DROPS / 150 / 18

September Socks by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS socks with Nordic pattern in ”Lima”. Size 35 to 43

  • September Socks / DROPS 150-18 - Knitted DROPS socks with Nordic pattern in ”Lima”. Size 35 to 43
DROPS design: Pattern no li-030
Yarn group B
Size: 35/37 - 38/40 - 41/43
Foot length: 22 - 24 - 27 cm
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio
100-150-150 g colour no 9015, grey
50-50-50 g colour no 0100, off white
50-50-50 g colour no 4088, heather
50-50-50 g colour no 5820, ruby red

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 mm - or size needed to get 22 sts x 30 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Lima uni colour DROPS Lima uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Lima mix DROPS Lima mix 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
See diagram A.1. Work entire pattern in stocking st.

Row 1 (= RS): K until 7-7-8 sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K 1, psso, turn piece.
Row 2 (= WS): P until 7-7-8 sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P 1, psso, turn piece.
Row 3 (= RS): K until 6-6-7 sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K 1, psso, turn piece.
Row 4 (= WS): P until 6-6-7 sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P 1, psso, turn piece.
Continue dec like this with 1 less st before each dec until there are 12-14-14 sts on needle.

Work until 2 sts remain before marker, K 2 tog and then K 2 twisted tog.

Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 64-64-68 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with ruby red. Work rib = K 2/P 2 for 4 cm. Switch to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 4-4-8 sts evenly = 60-60-60 sts. Then continue pattern according to diagram A.1. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
AT THE SAME TIME on round marked with arrow A in diagram, dec 3 sts evenly = 57 sts. Continue pattern.
On round marked with arrow B in diagram, dec 1 st = 56 sts.
When A.1 has been worked, piece measures approx. 22 cm. Continue in the round in stocking st with grey – AT THE SAME TIME on 1st round dec 8-4-0 sts evenly = 48-52-56 sts.
When piece measures 23-24-25 cm, keep the first 12-13-14 sts on needle for heel, slip the next 24-26-28 sts on 1 stitch holder (= mid upper foot - NOTE: Work sts before slipping them on stitch holder) and keep the last 12-13-14 sts on needle for heel. Continue in stocking st back and forth over the 24-26-28 heel sts for 5-5½-6 cm. Insert 1 marker in mid of row, MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE.
Then work HEEL DECREASE - see explanation above. After heel dec, pick up 11-12-13 sts along each side of heel and slip the 24-26-28 sts from stitch holder back on needle = 58-64-68 sts. Insert 1 marker on each side of the 24-26-28 sts on top of foot. Continue in stocking st in the round while AT THE SAME TIME dec in each side as follows: K the 2 last sts BEFORE marker on top of foot tog and K the first 2 sts AFTER marker on top of foot twisted tog. Repeat dec every other round 6-7-7 more times (= 7-8-8 times in total) = 44-48-52 sts. Remove the 2 markers.
When piece measures 18-20-22 cm from marker on heel (= approx. 4-4-5 cm remain), insert 1 marker in each side so that there are 22-24-26 sts both on upper foot and under foot. Continue working with grey while AT THE SAME TIME dec for toes on each side of both markers - SEE DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec every other round 3-3-4 more times (= 4-4-5 times in total) and then every round 5-6-6 times = 8 sts remain on needle. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten.


symbols = ruby red
symbols = heather
symbols = off white
symbols = grey

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 150-18) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (30)

country flag Guðrún Sigríður Þorsteinsdóttir 28.01.2021 - 16:41:

Mynstrið gengur ekki upp í 13. umferð, þar er mynstrið 8 lykkjur og 8 gengur ekki upp í 60. Ég er ekki komin lengra en ég vona að ekki séu fleiri villur.

country flag Le Meute 22.09.2020 - 20:23:

Bonsoir, je réalise le Modèle chaussettes DROPS 150-18 soucis pour le talon, l'explication n'est pas très claire pour moi concernant les diminutions. Je vois diminutions talon puis diminutions? est-ce qu'il faut continuer à diminuer après les 14m restantes (taille 41/43). Les diminutions doivent elles se faire comme sur la vidéo? Merci

user icon DROPS Design 23.09.2020 kl. 08:18:

Bonjour Mme Le Meute, après avoir tricoté les 4 rangs des DIMINUTIONS TALON, continuez à diminuer de chaque côté, à la fin de chaque rang jusqu'à ce qu'il vous reste 14 m sur l'aiguille - comme le montre la vidéo, quand il vous reste ces 14 m, vous continuez le pied en relevant les mailles de chaque côté du talon (cf cette vidéo à partir de 05:43 enviorn); Bon tricot!

country flag Carlota 03.03.2020 - 02:22:

Bonjour, Est-il possible de tricoter ces chaussettes avec des aiguilles circulaires ? Merci par avance C

user icon DROPS Design 03.03.2020 kl. 10:47:

Bonjour Carlotta, tout à fait, comme tout petit ouvrage d'une circonférence inférieure à celui d'une circulaire de 40 cm, vous pouvez tricoter sur une circulaire de 80 cm en utilisant la technique dite du magic loop. Bon tricot!

country flag MEUNIER Léone 31.10.2019 - 15:10:

Bonjour, je voudrais tricoter ces chaussettes avec la laine LIMA mais sans le jacquard. Les côtes sont indiquées sur 4 cm mais ensuite les diminutions ou augmentations sont données en fonction du schéma de jacquard. Pourriez-vous m'indiquer à quelle hauteur en cm ou à combien de rangs je dois faire ces changements.

user icon DROPS Design 04.11.2019 kl. 14:14:

Bonjour Mme Meunier, pour les tricoter en uni, suivez les indications des explications, et diminuez aux rangs indiqués dans le diagramme (comptez les rangs jusqu'aux flèches). Bon tricot!

country flag Gitte 31.05.2019 - 02:21:

Et HELT UMULIGT mønster at både forstå - og følge. Ærgerligt

country flag Helen 08.01.2018 - 19:05:

Hej... om det nu har visat sig att beskrivningen är felaktig varför kan ni inte göra om den då så att det stämmer utan att flera måste jävlas med detta... Jag har väldigt svårt att tänka och göra om ett mönster så jag blev besviken när det inte fungerade....

country flag Corine 31.10.2017 - 05:58:

Hi i think there is a mistake in the diagram or in the picture in the last part where you do the small white dots in the grey sock. The diagram shows seven (4before and 3after) grey st between every white dot whereas the photo shows only three.

user icon DROPS Design 31.10.2017 kl. 09:50:

Dear Corine, thanks for your feedback, it seems you are right, diagram will be edited. Happy knitting!

country flag Randi 13.03.2016 - 09:47:

Hei, ser at dere ikke ønsker å rette opp feilen på rad 15-17 men hadde det ikke vært en ide å skrive det i oppskriften at det ikke stemmer. Det hadde iallefall spart meg for mye hodebry!

country flag Geli 05.01.2016 - 09:25:

Hallo zusammen, in der Anleitung ist ein Fehler. Bei Größe 38/40 nimmt man nach der Fersenabnahme für den Spickel nicht insgesamt 8 x 2 Maschen ab, sondern nur 4 x, um auf 48 Maschen insgesamt zu kommen. Bei 8 Abnahmen blieben nur noch 32 Maschen übrig. Ansonsten ist das eine tolle Anleitung, die Socken sind wunderbar weich und warm. Ich stricke sie ohne Muster einfach unifarben und brauche für Größe 38/40 somit nur 150g insgesamt. Vielen Dank für die tolle Anleitung!

country flag Veronica Nilsen Nermo 23.10.2015 - 17:38:

Hei! Er veldig skuffet over at dere ikke har endret oppskriften, enda dere har kjent til feilen på rad 14 og videre, i over to år!!!! Å bruke tid på å telle og rekke opp, telle og rekke opp, bruke tid på å regne, søke opp oppskriften på nytt, være frustrert og nå til slutt irritert, det er ikke noe jeg gidder, og tror det er flere enn meg som ikke gidder det. Hvis dere ikke er interessert i og rette på oppskriften, skriv i alle fall en merknad!

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