DROPS / 135 / 8

Snowfall by DROPS Design

Knitted socks for men, with Nordic pattern in DROPS Fabel. Size 35-46

DROPS design: Pattern no FA-161
Yarn group A
Size: 35/37 - 38/40 - 41/43 - 44/46
Foot length: 22 - 24 - 27 - 30 cm
Leg length: 42 - 44 - 46 - 48 cm
Materials: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
100-100-150-150 g colour no 200, grey
50-50-100-100 g colour no 100, off white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm - or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 2.50 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
See diagram M.1, M.2 and M.3, all diagrams are worked in stocking st.
Dec as follows before marker: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: K 2 twisted tog (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front).
1st row (= RS): Work until 9-10-10-11 sts remain, K 2 twisted tog (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front), turn piece.
2nd row (= WS): Work until 9-10-10-11 sts remain, P 2 tog, turn piece.
3rd row (= RS): Work until 8-9-9-10 sts remain, K 2 twisted tog, turn piece.
4th row (= WS): Work until 8-9-9-10 sts remain, P 2 tog, turn piece.
Continue dec like this with 1 st less before working 2 sts tog until 14-14-16-16 sts remain on needle.

Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 100-108-112-120 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with grey. Work rib = K 2/P 2 for 10 cm. K 1 round while at the same time dec 16-12-16-12 sts evenly = 84-96-96-108 sts. Continue with diagram M.1.
Continue with diagram M.2 – at the same time on first and last round in diagram M.2, dec 6 sts evenly = 72-84-84-96 sts. Piece now measures approx. 24 cm, insert a marker at beg of round. Continue with diagram M.3 – AT THE SAME TIME on 5th round, dec 1 st on each side of marker – SEE DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every 5th round a total of 6-10-8-12 times. NOTE: Pattern will no fit mid back when decreasing but make sure that pattern fits around the sock otherwise. After all dec are done there are 60-64-68-72 sts on needle. When piece measures 42-44-46-48 cm, keep the first 15-16-17-18 sts on needle for heel, slip the next 30-32-34-36 sts on a stitch holder (= mid upper foot) and keep the last 15-16-17-18 sts on needle for heel. Finish piece with grey. Continue in stocking st back and forth over the 30-32-34-36 heel sts for 5-5½-6-6½ cm - insert a marker. Then work HEEL DECREASE - see explanation above!
After heel dec, knit up 13-14-15-16 sts along each side of heel and slip the 30-32-34-36 sts from stitch holder back on needle = 70-74-80-84 sts. Insert a marker on each side of the middle 30-32-34-36 sts on upper foot. Continue in stocking st in the round while AT THE SAME TIME dec in each side as follows: K tog the last 2 sts BEFORE marker on mid upper foot twisted (i.e. work in the back loop of st instead of front) and K tog the first 2 sts AFTER last marker on upper foot. Repeat dec every other round a total of 9-9-10-10 times = 52-56-60-64 sts. Continue until piece measures 18-20-22-25 cm from marker on heel (= approx. 4-4-5-5 cm remain). Insert a marker in each side so that there are 26-28-30-32 sts on upper foot and 26-28-30-32 sts under foot. Continue working stocking st while AT THE SAME TIME dec for toes on each side of both markers as follows: Work until 3 sts remain before marker, K 2 tog, K 2 (marker is between these 2 sts), K 2 twisted tog.
Repeat dec on every other round a total of 4-3-5-5 times and then on every round a total of 7-9-8-9 times = 8 sts remain on needle.
Cut the thread and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten.


= off white
= gray

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 135-8) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (23)

Lea 28.05.2020 - 14:56:

Sæl, mig langar að spyrja hvort úrtakan komi á hlið sokks eða á aftan?

DROPS Design 29.05.2020 kl. 12:29:

Blessuð Lea. Prjónamerki er sett í byrjun á umferð og lykkjum er fækkað hvoru megin við prjónamerki. ATH: Á meðan úrtaka stendur yfir, kemur mynstrið ekki til með að ganga upp við miðju að aftan, en sjáið til þess að það gangi annars upp hringinn. Gangi þér vel.

Sandra Martins 14.03.2017 - 11:10:

Hello Drops team, I was doing this pattern, and everything was fine until I realised the diagram is in the wrong colours, comparing to the photo. That should be changed to prevent other people doing the pattern wrong. Thanks, Sandra

Knut 13.03.2016 - 16:32:

Det ska vara 48 i största storleken. Man kan alltid kolla det norska originalet!

Magdalena 12.03.2016 - 22:57:

Hej! På ett ställe i mönstret står det att man ska sticka tills arbetet mäter 42-44-46 cm. Det är dock fyra olika storlekar i mönstret, så man vet inte vilket antal cm som hör till vilken storlek.

DROPS Design 14.03.2016 kl. 09:02:

Hej Magdalena, Det skall stå; 42-44-46-48 cm och det är lagt in i mönstret. Lycka tll!

Anne Marie Glover 28.02.2016 - 22:53:

Continue with diagram M.2 – at the same time on first and last round in diagram M.2, dec 6 sts evenly = 72-84-84-96 sts. Piece now measures approx. 24 cm / 9½'' --- SORRY FOR THE LAST COMMENT IM FROM ENGLAND NOT CANADA, ANYWAY ID LIKE FURTHER HELP ON THIS PATTERN, I HAVE 21 STITCHES ON EACH 4 NEEDLES AND NEED TO DO THIS DECREASE ABOVE COULD YOU HELP OUT PLEASE.

DROPS Design 29.02.2016 kl. 10:00:

Dear Mrs Glover, please see here how to dec evenly. Happy knitting!

Anne Marie Glover 28.02.2016 - 22:22:

Continue with diagram M.2 – at the same time on first and last round in diagram M.2, dec 6 sts evenly = 72-84-84-96 sts. Piece now measures approx. 24 cm / 9½''

Anne Marie Glover 22.02.2016 - 15:11:

HI THERE, Im doing this pattern and i just nearly finishing the ribbing, using 5 needles 4 needles with stitches using 5th one now it tells me to knit a round but at the same time decrease 16, which leaves me with 84, now do i divide the stitches on 4 needles what would that be on each needle? the decreases are slightly confusing me cos im using 4 needles could you help cheers.

DROPS Design 22.02.2016 kl. 15:33:

Dear Mrs Glover, when working with 5 needles, you distribute 21 sts on each of the 4 dpn (21x4=84 sts). Happy knitting!

Campagnès Claire 28.12.2015 - 19:55:

Vous avez interverti les couleurs dans la légende du diagramme gris et écru...

Cecilia Annehed 03.11.2015 - 20:26:

Hej,varför kan jag Hej, det går inte att skriva ut mönsterdiagrammet till strumpmönster 135-8 Hur skall jag göra? Mvh Cecilia

DROPS Design 04.11.2015 kl. 09:35:

Hej. Om du trycker på knappen "Skriv ut: mönster" så ska både texten och mönsterdiagrammen komma med.

Ramon 20.10.2014 - 09:51:

In der Anleitung scheinen die Farben in der Legende vertauscht zu sein; ausgefüllt sollte grau und leer natur sein. Ändert sich damit der angegebene Garnverbrauch?

DROPS Design 20.10.2014 kl. 10:01:

Vielen Dank für den Hinweis, die Symboltexte wurden gerade korrigiert. Der Garnverbrauch bleibt wie angegeben. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

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