DROPS / 157 / 27

Day After Day by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jumper with moss st and raglan, worked top down in "Cloud" or "Eskimo". Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no co-005
Yarn group E or C + C
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
DROPS CLOUD from Garnstudio
400-400-450-500-550-600 g colour no 04, medium grey
Or use:
DROPS ESKIMO from Garnstudio
600-650-700-800-850-950 g colour no 46, medium grey

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 or 60 and 80 cm) SIZE 10 mm - or size needed to get 9 sts x 15 rows in moss st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 or 60 cm) SIZE 9 mm – for edge in garter st.

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Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.
Comments (23)
72% Alpaca, 21% Polyamide, 7% Wool
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Because of the weight of the yarn all measurements must be done by holding the piece up otherwise the garment will be too long when worn.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in pattern seen from RS.

Row/Round 1: * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from *-*.
Row/Round 2: K over P and P over K. Repeat 2nd row/round.

Inc for raglan by working a YO on each side of A.1 in every raglan. On next round work YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front) to avoid holes. NOTE: Work the new sts in moss st.

Inc 1 st by making a YO.
On next round work YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front) to avoid holes. NOTE: Work the new sts in moss st.

Dec inside 1 edge st in garter st in each side.
Dec as follows after 1 edge st in garter st: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows before 1 edge st in garter st and 2 sts in moss st: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, 1 edge st in garter st.

Worked top down in the round on circular needle.
Cast on 44-48-52-56-60-64 sts on circular needle size 10 mm with Cloud or Eskimo. Work 1 round in stocking st AT THE SAME TIME inc 10 sts evenly = 54-58-62-66-70-74 sts. Now insert 4 markers in the piece, beg from raglan sts on the right side at the back: Insert a marker, A.1 (= 4 sts), K 1, A.1 (= sleeve), insert a marker, 18-20-22-24-26-28 sts MOSS ST – see explanation above (= front piece), insert a marker, A.1, K 1, A.1 (= sleeve), insert a marker, 18-20-22-24-26-28 sts in moss st (= back piece). Continue like this AT THE SAME TIME on next round beg inc for RAGLAN – see explanation above! NOTE! Inc differently on body and sleeves. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!

Inc every other round 2-3-4-5-6-8 times, every 4th round 1-1-1-2-2-3 times and every 6th round 4-4-4-3-3-2 times. There are 32-36-40-44-48-54 sts on front and back piece.

Inc every round 3-4-4-5-5-6 times, every other round 7-7-8-8-9-9 times and every 4th round 4 times in all sizes. There are 37-39-41-43-45-47 sts for each sleeve.

When all inc are done there are 138-150-162-174-186-202 sts on round. Piece measures 27-29-31-33-35-37 cm - READ MEASURING TIP. Now slip the first 37-39-41-43-45-47 sts on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 7 new sts under sleeve, work the next 32-36-40-44-48-54 sts (= front piece), slip the next 37-39-41-43-45-47 sts on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 7 new sts under sleeve, work the remaining 32-36-40-44-48-54 sts (= back piece).

There are now 78-86-94-102-110-122 sts for body. Continue with moss st over the next 3 sts, P 1 (= the side), insert a marker in this st, moss st over the next 38-42-46-50-54-60 sts, P 1 (= the side), insert a marker in this st, moss st over the remaining 38-42-46-50-54-60 sts on round. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. When piece measures 7 cm, inc 1 st on each side of P sts with markers in each side - READ INCREASE TIP. Repeat inc when piece measures 22-23-24-25-26-27 cm = 86-94-102-110-118-130 sts. Continue to work until piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm in total - remember MEASURING TIP. Cast off with K over K and P over P.

The sleeve is worked back and forth on circular needle. Slip the 37-39-41-43-45-47 sts from stitch holder back on circular needle size 10 mm. Now continue moss st over all sts. Cast on 4 sts at the end of the next 2 rows = 45-47-49-51-53-55 sts. NOTE: Work the new sts in moss st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. On next row dec 1 st in each side of piece - Read DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec on every row from RS 4 more times = 35-37-39-41-43-45 sts. Then dec every 4½-3½-3½-3-3-3 cm 6-7-7-8-9-9 times = 23-23-25-25-25-27 sts. When sleeve measures 39-38-38-38-38-37 cm from the new sts under sleeves - remember MEASURING TIP - switch to circular needle size 9 mm. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Cast off.
Work the other sleeve the same way.

Sew underarm seams inside 1 edge st in garter st. Sew tog the openings under the sleeves. Cut the yarn and fasten.

Pick up 44-48-52-56-60-64 sts (= 1 st in every st in cast-on edge) around the neck on needle size 9 mm with Cloud or Eskimo. Work 1 ridge AT THE SAME TIME adjust no of sts to 48-50-50-52-52-54. Work 2 ridges. Cast off.

This pattern has been corrected. .

under RAGLAN SLEEVE at the end (= back piece, not = front piece:

....work the remaining 32-36-40-44-48-54 sts (= back piece).

Updated online: 02.10.2014


= K
= P

Comments (23)

Leave your comment!

Anne Olsen 20.03.2017 - 21:18:

Jeg forstår ikke hvor ofte jeg skal øke. Hver 2. omg. 4 ganger (jeg skal strikke L), men bare 1. gang den 4. omg. og igjen 4. ganger på hver 6. omg. Skal jeg da etter hver bare øke hver 2. og 6. når jeg har økt den 4. omg. én gang?

DROPS Design 21.03.2017 kl. 14:49:

Hej Anne. Först öker du i hver 2. omg 4 ganger (paa bolen) og först naar du er faerdig gaar du videre med at öke i hver 4. omg (1 gang) og til sidst i hver 6. omg (4 ganger). Husk at samtidig öker du ogsaa paa ermerne de antal gange som din str siger.

Marianne 21.10.2016 - 13:27:

Mijn vraag lijkt niet geplaatst te zijn, ik probeer het nog eens. In het gedeelte " lijf" moet een markeerder geplaatst worden in de averechte steek. Moet deze steek over het hele deel vanaf de oksel tot de onderkant averecht gebreid blijven worden? Zodat een soort averechte "naad" ontstaat? Of moet deze, nadat de markeerder is geplaatst, in het gerstekorrelpatroon worden meegebreid?

DROPS Design 21.10.2016 kl. 15:05:

Hoi. Jawel :) Zie mijn antwoord hieronder.

Marianne 21.10.2016 - 12:51:

Ik begrijp dat ik een markeerder moet plaatsen bovenaan de zijkant, in de oksel, in een averechte steek. Maar moet ik die averechte steek blijven breien in de volgende toeren? Ofwel: ontstaat er een soort zijnaad met een averechte steek? Of wordt het in de volgende toeren gewoon meegenomen in de gerstekorrel?

DROPS Design 21.10.2016 kl. 15:04:

Hoi Marianne. Je breit deze st steeds av - je krijgt dan een "lijn" in de zijkanten. Je breit de st NIET in gerstekorrel

Shilpa 23.06.2016 - 00:22:

Thanks for your speedy reply! Just to clarify, when you say 'at the same time', doesn't that mean some of the increase rounds will have 12 increases? Or do the sleeve increases start after the all the body increases are complete? And, if there are 8/increase row as you've mentioned, doesn't that mean the stitch count for the sleeves is too low? Thanks!

DROPS Design 23.06.2016 kl. 08:55:

Dear Shilpa, all raglan inc are done when working yoke, but you will not inc on every inc round on all pieces, ie in larger size, you will inc on first round: 2 sts on each sleeve only (= every round = 4 sts inc), then on next round, you will inc 2 sts in all pieces (= every other round in body and every round in sleeve = 8 sts inc), repeat these 2 rounds a total of 3 times = you have inc 6 times every round on sleeves and 3 times every other round on body. ie you will inc sometimes only on sleeve (= + 4 sts inc on round), only on body (= + 4 sts inc on round) and on each pieces (= +8 sts inc on round). Happy knitting!

Shilpa 22.06.2016 - 14:52:

Hello! I'm knitting the XXXL with 10ply on 8.0mm and am confused by the increases. Increases are by 4 stitches only (NOT 8), the difference is where these increases go, correct? This creates 47st per sleeve (38 from sleeve increases and 9 from 2xA1 with k in between), but then the A1 section creates a straight stripe for a long portion, unlike the picture. I've been increasing 8/round, which seems to create more shoulder space, and matches the picture, but doesn't add up. Help, please!

DROPS Design 22.06.2016 kl. 15:00:

Dear Shilpa, you inc for raglan either 4 sts (when inc only in sleeve or only in body) or 8 sts (when inc both in body and sleeve), ie in larger size, you will inc 8 times every other round, 3 times every 4th round and 2 times every 6th round, and at the same time, you inc for sleeve 6 times every round, 9 times every other round and 4 times every round. Increase are made before A.1 (when inc at beg of piece) or after A.1 (when inc at the end of piece). Happy knitting!

Elisabeth 11.05.2016 - 15:55:

Merci infiniment de votre patience et de vos conseils. Cette fois, j'ai compris ! Bonne journée.

Elisabeth 11.05.2016 - 14:12:

Bonjour, Je tricote la taille XXL. Les manches se situeront autour de la maille endroit entre les deux A1, non ? Je me rapproche du cas désespéré :-)

DROPS Design 11.05.2016 kl. 15:49:

Bonjour Elisabeth, la m end tricotée au tout 1er tour, entre chaque A.1 correspond effectivement aux manches. En taille XXL, tricotez 5 fois: 1 tour avec 8 augm = 1 avant + 1 après chaque A.1 (= augm manches, dos et devant) et 1 tour avec 4 augm = 1 m après le A.1 de chaque manche + 1 m avant le A.1 de chaque manche) - Au 6ème tour, pas d'augm. Au 7ème tour, augmentez 8 m (= manches, dos et devant) et ainsi de suite. Bon tricot!

Elisabeth 11.05.2016 - 10:27:

Bonjour, Une toute dernière question, svp : au premier tour, je commence par une augmentation avant le premier marqueur, si j'ai bien compris ? Merci encore de votre patience. Bien cordialement.

DROPS Design 11.05.2016 kl. 11:51:

Bonjour Elisabeth, les augmentations se font après le marqueur (le marqueur doit être et rester après A.1) et après le marqueur (le marqueur doit être et rester avant A.1) quand on augmente 2 m au total dans chaque pièce. Ainsi, vous augmentez 2 m entre chaque motif de A.1 (soit pour les manches, soit pour le dos/le devant) - notez bien les augmentations à faire pour votre taille, vous n'augmenterez pas pour chaque pièce à chaque fois. Indiquez moi la taille que vous réalisez pour plus de détail. Bon tricot!

Elisabeth 10.05.2016 - 13:44:

Bonjour, Merci pour votre réponse, mais je n'ai toujours pas compris (pardon d'être particulièrement obtuse aujourd'hui). Pouvez-vs me détailler la marche à suivre pour le premier rang svp ? Merci d'avance.

DROPS Design 10.05.2016 kl. 16:09:

Bonjour Elisabeth, les augmentations sont différentes pour toutes les tailles mais les premières sont identiques: au 1er tour, augmentez 1 m avant chaque A.1 et 1 m après chaque A.1 = 8 augmentations, 2 pour chaque manche et 2 pour le dos + 2 pour le devant. Au tour suivant, augmentez seulement 2 m dans chaque manche: 1 m après le A.1 avant la manche + 1 m avant le A.1 après la manche. Continuez ainsi en suivant bien les indications de votre taille. Il peut être utile de noter les augm. pour s'y retrouver. Bon tricot!

Elisabeth 09.05.2016 - 18:56:

Bonjour, pouvez-vous svp m'expliquer où placer les augmentations. Il est écrit "de chaque côté de A1 à chaque raglan", mais je ne vois pas où cela les place. Il y a un marqueur au tout début du tour avant la première maille qui est l'une des 4 m de A1, puis 1m end, puis 4 m de A1, puis un marqueur puis les m du devant, etc. Où et combien de mailles à ajouter ? Je suis bêtement bloquée au tout début du pull, c'est rageant :-)) Merci d'avance pour vos conseils.

DROPS Design 10.05.2016 kl. 09:13:

Bonjour Elisabeth, pour le raglan, on va augmenter à un rythme différent pour les manches et pour le dos et le devant, chaque augmentation se fait dans la partie qui la concerne, soit pour les manches, augmentez après le A.1 avant la manche et avant le A.1 après la manche. Pour le dos/le devant, augmentez après le A.1 au début du dos/devant et avant le A.1 à la fin du dos/devant. On va augmenter 8 m au total quand on augmente à chaque A.1, ou 4 m quand on n'augmente que sur les manches. Bon tricot!

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