DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 1.90 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.70£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 71-1

Sizes: XS/S - M - L/XL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 90-104-118 cm
Waist: 84-94-108 cm

Materials: DROPS ALASKA from Garnstudio
650-750-850 g. col. no. 51, olive heather.

6 DROPS wood buttons nr 514

DROPS 5 mm and 5.5 mm circular needles and straight needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 1.90 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.70£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Gauge: 16 sts x 20 rows on larger needles in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm

Garter st, when knitting flat: Knit all sts, all rows.

Pattern: See chart. The chart is showing every row in the pattern seen from the right side

Buttonhole: Make buttonholes along right buttonband. 1 buttonhole = bind off the 3rd and 4th sts from front edge and cast on 2 new sts on the next row. The top buttonhole will be made in the collar sts.
Make buttonholes when the piece measures:
Size XS/S: 1, 9, 16, 24, 31 and 38 cm.
Size M: 1, 9, 17, 25, 33 and 40 cm
Size L/XL: 2, 10, 18, 26, 34 and 41 cm

Knitting tips (for neck):
All decs are made from right side.
Right front (as when the garment as worn): Dec 1 st as follows: sl 1, K 1, psso.
Left front: Dec 1 st as follows: K 2 tog.

Seed Stitch (on an even number of sts):
Row 1: * K 1, P 1 *
Row 2: * P 1, K 1 *
Repeat Rows 1-2.
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BODY
Cast on 145-161-185 sts on smaller needles. Knit 5 rows seed st - make buttonholes on right buttonband - see instructions above.
Change to larger needles, placing a marker 39-43-49 sts in from each center front edge (to mark the sides). Establish pattern as follows (right side row): 5 edge sts in seed st, 33-37-43 sts in Pattern 1 - start at appropriate arrow on the chart, 1 st in seed st, 9-7-7 sts stockinette st, then knit Pattern 1 - start at right side of chart, not at arrow - over 58-68-80 sts, 1 st seed st, 9-7-7 sts stockinette st, 24-30-36 sts in Pattern 1 - start at right side of chart, not at arrow - then 5 edge sts in seed st.
Continue with pattern as established until the piece measures 10-7-7 cm . Inc 1 st at each side of side st (st in seed st) every 10-6-6 cm 2-4-4 times - knit the increased sts in stockinette st as you go along.
After all incs there are 153-177-201 sts on needles and the pattern now continues across all the sts. When the piece measures 30-32-33 cm knit Pattern 2 and then repeat Pattern 3 to finished measurements - start at appropriate arrow on the chart after the button band in seed st. When the piece measures 34-36-37 cm knit the next row as follows: 38-44-49 sts for the front, bind off 5-5-7 sts for armhole, 67-79-89 sts for the back, bind off 5-5-7 sts for armhole, 38-44-49 sts for the front. Knit each side separately.

Left front: = 38-44-49 sts.
Read the entire next section before knitting.
Armhole: bind off for armhole at the side every other row: 2 sts 0-2-4 times and 1 st 3-4-4 times.
Collar: At the same time when the piece measures 35-37-38 cm inc 2 sts inside 1 edge st at center front edge, for collar - knit the increased sts for collar in seed st as you go along. Then knit 2 rows seed st only over the outermost 7 sts (button band) - do not knit the remaining sts on the row. These short rows begin the collar shaping. Then inc 1 st inside 1 edge st every row 8 times, then every other row 6 times, then every 4 rows 2 times = 18 sts increased for collar - knit the increased sts in seed st as you go along.
Neck shaping: At the same time when the piece measures 39-41-42 cm dec for the neckline (while continuing to inc for collar) as follows: dec 1 st inside the seed sts 12 times every other row - see knitting tips. When the piece measures 56-58-60 cm bind off the 18-19-20 shoulder sts. Now only the seed sts remain on needles = 23 sts. Continue with seed st over these sts as follows: * 2 rows over all sts, 2 rows over only the outermost 16 sts *, repeat from * - * until the collar measures approx. 8 cm or length needed to reach center back. Put sts on a st holder.

Right front: = 38-44-49 sts. Knit the same as left front, reversing all shaping, and make buttonholes on button band (see instructions above).

Back: = 67-79-89 sts. Bind off for armholes at both sides as on front = 61-63-65 sts. When the piece measures 54-56-58 cm bind off the center 23-23-23 sts for the neck. On the next row dec 1 st at each neck edge. Bind off the remaining 18-19-20 shoulder sts when the piece measures 56-58-60 cm.

Sleeve: Cast on 38-42-46 sts on smaller needles. Knit seed st for 7 cm. Change to larger needles and Pattern 1 - place the pattern on the sleeve so that there is a single seed st column at the center. When the piece measures 8 cm inc 1 st at each side every 6 rows 14-13-12 times = 66-68-70 sts - knit the increased sts in the pattern as you go along. At the same time when the piece measures 46-44-43 cm knit Pattern 2, then repeat Pattern 3 to finished measurements. When sleeve measures 50-48-47 cm bind off for sleeve cap at each side every other row: 3 sts 2-2-1 time, 2 sts 2-2-3 times, 1 st 0-2-4 times, then 2 sts at each side until the piece measures 57-57-58 cm and then 3 sts each side 1 time. The piece measures approx. 58-58-59 cm , bind off the remaining sts.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Sew the collar together at center back invisibly. Sew the collar to back neck. Sew the sleeve seams and set into Body. Sew on buttons.

Diagram

symbols = knit from RS, purl from WS
symbols = purl from RS, knit from WS
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 71-1

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Comments / Questions (26)

country flag Sylvie wrote:

Bonjour, J'ai du mal à comprendre les augmentations du col, faut-il augmenter et comment sur le bord extérieur de la bordure entre les mailles du point de riz? Comment diminuer l'encolure et augmenter en même temps? ce n'est pas clair... Les 12 mailles de diminutions se font elles juste après la dernière maille du point de riz et ensuite je fais un surjet et je tricote ensuite le point fantaisie? Les rangs raccourcis sont-ils fait à la manière d'une maille enrobée?

05.02.2024 - 13:29

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sylvie, on doit d'abord augmenter 2 mailles à 1 maille du bord = tricotez par ex 2 fois la 2ème et la 3ème m à partir du bord (les 2 mailles avant la maille lisière pour le devant gauche), puis vous augmentez 1 seule maille à 1 maille du bord (avant la dernière maille sur l'endroit pour le devant gauche). En même temps vous diminuer pour former l'encolure: vous diminuez 1 maille avant le point de riz (les mailles de bordure devant augmentées des mailles du col), diminuez ainsi 12 fois 1 maille tous les rangs sur l'endroit. Bon tricot!

05.02.2024 - 15:53

country flag Helene Auclair wrote:

Bonjour , je suis a faire la manche grandeur XL, après avoir fait les diminutions de chaque côtés de la manche il est écrit ( puis 2 m jusqu'à ce que la manche mesure 57-57-58 cm, puis 1 fois 3 m. La manche mesure environ 58-58-59 cm de hauteur totale, rabattre les mailles restantes.) Es ce que sa veux dire que je diminue 2 m de chaque côté tout les 2 rangs jusqu'à 58cm ?

03.06.2023 - 02:34

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Auclair, tout à fait, vous rabattez 2 mailles de chaque côté tous les 2 rangs (autrement dit 2 mailles au début de chaque rang sur l'endroit et sur l'envers) jusqu'à ce que la manche mesure 58 cm, assurez-vous juste d'avoir bien rabattu le même nombre de fois 2 mailles de chaque côté avant de rabattre les 3 m de chaque côté. Bon tricot!

05.06.2023 - 09:50

country flag Katia Marelli wrote:

Can you translate this pattern into italian please? Thank you.

20.01.2023 - 00:30

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Katia, you'll find Italian translation for this pattern online within the nex few days. Happy crafting!

21.01.2023 - 22:20

country flag Emma wrote:

Ich habe eine Frage bezüglich der Ärmel bei den letzten Abnahmen wie häufig muss ich 2 Maschen abnehmen bevor ich einmal je 3 Maschen abnehmen muss. Wie viele Maschen werden beim letzten Schritt noch abgekettet, bei der Endlänge von 58-58-59 cm Liebe Grüße Emma

24.05.2021 - 11:35

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Emma, je nach Ihrer Maschenprobe in der Höhe wir diese Anzahl unterschiedlich sein, Wichig ist hier, daß Sie 2 Maschen beiseitig abketten bis die Ärmel 57 oder 58 cm misst. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

25.05.2021 - 08:25

country flag Helena wrote:

Hallo zusammen, muss ich bei den Ärmelabnahmen bei Größe XS/S die Abnahmen jeweils beidseitig machen? Ich habe Verständnisprobleme bei dem letzten Satz: "Nach 50-48-47 cm, bei jeder 2. R., gegen die Schulter abk.: 3 M. 2-2-1 Mal, 2 M. 2-2-3 Mal, 1 M. 0-2-4 Mal, weiter 2 M. auf beiden Seiten bis die Arb. 57-57-58 cm misst, danach 3 M. 1 Mal. Nach ca. 58-58-59 cm alle M. abk."

17.05.2021 - 22:39

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Helena, ja genau, die Maschen werden beidseitig abgekettet (= am Anfang jeder Reihe). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

18.05.2021 - 08:14

country flag Solveig Jensen wrote:

Krave: Skal jeg kun lave 1 pind vendestrik? Skal jeg tage ud 8 masker ud på pinden derefter? Skal jeg først strikke venstre side, når jeg har taget 18 masker ud til krave?

28.12.2020 - 08:17

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Solveig, ja du strikker kun 1 vendepind. Så tager du 1 maske ud (indenfor kantmasken) på de næste 8 pinde osv. God fornøjelse

07.01.2021 - 12:06

country flag Clo wrote:

Bjr pour le motif du diagramme, est ce qu’il faut tricoter le rang retour comme les mailles se présentent? Merci

11.10.2020 - 17:31

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Clo, tous les rangs du motifs sont représentés dans le diagramme, autrement dit, vous lisez le diagramme de droite à gauche sur l'endroit et de gauche à droite sur l'envers (plus d'infos ici. Bon tricot!

12.10.2020 - 08:28

country flag Paula wrote:

He realizado esta chaqueta ¡y ha sido todo un éxito! La he tejido ennla talla más grande y queda muy bien. El color que he elegido es rojo/granate. Y he puesto unos botones metálicos de color gris medio. Muchas gracias por crear un patrón tan bonito. Ha sido un placer tejer y que el resultado fuera tan bonito. Un saludo.

26.01.2020 - 11:15

country flag Mary wrote:

Hello, I was wondering if you could please help me with the sleeve part: how are you supposed to colocate the stitches so that there is one seed stitch line in the middle and the increases you make coincide with pattern 2 and 3? It is for an M size. Do you have to leave 5 stitches at each side of side stitch as in the body part? Could you please help me and tell me exactly how you do it? I would be very grateful.

15.07.2017 - 01:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mary, you can read herehere how to center a diagram, ie the 1st st in M.1 should be in the middle of the sleeve here. Happy knitting!

17.07.2017 - 08:19

country flag Betty wrote:

Je n'arrive pas à déchiffrer les explications concernant la réalisation de ce modèle en S. Si je respecte les indications pour la réalisation du Dos & Devant, je n'arrive pas à obtenir le nombre de mailles indiqué et les mailles au point de riz là où elles doivent tomber. Pourriez-vous me reformuler ces informations en langage clair ?

18.03.2016 - 20:36

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Betty, en taille S, tricotez les 145 m ainsi: 5 m point de riz, 33 m de M1 (= commencez à la flèche soit 11 m de M.1 puis les 12 m du diag + les 10 premières m du diagramme), 1 m au point de riz (= la maille avec le marqueur), 9 m jersey, puis M1 sur les 58 m suivantes (= répétez 4 x M.1 en commençant par la 1ère m et tricotez ensuite les 10 premières m du diagramme), 1 m point de riz (m avec le marqueur), 9 m jersey, 24 m de M1 (= 2 fois le diagramme) puis 5 m au point de riz. Bon tricot!

21.03.2016 - 09:08