DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 36.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Men's knitted jumper with round yoke and Nordic pattern in DROPS Karisma. Size: S to XXXL.

DROPS 135-4
DROPS design: Pattern no U-640
Yarn group B
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
Colour no 53, anthracite:
600-650-700-750-850-900 g
Colour no 01, off white:
150-150-150-200-200-200 g

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm. NOTE: It is important that the knitting tension is correct vertically to get the right shape on the round yoke.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm and 80 cm) SIZE 3 mm - for rib


Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 36.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
See diagrams M.1 and M.2 – diagrams are worked in stocking st and show 1 repetition of pattern.

Worked in the round on circular needle.
Cast on 200-220-236-256-276-292 sts on circular needle size 3 mm with anthracite. Work rib = K 2/P 2 for 8 cm. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and K 1 round while at the same time dec 24-28-32-32-36-36 sts evenly = 176-192-204-224-240-256 sts. Insert a marker at beg of round and a marker after 88-96-102-112-120-128 sts (these marks the sides). Continue in stocking st.
When piece measures 15 cm, inc 1 st on each side of both markers. Repeat inc every 5 cm a total of 4-4-5-5-5-5 times = 192-208-224-244-260-276 sts.
When piece measures 41-42-44-45-46-48 cm, cast off 8 sts in each side for armholes (i.e. cast off 4 sts on each side of both markers).
Put piece aside and work the sleeves.

Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 56-56-60-60-64-64 sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm with anthracite. Work rib = K 2/P 2 for 8 cm. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm and K 1 round. Insert a marker mid under sleeve. Continue with diagram M.1, then work with anthracite until finished measurements. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 13 cm, inc 1 st on each side of marker under sleeve. Repeat inc on every 6th-6th-6th-6th-6th-5th round a total of 14-16-14-16-16-17 times = 84-88-88-92-96-98 sts. When piece measures 46-47-47-47-47-48 cm, cast off 8 sts mid under sleeve = 76-80-80-84-88-90 sts remain on needle. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve.

Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were cast off = 328-352-368-396-420-440 sts. Insert a marker mid back – now round beg here! K 1 round with anthracite while AT THE SAME TIME dec 4-10-8-18-6-8 sts evenly = 324-342-360-378-414-432 sts. Then K 0-2-2-5-7-7 rounds with anthracite, then continue with diagram M.2 (= 18-19-20-21-23-24 repetitions on the round). When M.2 has been worked, there are 126-133-140-147-161-168 sts on needle and piece measures approx. 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm up to shoulder. Work with anthracite and in stocking st until finished measurements. K 1 round while at the same time dec 34-37-40-43-53-56 sts evenly = 92-96-100-104-108-112 sts. Then work an elevation in the back as follows: K 8 sts past marker, turn, tighten thread and P 16 sts back, turn, tighten thread and K 24 sts, turn, continue to work 8 sts more in stocking st for every turn until a total of 80 sts have been worked after last turn, turn and K 1 round over all sts until mid back again.

Switch to circular needle size 3 mm. K 1 round while at the same time inc 20-20-16-16-12-12 sts evenly = 112-116-116-120-120-124 sts. Continue with rib = K 2/P 2 for 10 cm, then cast off with K over K and P over P.

Sew the openings under the sleeves tog.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 24.09.2012
New chart M.2 has been added.


symbols = off white
symbols = anthracite
symbols = K 2 tog
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Angelika, Germany

135-4 Neville

Stirlingknitter, United Kingdom

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Comments / Questions (70)

country flag Susanne Fabian wrote:

Hallo, ich möchte gerne den Pullover 135-4 stricken. Leider ist er ja nur bis 3XL angegeben, der Herr benötigt aber 5XL. Meine Frage nun: Folge ich dem Logarithmus der hier in folgenden Schritten angegeben ist? Also S-3XL Rundnadel Nr. 3, 200-220-236-256-276-292 M 20-16-20-20-16 - 20-20 zusätzlich für 4XL und 5XL? Ich hoffe, dass Sie verstehen, was ich meine. Vielen Dank schon mal

11.02.2024 - 20:57

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Fabian, leider können wir nicht jede Anleitung nach jeder Anfrage anpassen, gerne kann Ihnen damit Ihr Wollladen - auch per Telefon oder per E-Mail weiterhelfen. Danke für Ihr Verständnis. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

12.02.2024 - 09:14

country flag Ulla-Maria Quist wrote:

I mønster M1 til ærme, er der i rapporten 8 masker. Ærmets maskeantal efter rib er 60 masker (str L). Hvordan hulan passer det? 60 delt med 8 - den kan jeg ikke regne ud.

23.11.2023 - 12:51

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ulla-Maria, selve rapporten går kun over 4 masker, så den vil komme til at gå op :)

24.11.2023 - 14:48

country flag Stine wrote:

Hej :-) Jeg har strikket ribkanten og skal nu strikke 15cm før udt. Er det inklusiv ribkanten eller er det 15 cm glatstrik? Hav en god dag!

08.04.2023 - 23:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Stine, du måler fra starten af arbejdet :)

13.04.2023 - 14:53

country flag Françoise TEYCHENEY wrote:

Bonjour, je suis en trains de réaliser ce pull en taille M, mais je trouve que le rendu avec le rehausse-dos n'est pas joli. Est-il possible de le réaliser sans rehausse-dos et dans ce cas, combien de centimètre dois-je tricoter avant le cotes d'encolure ? Merci pour votre réponse et félicitations pour vos très beaux modèles que je fais régulièrement.

16.02.2023 - 16:01

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Teycheney et merci. Vous pouvez tout à fait "sauter" ces rangs raccourcis de la réhausse et passer directement au col. Ainsi, l'encolure devant et dos seront identiques. Bon tricot!

16.02.2023 - 16:50

country flag Xenia wrote:

Hej, jeg har problemer med at få den rette strikkefasthed. Strikkefastheden passer i bredden, men i højden har jeg ca. 10 flere masker end der burde være på 10 cm. Jeg har prøvet at skifte til et større pindenummer, men så kommer der for få masker i bredden. Hvad kan jeg gøre for at få strikkefastheden til at passe?

09.01.2023 - 15:30

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Xenia, Strikkefastheden stemmer hvis du strikker i DROPS Karisma. Du kan følge strikkefastheden i bredden og så følge målene som står i opskriften. Men du vil bruge mere garn når du har flere pinde på 10 cm :)

10.01.2023 - 11:43

country flag Dorthe wrote:

Was bedeutet es, wenn im Bild M2 zwei weiße Kästchen mit einem Strich durchgestrichen sind?

05.12.2022 - 15:33

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Dorthe, diese 2 Maschen stricken Sie rechts zusammen mit der Farbe der Runde. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

06.12.2022 - 10:35

country flag Britta wrote:

Liebes Team, was bedeutet es im Rapport M2 (Pullover Neville), wenn zwei Kästchen (weiß) nach recht durch gestrichen sind? LG Britta

05.12.2022 - 15:32

country flag Rosita wrote:

Buonasera io sto eseguendo tg. L stò facendo il disegno m2, non viene spiegato come da 360 maglie, facendo le 11 diminuzioni che si vedono su tutto il disegno m2 possa ritrovarmi a 140 maglie ! Potreste specificare meglio quante diminuzioni fare, per ottenere il risultato da: 360 a 140? Su m2 si vede solo una diminuzione all'inizio giro e basta! Spero di essermi spiegata bene, Grazie

25.10.2022 - 22:54

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Rosita, M.2 si ripete per tutto il giro e ci sono 20 ripetizioni del motivo sul giro: ci sono 11 diminuzioni in 1 ripetizione verticale di M.2 per cui in totale vengono diminuite 220 maglie, passando così da 360 a 140 maglie. Buon lavoro!

26.10.2022 - 19:24

country flag Beatrice Morrison wrote:

I’m at the Yoke, I have all ready done the 7rows in MC, but how to I go from 414 Staten down to 161 star, when there is no mention of any dec rows or how many sts to dec. Thank you in advance for you answer

04.09.2022 - 20:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Beatrice, as you can read in the pattern: "Then K 0-2-2-5-7-7 rounds with anthracite, then continue with diagram M.2 (= 18-19-20-21-23-24 repetitions on the round). When M.2 has been worked, there are 126-133-140-147-161-168 sts on needle". All decreases are included in the diagram M.2, found under the pattern. If you need more help with diagram M.2, you can check here how to read knitting diagrams: https://www.garnstudio.com/lesson.php?id=68&cid=17. Happy knitting!

04.09.2022 - 23:18

country flag Lone wrote:

Hej Jeg har strikket rib kanten og er i gang med glatstrikning ryg/forstyk Der står jeg når arbejdet måler 15 cm skal jeg starte med udtagning. Når jeg måler de 15 cm. Er det incl. rib kanten eller er det kun glatstrikning ? Vh. Lone

31.05.2022 - 15:49

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lone, Du måler de 15 cm fra starten af blusen. God fornøjelse!

02.06.2022 - 10:41