Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Anna |
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Knitted jumper with shawl collar, stripes and moss stitch in DROPS Karisma. Sizes S to XXXL.
DROPS 135-25 |
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DOUBLE MOSS ST: 1st round: * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from *-*. 2nd round: K over K and P over P. 3rd round: * P 1, K 1 *, repeat from *-*. 4th round: P over P and K over K. Repeat rounds 1-4. STRIPES 1 (applies to body): Work medium grey and light grey alternately every 11-11-11½-12-12-12½ cm. NOTE: Measure first stripe from cast on edge. Work medium grey in the last stripe until finished measurements. STRIPES 2 (applies to sleeve): Work medium grey and light grey alternately every 10 cm. NOTE: Measure first stripe from cast on edge. Work medium grey in the last stripe until finished measurements. INCREASE TIP: Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next round K YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead front) to avoid holes. PATTERN 1: Row 1 (= from RS): K all sts. Row 2 (= from WS): * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from *-*. Repeat 1st and 2nd row. GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows. -------------------------------------------------------- BODY: Worked in the round on circular needle. Cast on 213-234-255-288-318-351 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm with light grey. Work rib as follows: * K 1, P 2 *, repeat from *-*. When piece measures 4 cm, K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 53-58-63-72-78-87 sts evenly (dec by K tog approx. every 3rd and 4th st) = 160-176-192-216-240-264 sts. Then switch to circular needle size 4 mm and continue in the round with DOUBLE MOSS ST and STRIPES 1 - See explanation above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 15-15-16-16-17-17 cm, insert 2 markers in the piece; 1 at beg of round and 1 after 80-88-96-108-120-132 sts (marks the sides). On next round, inc 1 st on each side of every marker - Read INCREASE TIP above = 4 new sts on round. NOTE: Work the new sts in double moss st. Repeat inc one more time when piece measures 30-30-32-32-34-34 cm = 168-184-200-224-248-272 sts. Continue until piece measures 47-48-49-50-51-52 cm (adjust so that last round is 2nd or 4th round in moss st). Then divide the piece at the markers and finish each part separately. BACK PIECE: = 84-92-100-112-124-136 sts (1st row = WS). Continue with STRIPES 1 and DOUBLE MOSS ST - while AT THE SAME TIME casting off for armholes in each side on every other row as follows: Cast off 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 0-1-2-4-6-8 times and 1 st 1-2-3-4-5-6 times = 76-78-80-82-84-86 sts. When piece measures 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm, cast off the middle 24-26-28-30-32-34 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Then dec 1 st on next row from neck (dec by working the outermost 2 sts towards the neck tog) = 25 sts remain on shoulder in all sizes. Loosely cast off all sts when piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm. FRONT PIECE: = 84-92-100-112-124-136 sts. Continue with STRIPES 1 and DOUBLE MOSS ST. Start cast offs for armholes as on back piece on 1st row (= RS) - AT THE SAME TIME slip the middle 26-28-30-32-34-36 sts on a stitch holder for neck at the front, now finish each part separately. Cast off for armholes in each side as on back piece. When all cast offs are done, 25 sts remain on each shoulder. Continue with STRIPES 1 and DOUBLE MOSS ST. When piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm, loosely cast off all sts. SLEEVE: Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 63-66-69-72-75-78 sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm with light grey. Work rib as follows: * K 1, P 2 *, repeat from *-*. When piece measures 4 cm, K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 15-16-17-18-19-20 sts evenly (dec by K tog approx. every 3rd and 4th st) = 48-50-52-54-56-58 sts. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm and insert a marker at beg of round. Then continue in the round with DOUBLE MOSS ST and STRIPES 2 - See explanation above. When piece measures 8-8-7-7-8-7 cm, inc 1 st on each side of marker = 2 new sts. Repeat inc every 4-3½-3-2½-2-2 cm a total of 10-11-13-15-17-18 times = 68-72-78-84-90-94 sts. When piece measures 49-49-48-48-47-45 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and broader shoulder width) cast off 3 sts on each side of marker (= 6 sts mid under sleeve). Then work back and forth on circular needle. Continue to cast off for sleeve cap in each side on every other row as follows: Cast off 2 sts 2-2-3-3-5-5 times, and then 1 st 3-4-4-5-5-6 times. Then cast off 2 sts in each side until piece measures 56-57-57-58-59-59 cm, then cast off 3 sts 1 time in each side. Loosely cast off all sts. Piece measures approx. 57-58-58-59-60-60 cm. ASSEMBLY: Sew the shoulder seams tog. Sew in the sleeves. RIGHT COLLAR: Worked back and forth on circular needle size 4 mm with medium grey. Knit up from WS sts from stitch holder mid front (leave sts on the stitch holder for left collar) = 26-28-30-32-34-36 sts. Then work PATTERN 1 - See explanation above, beg from next row (= RS). NOTE: Insert a marker at the end of 1st row from RS. When collar measures 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm, continue in GARTER ST - See explanation above - until finished measurements - while at the same time working short rows (beg from next row from RS) as follows: * Work 2 rows over all sts, work 2 rows over the outermost 20 sts towards mid front *, repeat from *-* until piece measures 8-9-9-10-10-11 cm from marker (in the shorter side). Cast off. LEFT COLLAR: Knit up the middle sts from stitch holder from WS behind right collar = left collar is underneath right collar. Work the same way as on right collar but reversed (work short rows over the outermost 20 sts towards mid front). ASSEMBLY: Sew right collar to right front piece and left collar to left front piece in outermost sts. Sew collar tog mid back and sew the neck on back piece. STRAP: Make 1 strap as follows: Twine 2 threads of 40 cm medium grey and fold them double. Make another strap the same way. Fasten the straps approx. 4 and 11 cm up from bottom edge on right collar (approx. 1 cm from edge mid front). Pull the threads through the collar and fasten the ends on the back. Sew button on left collar approx. 2 and 4 cm in from seam for left front piece. |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 309 catalogues and 11545 patterns translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (59)
Veronika wrote:
Hur många maskor ska det vara på ärmen när man avmaskar?
25.06.2024 - 18:54DROPS Design answered:
Hej Veronika, det kommer an på hvilken størrelse du strikker og hvor mange pinde du kan nå at strikke fra du lukker de første masker af til ærmegab og til du lukker de sidste masker af.... men du fortsætter bare med at lukke 2 masker af i hver side til du har det rigtige mål :)
26.06.2024 - 12:01Mirjam De Nooij wrote:
Ik heb een vraag over de kraag: Neem aan de verkeerde kant st op in de st op de hulpdraad middenvoor (laat de st op de hulpdraad staan voor de linker kraag) = 26-28-30-32-34-36 st. Hoe doe ik dit ? Daar na verder breien en vervolgens bij de linker kraag: Zet de middelste st van de hulpdraad aan de verkeerde kant achter de rechter kraag terug op de nld = linker kraag achter de rechter kraag. Hoe doe ik dit ? Ik hier een filmpje van?
11.04.2024 - 14:26DROPS Design answered:
Dag Mirjam,
Je neemt steken op van de hulpdraad, maar je laat de hulpdraad erin zitten zodat je later op precies dezelfde plek ook steken op kunt nemen voor de rechter kraag. Op deze manier krijg je 2 lagen over elkaar heen. Voor zover ik weet is er helaas geen filmpje van.
11.04.2024 - 20:28Asta Johannsen wrote:
Hallo liebes Drops-team, das ist wirklich ein schöner Pullover, jedoch zum Ende benötige ich doch einmal Hilfe. Ich bin nicht besonders begabt im Nähen und verstehe somit die Beschreibung für die Knöpfe. Es fängt schon an, dass ich w Schlaufen machen soll und für jeden Knopf 2 Schlaufen? Und wo kommt der Knopf zum Einsatz? Und wie soll ich den festnähen? Das mit den Angaben der Zentimeter habe ich, glaube ich, verstanden. Danke schön mal im Voraus.
17.09.2023 - 17:56DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Johannsen, machen Sie 2 Schlaufen (siehe Video - jede wird dann doppelt gefaltet um eine Schleife zu bilden und so angenäht, die 1. ca 4 cm von der untere Kante und die 2. ca 11 cm von der untere Kante (von den abgekettenen Maschen an der vorderen Mitte gemessen). Die Knöpfe werden ca ab 2 und 4 cm am anderen Teilen vom Kragen genäht - am besten legen Sie den Pullover flach und finden Sie die beste passende Höhe. Viel Spaß beim fertigstellen!
18.09.2023 - 15:53TATINCLAUX wrote:
Bonjour, Pourriez vous m'expliquer comment faire pour tricoter les mailles sur l'arrêt de maille et les laisser sur l'arrêt de mailles. Merci pour votre retour. Cordialement
17.08.2023 - 18:58DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Tatinclaux, lorsque vous glissez les mailles de l'encolure devant en attente, vous n'avez pas besoin de les tricoter, vous pouvez les glisser sur un fil (ou un arrêt de mailles) comme dans cette vidéo et les reprendre ensuite pour le col comme dans cette autre vidéo. Bon tricot!
18.08.2023 - 08:13Claudia wrote:
Guten Morgen, Ich meinte, dass ich den Text/Anweisungen Rechter Kragen und linken Kragen leider nicht verstehe. Liebe Grüße
17.03.2023 - 07:11DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Claudia, sollte Ihnen die vorrige Antwort nicht helfen können, können Sie uns bitte mehr sagen, welches Teil vom Kragen, Sie nicht verstehen? So kann man Ihnen am besten helfen. Danke für Ihr Verständnis.
17.03.2023 - 08:56Claudia wrote:
Guten Tag, das mit dem Kragen verstehe ich leider überhaupt nicht?? Liebe Grüße
12.03.2023 - 15:06DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Claudia, die stillgelegten Maschen stricken Sie zuerst von der Rückseite aber diese stillgelegten Maschen sollen Sie still lassen (sie werden gestrickt aber sie sollen auf einem Faden/einer extra Nadel bleiben, da sie für den linke Kragen später noch mal gestrickt werden). Dann stricken Sie zuerst im Muster-1, dann krausrechts mit verkürzten Reihen (für den Schlalkragen). Viel Spaß beim stricken!
13.03.2023 - 09:52Kay Campbell wrote:
I have just finished knitting this jumper but have found the sleeve cap too short when I tried to sew the sleeve in, should I just knit up extra rows without shaping to accommodate the length? Many thanks
15.10.2022 - 04:02DROPS Design answered:
Dear Kay, if you have been following the measurements while working the sleeve, the sleeve cap should fit the armhole. You should redo the sleeve cap and when you need to cast off stitches for shaping the sleeve cap, check the measurements of the sleeve cap and the armhole so that they fit. In the case that they still don't fit you can simply add a few extra rows to lengthen the sleeve cap. Happy knitting!
17.10.2022 - 00:06Saskia wrote:
Hoi, ik heb nog nooit meegemaakt dat er na een boord steken geminderd worden. Gaat het boord dan niet lubberen? En wat is het effect hiervan? Waarom wordt hier niet `gewoon` gemeerderd? Heeft dit misschien te maken met het verder breien in gerstekorrel?
17.08.2022 - 15:16DROPS Design answered:
Dag Saskia,
In sommige patronen wordt er inderdaad gemeerderd na de boordsteek om ervoor te zorgen dat de boord wat wijder is dan de rest.
17.08.2022 - 16:41Sawnuy wrote:
Hallo, 2 R. nur über die äussersten 20 M. stricken. Ist es die Richtung Ärmel ? Vielen Dank
14.12.2021 - 20:59DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Sawnuy, beim rechten Kragen fangen Sie die verkürtzten Reihen mit einer Hinreihe an, so daß diese 20 Maschen die ersten bei der Hin-Reihe sind. Beim linken Kragen sind diese 20 Maschen die ersten der Rückreihe. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
15.12.2021 - 08:04Anita wrote:
Op 8 december 2020 heb ik een vraag gesteld over de wijze waarop de kraag moet worden bevestigd aan voor en achterland. Graag zou ik een reactie krijgen, zodat ik de trui kan afwerken. Mvg Anita
15.02.2021 - 21:05DROPS Design answered:
Dag Anita,
Excuses voor de late reactie. De vraag is zojuist beantwoord. Hopelijk kun je nu verder.
16.02.2021 - 14:31