A Kiss For Midwinter by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS jacket in ”Nepal”. Size XS to XXXL.

DROPS 121-33
DROPS design: Pattern no NE-008
Size: XS/S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS NEPAL
550-650-700-750-800-900 g colour no 6314, denim blue

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4.5 mm - or size needed to get 12 tr x 7 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS SHELL BUTTON w/hole no 526, 6-6-6-6-7-7 pcs..


Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.30 £ /50g
DROPS Nepal uni colour DROPS Nepal uni colour 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Nepal mix DROPS Nepal mix 2.40 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 25.30£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO: Replace first tr on each round/row with 3 ch.
Finish each round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round/beg of previous row.
PATTERN: See diagram M.1 and M.2. Diagram shows the pattern from RS.
DECREASING TIP: Work 1 tr, but wait with last pull-through (= 2 sts on hook), work next tr, but when doing the last pull-through pull thread through all sts on hook – 1 dec tr.

Worked from top down, back and forth from mid front. Work 91-99-107-115-123-131 ch (includes 3 ch to turn with) with crochet hook size 4.5 mm and Nepal. Work next row as follows:
1 tr in 4th ch, * skip 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 3 ch *, repeat from *-*, skip 1 ch and finish with 1 tr in the last 2 ch = 67-73-79-85-91-97 tr – see CROCHET INFO. Now work 10 rows acc to M.1 (5 tr each side = front band, work 1 tr in each tr – not included in diagram). After M.1 there are 162-178-194-210-226-242 tr on row. Continue with 1 tr in each tr. When piece measures 16-17-18-19-20-21 cm continue as follows: 5 tr on front band, 1-0-2-1-0-2 tr, repeat M.2 until 6-5-7-6-5-7 tr remain, finish with 1-0-2-1-0-2 tr and 5 tr on front band. Continue with 1 tr in each tr until piece measures 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm. Work next row as follows: 24-27-30-33-36-40 tr (front piece), 8 ch (under sleeve/armhole), skip 38-40-42-44-46-46 tr from previous round (to be used later for sleeve), 38-44-50-56-62-70 tr (back piece), 8 ch (under sleeve/armhole), skip 38-40-42-44-46-46 tr from previous row (to be used later for sleeve) and 24-27-30-33-36-40 tr (front piece). Continue with 1 tr in each tr/ch = 102-114-126-138-150-166 tr. Insert a marker in the middle of the 8 ch under sleeve each side (back piece = 46-52-58-64-70-78 tr, front piece = 28-31-34-37-40-44 tr). Continue with 1 tr in each tr. When piece measures 34-36-38-40-42-44 cm dec 8 sts evenly (do not dec on front band) - see DECREASING TIP = 94-106-118-130-142-158 tr. When piece measures 40-42-44-46-48-50 cm inc 12-12-12-12-12-14 tr evenly (do not inc on front band) = 106-118-130-142-154-172 tr. When piece measures 43-45-47-49-51-53 cm continue as follows: 5 tr on front band, repeat M.2, finish with 5 tr on front band. Continue with 1 tr in each tr until piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm, cut and fasten thread.

Worked from top down. Beg mid under sleeve as follows: 1 dc in the 5th of the 8 ch under sleeve/on armhole. Work 3 ch (= 1 tr) and continue with 1 tr in each ch. NOTE: Before continuing over armhole work 1 tr in transition (to avoid a hole). Continue with 1 tr in each tr over armhole, work 1 tr in transition and work 1 tr in each of the remaining ch under sleeve = 48-50-52-54-56-56 tr. Insert a marker mid under sleeve. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Work 1 tr in each tr. When piece measures 4 cm dec 1 tr each side of marker, see DECREASING TIP, and repeat the dec on every 4.5-4.5-4-4-4-4 cm, a total of 8-8-9-9-9-9 times = 32-34-34-36-38-38 tr. Cut and fasten thread when sleeve measures 45-45-44-44-43-43 cm – NOTE – less for the larger sizes because of wider neck and shoulder.
Sew buttons on left front piece – place the top one 1 cm from neckline, then the remaining with approx 8 cm between each. Use gap between 2 tr on front band as buttonhole.


symbols = 1 tr in tr
symbols = 1 tr in ch-loop
symbols = ch
symbols = 2 tr in the same tr

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 121-33) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (130)

country flag ANGELA wrote:

Cuando se dice "trabajar 10 filas según M.1 (5 puntos altos a cada lado= la cenefa), qué quiere decir?. Otra pregunta es si M.1 se repite a lo largo de toda la labor o sólo se hace en el inicio y el final con 5 puntos altos a cada lado y el resto se rellena con puntos altos.

07.10.2022 - 14:42

DROPS Design answered:

Hola ANGELA, tienes que trabajar al principio y final de la fila 5 puntos altos (es decir, 5 puntos altos a cada lado). En el resto de la fila, trabajas repeticiones de M.1. Por ejemplo, para la talla S, trabajas 5 puntos altos para la cenefa, repites M.1 19 veces y trabajas 5 puntos altos para la cenefa.

09.10.2022 kl. 19:10

country flag Ángela wrote:

No puedo ver los diagramas. Podrían volver a cargarlos?. Gracias

04.09.2022 - 11:16

country flag Caroline wrote:

Can you please clarify the instructions after M1 is completed and the piece sized to that being constructed? The string of 1-0-2-1-0-2... are the zeros skipped stitches? Also, is M2 read from bottom up, then right to left, left to right, right to left? Please clarify. Thank you.

13.02.2021 - 12:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Caroline, in the string of numbers zero (0) means that in that given size, you do not have to add any stitches after finishing the diagram's pattern. And yes, since this piece is done back-and forth, the diagrams show every row from the RS, thus should be read from right to left, left to right, right to left etc. Happy Crafting!

13.02.2021 kl. 21:19

country flag Caroline wrote:

Body piece: instructions after M.1 when piece measures “x by y” It states “continue as follows: 5 dc on front band, 1-0-2-0-1-0-2 dc. Does this mean you work these stitches once 1dc, skip 1 dc, 2dc, skip 1dc, 1dc, skip 1dc then 2dc followed by M2 read right to left across the row finishing the row as it was started? I’m lost from this point to next piece measurement instructions. Please help.

12.02.2021 - 12:05

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Caroline, you should work as follows: 5 dc on front band, then depending on the size you are working, now crochet either 1 dc in first and 5th size, or 0 dc in 2nd, 4th and 5th size or 2 dc in 3rd and 6th size, then crochet M.2 (read first row from the right towards the left) until 6-5-7-6-5-7 sts remain before the end of row and end with 1 dc in each of the remaining stitches (including the 5 front band sts). Happy crocheting!

12.02.2021 kl. 13:53

country flag Giraja wrote:

In het telpatroon 121-33 staat aangegeven l = 1 stokje om de l-lus. Ik heb in de instructiefilms geen voorbeeld kunnen vinden. Zou u mij kunnen uitleggen wat hiermee bedoeld wordt en kan de voorbies ook achteraf gehaakt worden? Alvast hartelijk dank voor uw antwoord.

09.02.2021 - 18:27

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Giraja,

Met 1 stokje om de l-lus wordt bedoeld jdat je een stokje om de lossenlus haakt, dus je steekt de haaknaald niet in de steek maar om de steek heen, in dit geval om de losse(n) van de vorige toer.

Wat de bies betreft, er is niet een aparte bies in dit patroon, de voorpanden lopen gewoon door tot midden voor en de knopen worden vastgeknoopt in de steken.

21.05.2021 kl. 14:17

country flag Hillevi Rystedt wrote:

För mig verkar det behövas mycket större virknål. 12st och 7 varv med 4,5 virknål blir ca 7cm brett och 8 cm högt. Räcker det att använda en virknål 5.0 eller behövs ännu större?

27.06.2020 - 09:10

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Hillevi. Prøv med heklenål 5,0 og så om du da får den oppgitte heklefastheten. Og husk at nål nr er kun veiledende. Får du for mange masker på 10 cm, bytt til tykkere heklenål. Får du for få masker på 10 cm, bytt til tynnere heklenål. God Fornøyelse!

29.06.2020 kl. 12:02

country flag Hanaa Zahran wrote:

Hi I am Hanaa fm Egypt, I working this beautiful pattern size L, can you help me when Dec 8 sts this part make me confusing where to start decreasing. Thanks for your attention. Hanaa

23.03.2020 - 15:37

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Zahran, you will find how to decrease evenly here. Happy crocheting!

23.03.2020 kl. 16:45

country flag Bonté wrote:

Comment avoir les explications des modèles de gilets et de pulls tricotés en aiguilles simples ? Je ne sais pas tricoter en aiguilles circulaires et, je trouve les explications de vos modèles difficiles à comprendre. C'est dommage car je trouve ces modèles très jolis et bien travaillés.

06.11.2019 - 11:59

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Bonté et merci; vous trouverez ici quelques explications pour adapter un modèle sur aiguilles droites; vous trouverez sous chaque modèle une liste de vidéos relatives au modèle, mais également une FAQ pour vous aider. Bon tricot!

06.11.2019 kl. 12:20

country flag Helle Hansen wrote:

Hej, - er kan I anbefale garnalternativer til denne, vil gerne lave den i blandingsprodukt á la bomuld/uld (50/50), og er I tvivl om hvilken af disse der passer med hæklefastheden. De garn jeg har, kigget ser ud til at have længere løbelængde end denne Nepal, og dermed anden hæklefasthed. Håber I har tid til at hjælpe så jeg kan lave denne lækre sag :-)

06.05.2019 - 14:39

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Helle, Denne opskrift kan også hækles i DROPS Paris. Hvis du hellere vi hækle en jakke i DROPS Cotton Light, så finder du opskrifter som passer til her hæklet - jakker - dame - garngruppe B

07.05.2019 kl. 09:31

country flag Trine M wrote:

Hej. Jeg forstår ikke hvordan jeg afslutter hver omgang med en kædemaske i 3. lm i beg af forrige omg? Hvis jeg laver en km bliver den ikke lige så høj som stm. Skal man lave en stm og afslutte den som en km og hvis ja hvordan gør man det? Eller hvordan gør man? Vh Trine

06.03.2019 - 11:56

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Trine. Du hekler en kjedemaske på vanlig måte, og du hekler den i den 3 luftmasken på starten av forrige rad, altså raden under den du nå hekler. Den vil derfor festes lenger ned enn resten av raden, men dette gjevner seg ut og vil ikke være synlig. God fornøyelse

11.03.2019 kl. 11:14

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