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  1. Free patterns
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  4. DROPS Baby
  5. 20
  6. 17

Sophie by the Sea by DROPS Design

Crochet jacket with pockets for baby and children in DROPS Merino Extra Fine

Keywords: bottom up, collar, jacket, long sleeves, pocket, seamless sleeves, set, slippers, v-neck

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DROPS Baby 20-17
JACKET:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size in cm: 50/56- 62/68- 74/88 (86/92-98/104)

Materials: DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
200-200-200 (250-250) g colour no 01, off-white
50 g for all sizes in colour no 16, light pink (for crochet borders).

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4.5 mm – or size needed to get 16 htr x 14 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTON no 521: 3 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Wool 		from 3.35 £ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 3.35 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 3.35 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.75£. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
JACKET:

CROCHET INFO:
Replace first htr on row with 2 ch. Finish each row with 1 htr in 2nd ch from beg of previous row.

INCREASING TIP (applies to sleeves):
Inc for sleeve at the end of every row as follows: crochet the same number of ch as htr to be inc, turn piece and crochet 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook (= 2 dc at beg of row = 1 ch + 1 dc), then crochet 1 htr in each of the remaining ch. Continue as before.
At the end of next row towards the side crochet 1 dc in the last htr before inc for sleeve. Do this to make line under armhole more even.

DECREASING TIP (applies to sleeves):
Dec at the beg of every row from the side as follows: replace the number of htr to be dec minus 1 htr with 1 sl st in each htr, 1 ch, skip the last htr to be dec and continue as before. Do this to make line under armhole even.

BUTTONHOLES:
Make buttonholes on right front band.
1 BUTTONHOLE = replace 2nd htr from mid front with 1 ch. On next row crochet 1 htr in the ch.
Make buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE 1/3 MONTHS: 8, 12 and 16 cm.
SIZE 6/9 MONTHS: 9, 13 and 17 cm.
SIZE 12/18 MONTHS: 10, 15 and 20 cm.
SIZE 2 YEARS: 11, 16 and 21 cm.
SIZE 3/4 YEARS: 11, 17 and 23 cm.
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JACKET:
Crochet front pieces first, then inc for sleeves, slip front pieces tog, dec for sleeves and continue on back piece from neckline down.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
See CROCHET INFO! Crochet 29-31-35 (38-41) ch (includes 2 ch to turn with) with crochet hook size 4.5 mm and off-white. Crochet first row as follows from mid front: 1 htr in 3rd ch from hook, 1 htr in each of the next 3 ch, * skip 1 ch, 1 htr in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-* until 3-5-4 (2-5) ch remain, skip 1 ch, crochet 1 htr in each of the remaining 2-4-3 (1-4) ch = 23-25-28 (30-33) htr on row, turn piece. Continue with 1 htr in each htr. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION. Remember buttonholes on front band – SEE ABOVE.
When piece measures 15-16-18 (19-21) cm inc for sleeve at the end of every row towards the side – See INCREASING TIP:
5 htr 2-2-3 (3-4) times and then 18-20-17 (25-25) htr 1 time = 51-55-60 (70-78) htr on row for shoulder/sleeve.
Continue with 1 htr in each htr.
When piece measures 26-28-31 (33-36) cm insert a marker 10-11-12 (13-13) htr from mid front – NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! On next row do NOT crochet on the 10-11-12 (13-13) htr towards mid front, but 1 htr in each of the remaining 41-44-48 (57-65) htr, AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 htr by marker by crochet 2 htr in the outermost htr by marker. There are now 42-45-49 (58-66) htr on row. Put piece aside.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Like right front piece, but mirrored – NOTE! do not make buttonholes on front band.

BACK PIECE:
Crochet htr on the 42-45-49 (58-66) htr on left front piece (sleeve/shoulder), crochet 12-14-16 (18-18) ch (= neckline back piece) and crochet htr on the 42-45-49 (58-66) htr on right front piece = 96-104-114 (134-150) htr. Continue with 1 htr in each htr until piece measures 7-7.5-7.5 (8-8) cm.
Now dec sleeve sts each side at the beg of every row as follows – See DECREASING TIP: 18-20-17 (25-25) htr 1 time and then 5 htr 2-2-3 (3-4) times = 40-44-50 (54-60) htr on row.
Continue with htr.
Finish when back piece measures 26-28-31 (33-36) cm – fold piece double by marker on shoulder and measure to front pieces.

NECKLINE:
Crochet 2 rows with htr back and forth on the 34-38-42 (46-46) htr round neck with crochet hook size 4.5 mm and off-white.

POCKETS:
Crochet 5-6-7 (8-9) ch (includes 2 ch to turn with) with crochet hook size 4.5 mm and off-white. Crochet 1 htr in 3rd ch from hook, 1 htr in each of the next 2-3-4 (5-6) ch = 4-5-6 (7-8) htr. Turn piece. Continue with 1 htr in each htr, AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 htr each side by working 2 htr in the outermost htr each side. Repeat the inc each side on every row a total of 3 times = 10-11-12 (13-14) htr. Continue with htr until pocket measures approx 5-5-6 (7-7) cm. Cut and fasten thread. Now crochet a border round the whole pocket with crochet hook size 4.5 mm and light pink as follows – beg in top right hand corner: 1 dc in first st, * 3 ch, 1 tr in first ch, skip approx 1.5 cm, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* along the upper edge of pocket (= approx 4-4-5 (5-6) loops), then continue as follows round the rest of pocket: * 1 ch, skip 1 row/1 htr, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 ch and 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round. Crochet 1 more pocket in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew sleeve and side seams, edge to edge with neat sts – make sure to have an even seam under sleeves. Sew buttons to left front band. Sew a pocket to each front piece approx 3-3-4 (5-6) cm from bottom edge and approx 5-5-6 (6-7) cm from mid front.

CROCHET BORDER:
Crochet a border along both front bands and collar with crochet hook size 4.5 mm with light pink – beg at bottom of right front piece: 1 dc in first st,* 1 ch, skip 1 row, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* up to 1 cm past the top buttonhole, now continue as follows round collar: * 3 ch, 1 tr in first ch, skip approx 1.5 cm, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* round collar down to 1 cm before the top button, and now continue as follows along left front band: * 1 ch, skip 1 row, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* and finish at bottom of left front piece.

Crochet a border round both sleeve edges with crochet hook size 4.5 mm with light pink as follows: 1 dc in first st, * 1 ch, skip 1 row, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 ch and 1 sl st in first dc.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 20.01.2012
RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
....
When piece measures 15-16-18 (19-21) cm inc for sleeve at the end of every row towards the side – See INCREASING TIP:
5 htr 2-2-3 (3-4) times and then 18-20-17 (25-25) htr 1 time = 51-55-60 (70-78) htr on row for shoulder/sleeve.


BACK PIECE:
....
Now dec sleeve sts each side at the beg of every row as follows – See DECREASING TIP: 18-20-17 (25-25) htr 1 time and then 5 htr 2-2-3 (3-4) times = 40-44-50 (54-60) htr on row.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 20-17) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (42)

country flag Annie wrote:

Jeg klarer ikke å forstå helt økningen på forsidene for å få til plass til ermene. Man går nemlig fra 25 til 55 hdc. Er det en video man kan se på?

15.03.2023 - 18:59

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Annie, har du læst ØKETIPS (gjelder ermene): Det økes til erme på slutten av hver rad mot siden slik: hekle like mange lm som det ant halvst som skal økes, snu arb, hekle 1 fm i 2.lm fra nåla (det er nå 2 fm på beg av raden = 1 lm + 1 fm), hekle 1 halvst i hver av de resterende lm før det hekles videre som før. På slutten av neste rad mot siden hekles det 1 fm i siste halvst før det økes ut til erme. Dette gjøres for å unngå en svært hakkete linje under ermet.

17.03.2023 kl. 08:36

country flag Kia Andersson wrote:

Hej, tänkte använda mig av detta mönster till en Tomtefar i stl 9 mån-1år, men vill inte ha kragen. Kan man virka något extra varv på halskanten utan att det ser konstigt ut? Har aldrig virkat en kofta. Tacksam för svar. Mvh Kia

29.06.2021 - 13:44

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Kia, det går helt fint at ændre mønsteret når du kommer op til kragen. Vi har desværre ikke mulighed for at skrive opskriften om :)

30.06.2021 kl. 14:45

country flag Evelin wrote:

Ang. framstyckena. Det står virka tills arb mäter 36cm sätt en markör 13 halvst in. På nästa varv virkas det inte över de 13 halvst. Jag förstår inte hur jag ska göra här. Ska jag dra upp de 13 halvst och börja på nästa varv därifrån, ska jag virka varvet ut och klippa av tråden för att kunna börja på nästa varv 13 halvst in? Hur ska jag göra?

24.03.2019 - 16:04

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Evelin. Om du tilpasser at raden du hekler etter å ha satt merketråden er en rad fra vrangsiden så kan du hekle frem til det gjenstår 13 halvstaver (mot midt foran), og så snu arbeidet og hekle tilbake. God fornøyelse

02.04.2019 kl. 09:30

country flag Franzi wrote:

Ich habe Probleme mit den Ärmeln. Wie genau werden die denn gehäkelt? Ich habe 23 Maschen. Nehme ich dann auf einmal 5 HbSt auf? Was bedeutet 2-2-3 (3-4) dann dahinter? Und wie komme ich auf die Maschenzahl von 51-55-60 (70-78), wenn ich doch nur 18-20-17 (25-25) H-Stb aufnehme? Ich freue mich, wenn mir jemand helfen kann! Liebe Grüße und vielen Dank

03.09.2018 - 07:07

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Franzi, nach 15 cm schlagen Sie auf der Seite (= Ärmel) in jeder Reihe 5 H-Stb 2 x und 18 H-Stb 1 x: 23 + 5 +- 5 + 18 = 51 H-Stb. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

03.09.2018 kl. 15:29

country flag Merete wrote:

Lurer på fellingen på bakstykket. Jeg forstår hvordan jeg skal gjøre det på begynnelsen av første rad med felling, og hekler halvstaver videre. Men når jeg er ferdig å hekle halvstaver, skal jeg da fortsette med kjedemasker ut raden på samme måte som jeg gjorde på begynnelsen av raden? Eller skal jeg bare snu med en gang jeg er ferdig med halvstavene? Da vil det vel ikke bli likt på begge sidene, for kjedemaskene bygger vel også noen millimeter ut...

06.03.2018 - 11:04

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Merete, de masker du skal felle sidst på pinden, lader du bare være og snuer uden at hækle kædemasker. God fornøjelse!

13.03.2018 kl. 16:01

country flag Caroline wrote:

Tusen tack för snabbt svar! Så långt har jag förstått med åldrarna men vad menas med det sista "5 halvst 2-2-3 (3-4) ggr och sedan 18-20-17 (25-25) halvst 1 gång = 51-55-60 (70-78) ", hur kan det bli 55?

25.10.2016 - 14:37

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Caroline. Du har 25 halv st og tager ud i siden som fölger: 2 ganger 5 halv st (+10) og 1 gang 20 halv st = 25+10+20 = saa har du 55 halv st i alt paa omg

25.10.2016 kl. 14:47

country flag Caroline wrote:

Vad betyder siffrorna inom parentes: "När arb mäter 15-16-18 (19-21) cm läggs det upp nya halvst till ärm, lägg upp i slutet på varje varv mot sidan – LÄS ÖKNINGSTIPS: 5 halvst 2-2-3 (3-4) ggr och sedan 18-20-17 (25-25) halvst 1 gång = 51-55-60 (70-78) halvst på varvet till axel/ärm ". Får det inte till att bli 55 halvst? Mvh, Caroline

25.10.2016 - 12:59

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Caroline. Alle tallene henviser til hvilken störrelse du laver. Du har str 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 mnd (2 - 3/4) år og det er saa lig 2-2-3 (3-4) ggr

25.10.2016 kl. 14:31

country flag Marie wrote:

Lurer litt på halskanten til jakken. Det står at det skal strikken to rader med halvstaver rundt, altså første runde blir 34 halvstaver. Snur du og går enda en runde rundt? På bilde ser det nesten ut som de har heklet to "trekanter". Har dere et mer utfyllende forklaring?

17.09.2015 - 20:08

DROPS Design answered:

Hej igen Marie, Ja det stemmer du hækler en hel række om til den anden side af halsen, snur og hækler tilbage hele rækken ud. God fornøjelse!

18.09.2015 kl. 15:00

country flag Marie wrote:

Lurer litt på halskanten til jakken. Det står at det skal strikken to rader med halvstaver rundt, altså første runde blir 34 halvstaver. Snur du og går enda en runde rundt? På bilde ser det nesten ut som de har heklet to "trekanter". Har dere et mer utfyllende forklaring?

17.09.2015 - 06:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Marie, Hæklekanten står beskrevet nederst i opskriften: Videre fortsettes det slik rundt kragen: * 3 lm, 1 st i 1.lm, hopp over ca 1,5 cm, 1 fm i neste m *, gjenta fra *-* rundt hele kragen og stopp 1 cm over øverste knapp

17.09.2015 kl. 09:46

country flag Birgit wrote:

Merci pour votre réponse. Avez vous une astuce pour que l'assemblage des manches soit le plus régulier possible, avec les augmentations, nous avons des "escaliers" comment faire pour que ceux ci n'apparaissent pas lors de la couture. Merci. Belle fin de journée Birgit

26.02.2015 - 18:04

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Birgit, vous pouvez épingler les 2 pièces pour bien les positionner avant de les coudre. Bon assemblage!

27.02.2015 kl. 09:13

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