Blue Leaf by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS over-sized jacket with lace pattern and shawl collar in ”Vivaldi”. Size: S - XXXL

  • Blue Leaf / DROPS 149-31 - Knitted DROPS over-sized jacket with lace pattern and shawl collar in ”Vivaldi”. Size: S - XXXL
DROPS design: Pattern no oo-104
Yarn group C
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Size: S/M - L/XL - XXL/XXXL
Materials:
DROPS VIVALDI from Garnstudio
150-200-250 g colour no 30, faded purple

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 and 80 cm) SIZE 8 mm - or size needed to get 12 sts x 17 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Vivaldi DROPS Vivaldi
56% Mohair, 30% Polyamide, 14% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1, A.2, A.3 and A.4, diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.
The diagrams is divided into 3 parts. Since it dec and inc in different parts will the diagrams see inadequate out. But the number of sts at the end of each row will still be the same.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec inside 1 edge st in garter st. All dec are done from RS!
Dec before 1 edge st as follows: K 2 tog.
Dec after 1 edge st as follows: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

KNITTING TIP 1:
To make a nice finish on repetition, continue with diagram A.3 instead of A.2 (right front piece) and A.1 instead of A.2 (left front piece).

SHORT ROWS:
To make a better shape on the collar work short rows in garter st as follows: * 2 rows back and forth over 15 sts, 2 rows over all sts *, repeat from *-* 1 more time.

KNITTING TIP 2:
When dec sts on each side of sleeve and lace pattern A.4 continues, stripes in lace pattern will disappear in sleeve seam. Work sts that do not fit in stocking st.
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JACKET:

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
LOOSELY cast on 59-64-70 sts (incl 3-3-3 band sts towards mid front and 1 edge st in garter st) on circular needle size 8 mm with Vivaldi. Work 2 RIDGES in garter st - see explanation above. Then work as follows from RS: 3-3-3 band sts in garter st, PATTERN according to diagram A.1 (= 12 sts), A.2 over the next 26-26-39 sts, A.3 (= 15 sts), 2-7-0 sts in garter st, 1-1-1 edge st in garter st. Continue like this with pattern and garter st in the side and on band. When piece measures 50-54-59 cm, cast off 2-7-13 sts in the side for armhole on next row from WS = 57-57-57 sts on row. Then continue with pattern, 3 band sts in garter st and 1-1-1 edge st in garter st in the side. NOTE! In size XXL/XXXL continue with 1 edge st in garter st and A.3 instead of A.2 over the outermost repetition with A.2 (repetition at the edge towards armhole) as follows: 3 band sts in garter st, A.1 (= 12 sts), A.2 over the next 26 sts, A.3 (= 15 sts), 1 edge st in garter st.
When piece measures 70-76-83 cm, cast off the outermost 27 sts from WS = 30 sts remain on needle for collar. Then work as follows from WS: A.3, A.1, 3 band sts in garter st - Read KNITTING TIP 1! When collar measures approx. 10 cm, work SHORT ROWS, beg from RS - see explanation above. Loosely cast off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
LOOSELY cast on 59-64-70 sts (incl 3-3-3 band sts towards mid front and 1 edge st in garter st) on circular needle size 8 mm with Vivaldi. Work 2 RIDGES in garter st - see explanation above. Then work as follows from RS: 1-1-1 edge st in garter st, 2-7-0 sts in garter st, A.1 (= 12 sts), A.2 over the next 26-26-39 sts, A.3 (= 15 sts), 3 band sts in garter st. Continue like this with pattern and garter st in the side and on band. When piece measures 50-54-59 cm, cast off 2-7-13 sts in the side for armhole from RS = 57-57-57 sts on row. Then continue with pattern, 3 band sts in garter st and 1-1-1 edge st in garter st in the side. NOTE! In size XXL/XXXL continue with 1 edge st in garter st and A.1 instead of A.2 over the outermost repetition with A.2 (repetition at the edge towards armhole) as follows: 1-1-1 edge st in garter st, A.1 (= 12 sts), A.2 over the next 26 sts, A.3 (= 15 sts), 3 band sts in garter st.
When piece measures 70-76-83 cm, cast off the outermost 27 sts from RS = 30 sts remain on needle for collar. Then work as follows from RS: A.1, A.3, 3 band sts in garter st - Read KNITTING TIP 1! When collar measures approx. 10 cm, work SHORT ROWS, beg from WS - see explanation above. Loosely cast off.

BACK PIECE:
LOOSELY cast on 85-95-107 sts incl 1-1-1 edge st in each side on circular needle size 8 mm with Vivaldi. Work 2 ridges in garter st - see explanation above. Then work as follows from RS: 1-1-1 edge st, 2-7-0 sts in garter st, A.1 (= 12 sts), A.2 over the next 52-52-78 sts, A.3 (= 15 sts), 2-7-0 sts in garter st, 1-1-1 edge st. Continue with pattern like this with edge st in garter st in each side. When piece measures 50-54-59 cm, cast off 2-7-13 sts at beg of the next 2 rows = 81-81-81 sts on row. Continue with pattern the same way and with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. NOTE! In size XXL/XXXL continue with 1 edge st in garter st and A.1 instead of A.2 (right side) and A.3 instead of A.2 (left side) repetition at the edge towards armholes.
When piece measures 68-74-81 cm, cast off the middle 27-27-27 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Loosely cast off when piece measures 70-76-83 cm.
Sew shoulder seams from front pieces and back pieces nicely tog in outermost st.

SLEEVE:
The sleeve is worked back and forth on circular needle.
Beg at the bottom of armhole and pick up 68-74-82 sts inside 1 edge st in garter st around the armhole = approx. 1 st in every row. P 1 row, AT THE SAME TIME dec 18-20-22 sts evenly (P tog approx. every 3rd and 4th st) = 50-54-60 sts incl 1 edge st in garter st in each side. Then work as follows from RS: 1 edge st in garter st, 5-7-7 sts in stocking st, * A.4, 6-6-8 sts in stocking st *, repeat from *-* 2 more times (= 3 times in total), A.4, 5-7-7 sts in stocking st, 1 edge st in garter st. Continue back and forth the same way with pattern, stocking st and 1 edge st in garter st in each side. When sleeve measures 3 cm, dec 1 st on each side of piece by K 2 tog. Continue as before AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st in each side every 3-3½-2½ cm 9-9-12 more times (= 10-10-13 times in total) – Read KNITTING TIP 2! When dec are done, 30-34-34 sts remain on row incl 1 edge st in garter st in each side. Work until sleeve measures 39-41-43 cm. Then work 2 ridges in garter st and LOOSELY cast off with 2 strands.
Knit another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew sleeve seams. Sew side seams tog in front loop of outermost st. Sew collar tog mid back. Sew collar evenly and neatly tog to neck edge.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
diagram
diagram
signature-image signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 149-31) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (34)

country flag Hege Myklebust wrote:

På toppen av framstykket - når ein går over til kragen, står det "Videre fortsettes det slik fra vrangen: A3, A1..." Betyr det at ein skal strikka mønsteret frå vranga, slik at retta blir vranga, på ein måte? Skal kragen brettast ut? På biletet ser ein ikkje kragen pga håret til modellen...

29.10.2014 - 17:12

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Hege, nej du fortsætter bare på samme måde som du har gjort hele tiden, samtidig som du strikker de forkortede pinde. God fornøjelse!

30.10.2014 kl. 09:23

country flag Drops Design NL wrote:

Goed om te horen en veel breiplezier!

01.08.2014 - 14:06

country flag Corinne wrote:

Bedankt! Ik heb proeflapje gemaakt en alles klopte, maar ik was gewoon bang dat ik veel te los aan het breien was!:-)

01.08.2014 - 10:19

country flag Corinne wrote:

Het is prachtig garen, en ik ben er druk mee bezig, maar door de dikke pennen (op de wol staat nr 4) worden de steken wel erg grof. Klopt dit?

31.07.2014 - 15:36

DROPS Design answered:

Hebt u een proeflapje gebreid en uw stekenverhouding gecontroleerd met het patroon? Door de keuze van een grote maat naald, krijgt u een open effect, dit is geen fout, maar een keuze van de designafdeling voor dit patroon.

01.08.2014 kl. 08:49

country flag Corinne wrote:

Het is prachtig garen, en ik ben er druk mee bezig, maar door de dikke pennen (op de wol staat nr 4) worden de steken wel erg grof. Klopt dit?

31.07.2014 - 15:36

country flag Bente wrote:

Heisann! Kan vi ta det på norsk? Mønster A1, det står 12 masker men jeg ender opp med 13 masker. Hvordan løser jeg dett...?

24.04.2014 - 21:08

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Bente. Naar du strikker videre (A.3) tages der ind igen. Saa kommer det totale antal masker til at stemme. God fornöjelse videre.

25.04.2014 kl. 12:35

country flag Bente wrote:

Heisann! Kan vi ta det på norsk? Mønster A1, det står 12 masker men jeg ender opp med 13 masker. Hvordan løser jeg dett...?

24.04.2014 - 21:07

country flag Lizjune wrote:

Sorry to be a pest, but Chart A1 says it has 12 stitches. What you listed in your response equals 13. What is supposed to happen with the extra stitch- or is this a typo and the total number of stitches (listed at the bottom of the chart) is supposed to be 13?

28.02.2014 - 03:14

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lizjune, you are correct, sorry, the diagram will be checked and I will come back to you asap. Thank you.

28.02.2014 kl. 10:51

country flag Lizjune wrote:

Reading your chart for this pattern, the very first row of A.1: per the chart row 1 should have 12 stitches but in counting the stitches shown, I end up with 13. The problem seems to be with the yo markings--how to read these? The videos do not work for me. Please help!

27.02.2014 - 07:07

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lizjune, you should keep same number of sts all the way, each YO is compensated by 1 dec, row 1 A.1 is worked as follows:K2 tog, K2, YO, K1, YO, slip 1 as if to K, K1, psso, YO, K5. Happy knitting!

27.02.2014 kl. 12:14

country flag Lizjune wrote:

I am not able to see the videos so please help! I "translated" the charts to words, and began to knit the sweater per the instructions but there seems to be a problem with my understanding of YO, which is throwing off the pattern. Where can I find a very clear definition of how you accomplish YO? I was always told that if knitting you put the yarn over the needle (as if to purl) to create the YO. Clearly this isn't working. What does your YO mean?

27.02.2014 - 06:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lizjune, a YO is a wrap around needle, you can check the video below, click on title to see it on vimeo.com. Happy knitting!

27.02.2014 kl. 12:12

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