Tutti frutti by DROPS Design

Crochet toy basket of fruits and vegetables in DROPS Paris.

DROPS design: Pattern no W-020-bn
Yarn group C
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Materials: DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
200 g colour no 26, dark beige
50 g colour no 13, orange
50 g colour no 45, dusty orange
50 g colour no 14, strong yellow
50 g colour no 06, shocking pink
50 g colour no 12, red
100 g colour no 39, pistachio
50 g colour no 11, opal green
50 g colour no 44, brown
50 g colour no 43 green
50 g colour no 17, off white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 mm - or size needed to get 18 dc = width 10 cm.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5 mm - for handles on basket.
ACCESSORIES: Some cotton wool for filling

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100% Cotton
from 0.95 £ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 1.05 £ /50g
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DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 0.95 £ /50g
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.30£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
MAGIC CIRCLE:
When piece is worked in the round, start with this technique to avoid holes in the middle (instead of ch-ring): Hold the yarn end and wind the yarn one time around the index finger to make a loop. Hold the loop with left thumb and middle finger, place the thread over left index finger. Insert hook through the loop, make a YO and pull thread through loop, work 1 ch, then work dc around the loop. When the desired no of dc have been reached, pull the yarn end to tighten the loop. Fasten the yarn end at the back. Continue to work in the round in a circle.

WORK IN THE ROUND IN A CIRCLE:
After last dc on the round, continue to next round with 1 dc in next dc (= first dc from previous round). NOTE: Insert a marker at the beg of round between last dc and first dc on the round, move the marker upwards when working.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 dc by working 2 dc in next dc.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 dc by working 2 dc tog as follows: * Insert hook in next dc, get thread *, repeat from *-* one more time, make a YO and pull thread through all 3 sts on hook.

COLOUR CHANGE:
To get a nice colour change work last dc on round as follows: Insert hook in last dc, get thread, make a YO with the new colour and pull it through all sts on hook. Continue on to next round with the new colour.
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CARROT:
Work in the round in a circle. Work 2 ch with dusty orange on hook size 4.5 mm.
ROUND 1: Work 3 dc in 1st ch - READ WORK IN THE ROUND IN A CIRCLE.
ROUND 2: Inc 1 dc in every dc - READ INCREASE TIP = 6 dc.
ROUND 3: * 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, inc 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* one more time = 8 dc.
ROUND 4 (and then on every even numbered round): Work 1 dc in every dc.
ROUND 5: * 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, inc 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* one more time = 10 dc.
ROUND 7: * 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, inc 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* one more time = 12 dc.
ROUND 9: * 1 dc in each of the next 5 dc, inc 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* one more time = 14 dc.
ROUND 11: * 1 dc in each of the next 6 dc, inc 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* one more time = 16 dc.
Then work 1 dc in every dc in the round in a circle for 12 more rounds. Then dec as follows:
ROUND 1: * 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, dec 1 dc - READ DECREASE TIP *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 12 dc.
ROUND 2: * 1 dc in next dc, dec 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 8 dc.
ROUND 3: Work all dc tog 2 by 2 = 4 dc, cut the thread. Fill the carrot with some cotton wool, sew the last 4 dc tog with thread end.

LEAF:
Crochet 3 ch with opal green and form a ring with 1 sl st in 1st ch. Work as follows in the ring: * 1 dc, 9 ch, 1 dc, 11 ch *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times, finish with 1 sl st in 1st dc = 8 ch-loops, cut and fasten the thread. Sew leaves at the top of carrot.

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APPLE:
Work in the round in a circle. Start by making a MAGIC CIRCLE - read explanation above - at the bottom of apple with red on hook size 4.5 mm.
ROUND 1: Work 7 dc in the magic circle - READ WORK IN THE ROUND IN A CIRCLE.
ROUND 2: Inc 1 dc in every dc = 14 dc.
ROUND 3: * 1 dc in next dc, inc 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 21 dc.
ROUND 4: * 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, inc 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 28 dc.
ROUND 5: * 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, inc 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 35 dc.
ROUND 6: Work 1 dc in every dc.
ROUND 7: * 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, inc 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 42 dc.
ROUND 8-16: Work 1 dc in every dc.
ROUND 17: * 1 dc in each of the next 5 dc, dec 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 36 dc.
ROUND 18: * 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, dec 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 30 dc.
ROUND 19: * 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, dec 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 24 dc.
ROUND 20: * 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, dec 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 18 dc.
ROUND 21: * 1 dc in next dc, dec 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 12 dc.
ROUND 22: Work all dc tog 2 by 2 = 6 dc, cut the thread. Fill the apple with some cotton wool, sew the last 6 dc tog with thread end. NOTE: Pull the thread end through the top and bottom of apple to make a dent in each side.

STEM:
Worked in the round in a circle. Work 3 ch with brown on hook size 4.5 mm, then 2 dc in 1st and 2nd ch worked = 4 dc. Continue in the round and work a total of 16 dc with 1 dc in every dc, cut and fasten the thread.

LEAF:
Worked back and forth. Crochet a row with 8 ch and pistachio on hook size 4.5 mm, then crochet along the ch-row as follows: 1 sl st in 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc in each of the next 2 ch, 1 htr in next ch, 1 tr in each of the next 2 ch, 2 dc in the last ch. Then work on the other side of ch-row as follows: 1 tr in each of the next 2 ch, 1 htr in next ch, 1 dc in each of the next 2 ch, 1 sl st in the last ch, cut and fasten the thread.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew stem and leaf at the top of apple.

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PEAR:
Worked in the round in a circle. Start by making a MAGIC CIRCLE - read explanation above - at the bottom of pear with pistachio on hook size 4.5 mm.
ROUND 1: Work 7 dc in the magic circle - READ WORK IN THE ROUND IN A CIRCLE.
ROUND 2: Inc 1 dc in every dc = 14 dc.
ROUND 3: * 1 dc in next dc, inc 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 21 dc.
ROUND 4: * 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, inc 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 28 dc.
ROUND 5: * 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, inc 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 35 dc.
ROUND 6: Work 1 dc in every dc.
ROUND 7: * 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, inc 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 42 dc.
ROUND 8-13: Work 1 dc in every dc.
ROUND 14: * 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, dec 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 35 dc.
ROUND 15: * 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, dec 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 28 dc.
ROUND 16: * 1 dc in each of the next 5 dc, dec 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 24 dc.
ROUND 17-22: Work 1 dc in every dc.
ROUND 23: * 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, dec 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 18 dc.
ROUND 24: Work 1 dc in every dc.
ROUND 25: * 1 dc in next dc, dec 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 12 dc.
ROUND 26: Work 1 dc in every dc.
ROUND 27: Work all dc tog 2 by 2 = 6 dc, cut the thread. Fill the pear with some cotton wool, sew the last 6 dc tog with thread end.

STEM:
Worked in the round in a circle. Work 3 ch with brown on hook size 4.5 mm, then 2 dc in 1st and 2nd ch worked = 4 dc. Continue in the round and work a total of 16 dc with 1 dc in every dc, cut and fasten the thread.

LEAF:
Worked back and forth. Crochet a row with 8 ch and opal green on hook size 4.5 mm, then crochet along the ch-row as follows: 1 sl st in 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc in each of the next 2 ch, 1 htr in next ch, 1 tr in each of the next 2 ch, 2 dc in the last ch. Then work on the other side of ch-row as follows: 1 tr in each of the next 2 ch, 1 htr in next ch, 1 dc in each of the next 2 ch, 1 sl st in the last ch, cut and fasten the thread.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew stem and leaf at the top of pear.

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CLEMENTINE:
Worked in the round in a circle. Start by making a MAGIC CIRCLE - read explanation above - at the bottom of clementine with orange on hook size 4.5 mm.
ROUND 1: Work 7 dc in the magic circle - READ WORK IN THE ROUND IN A CIRCLE.
ROUND 2: Inc 1 dc in every dc = 14 dc.
ROUND 3: * 1 dc in next dc, inc 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 21 dc.
ROUND 4: * 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, inc 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 28 dc.
ROUND 5: * 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, inc 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 35 dc.
ROUND 6-10: Work 1 dc in every dc.
ROUND 11: * 1 dc in each of the next 5 dc, dec 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 30 dc.
ROUND 12: Work 1 dc in every dc.
ROUND 13: * 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, dec 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 24 dc.
ROUND 14: * 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, dec 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 18 dc.
ROUND 15: * 1 dc in next dc, dec 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 12 dc.
ROUND 16: Work all dc tog 2 by 2 = 6 dc, cut the thread. Fill the clementine with some cotton wool, sew the last 6 dc tog with thread end. NOTE: Pull the thread end through the top and bottom of clementine to make a dent in each side.

LEAF:
Worked back and forth. Crochet a row with 6 ch and opal green on hook size 4.5 mm, then crochet along the ch-row as follows: 1 sl st in 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc in next ch, 1 htr in next ch, 1 tr in next ch, 3 tr in the last ch. Then work on the other side of ch-row as follows: 1 tr in next ch, 1 htr in next ch, 1 dc in next ch, 1 sl st in last ch, cut and fasten the thread.

ASSEMBLY:
Work another leaf the same way and fasten them at the top of the clementine. Sew a couple of stitches with brown between the 2 leaves.

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STRAWBERRY:
Worked in the round in a circle. Start by making a MAGIC CIRCLE - read explanation above - at the bottom of strawberry with shocking pink on hook size 4.5 mm.
ROUND 1: Work 4 dc in the magic circle - READ WORK IN THE ROUND IN A CIRCLE.
ROUND 2: Inc 1 dc in every dc = 8 dc.
ROUND 3: * 1 dc in next dc, inc 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 12 dc.
ROUND 4: * 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, inc 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 16 dc.
ROUND 5: Work 1 dc in every dc.
ROUND 6: * 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, inc 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 20 dc.
ROUND 7: Work 1 dc in every dc.
ROUND 8: * 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, inc 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 24 dc.
ROUND 9 and 10: Work 1 dc in every dc.
ROUND 11: * 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, dec 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 18 dc. ROUND 12: * 1 dc in next dc, dec 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 12 dc.
ROUND 13: Work all dc tog 2 by 2 = 6 dc, cut the thread. Fill the strawberry with some cotton wool, sew the last 6 dc tog with thread end.

LEAF:
Worked in the round. Work 48 ch with pistachio on hook size 4.5 mm and form a ring with 1 sl st in 1st ch.
ROUND 1: Work 1 dc in first ch, * skip 5 ch, 1 dc in next ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish by skipping the last 5 ch and 1 sl st in 1st dc = 8 dc and 8 ch-loops.
ROUND 2: Work 1 ch, 1 dc in every dc, finish with 1 sl st in first dc.
ROUND 3: Work 1 ch, work all dc tog 2 by 2 = 4 dc. Then work 1 dc in every dc, cut and fasten the thread. Sew leaves at the top of strawberry. Sew some stitches with strong yellow on the strawberry.

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KIWI:
Worked in the round in a circle. Start by making a MAGIC CIRCLE - read explanation above - with pistachio on hook size 4.5 mm at the top of a cut kiwi.
ROUND 1: Work 7 dc in the magic circle - READ WORK IN THE ROUND IN A CIRCLE.
ROUND 2: Inc 1 dc in every dc = 14 dc.
ROUND 3: * 1 dc in next dc, inc 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 21 dc.
ROUND 4: * 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, inc 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 28 dc.
ROUND 5: Work 1 dc in every dc - switch to green in the last dc on round - READ COLOUR CHANGE.
ROUND 6-10: With green work 1 dc in every dc.
ROUND 11: * 1 dc in each of the next 5 dc, dec 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 24 dc.
ROUND 12: 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, dec 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 18 dc.
ROUND 13: * 1 dc in next dc, dec 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 12 dc.
ROUND 14: Work all dc tog 2 by 2 = 6 dc, cut the thread. Fill the piece with some cotton wool, sew the last 6 dc tog with thread end.
Sew some stitches with brown at the bottom of piece in pistachio.

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MUSHROOM:
Worked in the round in a circle. Start by making a MAGIC CIRCLE - Read explanation above - at the top of the mushroom with brown on hook size 4.5 mm.
ROUND 1: Work 7 dc in the magic circle - READ WORK IN THE ROUND IN A CIRCLE.
ROUND 2: Inc 1 dc in every dc = 14 dc.
ROUND 3: * 1 dc in next dc, inc 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 21 dc.
ROUND 4: * 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, inc 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 28 dc.
ROUND 5: Work 1 dc in every dc.
ROUND 6: * 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, inc 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 35 dc.
ROUND 7: Inc 1 dc in 1st dc, then 1 dc in every dc = 36 dc.
ROUND 8 and 9: Work 1 dc in every dc.
ROUND 10: * 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, dec 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 30 dc, switch to dark beige in the last dc on round - READ COLOUR CHANGE.
ROUND 11: With dark beige work * 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, dec 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 24 dc.
ROUND 12: * 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, dec 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 18 dc.
ROUND 13: * 1 dc in next dc, dec 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 12 dc.
ROUND 14 and 15: Work 1 dc in every dc.
ROUND 16: * 1 dc in each of the next 5 dc, inc 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 14 dc.
ROUND 17: Work 1 dc in every dc.
ROUND 18: * 1 dc in each of the next 6 dc, inc 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 16 dc.
ROUND 19: Work 1 dc in every dc.
ROUND 20: * 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, dec 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 12 dc.
ROUND 21: Work all dc tog 2 by 2 = 6 dc, cut the thread. Fill the mushroom with some cotton wool, sew the last 6 dc tog with thread end.

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BANANA:
Worked in the round in a circle. Work 2 ch with strong yellow on hook size 4.5 mm.
ROUND 1: Work 3 dc in 1st ch - READ WORK IN THE ROUND IN A CIRCLE.
ROUND 2: Inc 1 dc in every dc = 6 dc.
ROUND 3: Inc 1 dc in every dc = 12 dc.
ROUND 4: Work 1 dc in every dc.
ROUND 5: Work 1 dc in every dc but inc 1 dc in 1st and last dc on round = 14 dc.
Repeat 4th and 5th round (i.e. inc 1 dc in 1st and last dc on every other round) so that there are 20 dc on round.
ROUND 12: Inc 1 dc in each of the first 2 dc, 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, dec 4 dc over the next 8 dc - READ DECREASE TIP, 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, inc 1 dc in each of the last 2 dc = 20 dc.
ROUND 13 and 14: Work 1 dc in every dc.
ROUND 15: Inc 1 dc in each of the first 3 dc, 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, dec 4 dc over the next 8 dc, 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, inc 1 dc in last dc.
ROUND 16 and 17: Work 1 dc in every dc.
ROUND 18: Inc 1 dc in each of the first 4 dc, 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, dec 4 dc, 1 dc in each of the last 4 dc.
ROUND 19 and 20: Work 1 dc in every dc.
ROUND 21: Work 1 dc in each of the first 2 dc, inc 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, dec 4 dc over the next 8 dc, 1 dc in each of the last 2 dc.
ROUND 22 and 23: Work 1 dc in every dc.
ROUND 24: Work 1 dc in each of the first 4 dc, inc 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, dec 4 dc over the last 8 dc.
ROUND 25 and 26: Work 1 dc in every dc.
ROUND 27: Dec 1 dc over the first 2 dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, inc 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, dec 3 dc over the next 6 dc.
ROUND 28 and 29: Work 1 dc in every dc.
ROUND 30: Dec 2 dc over the first 4 dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, inc 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, dec 2 dc over the next 4 dc.
ROUND 31: Work 1 dc in every dc.
ROUND 32: Dec 2 dc over the first 4 dc, work 1 dc in every dc until 4 dc remain, dec 2 dc over the next 4 dc = 16 dc.
Repeat 32nd round 2 more times = 8 dc. Fill the banana with some cotton wool. On next round dec 2 dc = 6 dc remain, then work 12 dc with 1 dc in every dc, cut and fasten the thread.

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BANANA WITH SKIN:
Worked in the round in a circle. Work 2 ch with strong yellow on hook size 4.5 mm. ROUND 1: Work 3 dc in 1st ch - READ WORK IN THE ROUND IN A CIRCLE.
ROUND 2: Inc 1 dc in every dc = 6 dc.
ROUND 3: Inc 1 dc in every dc = 12 dc.
ROUND 4: Work 1 dc in every dc.
ROUND 5: Work 1 dc in every dc but inc 1 dc in 1st and last dc on round = 14 dc.
Repeat 4th and 5th round (i.e. inc 1 dc in 1st and last dc on every other round) so that there are 20 dc on round.
ROUND 12: Inc 1 dc in each of the first 2 dc, 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, dec 4 dc over the next 8 dc - READ DECREASE TIP, 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, inc 1 dc in each of the last 2 dc = 20 dc.
ROUND 13 and 14: Work 1 dc in every dc.
ROUND 15: Inc 1 dc in each of the first 3 dc, 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, dec 4 dc over the next 8 dc, 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, inc 1 dc in last dc.
ROUND 16 and 17: Work 1 dc in every dc.
ROUND 18: Inc 1 dc in each of the first 4 dc, 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, dec 4 dc over the next 8 dc, 1 dc in each of the last 4 dc.
ROUND 19 and 20: Work 1 dc in every dc, switch to off white in the last dc on last round - READ COLOUR CHANGE.
ROUND 21: With off white work 1 dc in each of the first 2 dc, inc 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, dec 4 dc over the next 8 dc, 1 dc in each of the last 2 dc.
ROUND 22 and 23: Work 1 dc in every dc.
ROUND 24: Work 1 dc in each of the first 4 dc, inc 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, dec 4 dc over the last 8 dc.
ROUND 25 and 26: Work 1 dc in every dc.
ROUND 27: Dec 1 dc over the first 2 dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, inc 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, dec 3 dc over the next 6 dc.
ROUND 28 and 29: Work 1 dc in every dc.
ROUND 30: Dec 2 dc over the first 4 dc, work 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, inc 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, dec 2 dc over the next 4 dc.
ROUND 31: Work 1 dc in every dc.
ROUND 32: Dec 2 dc over the first 4 dc, work 1 dc in every dc until 4 dc remain, dec 2 dc over the next 4 dc = 16 dc.
Repeat 32nd round 2 more times = 8 dc. Fill the banana with some cotton wool. On next round dec 2 dc = 6 dc remain, cut the thread, sew the last 6 dc tog with thread end.

BANANA SKIN:
Worked back and forth. With strong yellow and hook size 4.5 mm, work as follows on last round with strong yellow: Work 1 dc in each of the first 6 dc, turn. Work 12 dc rows (every row beg 1 ch, 1 dc in every dc). On next row dec 1 dc at beg and end of row, then work the remaining dc tog 2 by 2 on next row, cut the thread. Repeat on the next 8 dc on round, then on the last 6 dc on round = 3 banana skins.

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BASKET:
Measurements: Approx. height 12 cm
Worked in the round in a circle. Start by making a MAGIC CIRCLE - read explanation above - at the bottom of basket with dark beige on hook size 4.5 mm.
ROUND 1: Work 8 dc in the magic circle - READ WORK IN THE ROUND IN A CIRCLE.
ROUND 2: Inc 1 dc in every dc = 16 dc.
ROUND 3: * 1 dc in next dc, inc 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 24 dc.
ROUND 4: * 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, inc 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 32 dc.
ROUND 5: * 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, inc 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 40 dc.
ROUND 6 (and then on every even numbered round): Work 1 dc in every dc.
ROUND 7: * 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, inc 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 48 dc.
ROUND 9: * 1 dc in each of the next 5 dc, inc 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 56 dc.
ROUND 11: * 1 dc in each of the next 6 dc, inc 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 64 dc.
ROUND 13: * 1 dc in each of the next 7 dc, inc 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 72 dc.
ROUND 15: * 1 dc in each of the next 5 dc, inc 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 84 dc.
ROUND 17: * 1 dc in each of the next 6 dc, inc 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 96 dc.
ROUND 19: * 1 dc in each of the next 7 dc, inc 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 108 dc.
ROUND 21: * 1 dc in each of the next 8 dc, inc 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 120 dc.
ROUND 22-26: Work 1 dc in every dc, switch to pistachio in the last dc on last round - READ COLOUR CHANGE.
Then work stripes as follows: Work 2 rounds pistachio, 2 rounds dark beige, 2 rounds pistachio. Then work 1 dc in every dc with dark beige until basket measures approx. 10 cm vertically (measured from upper edge when basket lies flat). Switch to pistachio in the last dc on the last round and work 1 round with pistachio. Next (= last) round is worked with pistachio as follows: * Work 1 dc, work ch for approx. 14 cm (for handle), skip the next 16 sts, 1 dc in each of the next 43 dc *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, finish with 1 sl st in 1st dc on round = 2 ch-loops for handles in each side of basket. Crochet with 2 threads pistachio on hook size 5 mm around each handle as follows: Work 32 dc, cut and fasten the thread.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 25.08.2016
New yarn amount no 39:
100 g colour no 39, pistachio

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 23-56) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (26)

Szilvi 10.09.2019 - 16:47:

Kedves Drops! Köszönöm a mintát. Szeretnék segítséget kérni. Hogy kell az alma szárát horgolni? Üdv. Szilvi

DROPS Design 30.09.2019 kl. 22:31:

Kedves Szilvia, ezt a mintát még nem fordítottuk le magyarra... a szárat a köv módon kell készíteni: Körben horgoljuk. 3 sz a barna fonallal, 4,5 mm vastag horg tűvel., majd 2 rp az 1. és 2. sz-be = 4 rp. folytassuk körben haladva, 1-1 rp-t minden szembe, 16 sorig. Vágjuk el a fonalat, és rögzítsük a szálat. Sikeres kézimunkázást!

Kathrin 31.08.2019 - 11:32:

Schaffe ich mit der angegebenen Wollmenge (50g pro Farbe) genau die Menge an Obst/Gemüse, die im Korb liegt? Also von jedem Obst/Gemüse 3 Stück? (Reichen 50g = 75m Lauflänge für 3 Teile?)

DROPS Design 02.09.2019 kl. 09:29:

Liebe Kathrin, ja genau, es sollte reichen für die Obst/Gemüse im Foto. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Jennifer 30.05.2019 - 18:45:

Vielen Dank für die tollen Anleitungen! Wir haben schon einen ganzen Kaufmannsladen zusammen dadurch. Wirklich gelungen! :-)

Lorraine 22.05.2019 - 16:17:

Bonjour, j'aimerai me lancer dans ce projet mais avant cela je désirerais savoir combien de fruits et légumes peut on réaliser avec les indications données.

DROPS Design 23.05.2019 kl. 10:05:

Bonjour Lorraine, nous n'avons malheureusement pas le poids de chaque modèle, vous devriez toutefois être en mesure de pouvoir réaliser approximativement le nombre de fruits/légumes sur la photo. Bon crochet!

Namtaliz 07.11.2018 - 22:30:

Bonjour Je suis sur les poignées du panier et je ne comprends pas bien je dois avoir 32ms par poignée ou 32ms au total soit 16ms par poignées? Je vous remercie par avance

DROPS Design 08.11.2018 kl. 09:13:

Bonjour Namtaliz, vous devez avoir 2 poignées de 16 ml (16 ms au tour suivant) chacune, soit une de chaque côté du panier - le texte a été clarifié. Bon crochet!

Idoia 24.04.2018 - 20:07:

Gracias por los patrones. Los he hecho h han salido genial . Una suerte que haya gente que cuelgue así gratuitamente los patrones. Un saludo

Barroso 20.04.2018 - 20:22:

Bonjour, D'abord je vous félicite pour tous ces modèles. J'ai envie de tout faire! Concernant le panier, je me demande s'il est assez grand pour tout mettre dedans. Je suis déjà au tour 14 et il ne fait que 10 cm de diamètre. Au 21eme tour il ne devra faire que 15 cm. Merci beaucoup!

DROPS Design 23.04.2018 kl. 08:23:

Bonjour Mme Barroso, votre tension est probablement trop serrée, vous devez avoir 18 ms = 10 cm de large. Vous pouvez toutefois toujours l'agrandir en crochetant davantage de tours avec les augmentations jusqu'à ce que vous ayez la taille souhaitée. Bon crochet!

Nera Fijma-roubos 13.03.2018 - 11:03:

Ongeveer 5 jaar geleden al voor mn kleindochter gemaakt en er wordt nog steeds mee gespeeld. Echt super leuk!!

Camille 23.08.2017 - 17:32:

Bonjour Je suis en train de faire la banane et le tour 15 me pose souci. Au tour 14 jai bien 20 mailles. Je suis bien sensée n'en retrouver que 16 après le tour 15 ? (D'après les explications du tour 17 il n'y a plus que 16 mailles) je suis perdue... merci !

DROPS Design 23.08.2017 kl. 18:41:

Bonjour Camille, au tour 15, il y a 4 ms augmentés et 4 ms diminués. Ça veut dire qu'il y a 20 ms dans ce tour.

Giovanna Monsalve 29.06.2017 - 15:41:

Hola! Sobra decir que están hermosos. Pero me gustaría entender este precio de 16€ ¿a qué corresponde exactamente? Te lo pregunto porque veo precios de materiales y veo que el patrón no es lo que vendes, como creí en un principio. Muchas gracias y bellísimo tu trabajo. Sauludos desde Bogotá, Colombia.

DROPS Design 01.07.2017 kl. 19:01:

Hola Giovanna. Todos los patrones de Drops son gratuitos. El precio que ves arriba del patrón es el precio mínimo del material recomendado en el patrón necesario para realizar la talla más pequeña.

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