DROPS / 132 / 4

Autumn Flirt by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS tunic with short sleeves, pockets, round yoke and simple cables in ”Alpaca” and ”Kid-Silk”. Size XS to XXL

DROPS design: Pattern no Z-568
Yarn group A
Size: XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
Colour no 4434m, purple/violet mix:
250-300-300-350-400-450 g
And use: DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
Colour no 16, dark purple:
100-125-125-150-150-175 g

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) and DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm – or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st with 1 thread Alpaca and 1 thread Kid-Silk = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) and DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm - for garter st.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 2.25 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 2.25 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd

75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 3.80 £ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 3.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 3.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 36.30£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN: See diagram M.1 – diagram shows pattern from RS.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle):
1 ridge = 2 rounds: * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

Work until 3 sts remain before marker, K 2 tog, K 3 (marker is in the middle st), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

Worked in the round on circular needle.
Cast on 178-190-204-220-238-256 sts on circular needle size 4 mm with 1 thread Alpaca and 1 thread Kid-Silk. Work 10 rounds in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm and work in stocking st. Insert a marker in first st at beg of round and a marker in the 90th-96th-103rd-111th-120th-129th st – these marks the sides. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 9-10-10-11-11-12 cm, dec 1 st on each side of markers in the sides – see DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every 3 cm a total of 12 times = 130-142-156-172-190-208 sts. When piece measures 46-47-47-48-48-49 cm, switch to circular needle size 4 mm. Work 8 rounds in garter st, switch back to circular needle size 5 mm. K 1 round while at the same time inc 14-20-24-26-26-26 sts evenly (inc same no of sts on front and back piece) = 144-162-180-198-216-234 sts. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
Work next round as follows: K st with marker and K next st (these will be worked in diagram M.1 at the end of round), * P 6, diagram M.1 *, repeat from *-* the entire round (the last repeat of M.1 is worked on st with marker + the first 2 sts on the next round). When piece measures 12-12-13-13-14-14 cm, cast off 9 sts in each side (i.e. the 3 sts in diagram M.1 + the 3 P sts on each side of these). 63-72-81-90-99-108 sts remain on front and back piece. The whole piece measures approx. 60-61-62-63-64-65 cm.
Put piece aside and work the sleeves.

Cast on 54-54-63-63-72-72 sts on double pointed needles size 4 mm with 1 thread Alpaca and 1 thread Kid-Silk. Work 8 rounds in garter st. Switch to double pointed needles size 5 mm, work next round as follows: P 3, * diagram M.1, P 6 *, repeat from *-* until 6 sts remain, diagram M.1, P 3. When piece measures 4 cm, cast off the first 9 sts on round for armhole – NB: Make sure to cast off on same round in pattern as on body = 45-45-54-54-63-63 sts remain on needle. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve.

Slip sleeves on to same circular needle size 5 mm as body = 216-234-270-288-324-342 sts (= 24-26-30-32-36-38 repetitions of
* diagram M.1, P 6 *). Work 8-10-12-14-16-18 rounds with pattern as before. On next round, dec 1 st in every other P section by working the first 2 P sts tog (i.e. 12-13-15-16-18-19 sts dec). Work 5 rounds without dec. On next round, dec 1 st the same way in the remaining P sections (there are now P5 in all P sections). Repeat dec every 6th round 2 more times (there are now P4 in all P sections), dec every other time at the beg and end of P sections, then on every 4th round 2 times (there are now P3 in all P sections) and then on every other round 2 times. There are now 2 P sts in all P sections.
Work 1 round without dec, then P all 2 P sts tog into 1 P st. There are now 96-104-120-128-144-152 sts on needle.
K 1 round while at the same time dec evenly to 90-96-102-108-114-120 sts. Then K until mid back – insert a marker here. Now work an elevation in the neck. Work elevation in garter st as follows: K 8-8-9-9-10-10 sts past mid back. Turn, K 16-16-18-18-20-20 sts. Turn, K 24-24-27-27-30-30 sts. Turn, K 32-32-36-36-40-40 sts. Turn, K 40-40-45-45-50-50 sts. Turn, K 48-48-54-54-60-60 sts. Turn, K 56-56-63-63-70-70 sts. Turn, K 64-64-72-72-80-80 sts. Turn and K 1 round over all sts while at the same time dec evenly to 84-88-92-96-100-104 sts.
Switch to circular needle size 4 mm, P 1 round, K 1 round and P 1 round, then loosely cast off with K.

Worked back and forth on 2 double pointed needles.
Cast on 31-31-31-37-37-37 sts on double pointed needles size 4 mm with 1 thread Alpaca and 1 thread Kid-Silk. Work 8 rows in garter st. Switch to needle size 5 mm and work next row as follows: 2 sts in garter st, * diagram M.1, P 3 *, repeat from *-* 4-4-4-5-5-5 times, diagram M.1 and 2 sts in garter st. When piece measures 16-16-16-18-18-18 cm vertically, (adjust so that next row is from RS) switch back to needle size 4 mm. K 4 rows in garter st while at the same time on 1st row, dec 5-5-5-6-6-6 sts evenly = 26-26-26-31-31-31 sts. Cast off. Knit another pocket.

Sew the openings under the sleeves tog.
Sew on pockets (4 ridges are at the bottom). Place them so that they are approx. 11-12 cm above the cast on edge on body and so that there are approx. 12-13-14-15-16-17 cm between each pocket.


= K
= 1 YO between 2 sts, on next row K YO twisted to avoid holes
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2, psso

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 132-4) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (61)

Jessica G. 18.11.2018 - 22:04:

Ist es möglich die Drops Sky für diese Anleitung zu verwenden ohne groß umrechnen zu müssen?

DROPS Design 19.11.2018 kl. 09:13:

Liebe Jessica G., dieses Modell wird mit 2 Fäden Garngruppe A (= Alpaca und Kid-Silk) gestrickt, die können Sie durch 1 Faden Garngruppe C ersetzen (siehe hier), aber DROPS Sky gehört zur Garngruppe B und die Maschenprobe wird nicht stimmen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Ivory 26.11.2017 - 23:41:

I am incredibly interested in learning how to take my knitting one step further with this pattern, as I've only knitted scarves/hats/gloves so far.... Do I need to use Alpaca and Kid-Silk yarns, or can I use more synthetic (washing machine safe) yarns? (I'm a tad bit notorious for doing the laundry half asleep.....) Thank you in advance for your answer!

DROPS Design 27.11.2017 kl. 10:50:

Dear Ivory, we can only recommand you working our yarn, for any further questions and assistance about our yarns you are welcome to contact your DROPS store. Happy knitting!

Paula 17.01.2017 - 18:36:

I am at the point in the body where I am to begin working the diagram M.1. I am to work this until I reach 13cm. Would you please give me the instructions in a written format rather than the diagram M.1 as this is very confusing to me. I love what I have so far and don't want to mess this part up. Thank you.

DROPS Design 18.01.2017 kl. 09:27:

Dear Paula, diagram M.1 in this pattern is the same worked in the video below (the 3/2 sts between P sts). Happy knitting!

Saefi K 20.08.2016 - 10:04:

When I get to this part of the yoke pattern I'm confused "(there are now P4 in all P sections), dec every other time at the beg and end of P sections, then on every 4th round 2 times (there are now P3 in all P sections)" For one thing If I dec at the beg and end of a P section I end up with 2 P not 3P. I cannot make sense of this bit at all. :/

DROPS Design 22.08.2016 kl. 09:06:

Dear Saefi K, you have to dec P4 to P3 with 2 dec round: on first dec round dec at the beg of every other P4 section - on 2nd dec round dec at the end of remaining P4 section => there are P3 in all P sections. Repeat these dec ie dec 1 st in every other P3 section at the beg of P section then on next dec round dec 1 st in every remainingn P3 section at the end of P section => P3 are now all P2. Happy knitting!

Joly 19.05.2016 - 15:17:

Comment faire pour les trosade

DROPS Design 19.05.2016 kl. 15:37:

Bonjour Mme Joly, au 1er rang, tricotez les 3 m ainsi: Glissez 1 m à l'end, tricotez les 2 m suivantes à l'end et passez la m glissée par-dessus la m tricotée = il reste 2 m. Au 2ème rang, tricotez: 1 m end, 1 jeté, 1 m end. Aux tours 3 et 4, tricotez 3 m end. Répétez ces 4 tours. Bon tricot!

Sue Barrett 01.08.2015 - 14:11:

Can you tell me where Diagram M1is please?

DROPS Design 03.08.2015 kl. 09:19:

Dear Mrs Barrett, you will find diagram M.1 at the end of the pattern, on the right side to the measurement chart. It's a smal diagram worked over 3 sts and 4 rows. Happy knitting!

SusanT 30.11.2014 - 00:48:

In the first paragraph 'Body', the first decrease said it will be 12 times. So at the end, 48 stitches would be reduced. it equals to 4 stitches reduced for each row that i am decreasing. HOwever, there are 6 markers, so wouldn't that be 12 stitches reduced for each row that I am decreasing? Thanks for your help.

DROPS Design 01.12.2014 kl. 10:16:

Dear Susan T, you have only 2 markers, the first one at beg of round, the 2nd one in the 90th-129th st (see size, ie in 1st size marker is in the 90th st, in largest size in the 129th st) - then dec a total of 12 times 2 sts each side of both markers (2 dec x 2 markers = 4 dec a dec row x a total of 12 times every 3 cm = 48 sts dec). Happy knitting!

Lucy 15.11.2013 - 20:09:

Ich stricke gerade die Tunika und habe zur deutschen Anleitung für die Ärmel eine Frage. Wenn ich mir das Bild ansehe, müssten zunächst ein paar Krausrippen gestrickt werden. Lt. Anleitung wird nach der Maschenaufnahme direkt auf Nadel 5 gewechselt. Wenn ich die dänische Anleitung ansehe, sehe ich auch, dass Krausrippen gestrickt werden sollen. Wie viele Krausrippen sollen am Ärmel gestrickt werden? Viele Grüße Lucy

DROPS Design 17.11.2013 kl. 09:41:

Liebe Lucy, Danke für die Rückmeldung. Da hat unsere damalige Übersetzerin einen Satz vergessen. Wir haben es nun ergänzt und entschuldigen uns für die Umstände!

Gaby 31.12.2012 - 21:54:

Irgendwie komme ich mit dem Diagramm M1 nicht klar. Das soll doch über drei Maschen gehen aber die Erklärung ist; 1 re abheben, 1 re stricken und die abgehobene drüber ziehen, sind ja dann nur zwei! hab da grad echt nen Knoten im Kopf, Hilfe bitte :)

DROPS Design 02.01.2013 kl. 13:51:

Liebe Gaby, sie haben völlig Recht! Vielen Dank für den Hinweis, es ist nun korrigiert.

Ariella Vroom 12.07.2012 - 08:41:

Beste mevrouw, meneer, Ik heb een vraag over het meebreien van de mouwen met het pand op de rondbreinaald. Ik begrijp niet hoe ik twee mouwen die ik ook rond heb gebreid op één en dezelfde rondbreinaald met het rondgebreide pand kan zetten, terwijl de mouwnaad al dicht zit (namelijk rondgebreid). Kunt u mij hiermee helpen? Met vriendelijke groet, Ariell

DROPS Design 12.07.2012 kl. 10:12:

U moet de mouwen op de nld zetten zoals beschreven. Brei door volgens de beschrijving en u breit over de mouw steken de schouder. Na afloop heeft u alleen een kleine opening onder de mouwen (in de oksels) om te sluiten. Kijk eventueel op de video over raglan in ons instructiegedeelte. De delen zijn hier wel heen en weer gebreid, maar u krijgt hetzelfde effect.

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