DROPS Baby / 20 / 20

Sweet Little Cupcake by DROPS Design

Set of crochet dress and hat for baby and children in DROPS Merino Extra Fine

DROPS design: Pattern no ME-050-by + ME-052-by
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DRESS:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Finished measurements:
Bust: 46-52-58 (64-70) cm
Full length: 33-36-43 (48-53) cm

Materials: DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
150-200-200 (200-250) g colour no 16, light pink
50 g for all sizes colour no 01, off-white (for crochet borders)

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4.5 mm – or size needed to get 16 htr/dc x 14 rows of htr/18 rows of dc = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTON no 521: 2 pcs.
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HAT:
Size: 1/3 months – 6/18 months (2/4) years
Head circumference: 40/42 – 44/48 (48/52) cm

Materials: DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
100 g for all sizes colour no 16, light pink
50 g for all sizes colour no 01, off-white (for borders)

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4.5 mm – or size needed to get 16 htr x 14 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 3.10 £ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
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DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 3.10 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.50£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
DRESS:

CROCHET INFO:
Replace first htr on row with 2 ch and first dc on row with 1 ch. Finish each row with htr with 1 htr in 2nd ch from beg of previous row and finish each row with dc with 1 dc in first ch from beg of previous row.
DECREASING TIP-1:
Dec 1 htr by crochet 2 htr tog, i.e. crochet 1 htr but wait with the last YO and pull-through (= 3 sts on hook), crochet 1 htr in next st and pull the last YO through all 5 sts on hook.
DECREASING TIP-2 (applies to armhole and neck):
Dec as follows at beg of row: replace 1 dc with 1 sl st.
Dec as follows at the end of row: Turn piece when number of dc to be dec remain and work return row.
CROCHET DC TOG (applies to pompom):
Crochet 2 dc tog to 1 dc as follows: Insert hook in first st, pull thread through, insert hook in next st, pull thread though, make 1 YO and pull thread through all 3 sts on hook.
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DRESS
Worked back and forth in 2 pieces.

FRONT PIECE:
Crochet 68-74-81 (89-95) ch (includes 2 ch to turn with) with crochet hook size 4.5 mm and light pink.
ROW 1: See CROCHET INFO – crochet 1 htr in 3rd ch from hook, 1 htr in each of the next 3 ch, * skip 1 ch, 1 htr in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-* until 2-3-5 (3-4) ch remain, skip 1 ch and finish with 1 htr in each of the last 1-2-4 (2-3) ch = 54-59-65 (71-76) htr.
Continue with 1 htr in each htr – REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
When piece measures 3 cm dec 1 htr each side – See DECREASING TIP-1 - and repeat the dec each side on every 2-2.5-3 (3-3.5) cm a total of 9-9-9 (10-10) times = 36-41-47 (51-56) htr on row. When piece measures 22-24-30 (33-37) cm (dec are now complete) crochet 2 rows with dc (crochet 1 dc in each st).
CROCHET NEXT ROW AS FOLLOWS: Crochet 2-1-1 (2-1) dc, * 2 ch, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 dc in last dc (= eyelet row for ribbon).
Continue with 1 dc in each st (on the row after eyelet row work 1 dc in each dc and 2 dc in each ch-loop) = 36-41-47 (51-56) dc on row. When piece measures 24-26-32 (36-40) cm dec 3-4-5 (5-6) dc each side for armhole – See DECREASING TIP-2 – and dec each side on every row as follows: 2 dc 1-1-1 (2-2) times and 1 dc 2 times = 22-25-29 (29-32) dc. When piece measures 29-31-38 (42-47) cm insert a marker mid piece (in SIZE 6/9 MONTHS, 12/18 MONTHS and 2 YEARS insert maker in the middle dc on row). Now dec for neck as follows: Crochet from shoulder towards neck until 4-4-5 (5-7) dc remain before marker (for SIZE 6/9 MONTHS, 12/18 MONTHS and 2 YEARS this is BEFORE dc with marker). Turn piece. Dec for neck on every row from mid front: 2 dc 1 time and 1 dc 1 time = 4-5-6 (6-6) dc left on shoulder. When 3 rows remain before finished measurements make buttonholes on shoulder as follows: crochet 1-1-2 (2-2) dc, 2 ch, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in each of the last 1-2-2 (2-2) sts.
Work 2 rows dc (crochet 1 dc in each dc and 2 dc in each ch-loop from previous row) = 4-5-6 (6-6) dc. Cut and fasten thread, piece measures approx 33-36-43 (48-53) cm. Repeat on the other side of neck.

BACK PIECE:
Beg as described for front piece and dec for armhole as described for front piece = 22-25-29 (29-32) dc. When piece measures approx 31-34-41 (46-51) cm insert a marker mid piece (in SIZE 6/9 MONTHS, 12/18 MONTHS and 2 YEARS insert the marker in the middle dc on row). Now dec for neck as follows: Crochet from shoulder towards neck until 5-5-6 (6-8) dc remain before marker (for SIZE 6/9 MONTHS, 12/18 MONTHS and 2 YEARS this is BEFORE dc with marker). Turn piece. Dec 1 dc at the beg of the next 2 rows from mid front = 4-5-6 (6-6) dc left on shoulder. When piece measures 33-36-43 (48-53) cm insert a marker = mid shoulder. Crochet 3 rows dc for button band, cut and fasten thread. Repeat on the other side of neck.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew side seams edge to edge with neat sts. Sew on buttons to back piece in line with marker on shoulder.

CROCHET BORDER:
Crochet a border round armholes, along shoulder and round neckline in one with crochet hook size 4 mm and off-white as follows – beg at the side: 1 dc in first st, * 2 ch, skip approx 2 dc/2 rows, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* and finish with 2 ch and 1 sl st in first dc.
Crochet a border along bottom edge of dress with crochet hook size 4.5 mm and off-white as follows – beg at the side: 1 dc in first st, * 3 ch, 1 tr in first ch, skip approx 1.5 cm, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in first dc.

TIE RIBBON WITH FLAT POMPOMS:
Crochet 1 pompom as follows: Crochet 4 ch with crochet hook size 4.5 mm and off-white and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
NOTE: replace first dc at beg of round with 1 ch and finish each round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round.
ROUND 1: Crochet 4 dc in ring.
ROUND 2: Crochet 2 dc in each dc = 8 dc.
ROUND 3: * 1 dc in first dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* = 12 dc.
ROUND 4-5: Crochet 1 dc in each dc = 12 dc.
ROUND 6: * 1 dc in first dc, then crochet the next 2 dc tog – SEE ABOVE *, repeat from *-* = 8 dc.
ROW 7: Place piece flat and crochet 1 dc in each dc through both layers = 4 dc.
ROW 8: Crochet 2 dc tog 2 times = 2 dc.
Crochet another pompom. Crochet 1 sl st in the middle of pompom where the 2 layers are crochet tog and now crochet a string of ch measuring approx 75-80-85 (95-100) cm. Thread string through eyelet row on dress (beg and finish mid front) and attach string to the other pompom with a sl st in the middle. Cut and fasten thread.
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HAT:

CROCHET INFO-1:
Replace first htr on row with 2 ch. Finish each row with 1 htr in 2nd ch from beg of previous row.

CROCHET INFO-2:
Replace first htr at beg of round with 2 ch. Finish each round with 1 sl st in 2nd ch from beg of round.

INCREASING TIP:
Inc 1 htr by working 2 htr in the last but one htr.

CROCHET 2 HTR TOG:
Dec 1 htr by crochet 2 htr tog, i.e. crochet 1 htr but wait with the last YO and pull through (= 3 sts on hook), crochet 1 htr in next st and when doing the last pull-through pull thread through all 5 sts on hook.

CROCHET 2 DC TOG:
Crochet 2 dc tog to 1 dc as follows: Insert hook in the first st, pull thread though, insert hook in next st, pull thread through, make 1 YO and pull thread through all 3 sts on hook. ---------------------------------------------------------
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EAR FLAP:
Crochet 5 ch with crochet hook size 4.5 mm with light pink. Crochet 1 htr in 3rd ch from hook, 1 htr in the next 2 ch = 4 htr, turn piece. See CROCHET INFO-1. Crochet 1htr in each htr, AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 htr each side – See INCREASING TIP! Repeat the inc each side on every row a total of 6-7 (8) times = 16-18 (20) htr. Continue with 1 htr in each htr until ear flap measures 6-7 (8) cm. Put piece aside and crochet 1 more ear flap.

HAT:
See CROCHET INFO-2! Crochet 7-8 (9) ch, crochet 1 htr in each htr on one ear flap, crochet 18-20 (22) ch (= mid front), crochet 1 htr in each htr on the other ear flap, crochet 7-8 (9) ch and finish with 1 sl st in first ch = 64-72 (80) htr. Continue with 1 htr in each htr in the round.
When piece measures 8-10 (11) cm from mid back crochet next round with dec as follows:
* 1 htr in each of the first 6 htr, then crochet the next 2 htr tog – SEE ABOVE *, repeat from *-* (= 8-9-10 htr dec on round).
Crochet 1 round without dec and then next round like this:
* 1 htr in each of the first 5 htr, then crochet the next 2 htr tog, repeat from *-* around.
Repeat the dec (with 1 less htr between 2 htr tog for each dec round) on every other round 3 more times = 24-27 (30) htr on round.
Crochet 2-2 (3) rounds without dec.
Crochet next round as follows: * 1 htr in first htr, then crochet the next 2 htr tog *, repeat from *-* = 16-18 (20) htr on round.
On next round crochet 2 htr tog all the way round = 8-9 (10) htr left on round. Cut the thread, pull it through remaining sts, tighten and fasten. Hat measures approx 17-19 (21) cm from the top.

CROCHET BORDER:
Crochet a border with crochet hook size 4.5 mm with off-white round the opening as follows: * 1 dc in first st, 1 ch, skip 1 st/row *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in first dc.

STRING WITH POMPOM:
Beg with pompom: Crochet 4 ch with crochet hook size 4.5 mm with off-white and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
NOTE: replace first dc on round with 1 ch and finish each round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round.
ROUND 1: Crochet 4 dc in ring.
ROUND 2: Crochet 2 dc in each dc = 8 dc.
ROUND 3: * 1 dc in first dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* = 12 dc.
ROUND 4-5: Crochet 1 dc in each dc = 12 dc.
ROUND 6: * 1 dc in first dc, the crochet the next 2 dc tog – SEE ABOVE *, repeat from *-* = 8 dc.
ROW 7: Place piece flat and crochet 1 dc in each dc through both layers = 4 dc.
ROW 8: Crochet 2 dc tog 2 times = 2 dc.
Crochet 22-26 (30) cm with ch for string and fasten with 1 sl st at the point of one ear flap.
Repeat on den other side.

LACE BORDERS:
Crochet approx 7 rounds with lace borders round the hat. Beg in the second round from the top and crochet 1 round as follows: 1 dc in first st, * 3 ch, 1 tr in first ch, skip approx 1.5 cm, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* all the way round and finish with 1 sl st in first dc. Cut and fasten thread. Now crochet a further 6 rounds in the same way with approx 2-2.5 cm between each round.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 27.01.2011
HAT:..Repeat this dec (with 1 less htr between 2 htr tog for each dec round) on every other round a total of 5 times = 24-27 (30) htr on round.
Crochet 2-2 (3) rounds without dec.
Crochet next round as follows: * 1 htr in first htr, then crochet the next 2 htr tog *, repeat from *-* = 16-18 (20) htr on round.

Diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 20-20) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (21)

Sabine 16.06.2019 - 22:52:

Liebes Drops-Team, zur Mütze habe ich eine Frage: "Mit H-Stb weiterfahren bis die Arbeit 8-10 (11) cm misst." Bezieht sich diese Angabe ab Ohrklappenspitze oder ab eigentlichen Mützenbeginn? Gleiches gilt für die abschließende Gesamtlänge "Die Arbeit misst ca. 17-19 (21) cm." Dank vorab! :-)

DROPS Design 17.06.2019 kl. 08:46:

Liebe Sabine, diese 8-10(11) cm werden ab Mützenbeginn (messen Sie hinten an den Rücken) gemessen, dh nicht vom Ohrenklappenspitze. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Maria Andersen 17.01.2019 - 19:29:

På bildet ser det ut som at det fremdeles er halvstaver over hullraden, men i oppskriften står det fastmasker. Hva er riktig?

DROPS Design 21.01.2019 kl. 11:18:

Hei Maria. Det hekles fastmasker etter hullraden. Om du zoomer inn på bildet kan du også se det der. God fornøyelse

Inga 12.09.2018 - 19:39:

Danke für die schnelle Antwort. Allerdings verstehe ich noch immer nicht, was ich mit den Maschen machen soll. Soll ich jeweils zwei Maschen am Anfang und Ende der Runde abnehmen, also zusammenhäkeln? Insgesamt müssen ja 18 Maschen abgenommen werden um auf 29 zu kommen? Es tut mir leid, aber ich verstehe diesen Punkt der Anleitung einfach nicht. 2fm 1 Mal und 1fm 2 Mal ist doch das gleiche?

DROPS Design 13.09.2018 kl. 08:29:

Liebe Inga, Abnahmen werden wie unter TIPP ZUM ABNEHMEN-2 (Armloch und Hals) gehäkelt, dieses Video zeigt wie man diese Maschen am Anfang und Ende der selben Reihe abnimmt. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Inga 12.09.2018 - 12:19:

Hallo, ich habe eine kurze Frage zur Anleitung. Ich bin gerade beim Vorderteil. Ich habe die Lochkante gehäkelt und das Kleid misst jetzt 32 cm und 47 Maschen. Abgenommen wurde auch schon. Als nächstes kommt: 2 fM 1-1-1 (2-2) Mal und 1 fM 2 Mal = 22-25-29 (29-32) fM. Wie ist das gemeint? Nehme ich 1 Masche ab und dann wieder zwei normal häkeln? Es wäre sehr nett, wenn ihr mir da helfen könntet. Vielen Dank, Inga

DROPS Design 12.09.2018 kl. 12:55:

Liebe Inga, zuerst nehmen Sie 5 Maschen (in der 3. Größe) auf beiden Seiten ab - siehe ABNAHME-TIPP-2 dann nehmen Sie auf beiden Seiten (= am Anfang + Am Ende nächste Hinreihe) 2 Maschen 1 x und dann nehmen Sie 1 M 2 Mal = am Anfang und am Ende jeder beiden nächsten Hinreihe = es sind jetst 29 M übrig. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Marie 05.05.2018 - 11:24:

Hei! Jeg forstår ikke hvordan dette "Videre felles det i hver side på hver rad slik: 2 fm 1-1-1 (2-2) ganger og 1 fm 2 ganger = 22-25-29 (29-32) fm." skal gjøres? Har noen tips?

DROPS Design 09.05.2018 kl. 12:45:

Hei Marie. Det skal felles 2 fm i hver ende av pinnen, og avhengig av hvilken størrelse du strikker skal dette gjøres 1 eller 2 ganger. Dvs: om du strikker en av de 3 minste størrelsene feller du 2 masker på begynnelsen av pinnen og 2 masker på slutten av pinnen = 4 masker felt. Om du strikker en av de 2 største størrelsene gjentar du denne fellingen en gang til = totalt 8 masker felt. Videre skal du felle 1 maske på begynnelsen og 1 maske på splutten av de neste 2 pinnene = 4 masker felt over 2 omganger. God fornøyelse.

Giuseppina 12.09.2016 - 15:07:

Danke. Dann ist die Passage "Zusammennähen" nicht korrekt.

DROPS Design 13.09.2016 kl. 08:46:

Liebe Giuseppina, das Zusammennähen wurde korrigiert, vielen Dank!

Giuseppina 11.09.2016 - 22:30:

Hallo zusammen! ich hab eine Frage bezüglich dieser Passage: ZUSAMMENNÄHEN: Die Schulternaht zusammennähen. Die Knöpfe annähen. Sollen die Knöpfe nur als Deko dienen? Oder sollte da evtl. stehen "Die Seitennähte zusammennähen.?" Besten Dank für die Hilfe! Giuseppina

DROPS Design 12.09.2016 kl. 09:56:

Liebe Giuseppina, die Knöpfe sollen auf dem Rückenteil aufgenäht, den Knopflöchern von dem Vorderteil gegenüber.

Sabrina 04.09.2016 - 23:42:

Hallo, das Kleidchen ist wirklich süß! Allerdings stimmt in den Größenangaben etwas nicht, 74/88 soll bestimmt 74/80 heißen oder? LG Sabrina

DROPS Design 09.09.2016 kl. 11:07:

Liebe Sabrina, das ist ja korrekt, Anleitung wurde korrigiert. Herzlichen Dank!

Monique 05.11.2015 - 22:05:

Ja, ich habe das Original-Garn Drops Merino Extra Fine genommen. Mit der 4,5er Häkelnadel bin ich jetzt auf 17 Maschen auf 10cm gekommen. Ich werde einfach eine 5er nehmen und dann klappt es sicher :-) Danke für die Hilfe.

DROPS Design 07.11.2015 kl. 12:16:

Ja, es hört sich so an, dass Sie mit einer 5-er Nadel die richtige Maschenprobe erhalten müssten. Gutes Gelingen und viel Spaß beim Häkeln!

Monique 17.10.2015 - 21:54:

Hallo :-) Ich komme mit der Maschenprobe für das Kleidchen nicht zurecht. Ich möchte das Kleid für die Größe 74/80 machen. Mit einer 5er-Häkelnadel komme ich nach 2 Reihen H-Stb nicht auf 41cm, sondern nur auf 34cm. Mit einer 6er-Nadel sind es 37,5cm. Muss ich eine 7er-Nadel nehmen, wenn doch 4,5 angegeben ist. Ich häkel auch weder zu straff noch zu locker. Haben Sie eine Idee, was ich falsch mache bzw. was ich anders machen sollte? Vielen herzlichen Dank. Monique

DROPS Design 29.10.2015 kl. 14:27:

Haben Sie denn ein passendes Garn verwendet? Halten Sie sich an die angegebene Maschenprobe, die oben unter dem Material genannt ist, 10 cm in der Breite müssten Sie mit 16 H-Stb erreichen. Schlagen Sie hierfür mindestens 20 Luft-M an und häkeln Sie Halb-Stb, dann messen Sie in der Mitte aus, wie viele Sie auf 10 cm benötigen und passen ggf. die Nadelstärke an. Wichtig ist, dass Sie entweder das Originalgarn oder ein Garn ähnlicher Stärke verwenden, dann sollte es mit der Maschenprobe klappen.

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