DROPS / 166 / 43

Lothlorien by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket in garter st with lace pattern and shawl collar in "BabyAlpaca Silk" and "Kid-Silk". Size S-XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no bs-085
Yarn group A + A or C
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Size: S/M - L/XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
300-350-400-450 g, colour no 8465, medium grey
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
125-150-175-175 g colour no 10, grey

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 5 mm – or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st with 1 strand of each yarn = 10 x 10 cm. (+ 1 extra circular needle for beg of piece).
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4.5 mm – for garter st on collar.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 522: 3 pieces in all sizes

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
from 4.10 £ /50g
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour 4.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order

75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 3.80 £ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 3.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 3.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 43.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.8. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row K YO twisted (i.e. work in the back loop of st instead front) to avoid holes.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band (i.e. the first 4 sts seen from RS). 1 buttonhole = K tog second and third st from edge and make 1 YO.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S/M: 29, 37 and 45 cm
SIZE L/XL: 28, 36 and 44 cm
SIZE XXL: 27, 35 and 43 cm
SIZE XXXL: 27, 35 and 43 cm
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. work on 2 circular needle size 80 cm to make room for all sts at beg of piece.
Beg at the bottom of back piece and front piece, then cast off sts in each side, continue on back piece, then work shawl collar before sewing piece tog.

Cast on 429-489-529-549 sts on circular needle size 5 mm with 1 strand BabyAlpaca Silk and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work pattern as follows from RS: 4 band sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above, work last st in A.1, A.1 (= 20 sts) 21-24-26-27 times in width, 4 band sts in garter st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION Work the 4 band sts in garter st until finished measurements. When entire A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 261-297-321-333 sts on needle. Repeat A.X 1 more time vertically. Remember BUTTONHOLES - see explanation above. Then repeat the 2 last rows in A.X 11-10-9-9 more times vertically. Piece measures approx. 38-37-36-36 cm from cast-on edge.
Now work as follows: 4 band sts in garter st, A.2 (= 6 sts), A.3 (= 12 sts) 20-23-25-26 times in width, A.4 (= 7 sts), 4 band sts in garter st. When A.2-A.4 have been worked 1 time vertically, continue with A.5 inside band sts in each side. NOTE: On 7th row work last st before band sts K, and on 10th row inc 2-1-2-1 sts = 263-298-323-334 sts. When entire A.5 has been worked 1 time vertically, work 2 rows in stocking st, AT THE SAME TIME at beg of these 2 rows cast off 77-91-100-102 sts = 109-116-123-130 sts. Now continue as follows: 4 sts in garter st, A.6 (= 6 sts), A.7 (= 7 sts) until 8 sts remain, A.8 (= 4 sts), 4 sts in garter st. When piece measures 84-92-96-97 cm - adjust to finish after 6th or 12th row in A.6-A.8 - switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm and continue in garter st until finished measurements. Work the first 45-48-50-53 sts, insert 1 marker in next st, work 4-4-5-5 sts, insert a marker in next st, work 7-8-9-10 sts, insert a marker in next st, work 4-4-5-5 sts, insert a marker in next st, work the next 45-48-50-53 sts (= 4 markers). On next row from RS, inc 1 st before the 4 sts with markers – READ INCREASE TIP (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc alternately on right and left side of each marker every 4th row 4 more times (= 20 sts inc) = 129-136-143-150 sts. On next ridge do not work the outermost 10-14-16-18 sts in each side, then on the next 8 ridges work over 4 sts less on every row. Work 2 ridges over all sts, AT THE SAME TIME on first row inc 12-16-20-24 sts evenly = 141-152-163-174 sts. Loosely cast off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew seam A and B tog (see chart). Sew in outer loops of edge sts to avoid a chunky seam. Armhole = 20-22-23-24 cm Repeat in the other side. I.e. sew seam C and D tog the same way. Fasten off.

Diagram

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= 1 YO between 2 sts, on next row P YOs They should make holes.
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
= K 2 tog
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
= increase row - see explanation in pattern
= repeat the last 2 rows in diagram - see explanation in the pattern.
= knitting direction



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 166-43) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (43)

Patricia 09.03.2020 - 09:06:

Re bonjour, j'ai compris pas la peine de me répondre à ma question . Le fait de l'écrire je viens de comprendre. Il ne faut pas tricoter trop tard le soir on n'a pas les idées claires. Merci, bonne journée.

Patricia 09.03.2020 - 08:47:

Bonjour, je viens de finir A1, si j'ai bien compris je dois tricoter A2 A3 A4 puis de nouveau A2 A3 A4 et ainsi de suite sur tout le rang. Je si fais cela au bout d'un moment je suis décalée et les diminutions et les jetés se retrouvent au milieu des 12 mailles de A1. ça ne cadre plus . Je ne sais pas si j'arrive à me faire comprendre, je suis perdue. Merci de votre aide.

DROPS Design 09.03.2020 kl. 12:46:

Bonjour Patricia, vous allez répéter A.3 seulement, autrement dit, vous tricotez vos 4 m de bordure devant au point mousse, puis les 6 m de A.2, puis vous répétez les 12 mailles de A.3 jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 11 mailles, et vous terminez par les 7 m de A.4 et 4 m au point mousse. Sur l'envers, tricotez A.4, répétez A.3 et terminez par A.2 en lisant les diagrammes de gauche à droite. Bon tricot!

Henna Oron 21.01.2020 - 22:32:

Ik vind het vermoeiend om lange tijd naar het beeldscherm te kijken, zijn uw patronen ook als PDF te printen?

DROPS Design 26.01.2020 kl. 14:51:

Dag Henna,

Jazeker! Onder de materialenlijst staat een knop 'Patroon'. Klik hierop en klik dan op afdrukken, om een print te maken van het patroon.

RossWildflower 27.06.2019 - 19:30:

The first row instructions say: Cast on 429-489-529-549 sts on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with 1 strand BabyAlpaca Silk and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work pattern as follows from RS: 4 band sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above, work last st in A.1, A.1 (= 20 sts) 21-24-26-27 times in width, 4 band sts in garter st. Does this mean I should work the first stitch in ALL RS rows and last stitch in ALL WS rows as the last st in A.1? For how many rows?

DROPS Design 28.06.2019 kl. 06:27:

Dear Mrs RossWildflower, from RS you will always work the last stitch in A.1 after the front band sts and before repeating A.1 (read diagrams from the right towards the left). From WS work the front band sts, then repeat A.1 (read diagrams from the left towards the right) then work the last st in A.1 and finish with the front band sts. That way pattern will be symetrical on each side. Read more about diagrams here. Happy knitting!

Pauline 20.06.2019 - 20:52:

Hallo, ich würde allzu gerne dieses Modelll stricken, vertrage aber keine Mohair-Garne auf meiner Haut. Kann ich Kid-Silk einfach weglassen? Falls ja, reicht Baby Alpaca Silk 2-fädig für dieses Modell aus oder benötige ich das Garn dann 3-fädig? Welche Nadelstärke ist für Alpaca Silk 2-fädig oder 3-fädig am Besten?

DROPS Design 21.06.2019 kl. 06:56:

Liebe Pauline, Sie können 1 Faden Kid-Silk durch 1 Faden BabyAlpaca Silk ersetzen, so stricken Sie mit 2 Fäden BabyAlpaca Silk - beide gehören der Garngruppe A - benutzen Sie unseren Garnumrechner um die neue Menge zu kalkulieren (die Garnmenge in BabyAlpaca Silk für Ihre Größe kommt noch dazu). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Susanne 18.05.2019 - 14:36:

Hallo, ich verstehe nicht, was mit „A.X“ gemeint ist? „Wenn A.1 1 x in der Höhe gestr wurde, sind 261-297-321-333 M auf der Nadel. A.X noch 1 x in der Höhe arb. Die KNOPFLÖCHER nicht vergessen - siehe oben. Dann die 2 letzten R von A.X noch 11-10-9-9 x in der Höhe arb. Die Arb hat eine Gesamtlänge von ca. 38-37-36-36 cm ab dem Anschlagrand.“ Nochmal A1???? Danke und Gruß!

DROPS Design 20.05.2019 kl. 10:11:

Liebe Susanne, wenn A.1 1x in der Höhe gestrickt wird, stricken Sie die mit A.X markierten Reihen = die letzten 18 Reihen in A.1 - dann wiederholen Sie nur die 2 letzten Reihen (siehe Pfeil und schwarzer Punkt). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Valérie P. 26.08.2018 - 09:58:

Bonjour, Je viens de recommencer l'ouvrage car je ne sais pas si il faut commencer le A1 par la dernière maille du motif sur toute la hauteur du A1? ou simplement sur les 3 premiers rangs ? merci de votre réponse

DROPS Design 05.09.2018 kl. 14:37:

Bonjour Valérie, quand vous tricotez A.1, vous tricotez ainsi: 4 m point mousse, la dernière m de A.1, puis vous répétez A.1 en largeur et terminez par 4 m point mousse, et ce, jusqu'à ce que A.1 soit terminé en hauteur: le motif est ainsi symétrique de chaque côté. Bon tricot!

Valérie P. 10.08.2018 - 10:45:

Bonjour, Je voudrais savoir si vous avez une vidéo qui montre comment monter les 429 mailles avec 2 jeux d'aiguilles circulaires pour ce modèle. Merci

DROPS Design 10.08.2018 kl. 10:56:

Bonjour Valérie P., nous n'avons pas de vidéo de ce type, montez simplement la moitié des mailles sur une aiguille circulaire, et montez l'autre moité des mailles sur l'autre aiguille à suivre simplement. Bon tricot!

Marilyn 09.02.2018 - 03:15:

I am on row 10, having made the yarnovers in row 9. I don't know how I can purl the yarnovers without creating a new stitch. Row 11 does not show additional stitches. Please help!

DROPS Design 09.02.2018 kl. 07:06:

Hi Marilyn, All the yarn overs are accompanied by either K2 together or slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over. So the number of stitches stays the same and the pattern gives the lace effect. On the next row purl the yarn overs to leave a hole. Happy knitting!

Dolfin 19.12.2017 - 22:09:

Bonjour à la fin après les rangs en point mousse où on fait les rangs raccourcis, vous dites : Tricoter 2 côtes mousse sur toutes les mailles, Le travail étant en plein milieu puisqu'on a laissé des mailles en attente de chaque côté, dois t-on finir la ligne pour se retrouver au début du rang ou dois t-on arrêter le travail où on est, et reprendre au début du rang pour faire les rangs en entier. Merci

DROPS Design 20.12.2017 kl. 09:24:

Bonjour Mme Dolfin, pour éviter de couper le fil, on tricote d'abord les mailles jusqu'à la fin du rang, puis au rang retour, sur l'autre partie des mailles en attente (de l'autre côté du rang). Bon tricot!

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