (e.g. 264 sts) and divide by no of dec to be done (e.g. 32) = 8.25. I.e. in this example K approx. every 7th and 8th st tog.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next round work YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead front) to avoid holes.
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PONCHO:
Work back and forth on circular needle up to vent, then work in the round.

BACK PIECE (up to vent):
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 106-114-118-130-138-150 sts on circular needle size 5 mm with light grey. Work 3 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above (1st row = WS). K 1 row. Then work in stocking st with 5 sts in garter st in each side of piece. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 13-14-15-16-17-18 cm, dec 1 edge st in each side, adjust so that next row is worked from RS = 104-112-116-128-136-148 sts. Put piece aside and work front piece up to vent.

FRONT PIECE (up to vent):
Cast on and work as back piece.

BODY:
Worked in the round.
Slip sts front and back piece on to same circular needle = 208-224-232-256-272-296 sts. Then work in stocking st and light grey until piece measures 30-32-34-36-38-40 cm. Then work pattern in the round according to diagram A.1 while AT THE SAME TIME on round marked with arrow 1 in diagram dec 6-8-8-10-10-12 sts evenly - READ DECREASE TIP and KNITTING TIP = 202-216-224-246-262-284 sts. Continue pattern.
On round marked with arrow 2 in diagram dec 18-24-24-30-30-36 sts evenly = 184-192-200-216-232-248 sts. Continue pattern.
On round marked with arrow 3 in diagram dec 32-32-32-36-44-48 sts evenly = 152-160-168-180-188-200 sts. Continue pattern.
On round marked with arrow 4 in diagram dec 32-34-36-42-44-50 sts evenly = 120-126-132-138-144-150 sts. Continue pattern.
On round marked with arrow 5 in diagram (= last round) dec 34-30-34-36-36-34 sts evenly = 86-96-98-102-108-116 sts.
Work 1 round with light grey while inc 4-6-4-6-6-4 sts evenly - READ INCREASE TIP = 90-102-102-108-114-120 sts. Then work rib in the round = K 2/P 4 on a short circular needle. Loosely cast off with K over K and P over P when rib measures approx. 20 cm.

Diagram

= light grey
= off white
= light olive
= raspberry rose
= coral
= sea blue


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-1164) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (10)

Rafael 24.06.2020 - 16:16:

Hello again! Thanks for the immediate replies so far. Please could you elaborate on your last message as I am a beginner? My question is that I did put both pieces on the same needle and hence I have two tails. I will be using one of these tails to knit in the round but what am I supposed to do with the other tail?

DROPS Design 24.06.2020 kl. 17:08:

Dear Rafael, after you have worked first piece (back piece) and put aside, you can cut the yarn (you then just have to weave it in). Then you work front piece and you work both pieces together in the round with the same ball (= the one from front piece). Happy knititng!

Rafael 22.06.2020 - 18:25:

Hello! According to pattern, I've done the front and back pieces of the poncho and now I am supposed to slip stc them together in the same needle. How do I do it? I've seen a couple of videos of what slip stc is but how do I to put them together? I'm a bit confused with that part. Should I slip stc the sides of each piece together? Should I to do something with the stics that were kept "alive"? Could someone guide me through? Thank you very much.

DROPS Design 23.06.2020 kl. 08:58:

Dear Rafael, work one row from Right side over stitches on front piece, then at the end of this row, work the stitches of back piece from right sided and, when the last of the stitches on back piece has been worked, insert a marker on the needle (= to mark beg of round) and work stitches on front piece = you have joined pieces in the round, continue now knitting all stitches (as before). Happy knitting!

Rafael 23.12.2019 - 12:49:

Hello! In the pattern it says "leave it aside" about the front piece and the same goes for the back piece as well. Does that mean that I have to cast off the last row of each piece? Because later on pattern says that they need to be joined together with slip stitch. So I'm a bit confused. Thanks.

DROPS Design 24.12.2019 kl. 17:02:

Dear Rafael, the phrase +leave it (or put it) aside means that you should either leave the stitches on the needle and make the other pieces with another one, or put the stitches on a stitch holder or a piece of leftover yarn, while making the other bits. It is important that you dont bind off the stitches, but keep them "alive" so you can continue knitting them later. Happy Knitting!

Belén Ramón 04.12.2019 - 17:34:

Podría mandarme a que talla corresponde cada L o XL . Si la L corresponde a talla 46 o 48.... desgraciadamente varía depende de los fabricantes. Creo que sería muy útil. Gracias!!!!

DROPS Design 09.12.2019 kl. 23:54:

Hola Belen. Bajo cada modelo tienes un diagrama de la prenda con las medidas en cm, que es mejor orientación que las tallas. Ante de la duda entre dos tallas, siempre recomendamos elegir la talla más grande . No se puede concretar la correspondencia a las tallas porque esta varia dependiendo del país.

Rafael 21.11.2019 - 19:49:

Hello! pattern suggets: "Work 3 rows in GARTER ST . K 1 row. " Could you please explain to me that? I know that garter st is a pattern rather than a technique and K stands for knit stitch which is the standard knitting stitch (i saw the videos that you also include here). My question is: Do I knit all stitches for the next 3 rows after casting on and then i knit 1 more row? or do i create 3 ridges through garter stitch, which essentially means to knit 6 rows and then knit 1 more row?

DROPS Design 22.11.2019 kl. 08:07:

Dear Rafael, you should in fact work 3 ridges (= knit 6 rows), then work one more row knitting all stitches, and on next row (8th row from the cast on), work in stocking stitch with 5 sts in garter stitch on each side. Pattern will be edited. Thank you, Happy knitting!

Ylva Forss 21.03.2017 - 13:25:

Jag beställde rundstickor nr 5, 40 cm ( trä, kantiga). De har inte kommit. Skulle komma v. 11. Jag har redan betalat dem.

DROPS Design 21.03.2017 kl. 14:47:

Hej Ylva. Du kan bedre kontakte butikken hvor du har bestilt for at höre hvor lang tid der gaar endnu.

YlvavForss 17.03.2017 - 18:23:

Håller på att sticka denna poncho och jag stickar slätstickning nerifrån, enl. instruktionerna skall jag börja sticka mönsterstickning då arbetet mäter 34 cm i mitt fall, men nu måste väl arbetet i sin helhet vara 15 + 34?

Claudia Carolina 22.03.2016 - 11:46:

Mi affascina questo modello e il filato non l'ho ancora usato, sono molto curiosa e spero prossimamente sperimentare l'emozione "Neuquén". Grazie Drops per tanto spunti meravigliosi. Claudia

Claudia Carolina 22.03.2016 - 11:46:

Mi affascina questo modello e il filato non l'ho ancora usato, sono molto curiosa e spero prossimamente sperimentare l'emozione "Neuquén". Grazie Drops per tanto spunti meravigliosi. Claudia

Nella 17.01.2016 - 22:36:

So cute! But I don´t think that is a very nordic pattern…not at all in fact. But very cute poncho anyway!

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